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If you ever have a cable or shifter problem, and can deal with losing shifting on that side of the drivetrain, just set the limit stops on the Deraileur to keep the chain in one fixed location.
I had to do this once when an STI front lever broke. That got me home, upon which I removed the FD and cables. until I was able to fix the problem. |
Originally Posted by CRUM
~Don't alter your route after telling your wife where you are headed and then call her for help from East Gish wherever 60 miles from home and you are supposed to going out that night. Better yet, just circle around the driveway that day so she can keep an eye on you.
:lol: |
This would be a good sticky if the content is good enough.
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keep the chain clean lubed and wipe it down after rides
add lube to inside of chain when rollers look shiny dont let the bike drip dry use baby powder on inside of tires when installing new tube keep a plastic bag tucked under the saddle btw the rails wipe rims down with simple green and then xfine sandpaper or scotchbrite pads |
* dremmel tool w/cut off wheel for cable housing cuts: fast, smooth, put in expendable cable to keep inner liner from collapsing. Plus 100s of other uses!
* plastic bags (grocery, food storage): cheap wind block - put over socks (leave back exposed for some ventilation and put shoe on. Use it between do rag and helmet. * H/L limit screws: check on new bike, may get away with chain not falling off for a while. * make sure tools/parts carried on a ride are serviceable: air pump seals (just helped a guy who tried 3-4 others first. Mine worked fine so the others must have been broken). Periodically check patch kits, tubes (esp holes from rubbing with other tools), missing stuff (remember to replenish stuff you use). * especially for road tires: after ride, pull bits of rock/glass out, wash or wipe tire, glue cuts. * tire boot: a piece of express mail envelope, that stuff is tough. * replacing tire w/o tire irons: push/pinch tire so bead seats into deep middle section of the rim and work around in both directions at the same time, pulling away from start point so your hand should converge on a loose section that can be removed without irons. Depends on tire, rim, how many times tire was mounted/unmounted. Probably a good idea to carry one or perhaps two irons anyway. * KoolStop black Ultegra/DuraAce replacement pads: much better than Shimano - better modulation and power, wet weather braking, and seems to pick up less junk to scratch the rims. * finger nail polish dot on chain (w/o powerlink): know when to stop lubing the chain. * Shimano replacement chain rivet: For the portion of the chain on top, running from the cassette to the cranks, it should be in the right side of an outer link or toward the chainrings. This is supposedly stronger and should shift better. * if you wear lycra shorts: after using an energy gel, tuck ripped off tab and folded packet under the cuff. It stays put, doesn't interfere w/riding and keeps jersey pockets full of other stuff from getting sticky. * if you need to brake hard, stand up and then sink down (legs and body) while braking. The additional dynamic force downward will increase tire traction over just your body weight alone. Works for cornering to (think dynamic loading/unloading when skiing). Dave |
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