Question about locks
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Question about locks
Why is it that I see most people with U-locks?
Aren't they heavy and space consuming?
What's wrong with those small chain/chain ones that wrap around easily?
Aren't they heavy and space consuming?
What's wrong with those small chain/chain ones that wrap around easily?
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What's wrong with those small chain/chain ones that wrap around easily?
The U locks, while bigger, and heavier will deter all but the
most serious bike thief. Of course there is the NY fencepost
method for opening U locks (takes about 5 seconds), but for the
most part the U lock is much more secure than a chain/cable
and padlock.
Marty
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Strength mainly - U-locks generally take longer to cut through, whilst most chains/cables can be cut through with strong bolt cutters, they're also often weak at the point they join the lock. That's not to say they're aren't some fairly strong cables or weak u-locks, but in general U-locks will need power cutting tools or a jack.
Richard
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Originally posted by lotek
They also get defeated easily.
The U locks, while bigger, and heavier will deter all but the
most serious bike thief. Of course there is the NY fencepost
method for opening U locks (takes about 5 seconds), but for the
most part the U lock is much more secure than a chain/cable
and padlock.
Marty
They also get defeated easily.
The U locks, while bigger, and heavier will deter all but the
most serious bike thief. Of course there is the NY fencepost
method for opening U locks (takes about 5 seconds), but for the
most part the U lock is much more secure than a chain/cable
and padlock.
Marty
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Amir, here is a new lock that is I feel is quite good. it is called the Street Cuff, and when used it gives a would be thief hardly any room to use his tools. www.masterlockbike.com it is from the Master lock company.
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I have a collection of locks from large armoured cables, Ulocks to small light "wet string" cable locks.
Everyday, I use the Ulock. For touring I use a better cable lock, and for weekend rides, I take a lighter lock.
Generally, the lighter the bike, the heavier the lock you need.
Everyday, I use the Ulock. For touring I use a better cable lock, and for weekend rides, I take a lighter lock.
Generally, the lighter the bike, the heavier the lock you need.
#7
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Since my undergrad days (UCLA ca. 1970, when/where bicycle theft was rabidly rampant), I have always had one or more theft-resistant beater bikes I could lock up without worrying too much, and I have not let my better-looking, more-expensive bikes out of my sight. Over three decades, I have lost two bikes, both junkers, to theft.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Indeed, post the details of the NY Fencepost method. If I know how it works, perhaps there is something I can do to prevent it from happening to me.
Cheers.
Cheers.