NuVinci
 

I had read a lot about the NuVinci drive, and a few months ago when the rear wheel of my Trek disintegrated (long story), I decided to convert it.

I had no idea what I was getting into; I thought that it would be a simple matter. My LBS promised to research it.

After a couple of months, my LBS owner has just e-mailed me to the effect that the bike will be ready next week. Stand by for a report.

I was luckier. My LBS had a 26" NuVinci wheel in stock, the original version. It had been sitting long enough with no takers that the owner offered it to me at shop cost.:thumb:

I picked up a 1990 Trek 950 for $60 at the local Goodwill. I researched things and had the LBS order the NuVinci Vertical Dropout kit and their chain tensioner as thhose were both needed for the Trek's vertical dropouts. Took the shop about 2 weeks to get the items from Falbrook or a distributor. I still got off dirt cheap on the whole bike and wheel combo.:D

If doing it again I would look for a frame with horizontal or semi horizontal dropouts as they simplify the conversion considerably and make rear wheel removal and installation a lot easier IMO.

An interesting bike but the SRAM iM9 gives almost the identical gear range and is a lot lighter. I have a Swobo Dixon with the SRAM hub.

My Big Dummy has a Rolhoff; my Greenspeed Recumbent has a Shimano eight-speed IHG with a Schlumpf. When the Trek comes back the only derailleur I'll have is the Montague Paratrooper, which I'm thinking of converting to some sort of IHG. What I'm not sure yet.

My non IGH bikes are a 83 Colnago with Super Record and a Univega Via De Oro Hybrid. The IGH collection is as follows:

Civia Hyland Rohloff
Swobo Dixon (SRAM iM9)
Steelwool Tweed with Alfine hub & drop bars
Trek 950 Nuvinci conversion
Duracycle track style frame with SRAM P5 & drop bars
Kona Humuhumu-Nukunuku-A-Puaa cruiser with Sachs Torpedo 3 speed.

In the process of converting the Kona to a NOS Sturmey Archer S5-2 Alloy 5 speed hub and I also have both FG and 3 speed Sachs Torpedo wheels for the Duracycle.

I just came back from the shop. Even pulling the trailer with my folded Montague, it was a nice, smooth ride. I also had him install a chainguard, so I'll be able to ride in long trousers now.

The continuous variation, rather than numerical stage shifting, will take some getting used to. I thought that the weight would make it sluggish, but not so.

Oooh we are listing our IGH's?:thumb::p

Raleigh Twenty Sturmey AG
Raleigh Twenty Sturmey AW (soon to be SRC3 or AWC II)
Raleigh Superbe Sturmey AW
Raleigh Colt Sturmey TCS III
Raleigh Sports Sturmey AW
Raleigh Compact RSW Sturmey AW
Dawes Clubman Sturmey FG converted to 5speed:D
Redline R530 Nexus 7

Let us know how the Nuvinci holds up, I have been considering getting a Yuba Mundo and doing a Nuvinci on it.

Aaron:)

The main drawback of a NuVinci is that removing the rear wheel to replace or fix a flat is a major undertaking.

Its not worse than any other IGH. When you ride the bike, the weight of the NuVinci is barely noticeable.

That's true; I commuted today on the NuVinci-ized Trek, and it was so smooth. I love it.

If you mean removing the rear wheel I tend to disagree. The Rohloff hub with QR is a toolless removal. All my other IGHs require one 15mm open end or box wrench.

The Nuvinci if installed in a bike frame with vertical dropouts requires the 15mm wrench, a 22mm wrench and a hex key. The VDO adapter kit uses a anti rotation plate on the drive side that also bolts to the derailleur mount, under the chain tensioner. This requires removal of the tensioner to remove the wheel.

This is the reason I recommend use of the Nuvinci hub primarily on bikes with horizontal dropouts. The Nuvinci chain tensioner and VDO kit make wheel removal a PITA out on the road.

I agree with you its best suited for bikes that have a horizontal dropout. Using tires with flat protection help against having to remove it on the road at all.

ain't no such thing as a flat-proof clincher. But for many flats you don't even have to take the wheel off...you can just patch in place - the key factor is whether you can do that faster and with less mess than just taking off the wheel and replacing the tube.

Perhaps you can; I can't.

Why do you hate glue? :D

Seriously, what prevents you from being able to patch in place?

I've never been able to get the hang of it.

Ah, I assume you mean patching in general. I've been doing it since I was just a little chipcom and these days get laughed at because I still not only use glue, but keep a lighter in my pack so I can light the glue to 'vulcanize' it to the patch....which is probably not necessary, but old habits die hard.

The nice thing about old tubes tho...you can practice patching to your heart's content. ;)

No, not the patching part. That I can do. How to get the tube out with the wheel still attached without mangling it, and how to get it back in even if I did.

Tire levers and your fingers. ;)

I never said it was easy...which is why sometimes it's faster to just take off the darn wheel anyway.

Sometimes its hard to find the hole in the tube without submerging it in water, especially if it is windy and you can't hear the leaking air from the tube.

Yup, which is why I said 'some' cases. Finding the leak too easily can also be a problem...cuz the hole is actually a rip the size of Iowa.

The frame and the fenders and the rear rack can also get in the way.

Please don't hate me for replying to an older thread?

My NuVinci requires the 15mm and a 21mm wrench. The manual says to also use an 11mm wrench, but I find it unnecessary as finger tight (for that part) works well. What is the hex key for? Did the older models have a different configuration with the axle hardware? Just curious.

I got my NuVinci to slap on my Surly 1x1 frame, but found out that the welded "hood" on the fork ends makes fitting the 21mm wrench impossible - and you can't use a socket, because of the large flange on that drive side hardware assembly. Technically, I could probably make it work, by micro-turning that 21mm nut, but it's really not practical. I guess I could also grind off the "hood" on that side, but I think I'll pass.

Here's a picture of that "hood" or "lip" or whatever it's called on the Surly Track Ends. It makes the NuVinci virtually incompatible because of that huge nut on the drive side.

http://surlybikes.com/uploads/parts/FS2000.jpg

Dan;

The hex key is for loosening/removing the chain tensioner which is part of the VDO kit for bikes with vertical dropouts. The bolt which mounts it to the derailleur hanger has a socket head which uses a hex wrench. What is the 11mm wrench that you mention used for?

The new NuVinci N360 would be more compatible with your Surly as it uses a standard SS/FG/IGH 15mm wrench size nut on both sides.

There's an 11mm "embossed" part of that 21mm "assembly" - it's a little hard to explain, so I'll just quote the technical manual, "Keeping the main shaft nut tight against the shift rod retainer nut, screw the shift rod retainer nut onthe the drive side axle and tighten with an 11mm socket and torque wrench to 20Nm (15 ft. lbs.)"

Yeah, I found out about the new NuVinci just moments after I pulled the trigger on this older model. I'm not really in any position to buy another one, after just shelling out massive Benjamins on this Internally Geared Brick. :( I guess I could sell this, and take a loss - then try that newer version, but that seems like a lot of hoops to jump through.

Here's the excerpt from their manual in .jpg form for your viewing pleasure: (Step 5 - "d" shows the 11mm part)

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...capture-56.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...capture-57.jpg