Hello all. I'm looking to get a relatively inexpensive custom bike. I will have the work done, after bike repair & sales slow down (I'm in New England, so that should be sometime in November.) I'll ask the owners of three bicycle shops in the area to submit a proposal, itemizing the parts and cost of each; then I'll decide which shop will build the bike. In the meantime, I'd like to get some ideas and advice from people on this forum. Firstly, I need to make a choice for a frame. The LBS in the area offer Surly and Soma. Btw, I want to keep the price around $800.
I'm looking for: 1. 'bang for buck' in a smooth riding functional bike, w/ 700c wheels, that can carry my size and weight (6'2" 250 lbs) plus, occassionally, up to 30 lbs of additional weight. By "utility", I mean that it will be used to commute, to carry groceries, and to travel distances of up to 37 miles. I ride on paved roads (only!) much of which is level, but, there are some hills... nothing real steep. (Well, one of them is, but I avoid it :o) The tires could be as wide as 700x 35, so the frame should be able to accommodate that. 2. I want "upright riding." I've don't like road bikes w/ drop handlebars; I've never been able to ride them comfortably. So, "No thanks"! -- bar ends (and the like) are fine, as my hands do get plenty numb on longer rides. I average 7 -17 miles per day. Occasionally, I do longer rides (up to 40 miles), but rarely. 4. I do not want an aluminum frame, as I don't like "the ride" on longer distances. I own a aluminum framed Fuji and just sold my Specialized Expedition (also an aluminum frame), so I speak from personal experience when I say "no" to aluminum. 5. I don't want any suspension, preferring to keep the bike as light as possible. 6. I'd like to NOT have Sora components, but I don't know if that will be possible given my dollar limit. My first choice is to decide on a frame.. Soma and Surly is what is available at the LBS's around here... I'll look around though, maybe there are some other possibilities. I'm definitely looking for a modicum of comfort for the longer rides, so perhaps a roadbike frame would be better than a cross-check frame... I'm don't know, at this point in time. More info: I'll probably use a Brooks B-67 saddle (with the springs at the back.) Handlebars should be at least as high as the seat (but I don't like the big heavy "adjustables" as seen on the so called "comfort bikes". Another thing I'd like to know more about is the differences in steel (4130 cro-molly vs. 853 Reynolds vs. 520 Reynolds chromoly vs. 631 air hardened steel etc. I haven't been successful at learning the distinctions by doing a Google search. The sites mention them but don't explaining what's better and why. If you prefer to point me to a URL, that would be fine. Right now all I really need to focus on is the frame and fork, but feel free to comment on any part of what I have written here. I hope to see some feedback. Thanks Johern |
"Inexpensive" and "Custom" are generally not used together to describe a single item. If you are buying parts individually for an entire bike, you are likely to pay a hefty sum. Perhaps it would be better to choose a bike that comes real close to what you want and arrange with a bike shop to swap out those components you don't want. You are likely to get far more bike for you money.
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I say check out the Prarie Breaker in the "Greatest bike name EVER " thread !
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Not to rain on your parade but I'm 110% sure that you'll get
more bang for the buck "customizing" a quality USED bike that has a LUGGED steel frame. I followed this path with my Bridgestone RB-1 bought used. I changed the bars and stem to get my hands MUCH higher,I changed the tires , added fenders,mirrors,a rear rack and front & rear bags& trunk. I changed the rear derailleur and replaced brakes and chains. How much did all this cost??? The bike cost $75 on e-bay and all the other stuff (except the derailleur and chain) I did myself for total cost of $250. Could I have bought a new bike for $325? Sure I could BUT it wouldn't have been anywhere near the quality of the old Bridgestone nor ride anywhere close to a quality lugged steel framed bike. And it wouldn't have cost anywhere near $800 either!!!! |
Originally Posted by supcom
"Inexpensive" and "Custom" are generally not used together to describe a single item. If you are buying parts individually for an entire bike, you are likely to pay a hefty sum. Perhaps it would be better to choose a bike that comes real close to what you want and arrange with a bike shop to swap out those components you don't want. You are likely to get far more bike for you money.
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Hello Tighwad. I have considered customizing a quality USED bike. In fact there is a used bike shop just a few blocks away from where I live and I've been looking at those bikes for nearly two years. The owners are careful to buy pretty decent bikes... (translation: no Wal Mart junk allowed). The problem is they I haven't been able to find anything in a 23" frame (58.4 cm) or the frame paint job is nicked up pretty well, or it's isn't a standard geometry frame or the tubing is plain gauge "high tensile" ( I want, at least, double butted tubes of a good quality steel alloy.)
Btw, I have a '92 Bridgestone Trailblazer. I didn't know "jack" about bikes when I bought it, but did so anyway, because the shop was selling everything cheap (they were going out of business.) Turns out, the frame is too small, which makes for a seat post that extends way-high over the top tube. Also the handlebars have a short stem, so I replaced it w/ one of those heavy adjustable stems as well as w/ a handlebar that has a unsightly steep rise. Looks like a circus bike (darn it!) Another reason that buying used, (assuming that I found a bike/frame that would "work" for me) is not all that good an idea for me, is that I'm not all that handy w/ tools. So I wouldn't be able to save cash by doing the work myself. Of course, I can change the bars, stem, tires, add fenders, mirror, and a rear rack.... but I'd surly screw-up installing cables, derailleurs and doing the more "technical" stuff. Furthermore, I would probably screw up ordering the parts (not realizing that an item wouldn't work w/ what I've got.) I'd probably save money by paying someone else to do the work. I do appreciate your feedback though. Thanks very much. Johern |
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