Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

Need help buying my first bike!

General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

Need help buying my first bike!

Old 05-16-02, 10:03 PM
  #26  
meradi
Powered by:
 
meradi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 122

Bikes: 2004 Giant Cypress DX; unknown Trek Police mountain bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cadd,

I got the same automatic reply from Specialized, but after a day or two, a real person from there responded.

Good luck in finding the perfect bike!
Brian
meradi is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 12:21 AM
  #27  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions guys....I'll look into them.

I just got a human reply from Specialized:

****I have a Sirrus and run 32c tires on it and I am pretty sure I could get
at
least a 37/38 on it with out issue. Thank you for your interest in
Specialized.

Sincerely,

Bart****

So what's up with that? Should I trust the LBS that told me that 28c is the fattest I could go? Should I cross them off my list?
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 12:57 AM
  #28  
RacerX
Senior Member
 
RacerX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 1,717
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The sirrus sport seems to have upgraded derailleurs and armadillo tires. $200 worth over the regular sirrus? Personally, no. Both have the same A1 db alloy frameset and very similar component spec. The basic sirrus will not be as easy to maintain because the derailleurs are less precisely made but I say get your use out of them and upgrade to the bulletproof Deore stuff. Deore stuff is really cheap and well made--stuff is tuff. Deore derailleurs are like, $20? You are going to get fat tires anyway so who cares about what's on there now.
My thought is that the base sirrus will get you going for a good while and upgrading parts here and there as you need to will still be alot less than $200.

Aluminum is a great material. Yes, it has different characteristics than steel - like light weight, stiff, responsive. I would say a catastrophic frame failure is so remote that it is not worth discussion for any frame material. you can use any good frame for many years.

Do you have a more experienced rider that can come with you to check fit? That might be the best if you don't quite trust the shop.
My generic guess is that you would fit the 54cm sirrus since a 50cm is really small.

Last edited by RacerX; 05-17-02 at 01:14 AM.
RacerX is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 07:05 AM
  #29  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks RacerX (are you a member in the roadandtrack forums???) I think thereís a RacerX there too! Small world huh? Anyway, I will not abuse the bikeÖ.so I donít think material really matters for me. Iíll just be a recreational riderÖ.riding on weekends and maybe some evenings (if Iím not too tired from work). Wow, I didnít know derailleurs are that cheap!

You mentioned Deore. Is that better or is Tiagra better? I also noticed that the crank is different (larger) on the Sport and by looking at the pictures, the front gears are larger (sorry, donít know the terminology for it).

Now the LBS says the brake & shift lever are much better on the Sport too since they come in two pieces as opposed to the base model. How much would it be to upgrade that stuff in the future?

The reason Iím having a difficult time deciding between these two model is because:

1 Ė Iím new to this and really want a bike that will last me at least 5 years (I donít want to outgrow it).

2 Ė If and when I am ready to upgrade the base model, would it cost more (or would it be more of a hassle) to do so than to just buy a better model (ie. Sport) from the start.

Thanks for listening...
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 07:20 AM
  #30  
lotek 
Senior Member
 
lotek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: n.w. superdrome
Posts: 17,689

Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Iíll just be a recreational riderÖ.riding on weekends and maybe some evenings
Cadd,
I'd watch that, you start riding on weekends, then an
occaisional evening, and next thing you know
you're signed up for a double century and you
base your entire schedule around riding time.
Don't know anything about the bike
your looking at so all I can say is take your
time, and make sure you get a proper
fit.
Marty
__________________
Sono piý lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.


Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.
lotek is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 08:24 AM
  #31  
velocipedio
human
 
velocipedio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: living in the moment
Posts: 3,562

Bikes: 2005 Litespeed Teramo, 2000 Marinoni Leggero, 2001 Kona Major Jake (with Campy Centaur), 1997 Specialized S-Works M2, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by lotek

Cadd,
I'd watch that, you start riding on weekends, then an
occaisional evening, and next thing you know
you're signed up for a double century and you
base your entire schedule around riding time.
Live to ride.

Cadd... Deore is one of Shimano's MTB component groups. Tiagra is one of Shimano's road component groups. They are pretty much equivalent in terms of quality and performance and, in many cases, Shimano's road and MTB components are pretty much interchangeable. This is the Shimano road and MTB equivalents chart:

ROAD / MTB

Sora / Alivio
Tiagra / Deore
105 / Deore LX
Ultegra / Deore XT
Dura Ace / XTR

Most entry-level bikes will be specced with Sora/Alivio or Tiagra/Deore-level components. 105/LX and above are usually found on mid-to-high range bikes. Dura Ace/XTR is the kind of thing the pros use.

