A couple of questions regarding trainer use and rear wheels/tires
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A couple of questions regarding trainer use and rear wheels/tires
I just ordered a new Cycleops Fluid 2 trainer today, and I have a couple of questions. My understanding is that they can be rather hard on the rear tire. I run a Specialized Mondo S-works rear tire, which being a light, and expensive tire, I am wondering if I need to be concerned. I would hate to blow through 40 dollar tires. The alternative I guess would be to change the tire every time I use the trainer (which will not be terribly often here in Florida), or get a dedicated wheel. If the latter is the preferred route, I wonder what the cheapest way would be to go with a replacement wheel for use of the trainer. I run Dura-ace, so I would have to get a set of Dura-ace cogs to put on the wheel.
Also if I leave the stock (again Dura-ace - I run a Dura-ace wheelset) skewer in place will it be scratched by the left fastener? I guess I am looking for the most expeditious, inexpensive answer to this if in fact it is a problem. I know many of you have already delt with these issues so I would like the benefit of your experience/counsel. Thanks.
Also if I leave the stock (again Dura-ace - I run a Dura-ace wheelset) skewer in place will it be scratched by the left fastener? I guess I am looking for the most expeditious, inexpensive answer to this if in fact it is a problem. I know many of you have already delt with these issues so I would like the benefit of your experience/counsel. Thanks.
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I bought a 60$ wheel from performance (a surprisingly good wheel) and installed a used but ok cassette. Now everytime I tear a tire, I boot it and throw it in the heap to go on the trainer. Nashbar sells a nutted skewer (I think for theft resistance) that is really cheap and fits the trainer like a glove. After all of that, I can't say that my old Minoura mag trainer is really that hard on tires...oh well
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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Use an old and worn out tire. If you don't have one, ask you LBS for one, they'd be glad to give you one.
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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
I don't have a trainer, sorry.
But If I didn't have a spare wheel for the trainer, I'd change the tire. Only about a 10-15 min job.
But If I didn't have a spare wheel for the trainer, I'd change the tire. Only about a 10-15 min job.
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I've heard that since your bike is clamped into the trainer and the angle between your tire and rolller never changes, the trainer will wear a 'flat spot' on your tire.
I'm not sure if I believe it though. The roller is a smooth, even surface. Compared to the places that I ride (rough asphalt, concrete), I have to think that I'm putting a lot more wear on my back tire during my 2 hour Saturday ride than I do in the 2 1/2 hours that I spend on the trainer during the week.
If I were in your shoes, and not spending an inordinate amount of time on the trainer, I don't think I'd bother with changing the tire or putting a new wheel on. Just make sure your tire and roller are relatively clean and grit-free before you ride on the trainer.
Regarding the skewer, I think that most trainers come with a replacement skewer for you to use with the trainer.
I'm not sure if I believe it though. The roller is a smooth, even surface. Compared to the places that I ride (rough asphalt, concrete), I have to think that I'm putting a lot more wear on my back tire during my 2 hour Saturday ride than I do in the 2 1/2 hours that I spend on the trainer during the week.
If I were in your shoes, and not spending an inordinate amount of time on the trainer, I don't think I'd bother with changing the tire or putting a new wheel on. Just make sure your tire and roller are relatively clean and grit-free before you ride on the trainer.
Regarding the skewer, I think that most trainers come with a replacement skewer for you to use with the trainer.
#10
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I have a Fluid 2 and have not seen much tire wear in the two winters I have used it. I have heard of people losing pieces of rubber off of tires from trainers, but have not experienced it myself. I have noticed slight flat spotting of the tire. I think the major source of tire problems is from trainers with small diameter rollers. The small roller heats up and causes the tire rubber to soften and shred off the tire. The larger the roller on the trainer, the less heat generated on the surface. I am sure the tire compound has something to do with it also. I saw one trainer advertised with an elastomer surface on the roller to prevent tire wear, but I can't remeber which one. The OEM tires I got on the bike are cheap, so when the back one wears out, I will keep the front for the trainer and buy a set of good tires. I replaced my spindle with the one that came with the trainer because it does get scratched. Good luck.
