PAINT questions?...anybody..
02-25-06, 11:25 PM
#52
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Dr Delton, I re-finished a couple of '70s cars that I have owned for many years and I used PPG paints; DP40 primers, and deltron base coat/clear coats. I haven't done any auto painting in several years and I was told recently that lead has been eliminated from paints, specifically the DP40 primer. Is the DP40 primer that is now available just about as good as the old? I ruined the clearcoat on one car washing it too often with dish soap so I need to go back and repaint ext of car. Are the paints today compatiable with the older Delton paints I used in the early '90s? Thanks,
02-26-06, 12:08 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by iBarna
And what are good places in San Francisco to get a bike frame powder coated or painted?
If that is too far away, try Ed Litton in Richmond (close to the Richmond/San Rafael Bridge). He does great paint work, and is a prince of a guy. Prices are certainly not the cheapest in the world, but far from the most expensive, too. He also has an amazing number of unbelieveably cool frames and parts hanging up in his shop, some going back many decades. (He probably has more cambio corsa parts and frames than there are in the rest of the US.) You will have to be patient, though - he tends to be pretty backed up.
You can get his contact info off of the Classic Rendezvous website in the USA section (Ed is first and foremost a builder of very clean & classic looking steel frames).
Just to be clear, my recommendation of Ed is from first-hand experience (he resprayed and did some braze-ons for a 1967 Paramount for me) and is absolutely without reservation. I am certain he can make your Bottecchia look fantastic, and he is the kind of guy you feel good about giving yor money to.
02-26-06, 12:23 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by cuda2k
Here's a fun one for you - paint code for the classic 'Marina blue' color often seen on vintage Chevy muscle cars. (Starting a collection of blue paint codes to choose from for future projects. 
)
)Click the auto color library tab and look at 1967 Chevrolet near the bottom of the page.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 06-06-07 at 04:54 PM.
03-03-06, 11:55 AM
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hey Dr. I have sort of an off topic question for you. I have a new surly cc frame I just built up. I am not a decal guy and want to get rid of the obnoxious surly logos all over the bike.
The SURLY logos hace a real thin clearcoat layer over them. If I take a plastic butter knive I can scrape them off.
So if I scrape them lightly off, do I need to repaint or can I clearcoat back over the spot or just leave alone???I don't want to repaint the new frame, so do you have any ideas what to do??
Any advice appreciated, jk
The SURLY logos hace a real thin clearcoat layer over them. If I take a plastic butter knive I can scrape them off.
So if I scrape them lightly off, do I need to repaint or can I clearcoat back over the spot or just leave alone???I don't want to repaint the new frame, so do you have any ideas what to do??
Any advice appreciated, jk
03-03-06, 04:58 PM
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hey thanks Dr. D, BTW great thread....I wil think about going ahead and just repainting...actually all of my bike are black and I need to get one another color, so maybe that might be the ticket and go ahead and repaint, I'll also check out your website..thanks again
03-03-06, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
DON'T DRILL!! as those little bits of steel will end up in your paint! Use a nail or an awl to PUNCH those holes. Another trick to keeping the can clean; I use a 7 oz Dixie cup to scoop some paint from the can. I usually tear the cup along both sides of the seam and across the botton so the resulting "scoop" holds about 1-11/2 oz of paint. Cheap, clean & disposable.
Cheers,
Dr.D
Cheers,
Dr.D
Thanks for pointing that out. Just what I'd need is a nice paint job with a big silver twistie in the middle of it.
03-13-06, 11:21 AM
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I have an old schwinn fair-lady i'm restoring for my gf, i plan to prime and paint with spray cans, then go over the whole thing with a two part urethane clear. what do you think?
the clear i want to use is an industrial coating made by Abatron called ABOTHANE 8901-4
reading the spec sheet, it claims to be good on wood, metal, concrete. they also list automotive and marine as possible uses. The chemical resistance is very high and the hardness they claim is very good as well.
I plan to thin this with the corresponding reducer and spray with a $20 harbor freight Spray gun. The only paint i've sprayed with this gun was Kilz White primer thinned with paint thinner that was used to spray a wood table. That turned out very well.
i dont know how to attach a pdf, the spec sheet can be found here.
https://www.abatron.com/pdfs/abothane_8901-4.pdf
as for why i'm using an industrial coating instead of something from PPG or Dupont? I was thinking of coating my walls in this stuff to make them graffiti proof.
the clear i want to use is an industrial coating made by Abatron called ABOTHANE 8901-4
reading the spec sheet, it claims to be good on wood, metal, concrete. they also list automotive and marine as possible uses. The chemical resistance is very high and the hardness they claim is very good as well.
I plan to thin this with the corresponding reducer and spray with a $20 harbor freight Spray gun. The only paint i've sprayed with this gun was Kilz White primer thinned with paint thinner that was used to spray a wood table. That turned out very well.
i dont know how to attach a pdf, the spec sheet can be found here.
https://www.abatron.com/pdfs/abothane_8901-4.pdf
as for why i'm using an industrial coating instead of something from PPG or Dupont? I was thinking of coating my walls in this stuff to make them graffiti proof.
Last edited by grizybaer; 03-15-06 at 06:33 AM.
03-14-06, 09:29 PM
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I have a Rivendell Romulus that's two years old with a few nicks and scratches that I would like to touch up. I know it was painted with Dupont Imron 5056.
What's the best way to do this?
What's the best way to do this?
03-15-06, 01:58 PM
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Dr. Deltron, your last post triggered old menories. At a mine I worked at in Africa we used different colored types of rattle can paint to mark things and write instructions on the rock underground. One foreman had been checking out a little more paint than the rest of us. Someone finally went inside his Company house and found he had been painting all his walls with stolen spray paint. At least he kept any one wall in a room the same color.
