Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Converting Cross bike into Road

General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Converting Cross bike into Road

Old 07-26-09, 06:35 AM
speedy gonzales
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Converting Cross bike into Road

I have this bike (Author Compact):

It's specifications are:

Size: 22"
Frame: hi-ten 700C
Front Fork: hi-ten
Head Parts: VP Comp. 1"
Chainwheel: PROWHEEL 48-38-28 170 mm cranks
B. B. Parts: VP Comp.
Front Derailleur : SHIMANO C050 (28.6)
Rear Derailleur : SHIMANO TX-31
Shifters: SHIMANO Revoshift (21)
Freewheel: SHIMANO MF-TZ-21 14-28
Chain: SHIMANO UG-51
Hubs: QUANDO 36 holes
Brakes: TEKTRO 45AL
Brake Levers : TEKTRO plastic / alloy
Front Rim : alloy 36 holes
Rear Rim: alloy 36 holes
Spokes: steel
Front Tire: AUTHOR AT-1338 700 x 38c
Rear Tire: AUTHOR AT-1338 700 x 38c
Handlebar: KALIN steel 20 mm riser
Stem: KALIN steel
Seat Post: KALIN steel (25.4)
Seat Bolt: alloy QR
Speed: 21
Weight: 13.35 / 20"

What improvements can I make(without spending thousands $$$), to convert it into reliable ("enthusiast" - but not proffesional!!) road bike?
Which parts need to be changed as soon as possible, and which can wait?
Also, please suggest parts you'd buy in my place?

speedy gonzales is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 06:51 AM
Life is good
RonH's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Posts: 18,213

Bikes: 2001 Litespeed Tuscany, 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The cheapest and easiest thing you can do is replace the tires. 700x25 or maybe 700x23 if they'll fit the rims?
The LORD is merciful and gracious, slow to anger, and plenteous in mercy. - Psalm 103:8

I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
RonH is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 06:52 AM
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
Retro Grouch's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 29,253

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1142 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 16 Posts
Most component upgrades don't make economic sense. Bike companies can buy components more cheaply than you can so it's generally cost-effective to sell off what you have and buy what you really want.

That said. The biggest bang-for-buck improvement that you can make is to improve your position on the bike. Lowering your torso will generally allow you ro ride one gear faster than you are now. Unfortunately, that's a change that can add up the cost pretty quickly. The biggest cost in converting to dropped bars is buying combination brake/shifter levers. There's ways around that.

Another upgrade, if you think you're going to like bicycling for a long time, is an upgraded wheelset. A better wheelset will improve your performance a little, can sometimes be a visual upgrade, and is something you can take with you when you buy your next bike.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 09:54 AM
scattered73's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bayou City
Posts: 1,051

Bikes: Soma Double Cross, KHS Urban Uno

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Instead of shifter/brake combo you could get barcons and drops road brake levers with mtb pull and new stem and have a touring/cyclocross bike. I had a shop price out my sisters hybrid I think it was around 150 or so if I remeber right.
scattered73 is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 10:09 AM
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Posts: 3,981

Bikes: Specialized Roubaix Comp, Soma ES

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
For the money that you'd spend trying to make this into a road bike, you could simply sell this one and apply the difference and buy a road bike. Either look for used or a year or two old one at your local shop that you can make a deal for.
Demented internet tail wagging imbicile.
knobster is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 11:33 AM
Older than dirt
CCrew's Avatar
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,342

Bikes: Too darn many.. latest count is 11

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Oh, and based on the title, I hate to break it to you, but that's not a cross bike. It's just a low end hybrid.
CCrew is offline  
Old 07-26-09, 12:13 PM
Velo Dog
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 3,811
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by RonH View Post
The cheapest and easiest thing you can do is replace the tires. 700x25 or maybe 700x23 if they'll fit the rims?
I've actually done this a couple of times--I got back into cycling in the '80s with a mountain bike after a 10-year post-college layoff, then "roadified" that bike and another so I could do road rides until I could afford a roadie. I even did a couple of centuries on a mid-'80s, 30-pound Mongoose mountain bike with 1.5-inch road tires.
Tires are by far the best bang for the buck. I wouldn't go to 23s unless you're a lightweight (under 150), but 25s or 28s will fit, and you can run them at 95-105psi. You'll notice an immediate difference. you may need new tubes to go with them, but that's a minor expense.
It doesn't make sense to start swapping things like shifters, and your gearing is very close to what I use on my Atlantis and Rambouillet (46-36-26 triples with 13-28 cassettes). That's perfectly adequate for the road for most riders. Don't even think about changing the gearing unless you're consistently spinning out (pedaling as fast as your legs will move) in your highest gear--if you have high gears you don't use now, there's no point in changing to even higher ones.
Position is important, as another post mentioned, but maybe not supremely important at the speeds most of us ride. If you cruise at 20mph, you might pick up to 21 or 22 by getting into a classic roadie position, but you'll sacrifice comfort and visibility, and you'll have to buy new bars, shifters and probably a stem. If you cruise at 14 now, the swap would maybe bring you to 14.5 or something. Only you can decide if it's worth the money, time and inconvenience. A lower, longer stem ($15-$40 if you shop around) would lower the existing bars and move them farther away at much less cost, if that's what you need, but don't go too far at once. You won't need new shifters or anything else if you do that.
A lightweight wheelset would be nice, but you're probably talking $300 or more to upgrade a fairly low-end ride. I'd swap the tires, maybe the stem, and ride it like that until I figured out what I really needed. Keep the old parts, and when you decide to buy a real road bike, you can convert this one back as a commuter, beater or loaner.
Velo Dog is offline  
Old 07-27-09, 03:13 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 6,313
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 432 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Yeah, you could put skinnier tires on there, but it's going to hurt your ride quality. I would never go below 28c on an upright handlebar bike - you get very marginal (if at all) speed improvements below that point but at a large decrease in ride quality. Even so, a bike that comes with 38c tires is likely to still be a crappy ride at smaller tires sizes.

Frankly, at least one other commenter is right - if you wanted a road bike you should sell this one and go out and buy a road bike. A decent entry level road bike costs around $800 retail, but if you can find one on craigslist or ebay or a local used bike sale it can be half that. Heck, there are local shops around me that sell old (70's and 80's) road bikes they've fixed up for $100-$300 that would make a better road bike than this one - I don't even *recognize* the front or rear derailler names, they're that low end.
PaulRivers is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.