If you were to break down component spec by price-point, a VERY rough list would look like this.

Component Group... On bikes in this price range

Sora / Alivio ... $500-800
Tiagra / Deore ... $750-1000
105 / Deore LX ... $950-1300
Ultegra / Deore XT ... $1250-$2000
Dura Ace / XTR ... $1800+
__________________
when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.

The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
Cycling irregularly since 2002
velocipedio is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 09:24 AM
  #32  
Richard D
Donating member
 
Richard D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Faversham, Kent, UK
Posts: 1,852
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by velocipedio

Live to ride.

Cadd... Deore is one of Shimano's MTB component groups. Tiagra is one of Shimano's road component groups. They are pretty much equivalent in terms of quality and performance and, in many cases, Shimano's road and MTB components are pretty much interchangeable. This is the Shimano road and MTB equivalents chart:

ROAD / MTB

Sora / Alivio
Tiagra / Deore
105 / Deore LX
Ultegra / Deore XT
Dura Ace / XTR

Most entry-level bikes will be specced with Sora/Alivio or Tiagra/Deore-level components. 105/LX and above are usually found on mid-to-high range bikes. Dura Ace/XTR is the kind of thing the pros use.

If you were to break down component spec by price-point, a VERY rough list would look like this.

Component Group... On bikes in this price range

Sora / Alivio ... $500-800
Tiagra / Deore ... $750-1000
105 / Deore LX ... $950-1300
Ultegra / Deore XT ... $1250-$2000
Dura Ace / XTR ... $1800+
Don't forget Nexave which is their 'hybrid' line. Nexave 300 series bits seem to be about Alvio level, 400 series Deore, 900 series XT.

Richard
__________________
Currently riding an MTB with a split personality - commuting, touring, riding for the sake of riding, on or off road :)
Richard D is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 10:06 AM
  #33  
Teding
Senior Member
 
Teding's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
velocipedio, thanks for that great comparison! The jamis coda wih the Deore XT components at 799$ list does put in a different class.

CADD, if price is the only thing stopping you from looking at the Coda, find a good Jamis dealer, tell them what your budget is, maybe the shop will come close. They should have at least 50-75$ to work with. (That's what I like about dealing with a small full-service LBS, you're usually dealing with the owner and knows every bike he/she sells.) Most importantly, test ride the properly fitted bikes more than just in the parking lot.

Ted
Teding is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 11:32 AM
  #34  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the comparison....that really helped me a lot! I didn't know the Coda use such expensive parts....wow...maybe I should spend a little more to get the higher quality stuff.

Now how about the frame for the Coda? Reynolds 520...is that good? That is steal right? Not aluminium....in general whould you prefer a frame like this or the Jamis' frame? and why? Again, I'm looking for a quality bike that won't break the bank....i guess the best bang for the buck type of bike....I guess the Coda is really ahead of the competition huh?

Again, velo thanks for the comparo
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-17-02, 01:56 PM
  #35  
RacerX
Senior Member
 
RacerX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Left Coast
Posts: 1,717
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not a member-I guess it's not a very original computer name!
If you are a recreational rider and just looking for the occaisional ride than you are looking for "a good bike". The sirrus is a good bike. Yes, Deore LX or whatever is a better component spec but will it matter for you and your cycling needs? Probably not. The parts on the sirrus will last at least 5 years of the type of riding you describe. Hey, even if you have to spend $100 to upgrade the rear derailleur and shifters in 3 years don't you still come out ahead? Of course! Good fit, comfort, appeal for the MINIMUM amount of money. You can easily nickel and dime your way up to another price range. So many people walk in wanting a $300 bike and walk out with a $600 one. Of course it is a better bike but if you are not going to use it as such, isn't it too much $ to spend? In this price range, $50 or $100 is alot of money.

I recommend Deore (to upgrade to later on) over road stuff because it is heavy-duty. That stuff is cheap and bullet proof. Freeriders and downhillers use that stuff. Perfect for the urban jungle!
Since the sirrus frame is the same for the top-of-the-line sirrus as the base model, it will be worthy of future upgrades. the A1 tubing is great stuff- they used that in their FSR XC, Stumpjumper, Rockhopper and Enduro frames up to last year. Those are upwards of $2000.00 bikes.
Plus you are free to upgrade as you wish--customize your bike to your needs as it were.

