Which of these would you pick?
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Which of these would you pick?
I have a mountain bike that I am very pleased with, and most of my riding will be done on trails with that. However, I want to sometimes ride a bike on the road, or more likely, on the cinder paved rails-to-trails near my house. It also might be used as a campus cruiser. My goals are to spend as little money as possible, and to maximize fun and ease of pedaling. I'm not really concerned with going extremely fast, but I wanna get moving. Anyhow, here are my choices for a base, let me know which you'd pick, what you would mix and match, or if you would just search the flea markets and classifieds instead. All of these bikes will be given a new chain and possibly a whole new drivetrain, and new, slick, skinny tires. Judging only from lifting and guessing, I'd say all are about the same weight.
Bike #1 Murray MTN Shadow
This was my bike before I bought my iron horse. It shifts ok, needs a new front wheel, new grips, possibly new drivetrain. This bike is also the cleanest.
Bike #2 Murray Extreme
This bike was left outside, the drivetrain and shifters are basically junk. If I used this bike it would most likely be for the frame only.
Bike #3 Dynasty Free Spirit
This frame is probably the best choice, as much as I don't like the way it looks. I would probably replace the wheels and tires. The chain would be replaced, but the gears could probably stay. A bonus for this one, I also have the feminine version of this bike as well, so some parts might swap out.
Bike #1 Murray MTN Shadow
This was my bike before I bought my iron horse. It shifts ok, needs a new front wheel, new grips, possibly new drivetrain. This bike is also the cleanest.
Bike #2 Murray Extreme
This bike was left outside, the drivetrain and shifters are basically junk. If I used this bike it would most likely be for the frame only.
Bike #3 Dynasty Free Spirit
This frame is probably the best choice, as much as I don't like the way it looks. I would probably replace the wheels and tires. The chain would be replaced, but the gears could probably stay. A bonus for this one, I also have the feminine version of this bike as well, so some parts might swap out.
Last edited by JTred; 03-24-09 at 08:52 PM.
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Save yourself the time and trouble and buy new quality stuff.
if you have time and can do repairs though, the cheapest one to make would be the first one. it looks like it has solid 1 piece cranks, solid axles, and a strong heavy frame. wich means that you can do almost every repair with common tools.
throw away the shifters and deraileurs, and run it a single speed (try to get a straight chainline). disassemble, clean, and re-grease everything (including the spoke nipples). unless the front rim is broken it looks like it would just need to be trued. Make sure the spokes on the rear wheel are also tight. They tend to come out a bit loose off of the store (1/2 turn on each is usually enough).
Parts you would need: Brake pads, Brake cables with housing, chain (you NEED a chain), and tires it looks like 26x1.5 smooth thread would get you the speed you would like, with the most comfort and protection. And it looks like that would fit that rim width too. you can get all these for around $30-$40 if you buy generic no name brand. go to a swapmeet or similar, you might get them cheaper.
tools you should get. A freewheel remover to remove the freewheel (not completely necessary but it would save you ALOT OF HASSLE around $5)
a spoke wrench to true the front rim. get a $3-$5 dollar one
a chain breaker to remove, install and adjust your chain (again not necessary but it would save you bundles of Hassle. around $5)
Oh and those pedals are gonna break eventually, but wait till that happens, and wears those out..
$55 would get you an ugly, but decent ride.
GOOD LUCK!
if you have time and can do repairs though, the cheapest one to make would be the first one. it looks like it has solid 1 piece cranks, solid axles, and a strong heavy frame. wich means that you can do almost every repair with common tools.
throw away the shifters and deraileurs, and run it a single speed (try to get a straight chainline). disassemble, clean, and re-grease everything (including the spoke nipples). unless the front rim is broken it looks like it would just need to be trued. Make sure the spokes on the rear wheel are also tight. They tend to come out a bit loose off of the store (1/2 turn on each is usually enough).
Parts you would need: Brake pads, Brake cables with housing, chain (you NEED a chain), and tires it looks like 26x1.5 smooth thread would get you the speed you would like, with the most comfort and protection. And it looks like that would fit that rim width too. you can get all these for around $30-$40 if you buy generic no name brand. go to a swapmeet or similar, you might get them cheaper.
tools you should get. A freewheel remover to remove the freewheel (not completely necessary but it would save you ALOT OF HASSLE around $5)
a spoke wrench to true the front rim. get a $3-$5 dollar one
a chain breaker to remove, install and adjust your chain (again not necessary but it would save you bundles of Hassle. around $5)
Oh and those pedals are gonna break eventually, but wait till that happens, and wears those out..
