What pedals are these?
06-19-13, 09:02 PM
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What pedals are these?
So, to start off, couldn't find anything that really fit this. Anyway, I bought a bike off of Craigslist, and the previous owner never told me it had clipless pedals. So, needless to say, when I got there, he was out at work, and the wife sold me the bike (she was the one who listed it, but knew nothing about bikes), and being me, I didn't ask if he still had his old cycling shoes and cleats so that I could take the cleats. So, now I have these pedals on this bike, and for the life of me, I can't get them off! So, I was hoping maybe someone could identify them so that I can acquire the right set of cleats and use them.
06-19-13, 09:29 PM
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Those are "tioga clipless pedals" the reviews for them on other forums do not paint them in a very pretty picture, except for the price. Do you have a pedal wrench? And are you turning the wrench the right way? And do you have enough leverage? If they are seized, try and spray some WD40 into the threads.
06-19-13, 09:32 PM
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Well, that sucks that they have bad reviews. As for a specific pedal wrench, no, but I do have metric wrenches that I am using. 16 seems to fit, but it won't budge. As for WD40, surprisingly don't have any in the apartment. Guess it's back to brute forcing them off.
06-19-13, 09:35 PM
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I would buy a can of WD-40, and a pedal wrench, sometimes brute force is not enough.
06-19-13, 09:44 PM
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Wrap the crank arm in hot towels. Ice the pedal. Use lots of penetrating lube. Pray the steel axle (pedal) threads haven't rusted. Use a long arm pedal wrench and make sure your loosening direction is correct. The purpose of heat and cold is to allow micro space for the penetrating lube to seep into. Using direct heat (propane torch) on crank arms (to warm but not over heat) or ice/dry ice axle shaft is last ditch next level dangerous territory. Rust on steel threads can form on a layer of aluminum, an aluminum oxide that is so hard (think aluminum oxide sandpaper) that it binds the steel to aluminum with a physical joint at the threads that can't be twisted. Look at the end of pedal axle shaft in the crank arm, if there is no rust...you should be fine.
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06-20-13, 09:01 AM
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Make sure you are turning the wrench in the correct direction.
06-20-13, 09:21 AM
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If I'm not mistaken, most of these older clipless can use the Shimano SPD cleats.
06-20-13, 01:33 PM
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06-20-13, 08:43 PM
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15 mm should fit better. A pedal wrench would give you more leverage.
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06-21-13, 05:32 AM
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PB Blaster is my preference for loosening stuck threads, the hot/cold is a good idea too. I am prone to use a torch, but most of my bikes have steel cranks on them...
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
06-21-13, 10:47 AM
#13
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
Wellgo cleats: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...teel-cleat-kit
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06-22-13, 08:16 PM
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Many of the non-Shimano "SPD" pedals were made by Wellgo and use a slightly different cleat. The Shimano cleat will work, but release may be tougher.
Wellgo cleats: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...teel-cleat-kit
Wellgo cleats: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...teel-cleat-kit