I didn't notice but my guess is that the sirrus has a compact drive crankset (slightly easier gears). It doesn't really affect anything and isn't "cheaper".

Originally posted by Cadd
Thanks RacerX (are you a member in the roadandtrack forums???) I think thereís a RacerX there too! Small world huh? Anyway, I will not abuse the bikeÖ.so I donít think material really matters for me. Iíll just be a recreational riderÖ.riding on weekends and maybe some evenings (if Iím not too tired from work). Wow, I didnít know derailleurs are that cheap!

You mentioned Deore. Is that better or is Tiagra better? I also noticed that the crank is different (larger) on the Sport and by looking at the pictures, the front gears are larger (sorry, donít know the terminology for it).

Now the LBS says the brake & shift lever are much better on the Sport too since they come in two pieces as opposed to the base model. How much would it be to upgrade that stuff in the future?

The reason Iím having a difficult time deciding between these two model is because:

1 Ė Iím new to this and really want a bike that will last me at least 5 years (I donít want to outgrow it).

2 Ė If and when I am ready to upgrade the base model, would it cost more (or would it be more of a hassle) to do so than to just buy a better model (ie. Sport) from the start.

Thanks for listening...
RacerX is offline  
Old 05-19-02, 08:26 AM
  #36  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I think I'm going with the Sirrus (base)....but it's so difficult to decide. I really really really like the drop bars though! Maybe a cyclocross is right for me, but they are so expensive (no one carries the Jamis Nova, Jake the Snake, or the Volpe around here :confused: ) I thought these are good bikes!??? I just want to take one out for a spin and see if it's "day and night" compared to the flat bars. I will be going to many many many LBS this week and will be asking lots of questions. Hopefully I have a bike at the end of the week.

I just don't know what's good for me I just don't want to get ripped off or get the "wrong" bike and have to end up buying the "right" bike in 2 years.
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-19-02, 07:39 PM
  #37  
Teding
Senior Member
 
Teding's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by Cadd
I think I'm going with the Sirrus (base)....but it's so difficult to decide. I really really really like the drop bars though! Maybe a cyclocross is right for me, but they are so expensive (no one carries the Jamis Nova, Jake the Snake, or the Volpe around here :confused: ) I thought these are good bikes!??? I just want to take one out for a spin and see if it's "day and night" compared to the flat bars. I will be going to many many many LBS this week and will be asking lots of questions. Hopefully I have a bike at the end of the week.

I just don't know what's good for me I just don't want to get ripped off or get the "wrong" bike and have to end up buying the "right" bike in 2 years.
Cadd,

This site might be of some help with your test rides.
ChainReaction
Teding is offline  
Old 05-19-02, 08:33 PM
  #38  
bt_
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cadd,

i don't mean to throw a spanner in your works, especially if you've already settled on a bike. but if you're still in the market let me share you with you what i went through.

i'm 5'8", 150# so i'm not to far from your size (though the bikes we feel comfortable on can be far from the same!) and recently bought my first bike in 15 years -- my last bike was a bmx bike when i was in elementary school!

i live in san francisco in the very hilly parts and wanted something to ride around for fun and possibly to commute with downtown. i originally wanted a mountain bike because 80% of the bikes at the LBS' are mountain bikes and that was very similar in riding style to bmx bikes. however i rode my friends track bike -- single speed, no brakes other than your leg muscles -- and was totally blown away by how much easier to pedal up hills and on pavement compared to the mountain bikes i had been trying (treks, specialized, marin and giant around the $600 range). i loved it! but he was scared to ride off ANYTHING higher than 1" and i like doing minor hucks with my bike.

wouldn't it be great if i could get that feeling of ease of acceleration and gliding along with some minor ability to take in on dir and be able to bunny hop curbs higher than 3"'s? enter my current bike: redline cyclocross conquest.

it's alumnium, light, rigid EVERYTHING, entry-level parts (sora, vueltra and other "small-name" parts), but it has clearance and 35C knobbies and it's a blast! it does everything i want: hop curbs, ride small dirt trails, take the occasional root/rock, blast downtown and climb back up 20%+ grades; it feels nimble and i even like the yellow color. msrp is $799 but i negotiated 200 off the price because i was ready to walk out the store and apparently this isn't such a hot seller so the owner was willing to talk down the price to get it off his floor.