$55 would get you an ugly, but decent ride.
GOOD LUCK!
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Tires will cost more than these bikes are worth.
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Don't make fun, but the first bike actually came from a garbage pile. It worked perfectly except that the front tube was flat and the rear brake needed adjusted. I have no idea where the other two came from. So yeah, you are absolutely correct.
EatMyA**, thanks for all the suggestions. The front rim actually has two broken spokes, so that will probably need to be replaced outright. I'm also starting to think that single speed is the way to go, but what gearing should I use and how do I go about getting a straight chainline?
Since money will be tight, I'm thinking of this order for replacements:
Tires and rim
chain and gears
brake pads and cables
grips and possibly seat
pedals (or when they break)
Does that sound logical or have I missed something important?
EatMyA**, thanks for all the suggestions. The front rim actually has two broken spokes, so that will probably need to be replaced outright. I'm also starting to think that single speed is the way to go, but what gearing should I use and how do I go about getting a straight chainline?
Since money will be tight, I'm thinking of this order for replacements:
Tires and rim
chain and gears
brake pads and cables
grips and possibly seat
pedals (or when they break)
Does that sound logical or have I missed something important?
#7
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Back when I first started riding, about 30 years ago, I bought an old Huffy from a police auction. I was so naive, I thought Huffy was a good brand at the time. That bike almost ended my cycling career before it started, it was so bad. Fortunately, I put the money out for a new Centurion, and within 18 monthes I was riding double centuries.
I agree with everyone else. Don't bother with a Murray or a Free Spirit. Their cheap frames will soak up all your pedalling energy. Save your bucks, go to a bike shop, and buy a quality bike. You'll be much happier in the long run.
I agree with everyone else. Don't bother with a Murray or a Free Spirit. Their cheap frames will soak up all your pedalling energy. Save your bucks, go to a bike shop, and buy a quality bike. You'll be much happier in the long run.
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#9
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Can you say....trash can.
Better yet, take them to the recycle center and you may get a few bucks for the melt down material.
Better yet, take them to the recycle center and you may get a few bucks for the melt down material.
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The Free Spirit is worthy of further investigation. Some were made by Puch when they opened operations in Japan. These were very good, cheap bikes.
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Further investigation ?
Look at the pictures, it needs new wheels, tyres tubes, drivetrain - even the headset looks spannered - and it wasn't a good bike to start with.
The centrepull brakes and some alloy components partly redeem it, but it will cost more to restore than a better quality s/h bike....
There's a very useful saying "You can't polish a turd"
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I've seen plenty of puch cycles, not all were cheap and I haven't seen any good ones.
Further investigation ?
Look at the pictures, it needs new wheels, tyres tubes, drivetrain - even the headset looks spannered - and it wasn't a good bike to start with.
The centrepull brakes and some alloy components partly redeem it, but it will cost more to restore than a better quality s/h bike....
There's a very useful saying "You can't polish a turd"
Further investigation ?
Look at the pictures, it needs new wheels, tyres tubes, drivetrain - even the headset looks spannered - and it wasn't a good bike to start with.
The centrepull brakes and some alloy components partly redeem it, but it will cost more to restore than a better quality s/h bike....
There's a very useful saying "You can't polish a turd"
I assure you they are out there - and as fine machines as a Cinelli or Masi.
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Just for the fun of it I refurbished a free spirit. It was an older one, but in about the same condition. After getting everything working and putting a few used parts on it, I rode it down the block and back, then pulled the tires/tubes off and stuck the rest of it in the parts bike pile. They're just not a good bike. I only gave $1 for it, and it had a new condition seat cover that was $15 new, so I came out ok.
BTW, free spirit was a Sears bike, or at least mine was.
BTW, free spirit was a Sears bike, or at least mine was.
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But no, they aren't fine bikes I'm afraid.
Sorry to break this to you, but they are just gaspipe with glossy paint on.
EDIT: FWIW - I actually had that same bike
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Reynold's 531 DB throughout frame & fork gaspipe? I AM impressed!
As for having the same bike - that frame was bought by Sheldon Brown through Harris Cyclery. He got it for me specifically, knowing I was searching for something special. Once it arrived from Graz, Austria - I set to work building that bicycle. The chances of your having the same bike are infinitesimal.