One day I popped open an empty can and showed my bantu work crew that catseye marbles were used as the rattlers to keep the paint mixed. One man got excited and wanted a marble of his own. Before we could stop him he slammed the end of his crowbar into one of my cans of paint. Blooey!! Most of the 2000 men coming off shift that day must have laughed at him all the way to the showers .
One day I popped open an empty can and showed my bantu work crew that catseye marbles were used as the rattlers to keep the paint mixed. One man got excited and wanted a marble of his own. Before we could stop him he slammed the end of his crowbar into one of my cans of paint. Blooey!! Most of the 2000 men coming off shift that day must have laughed at him all the way to the showers
.
03-15-06, 07:30 PM
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Dear Dr,
* How durable is typical hardware store rattle can paints?
* If I get rattle cans in color and clear of the same brand, and give the frame clear layers over the color, what sort of life will I get out of the job?
* If the clear gets scratched and I want to repair it, what would be the best approach - polish or respray with clear?
* How durable is typical hardware store rattle can paints?
* If I get rattle cans in color and clear of the same brand, and give the frame clear layers over the color, what sort of life will I get out of the job?
* If the clear gets scratched and I want to repair it, what would be the best approach - polish or respray with clear?
03-15-06, 08:24 PM
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Dr. Deltron
I bought a used Sharpe detail gun and spent a whole day cleaning it. I bought a rebuild kit, but I didn't use it because I tested the gun and it seems to work fine.
Now I'm looking for materials. Do you have a favorite brand?
I bought a used Sharpe detail gun and spent a whole day cleaning it. I bought a rebuild kit, but I didn't use it because I tested the gun and it seems to work fine.
Now I'm looking for materials. Do you have a favorite brand?
03-16-06, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
A1) Rattle can paint can be pretty durable. The trick is to let it dry thoroughly. Up to 6 months.
Does this mean I can't ride it for 6 months? Or even worse, Do I need to wait 6 months between coats?
03-16-06, 06:46 AM
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Thanks Dr. Deltron!
____________________________
____________________________
Originally Posted by Dr.Deltron
The EASIEST way is to use either clear fingernail polish or a color that hopefully matches your bike color.
As for the BEST way to go; repaint the whole frame! Why? Because you can spend a lot of time & money trying to do touch-up. That's what auto body shops do on cars when they fix a dent. That is, blend the repaired area into the rest of the paintjob. (a nightmare on a bike frame)
In other words, when you go to buy Imron, you will need the following;
COLOR; Minimum amount available is a pint=$25-$50, depending on color. Reds & purples are the most exspensive.
CATALYST; Needed to make the paint harden; about $50 quart (minimum quantity)
CLEAR; Also about $50/qt (usually uses the same catalyst as the color)
REDUCER; makes the paint spray better and flow out evenly. About $15-$20/qt (min. quantity)
OK, now you've dropped a note & a half for materials, do you have the proper equipment to spray it with?
And breathing apparatus? This stuff is dangerous to breathe. Isocyanates are akin to cyanide. You know what that is, right?
So, you have all the necessary equipment. How much paint does it take to paint a bicycle?
About 4-6 ounces of mixed/reduced material per coat. So to get the minimum amounts of the various materials, you end up with enough paint to do about a dozen frames!! If you are only doing touch-up, you have enough material to touch-up about a jillion frames of that color!
Hence, fingernail polish. Otherwise the time & effort is better spent repainting the whole frame. (IMHO)
As a note on touch-up painting; The trick to getting a good finish around the touched up area is to spray some plain reducer along the dusty edge of the touch-up after the final coat of clear. This melts the dusty edge and blends it into the rest of the paint. That's an auto body shop technique.
Hope that was helpful, Dr.D
As for the BEST way to go; repaint the whole frame! Why? Because you can spend a lot of time & money trying to do touch-up. That's what auto body shops do on cars when they fix a dent. That is, blend the repaired area into the rest of the paintjob. (a nightmare on a bike frame)
In other words, when you go to buy Imron, you will need the following;
COLOR; Minimum amount available is a pint=$25-$50, depending on color. Reds & purples are the most exspensive.
CATALYST; Needed to make the paint harden; about $50 quart (minimum quantity)
CLEAR; Also about $50/qt (usually uses the same catalyst as the color)
REDUCER; makes the paint spray better and flow out evenly. About $15-$20/qt (min. quantity)
OK, now you've dropped a note & a half for materials, do you have the proper equipment to spray it with?
And breathing apparatus? This stuff is dangerous to breathe. Isocyanates are akin to cyanide. You know what that is, right?
So, you have all the necessary equipment. How much paint does it take to paint a bicycle?
About 4-6 ounces of mixed/reduced material per coat. So to get the minimum amounts of the various materials, you end up with enough paint to do about a dozen frames!! If you are only doing touch-up, you have enough material to touch-up about a jillion frames of that color!
Hence, fingernail polish. Otherwise the time & effort is better spent repainting the whole frame. (IMHO)
As a note on touch-up painting; The trick to getting a good finish around the touched up area is to spray some plain reducer along the dusty edge of the touch-up after the final coat of clear. This melts the dusty edge and blends it into the rest of the paint. That's an auto body shop technique.
Hope that was helpful, Dr.D
03-16-06, 05:49 PM
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Thanks, I'm all set now except for 1 more Q:
I plan to give the (steel) lugs a mirror polish; will it be OK to clear coat over that with rattle can paint, ie will it stick? As for the rest, do I need to prime?
I plan to give the (steel) lugs a mirror polish; will it be OK to clear coat over that with rattle can paint, ie will it stick? As for the rest, do I need to prime?