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I usually end up spending more time on the trainer than on the road.
I haven't seen a problem with my rear tire yet, and I check it after every ride. It's a cheap stock tire.
Whenever I buy a new road bike, I'll leave my current one on the trainer full time so I don't have to worry about it at all.
I haven't seen a problem with my rear tire yet, and I check it after every ride. It's a cheap stock tire.
Whenever I buy a new road bike, I'll leave my current one on the trainer full time so I don't have to worry about it at all.
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The trainer will wear the tire faster than on the road. It's because you have a small contact area on the tire and you distort the tire more with the roller than on the road. It's not just the tread it's the sidewall too. A cheap tire may come apart. Don't use a good tire.
If you ride hard your may slip the tire against the roller wheel occasionally too. Or it will slip as you look for the right adjustment. This wears the tread too. To really ride hard you need hard roller pressure against the tire. To reduce the wear to a minimum keep your tire as hard as possible. And don't tighten the roller more than you need. Don't try to get enough resistance to stand up as on a big hill you may start bending axles.
Just like my Cyclops.
Your trainer will come with a skewer just to use with the trainer. Don't put a nice one in the trainer.
If you ride hard your may slip the tire against the roller wheel occasionally too. Or it will slip as you look for the right adjustment. This wears the tread too. To really ride hard you need hard roller pressure against the tire. To reduce the wear to a minimum keep your tire as hard as possible. And don't tighten the roller more than you need. Don't try to get enough resistance to stand up as on a big hill you may start bending axles.
Just like my Cyclops.
Your trainer will come with a skewer just to use with the trainer. Don't put a nice one in the trainer.
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Originally Posted by 2manybikes
The trainer will wear the tire faster than on the road. It's because you have a small contact area on the tire and you distort the tire more with the roller than on the road. It's not just the tread it's the sidewall too. A cheap tire may come apart. Don't use a good tire.
If you ride hard your may slip the tire against the roller wheel occasionally too. Or it will slip as you look for the right adjustment. This wears the tread too. To really ride hard you need hard roller pressure against the tire. To reduce the wear to a minimum keep your tire as hard as possible. And don't tighten the roller more than you need. Don't try to get enough resistance to stand up as on a big hill you may start bending axles.
Just like my Cyclops.
Your trainer will come with a skewer just to use with the trainer. Don't put a nice one in the trainer.
If you ride hard your may slip the tire against the roller wheel occasionally too. Or it will slip as you look for the right adjustment. This wears the tread too. To really ride hard you need hard roller pressure against the tire. To reduce the wear to a minimum keep your tire as hard as possible. And don't tighten the roller more than you need. Don't try to get enough resistance to stand up as on a big hill you may start bending axles.
Just like my Cyclops.
Your trainer will come with a skewer just to use with the trainer. Don't put a nice one in the trainer.
#14
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Originally Posted by skydive69
I just ordered a new Cycleops Fluid 2 trainer today, and I have a couple of questions. My understanding is that they can be rather hard on the rear tire. I run a Specialized Mondo S-works rear tire, which being a light, and expensive tire, I am wondering if I need to be concerned. I would hate to blow through 40 dollar tires. The alternative I guess would be to change the tire every time I use the trainer (which will not be terribly often here in Florida), or get a dedicated wheel. If the latter is the preferred route, I wonder what the cheapest way would be to go with a replacement wheel for use of the trainer. I run Dura-ace, so I would have to get a set of Dura-ace cogs to put on the wheel.
Also if I leave the stock (again Dura-ace - I run a Dura-ace wheelset) skewer in place will it be scratched by the left fastener? I guess I am looking for the most expeditious, inexpensive answer to this if in fact it is a problem. I know many of you have already delt with these issues so I would like the benefit of your experience/counsel. Thanks.
Also if I leave the stock (again Dura-ace - I run a Dura-ace wheelset) skewer in place will it be scratched by the left fastener? I guess I am looking for the most expeditious, inexpensive answer to this if in fact it is a problem. I know many of you have already delt with these issues so I would like the benefit of your experience/counsel. Thanks.