be aware if you try cyclocross bikes they tend to run larger than road bikes and they don't need as much stand-over height as mtn bikes. but to me they seem the perfect "city" bike with their mix of ruggedness (compared to strict road bikes) and their aggressive road handling (compared to the mtn bikes i tried in our price range). find the right fit and the drop handlebars are wonderful! i followed the rivendell recommendations and have the handlebars level with my seat post and my back hasn't hurt yet; i only have ridden about 30-45 minutes around town however and that includes a lot of changing position when at stop signs or if i have to get out of the saddle when climbing steep hills.

hope this helps! either way you go i'm sure you're going to love your bike IF it fits right!!

bt
bt_ is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 06:55 AM
  #39  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
bt, you got a nice bike there! It looks very aggressive. Most of the time I goto an LBS, all I see are road and mt. bikes.....they usually don't have much in the hybrid or cyclocross...I think I'll just stick to the Sirrus for now (unless the LBS finds a great deal for me for a cyclocross).
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 07:03 AM
  #40  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by bt_
...i'm 5'8", 150# so i'm not to far from your size (though the bikes we feel comfortable on can be far from the same!)
What size frame did you get? I know cycloX frames are larger than mtb & roadies right?
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 09:40 AM
  #41  
velocipedio
human
 
velocipedio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: living in the moment
Posts: 3,562

Bikes: 2005 Litespeed Teramo, 2000 Marinoni Leggero, 2001 Kona Major Jake (with Campy Centaur), 1997 Specialized S-Works M2, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by Cadd
What size frame did you get? I know cycloX frames are larger than mtb & roadies right?
Actually, 'cross frames are generally measured the same way as road frames. The difference is the bottom bracket height, which can be 1.5-2 cm higher than on a road bike. Consequently, a 'cross frame will have a 1.5-2 cm higher standover height than a road frame of the same size.

The conventional wisdom, then, is to get a 'cross bike one size smaller than your usual road frame -- if you ride a 54 cm roadie, get a 53 or 52 cm 'cross bike. However, this is only a rough guideline, since 'cross bikes typically have shorter top tubes than road bikes, and top tube length is at least as important as vertical height.

To give you an ide of how complicated sizing can be... I ride a 50 cm, traditional geometry road bike, with a 53 cm top tube and a 12 cm stem. I have a "long back" [which basically means I have proportionally shortish legs], so I had trouble getting a fit on a 'cross bike. The 49 cm Kona that I tried had a 52 cm top tube which would have required a really long stem for me to be comfortable.

I settled for the 52 cm Kona -- going completely against conventional wisdom -- since the slightly sloping top tube gave me adequate standover height [about the same as my road bike] with a 53 cm top tube. I put an 11 cm stem on it which gives me 1 cm less reach than my road bike and provides me with what I think is a perfectly comfortable position riding in the drops.
__________________
when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.

The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
Cycling irregularly since 2002
velocipedio is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 09:51 AM
  #42  
Teding
Senior Member
 
Teding's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Additional information on frame sizing:

Rivendell frame sizing page

It all boils down to...are you comfortable on the bike?

Ted
Teding is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 12:47 PM
  #43  
bt_
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: san francisco
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by Cadd


What size frame did you get? I know cycloX frames are larger than mtb & roadies right?
as velocipedio stated earlier, they run slightly different geometry than road bikes and have a higher bottom bracket so there is less standover height when comparing to the same [seat tube] sized road bike.

my inseam is a touch over 30" and with the shorter top tube i felt more comfortable with a bike "larger" than i should've gotten: 52cm measured center-to-center. following the guidelines on the 'net i shoulda probably gone for a 50 or a 48 on the small end.

as is, when i straddle the bike it's, umm, snug. however, since i intend to spend the majority of the time pedaling rather than standing over the top tube i decided to make sure the cockpit was comfortable. though pretty much everything can be adjusted (handlebar stem, seat, crankset) the 52 allowed me the better feel.

enjoy riding! at first i was a bit hestitant commuting into downtown traffic but now i find it exciting cuz there's nothing like knowing you could get run over at any time; it really pushes me to pedal as fast as i can go!

bt
bt_ is offline  
Old 05-20-02, 10:47 PM
  #44  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the guideline guys....I'm excited to announce that I got the bike today!!! (jumping with joy!). But I do have my doubts and would like to measure it myself and see if it's good fit for me. The LBS was very honest with me...he had the 2001 Sirrus base model (silver) for $450 and the Sirrus Comp (blue) for $500 (this price is only for me....the price tag was much higher...i guess he liked me ). Anyway, he had the Comp in a MEDIUM and the base model in SMALL. He said the SMALL fits me better. But I think I like the DEORE LX on the Comp better (the base model has DEORE). But I trusted him when he said the SMALL is better for me....as for numbers, I don't know....I'm not sure where to look to see how big the frame is. I don't see any numbers with inches or any numbers with centimeters

OK now the bike:

A 2001 Specialized Sirrus: (remember, I'm new to this but I'll try to get all the specs.....sorry I didn't get an instructions manual...should I get one? I was just too excited )

-Frame size: Small (not sure what the numbers are....can someone point me to a website that shows me how to measure it which a tapemeasure?)

