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FatGuyBiking 08-01-11 09:51 PM

I'm a BIG guy, falling in love with cycling....
 
Hi I'm new here, I've been reading this board for a while but just started my own profile!

I'm a pretty big guy 6'2, 250 pounds. Getting a bike has been one of the best things I've ever done. I know the bike I bought is pretty low-level stuff, I've noticed the shifting isn't always super smooth. Or sometimes after bombing a hill I notice my breaks start to make weird noises, but other than that I'm really satisfied.

I know this is like telling a wine enthusiast that I buy the box stuff, but I bought a Schwinn Marimar.

So far it's been alright, but I was wondering what I could benefit from buy purchasing a more expensive serious bike. I understand the frame will probably be lighter, ect... but what are the mechanical differences?

FatGuyBiking.com

fishymamba 08-01-11 10:56 PM

Welcome to the forum!

More expensive bikes are usually lighter, have better components, are more durable, and you can ride faster on them without worrying about the bike falling apart underneath you.

Something cheap is good if you are just starting out in cycling, but if you plan to ride with a group or if you really get into cycling, you will probably need a better bike, but right now it seems to me that you are just trying to get fitter and that bike is perfect for your level.

Jeff Wills 08-01-11 11:16 PM


Originally Posted by fishymamba (Post 13021170)
Welcome to the forum!

More expensive bikes are usually lighter, have better components, are more durable, and you can ride faster on them without worrying about the bike falling apart underneath you.

Something cheap is good if you are just starting out in cycling, but if you plan to ride with a group or if you really get into cycling, you will probably need a better bike, but right now it seems to me that you are just trying to get fitter and that bike is perfect for your level.

+1. I'll assume you bought a Schwinn Miramar. Just ride it. Don't obsess about the parts. If you ride it enough you'll start to wear stuff out. When you get tired of replacing parts, go to a bike shop and see how what your budget gets you. Subtract about 10%, buy a bike, then spend the difference making the bike right for you.

What newbies (and many experienced cyclists) fail to comprehend is that fitting a bike to your body is at least as important as what equipment is on the bike. At your height and weight you've probably found it tough to find clothes that fit "off the rack". (Me, too- I'm 6-foot-4, 220 lbs.) The same applies to bikes. Yes, you can buy something off the shelf that rolls, shifts, and stops, but there's a vast gulf between that and a bicycle built for you.

For now, though, just ride. Get used to riding that bike, figure out what you like and don't like about it. As your muscles develop and fat burns off, you'll figure out what your next step will be. Happy trails!

MilitantPotato 08-02-11 02:53 AM

That's a decent bike, keep riding it. If it ends up being too fragile, find a 90's mountain bike, get some double walled rims and ride it with no worries.

Upgrading a bicycle won't make you faster, really. The mid-low range parts are just as, if not more durable than the high end stuff, and cost a fraction as much. Riding position is what makes the largest difference, way more than a few pounds ever will (unless you ride up mountains all day.)

FatGuyBiking 08-02-11 11:09 AM

WOW, thanks for the great advice!

It's comforting to have some seasoned pro's tell me that I didn't screw up from the get-go!

Lot's of people like me want to get into biking but are intimidated by things like buying a $250 bike and then having everyone tell you that you WASTED your money. I know the bike I have now is just a stepping stone but sometimes people need reassurance that they don't need to sell their house to afford a hobby they want to pursue!!

FatGuyBiking 08-02-11 11:11 AM

Awesome advice, thank you!


Originally Posted by Jeff Wills (Post 13021217)
+1. I'll assume you bought a Schwinn Miramar. Just ride it. Don't obsess about the parts. If you ride it enough you'll start to wear stuff out. When you get tired of replacing parts, go to a bike shop and see how what your budget gets you. Subtract about 10%, buy a bike, then spend the difference making the bike right for you.

What newbies (and many experienced cyclists) fail to comprehend is that fitting a bike to your body is at least as important as what equipment is on the bike. At your height and weight you've probably found it tough to find clothes that fit "off the rack". (Me, too- I'm 6-foot-4, 220 lbs.) The same applies to bikes. Yes, you can buy something off the shelf that rolls, shifts, and stops, but there's a vast gulf between that and a bicycle built for you.