If you're concerned about the trainer chewing up a rear tire, buy some super cheapie tires for trainer use only. A cheaper wheel for trainer use only is a good idea too. Performance has a good price on Conti Ultra 2000 wire beads right now - $9.98. They're a decent tire for road work as well but they're a little heavy for racing.
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=5420
I just noticed that they are now down to one size - 700x25. These 25's are very narrow though and are as narrow as many brand's 700x23's. Nashbar will price match them and they currently have a 15% coupon code - CADFR [Exp 2/25, 3pm EST].
I recently bought eight 700x25 and six 700x28 of these through Nashbar using a 10% coupon and only paid $8.98 each. They're a decent tire for road training purposes and for that price they're also suitable for using on the CycleOps. It's not like I'll feel guilty for wearing out an expensive tire or something.
When you adjust the tension of your trainer against the tire you'll want it snug enough so that it doesn't slip and squeak but not any tighter than is necessary. If the tension is too tight the tire will just generate extra unecessary heat and increase the wear. I've even read where some numbnuts had a couple of tubes pop because there was so much heat.
P.S. aren't you the guy with a Roubaix and a Sequoia that you keep at your daughter's place? I seem to remember your handle from cyclingforums.com.
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Thanks for the info Dr. Morbius. Nope, I keep my Sequoia at my house and my Roubaix at my girlfriends house (where I spend 5 days a week). I don't know where I will keep my time trial bike which is something I am considering!
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I think that you'll like having a spare rear wheel. I am living with monsoons right now and a clean wheel and cassette is a lot easier on the walls and ceiling (!). The conti 2000 Dr. Morbius mentioned seems to be a very tough tire. At 10$ it is a steal. The 25 Conti fits into my frame about the same as a Vredestein 23. Keep pets/children away from you when you spin up!
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Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to get an garage sale bike for the trainer and never have to take it off? I know I use my trainer more because I have an old bike on it and don't have to mess with set up.
Joe
Joe
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Originally Posted by joeprim
Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to get an garage sale bike for the trainer and never have to take it off? I know I use my trainer more because I have an old bike on it and don't have to mess with set up.
Joe
Joe
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Originally Posted by fsor
I think that you'll like having a spare rear wheel. I am living with monsoons right now and a clean wheel and cassette is a lot easier on the walls and ceiling (!). The conti 2000 Dr. Morbius mentioned seems to be a very tough tire. At 10$ it is a steal. The 25 Conti fits into my frame about the same as a Vredestein 23. Keep pets/children away from you when you spin up!
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Some trainers eat up tires, some don't. Mine dosen't, I got 3500 miles on a Vittoria Rubino Pro slick.
I find it hard enough to get trainer time in, without changing tires every single time. I would listen to the guys that have the same trainer as you do, and only worry about it if they have wear problems.
I find it hard enough to get trainer time in, without changing tires every single time. I would listen to the guys that have the same trainer as you do, and only worry about it if they have wear problems.
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I have a Cyclops Fluid but I don't change tire/wheel to use it. Tire wear really isn't that bad at all if you do a few things...
1) Use a slick
2) Use as little pressure on the roller as possible. Just enough to keep it from slipping when riding. I set mine so that it actually does slip a bit when I move the wheel back and forth with my hand, but when riding, I don't accelerate quickly and it doesn't slip.
3) Keep the rear wheel as round as possible. And mount the tire so that it is as round as possible. Reduces slipping and allows even lower roller pressure.
4) Keep the wheel as true as possible to eliminate side slip.
5) Keep the rear tire inflated to high pressure. I usually pump up to 120psi.
1) Use a slick
2) Use as little pressure on the roller as possible. Just enough to keep it from slipping when riding. I set mine so that it actually does slip a bit when I move the wheel back and forth with my hand, but when riding, I don't accelerate quickly and it doesn't slip.
3) Keep the rear wheel as round as possible. And mount the tire so that it is as round as possible. Reduces slipping and allows even lower roller pressure.
4) Keep the wheel as true as possible to eliminate side slip.
5) Keep the rear tire inflated to high pressure. I usually pump up to 120psi.