As for having the same bike - that frame was bought by Sheldon Brown through Harris Cyclery. He got it for me specifically, knowing I was searching for something special. Once it arrived from Graz, Austria - I set to work building that bicycle. The chances of your having the same bike are infinitesimal.
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pretty much unanimous: I'm not one of those people who automatically knocks cheap bikes. They're all some riders need. But those are both junk. You can find dozens of similar bikes in thrift shops around here for $25 or less.
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Sell what you have on C-list. Buy something decent on C-list. Rigid mountain bikes are the best bargain in used bikes. Bought a Bridgestone MB-6 for $30 that the previous owner had upgraded nicely with a few XT bits & Nashbar rims front & rear.. Needed about $50 in parts including tires.
I am about to clean up a $20.00 MTB. It's definitely a low-end but usable bike. Decent for around town & dirt trails.
My favorite bike is my $25.00 Schwinn Mirada. Heavy but great all-arounder. Uses 650b rims, so tires were ordered online.
I am about to clean up a $20.00 MTB. It's definitely a low-end but usable bike. Decent for around town & dirt trails.
My favorite bike is my $25.00 Schwinn Mirada. Heavy but great all-arounder. Uses 650b rims, so tires were ordered online.
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Don't make fun, but the first bike actually came from a garbage pile. It worked perfectly except that the front tube was flat and the rear brake needed adjusted. I have no idea where the other two came from. So yeah, you are absolutely correct.
EatMyA**, thanks for all the suggestions. The front rim actually has two broken spokes, so that will probably need to be replaced outright. I'm also starting to think that single speed is the way to go, but what gearing should I use and how do I go about getting a straight chainline?
Since money will be tight, I'm thinking of this order for replacements:
Tires and rim
chain and gears
brake pads and cables
grips and possibly seat
pedals (or when they break)
Does that sound logical or have I missed something important?
EatMyA**, thanks for all the suggestions. The front rim actually has two broken spokes, so that will probably need to be replaced outright. I'm also starting to think that single speed is the way to go, but what gearing should I use and how do I go about getting a straight chainline?
Since money will be tight, I'm thinking of this order for replacements:
Tires and rim
chain and gears
brake pads and cables
grips and possibly seat
pedals (or when they break)
Does that sound logical or have I missed something important?
if there is two broken spokes get them from the blue murray. take them off with the spoke wrench, make sure they are not all twisted (it they are get another one) and put them on the new wheel.
then you have to true. Search on sheldon browns' site, or park tools site. you dont need a stand,or tools, other than the spoke wrench. You can use the bike frame and your fingers or whatever. other than that the process is the same. This will teach you much about wheels. A BIG PLUS. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html Also check youtube or bicycle mechanic videos to get a visual of this.
Getting a chainline and gearing is very easy for you. Dont move anything or chang anything. if you use the small chainwheel pick the cog in the back that aligns (makes a straight line) the chain best. If you use the big chainwheel use the cog that aligns the chain best. You can ride both, then pick the one you like best. You will aslo learn about replacing chains and loosening "stiff links". Again Sheldon browns's site will tell you much better than I can about chainline alignment.
The only reason why I dont just dismiss you like the rest is because this IS NOT A WASTE OF TIME. The things you will learn on this bike alone are worth every penny.
the tools can used on ANY bike. They are not just for this one. if later on you get a new one:
tires can be put on another bike too.
brake pads can be put on another bike as well.
cables can be transferred to another bike too.
a seat can be transferred to another bike too.(if you get one)
grips can be transferred
Chain can be transferred (but I advise against it, but thats just me)
These are consumables that eventually you will have to buy on any bike too (exept for the seat probably)
What is more important when you are done with this bike, you will have a much, MUCH, better idea of what you need and want for when you do drop the money on a new rig, and how to do maintenance/repairs on your own . That alone will save you enough money in LBS bills to buy a new bike.
Last edited by EatMyA**; 03-23-09 at 11:57 PM.
#20
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D.