For now, though, just ride. Get used to riding that bike, figure out what you like and don't like about it. As your muscles develop and fat burns off, you'll figure out what your next step will be. Happy trails!


dcrowell 08-02-11 11:25 AM

I'm about 5'11", but I was 270 lbs when I started riding (down from 300 lbs).

I bought a $225 Giant Cypress ST (the low-end steel, heavy thing). I first had problems with wheels (spokes breaking). I eventually paid to have to nice strong wheels built by a local wheelbuilder (cost more than I paid for the bike). I beat the crap out of that bike.

I rode many thousands of miles on that bike before retiring it. I had cracked the bottom bracket shell (part of the frame). I kept some of the nicer parts I had upgraded to move to my daughter's bike (another Cypress ST).

I've moved on, and I have four nicer bikes now, but if I hadn't started with that cheap bike, I wouldn't be where I am now.

My daughter's bike is still going strong. I recently added a hand-built front wheel with dyno-hub for lighting. She's 19, car-free, and an athena. That bike is her freedom.

CraigB 08-02-11 01:09 PM

Welcome to the sport. Have fun with it.

If you haven't already, you might also consider posting in the Clydesdale/Athena sub-group to glean the experience of other plus-sized riders.

fishymamba 08-02-11 02:26 PM


Originally Posted by FatGuyBiking (Post 13023086)
WOW, thanks for the great advice!

It's comforting to have some seasoned pro's tell me that I didn't screw up from the get-go!

No problem! But I am no where near a seasoned pro :lol:

Nice blog by the way! :thumb:

Mr. Beanz 08-02-11 02:32 PM

FYI, you can buy the best components available and have the adjustments go out as most times new cables break in etc. If you bought a new bike, it may require a little fine tuning of the rear derailleur cable. Most people don't know this then think it's just that the components are low end when in reality, they just may need readjusting. Very easy 'do it yourself" if you are any kind of mechanical. Check out sheldonbrown.com or Parktool.com for instruction.

Might want to keep an eye on the brake cables sometime down the road too. Wheel spoke tension is another important issue at your size. after 200 miles or so, the spokes lose tension and should need to be readjusted or expect some broken spokes somewhere down the road.

Doug5150 08-02-11 02:46 PM

The two biggest problems with really cheap bikes concerns the bearings-
1) the bearings are really, horribly cheap and soft, and don't last long even under the best circumstances
2) aside from #1 above, the bearings often aren't really lubed properly, which makes them start to grind even sooner

Spin the pedals by hand now and then and listen & feel for any 'grinding' sensation; that will mean the BB bearings are gone and need replacing.

Do the same for the wheels, especially the rear wheel. Sometimes with cheap bikes the bearings failing will also ruin the hubs, necessitating buying a whole new wheel for $40 or so, but it's not a disaster.

ahsposo 08-02-11 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by FatGuyBiking (Post 13020997)
Getting a bike has been one of the best things I've ever done.

You will get no argument here with this statement of fact. And Welcome to the Forum. It looks like you have gotten some excellent advice so far. Beanz is correct about the Clydesdale/Athena forum. Very supportive and knowledgeable members.


Originally Posted by FatGuyBiking (Post 13020997)
I know the bike I bought is pretty low-level stuff, I've noticed the shifting isn't always super smooth. Or sometimes after bombing a hill I notice my breaks start to make weird noises, but other than that I'm really satisfied.

It's brakes. Breaks are another thing entirely.

But that is just a soapbox of mine. You will find that many members play fast and loose with the language but not for any intended effect. Please forgive me.

Bikes are like boats. You will find you always need a better one. Rarely is your first your last if you enjoy riding. The only problem is if the bike is so poor it robs you of the fun of riding.


Originally Posted by FatGuyBiking (Post 13020997)
know this is like telling a wine enthusiast that I buy the box stuff, but I bought a Schwinn Marimar.

