Most versatile handlebars?
05-14-11, 03:10 PM
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Most versatile handlebars?
I'm getting a new bike and want handlebars that allow me to get very aerodynamic when I want to go fast, and also very upright for when I'm in traffic (NYC). If anyone has any recommendations of products that would be great. These are the drop bars that I currently have, and I'm looking to be able to get more upright, but still be able to get just as aggressive as what I currently have.
Also, I'm not sure what they're called, but I'd like to have brake levers on both parts, like vintage bikes have.
Also, I'm not sure what they're called, but I'd like to have brake levers on both parts, like vintage bikes have.
05-14-11, 08:34 PM
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Since you're in NYC I'd lean toward upright riding more so that you can see better so you don't become a road smear after that car your didn't see hits you while you're in the drops.
__________________
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
05-14-11, 10:59 PM
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I'm getting a new bike and want handlebars that allow me to get very aerodynamic when I want to go fast, and also very upright for when I'm in traffic (NYC). If anyone has any recommendations of products that would be great. These are the drop bars that I currently have, and I'm looking to be able to get more upright, but still be able to get just as aggressive as what I currently have.
Also, I'm not sure what they're called, but I'd like to have brake levers on both parts, like vintage bikes have.
Also, I'm not sure what they're called, but I'd like to have brake levers on both parts, like vintage bikes have.
05-14-11, 11:04 PM
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05-15-11, 05:26 AM
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Trekking bars
mounted 'upside down', with aero road levers on the fronts, flat mountain levers on the backs, and Y-splitter cables to link dual levers to each brake.
mounted 'upside down', with aero road levers on the fronts, flat mountain levers on the backs, and Y-splitter cables to link dual levers to each brake.
05-15-11, 06:38 AM
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That stem is about to take off... reverse and give it a test.
I bet in NY you will find plenty of shops on the a buck a bin accessories and grab some stems for testing.
And please do not go with the lightest handlebars, just a few weeks past a friend's alloy handlebars had premature failure, broken collar bone and lucky to be alive.
I bet in NY you will find plenty of shops on the a buck a bin accessories and grab some stems for testing.
And please do not go with the lightest handlebars, just a few weeks past a friend's alloy handlebars had premature failure, broken collar bone and lucky to be alive.
05-15-11, 11:03 AM
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Yes, I agree. When it comes to parts that are critical to the safety of the bike steel is real. So what if they weight a bit more if you can use and abuse them without failure??
__________________
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.
Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
05-15-11, 11:15 AM
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You only need to fit proper brake levers on your handlebars,
then fit those interrupter levers where they belong, in the middle of the cable.
because they were not made to be on the end of the cable,
they flex the soldered stiff portion where the ball on the end of the cable is,
every time you apply the brake. Danger!
A proper lever for that location, end of the cable,
the cable end pivot lets that flexing happen in the lever,
not bending the stiff section of the cable, to breakage.
Road bike aero brake levers, 2 + the interrupter levers, 2,
in the middle of the housing, end of the tape job..
the cable runs thru the lever, nonstop.
then fit those interrupter levers where they belong, in the middle of the cable.
because they were not made to be on the end of the cable,
they flex the soldered stiff portion where the ball on the end of the cable is,
every time you apply the brake. Danger!
A proper lever for that location, end of the cable,
the cable end pivot lets that flexing happen in the lever,
not bending the stiff section of the cable, to breakage.
Road bike aero brake levers, 2 + the interrupter levers, 2,
in the middle of the housing, end of the tape job..
the cable runs thru the lever, nonstop.
05-15-11, 04:00 PM
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Your seat's pretty high there. Maybe you should have gotten a bigger size (assuming you ordered it new). But that ship has sailed, though, I guess.
Higher stem.
If you didn't say you also want to be able to get aerodynamic sometimes, I'd say get more upright bars, like northroads or something.
Higher stem.
If you didn't say you also want to be able to get aerodynamic sometimes, I'd say get more upright bars, like northroads or something.
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