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the drivetrain will look like kinda this https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...ostcount=10467
#23
Pwnerer
You sound like you're going to do this then. You dont need gears, use the freewheel in the back, it works fine (put as little money as possible). You don't need a rim.
if there is two broken spokes get them from the blue murray. take them off with the spoke wrench, make sure they are not all twisted (it they are get another one) and put them on the new wheel.
then you have to true. Search on sheldon browns' site, or park tools site. you dont need a stand,or tools, other than the spoke wrench. You can use the bike frame and your fingers or whatever. other than that the process is the same. This will teach you much about wheels. A BIG PLUS. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html Also check youtube or bicycle mechanic videos to get a visual of this.
Getting a chainline and gearing is very easy for you. Dont move anything or chang anything. if you use the small chainwheel pick the cog in the back that aligns (makes a straight line) the chain best. If you use the big chainwheel use the cog that aligns the chain best. You can ride both, then pick the one you like best. You will aslo learn about replacing chains and loosening "stiff links". Again Sheldon browns's site will tell you much better than I can about chainline alignment.
The only reason why I dont just dismiss you like the rest is because this IS NOT A WASTE OF TIME. The things you will learn on this bike alone are worth every penny.
the tools can used on ANY bike. They are not just for this one. if later on you get a new one:
tires can be put on another bike too.
brake pads can be put on another bike as well.
cables can be transferred to another bike too.
a seat can be transferred to another bike too.(if you get one)
grips can be transferred
Chain can be transferred (but I advise against it, but thats just me)
These are consumables that eventually you will have to buy on any bike too (exept for the seat probably)
What is more important when you are done with this bike, you will have a much, MUCH, better idea of what you need and want for when you do drop the money on a new rig, and how to do maintenance/repairs on your own . That alone will save you enough money in LBS bills to buy a new bike.
if there is two broken spokes get them from the blue murray. take them off with the spoke wrench, make sure they are not all twisted (it they are get another one) and put them on the new wheel.
then you have to true. Search on sheldon browns' site, or park tools site. you dont need a stand,or tools, other than the spoke wrench. You can use the bike frame and your fingers or whatever. other than that the process is the same. This will teach you much about wheels. A BIG PLUS. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html Also check youtube or bicycle mechanic videos to get a visual of this.
Getting a chainline and gearing is very easy for you. Dont move anything or chang anything. if you use the small chainwheel pick the cog in the back that aligns (makes a straight line) the chain best. If you use the big chainwheel use the cog that aligns the chain best. You can ride both, then pick the one you like best. You will aslo learn about replacing chains and loosening "stiff links". Again Sheldon browns's site will tell you much better than I can about chainline alignment.
The only reason why I dont just dismiss you like the rest is because this IS NOT A WASTE OF TIME. The things you will learn on this bike alone are worth every penny.
the tools can used on ANY bike. They are not just for this one. if later on you get a new one:
tires can be put on another bike too.
brake pads can be put on another bike as well.
cables can be transferred to another bike too.
a seat can be transferred to another bike too.(if you get one)
grips can be transferred
Chain can be transferred (but I advise against it, but thats just me)
These are consumables that eventually you will have to buy on any bike too (exept for the seat probably)
What is more important when you are done with this bike, you will have a much, MUCH, better idea of what you need and want for when you do drop the money on a new rig, and how to do maintenance/repairs on your own . That alone will save you enough money in LBS bills to buy a new bike.
I'd cannibalize the two MTBs and sell the roadie. With the proceeds you can buy whatever bits and pieces needed to get one bike running, then save the rest for spare parts.
When dealing with bikes of this quality level, it can be a fun game to not invest one thin dime, yet get as much function out of them as possible. The plusses are they are far less likely to be targeted by thieves than a nice bike, and if it does happen to be stolen or wrecked...you're out nothing.
Out of the three, I'd choose the blue Murray to get running simply for safety's sake. It's the only one that has frame-mounted brake bosses.
#25
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The Free Spirit is definitely Sears. From what it looks, the blue Free Spirit can be salvagable as a beater bike for college campuses. I'd focus less on how much it costs compared to buying another bike, because learning how to fix it, the parts can be considered "tuition" for this knowledge.
The black Murray is one step up from scrap metal, but if you are trying to get the basics of wrenching, it can't hurt.
The blue Murray's frame, I'd give it a close examination for rust. I don't think it is an aluminum frame, but if the components are that rusted, there may be rust with the frame.
The black Murray is one step up from scrap metal, but if you are trying to get the basics of wrenching, it can't hurt.
The blue Murray's frame, I'd give it a close examination for rust. I don't think it is an aluminum frame, but if the components are that rusted, there may be rust with the frame.