So far it's been alright, but I was wondering what I could benefit from buy purchasing a more expensive serious bike. I understand the frame will probably be lighter, ect... but what are the mechanical differences

This answer depends on your locale and ambitions. But generally the better bits and pieces are smoother and stay in tune a little longer. A frame can be better because it fits you better and as a result you ride more. Then there is, at least for me, the incentive to ride more and harder to "justify" the high quality of the bike.

Best of luck.

JanMM 08-02-11 08:37 PM

Keep riding the Schwinn and at some point you will figure out what you want in your next bike.
By the way, there is a rule that you must always have a Backup Bike, so that in the event of mechanical or other trouble with your Main Bike you are still able to ride!

Cyclaholic 08-02-11 09:38 PM


Originally Posted by FatGuyBiking (Post 13020997)
Hi I'm new here, I've been reading this board for a while but just started my own profile!

I'm a pretty big guy 6'2, 250 pounds. Getting a bike has been one of the best things I've ever done. I know the bike I bought is pretty low-level stuff, I've noticed the shifting isn't always super smooth. Or sometimes after bombing a hill I notice my breaks start to make weird noises, but other than that I'm really satisfied.

I know this is like telling a wine enthusiast that I buy the box stuff, but I bought a Schwinn Marimar.

So far it's been alright, but I was wondering what I could benefit from buy purchasing a more expensive serious bike. I understand the frame will probably be lighter, ect... but what are the mechanical differences?

FatGuyBiking.com

You're about my size, maybe 10lb heavier..... but we are definitely not big. My wife's two cousins are both over 6' 10" and over 300lb, both work in construction carrying heavy stuff around all the time, neither one is fat, just big. But for all their size and strength they're the kindest, gentlest, most generous people you'll find anywhere.

FWIW my main ride is a Surly LHT. I've owned a lot of bikes over the years, some bought new, some second hand. The LHT is closer to perfect than any of them and unless it's stolen or written off in a crash it'll be the one that will see me out.

Mr. Beanz 08-02-11 09:42 PM


Originally Posted by ahsposo (Post 13024685)
Beanz is correct about the Clydesdale/Athena forum. Very supportive and knowledgeable members.

Unless the "B" in CraigB stands for "Beanz", I can't take credit for suggesting the Clyde Forum.:roflmao2:

FatGuyBiking 08-02-11 10:06 PM

You guys are great, and very welcoming!

Sometimes I feel like I'm defying the laws of gravity, two days ago I rode up a mountain! A month ago I would be too lazy to DRIVE up a mountain lol. I couldn't be happier with my new found love of cycling.

The next thing on my list of things to do is to get my bike set up professionally. I know the derailleur needs to be tweaked, along with my wheels being trued.
I do fancy myself a mechanical person so maybe I'll do some reading and give the derailleur a shot myself.

Anyway, thanks a million guys!


FatGuyBiking.com

ahsposo 08-03-11 07:16 AM


Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz (Post 13026169)
Unless the "B" in CraigB stands for "Beanz", I can't take credit for suggesting the Clyde Forum.:roflmao2:

Whoops! Senior moment.

My apologies CraigB.

CraigB 08-03-11 09:48 AM


Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz (Post 13026169)
Unless the "B" in CraigB stands for "Beanz"...

It didn't the last time I checked, but I'll consider it.

;)

stapfam 08-03-11 01:33 PM

Just a warning for you heavy guys---You need good strong wheels.

Within reason- the frame- make-spec of the bike does not matter but the strength of those wheels does. I have a mate that started riding 10 years ago and he weighs in at 240lbs. He still does and he is a big lad. Started on a Basic mountain bike and his weight and strength knocked those wheels out very quick. Got them replaced under warranty to a stronger set and he broke those. I gave him a set of my old lightweight handbuilt wheels and absolutely no problems for about 6 months and then he cracked a rim. So back to the wheel builder for his own new set of wheels. Still going cheap so LX hubs on a strong Mavic rim with 36 quality spokes. They lasted 2 years before going out of true.

I still use handbuilt wheels and they need not be very expensive. But a Good builder will build a wheel that will take clydes---- his reputation depends on it. And wheels do transfer from bike to bike so it is not an expense that you lose when you get rid of your current bike to something better.


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