-Wheels: Mavic XP 21 (32 spokes)

-Tires: Specialized Armadillo Turbo 700x26c

-Front derailleur: Deore (has 3 gears up front)

-Rear derailleur: Deore (has 9 gears in the back)

-Frame: A1 XXX butted aluminum

-Front fork: no clue...sorry

-headset (this is the piece between the handlebar stem & the fork right? if so): Ritchey Logic

-front/rear brakes: (it doesn't have a name), but some type of V-brakes

-Brake lever: Deore V-brake

-Shift lever: (it's a one piece with the brakes) the name is Mega Drive Train.

-Pedal: Shimano...no model (it has a clip thing.....like a snowboard binding with black plastic surrounding it with reflectors on both ends)

-Seat: Specialized body Geometry

-Seat post: USE SX (<-----that's the name of it)

-front/rear hub: (is this the piece next to the quick release on the rims? if so) it's a Ritchey...no model

That's all the info I can give now....

Again the main difference the LBS told me about my bike and the Comp is just the derailleurs....the Comp (for $50 more) has the DEORE LX.

Is it worth the $50? :confused:

And how do I measure my bike to see if it fits me right?

Thanks for all the help, support and advice each and everyone one of you contributed! You guys are a great bunch
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 04:29 AM
  #45  
Teding
Senior Member
 
Teding's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cadd,

Sounds great. Your off to many years and miles of fun!

The frame size is usually the distance fron the center of the crank to the top of the seat tube. (17, 18, 19, 20, etc. inches or more commonly today in cm., 50, 53, etc.

A cycling club is a good way to meet other rider, and learn about cycling. Look for a club that's touring/road oriented. (Some are more racing oriented.)

Have fun

Please, wear a helmet.

Ted

Teding is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 08:32 AM
  #46  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thx Teding. I'll be riding w/my friends for a while first....if they give up, I'll join some club and ride w/others. I hope they have newbie clubs, I don't think I can keep up with most people.
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 09:13 AM
  #47  
gabiker
Senior Member
 
gabiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rome, GA
Posts: 538

Bikes: Lemond Zurich, Specialized Stump Jumper, Soon to be Litespeed Solano

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cadd,

I ride the 2001 Specialized Comp and so far I have been very happy with it. Just rode 62 miles in a club ride last Saturday and it performed very well. I didn't have a problem with my hands but did a little with my shoulders and that probably would have happened with drop bars too.

So far I like the brakes and shifters being right by my hands at all times and the tires are bullet proof.

If you notice with the Sirrus; all of them including this years models have a Deore front der. Mine has the LX on the rear which I may upgrade to an XT.

Anyway now just go out ride and enjoy. It will do what you need it to do and if you out grow it you can worry about that when the time comes.

Welcome to the Sirrus club...
gabiker is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 09:18 AM
  #48  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally posted by gabiker
Anyway now just go out ride and enjoy. It will do what you need it to do and if you out grow it you can worry about that when the time comes.

Welcome to the Sirrus club...
I feel proud already....I think I'm gonna take my bike out today (I took a week off just for bike purchase & riding AND IT'S ONLY TUESDAY!!!!) for the inaugural ride!
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 09:19 AM
  #49  
Cadd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 1,452
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
And if you do upgrade to XT (just the rear derailleur? or the whole set?), and have no use of the LX and want to sell it, let me know.
Cadd is offline  
Old 05-21-02, 11:19 AM
  #50  
gabiker
Senior Member
 
gabiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rome, GA
Posts: 538

Bikes: Lemond Zurich, Specialized Stump Jumper, Soon to be Litespeed Solano

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cadd,

That is a good posibility. I really don't know what to sell it for though. You have any idea's?

Let me know...

Oh yeah it only has about 300 to 400 miles on it so there is much life yet. And I do take very good care of it.
gabiker is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.