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Super glue ball bearing into the seat / saddle post?

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Super glue ball bearing into the seat / saddle post?

Old 07-12-13, 02:25 PM
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iChopS
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Super glue ball bearing into the seat / saddle post?

Does anyone have pictures or a video of this? all the balls I've been using seem to not be able to fit flush into the bolt, is it supposed to be protruding? Just asking because I figured it'd be easier for someone to just take a flat head against the exposed part and popping the whole thing out? If it's supposed to be protruding how has it held up for you?
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Old 07-12-13, 02:30 PM
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Wut?
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Old 07-12-13, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tagaproject6 View Post
Wut?
ditto
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Old 07-12-13, 02:50 PM
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Have you fixed the stollen baby bike bolts before doing any of that?
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Old 07-12-13, 02:50 PM
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Some bikes use an Allen head capscrew as a seat binder bolt. To deter theft of said seat/seatpost, they will superglue a BB or other ball-bearing into the Allen socket.. This method is especially effective if the capscrew is recessed like it is on my Miyata-built Univega.
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Old 07-12-13, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bikepro View Post
ditto
Really? you guys have never heard of super gluing a ball (from a ball bearing) or something similar in size in the two hex bolts that hold the saddle and stem to prevent theft? This is usually recommended/suggested for more expensive saddles
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Old 07-12-13, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cougrrcj View Post
Some bikes use an Allen head capscrew as a seat binder bolt. To deter theft of said seat/seatpost, they will superglue a BB or other ball-bearing into the Allen socket.. This method is especially effective if the capscrew is recessed like it is on my Miyata-built Univega.

Any advice in regards to the original question?
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Old 07-12-13, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by iChopS View Post
Any advice in regards to the original question?
As long as you cannot fit the proper Allen wrench into the bolt head, the BB has done it's job. It need not protrude from the bolt head face. I use epoxy to hold the BB myself... it is a bit 'thicker' and fills the void better. It does require a bit of extra effort to remove the epoxy/BB which is the intended purpose in the first place!
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Old 07-12-13, 03:20 PM
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Or just fill it completely with epoxy.

Nothing is fullproof, you're basically just trying to make the thief have a harder time, so he passes up your bike and goes on to someone elses.
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Old 07-12-13, 03:27 PM
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If a thief wants our seat he is getting it regardless of what you superglue where. It's an additional deterrent, giving the thief an incentive to look for lower hanging fruit.


Edit: Yeah what ed said
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Old 07-12-13, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by iChopS View Post
Really? you guys have never heard of super gluing a ball (from a ball bearing) or something similar in size in the two hex bolts that hold the saddle and stem to prevent theft? This is usually recommended/suggested for more expensive saddles
Been riding over 30 years and your original post made no sense at all. Your explanation makes it clear. While it makes sense, I never heard of doing it before.
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Old 07-12-13, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bikepro View Post
Been riding over 30 years and your original post made no sense at all. Your explanation makes it clear. While it makes sense, I never heard of doing it before.
It was common when I lived in LA. Outside the big city, I haven't fooled with it. The problem is that if you do a really good job, it's a PITA to adjust anything.
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Old 07-12-13, 07:13 PM
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Hitting the ball bearing with a torch would make the superglue immediately melt and the ball bearing would fall out. Epoxy would be another story, though.
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Old 07-12-13, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BlazingPedals View Post
Hitting the ball bearing with a torch would make the superglue immediately melt and the ball bearing would fall out. Epoxy would be another story, though.
How do you remove the epoxy?
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Old 07-12-13, 09:14 PM
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A soldering iron gets even epoxy hot enough to liquify
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Old 07-12-13, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
A soldering iron gets even epoxy hot enough to liquify
Yeah but I don't see that many people walking around with a solder.. The heating up of the glue definitely is more plausible
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Old 07-12-13, 11:12 PM
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I looked at doing this as well, but it looks like it could be easily circumvented. I ended up going with this. Not sure if it's been tested yet, but my hope is they just look at it and say "eh, too much trouble" and move on.. I don't tend to leave my bike anywhere more than an hour though.
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Old 07-12-13, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by knobster View Post
but it looks like it could be easily circumvented.

Please elaborate
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Old 07-12-13, 11:44 PM
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I thought the preferred method was to put a QR on the seat tube and take the saddle with you? I am not sure I would apply heat to my CF seat tube either in the retaining collar or the saddle mounting head. I do know people that use a saddle locking cable. But to super glue or epoxy over the adjusting/ binding bolts sounds like as big of a hassle to the owner as it might be to anyone else. If they want the saddle what keeps them from just cutting off the seat post? Craftsman make a very nice battery powered saws all.
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Old 07-13-13, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by iChopS View Post
Yeah but I don't see that many people walking around with a solder.. The heating up of the glue definitely is more plausible
But, the soldering iron is much less likely to do damage, than the torch, for when you need to change something. That hi temp flame burns a lot of stuff.
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Old 07-13-13, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by iChopS View Post
Please elaborate
Most of the "glue" is fairly fragile so using a small screwdriver and a hammer, I've seen someone pop a BB out of a seat collar very quickly. I thought it was a good idea until my friend said "oh yeah? watch this..."
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Old 07-13-13, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by knobster View Post
Most of the "glue" is fairly fragile so using a small screwdriver and a hammer, I've seen someone pop a BB out of a seat collar very quickly. I thought it was a good idea until my friend said "oh yeah? watch this..."
This EXACTLY my concerns with the original question, I figured if I can get it without protruding that it would make it somewhat "harder" to just pop it out, but as much as it's recommend on this site and on the internet there has yet to be a full guide
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Old 07-13-13, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
But, the soldering iron is much less likely to do damage, than the torch, for when you need to change something. That hi temp flame burns a lot of stuff.
Well I meant in regards to thieves, it's probably more likely they'll have a source of fire than a solder. and at that point if they just aim for the seat post they can still salvage a nice saddle.
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Old 07-13-13, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mobile 155 View Post
I thought the preferred method was to put a QR on the seat tube and take the saddle with you? I am not sure I would apply heat to my CF seat tube either in the retaining collar or the saddle mounting head. I do know people that use a saddle locking cable. But to super glue or epoxy over the adjusting/ binding bolts sounds like as big of a hassle to the owner as it might be to anyone else. If they want the saddle what keeps them from just cutting off the seat post? Craftsman make a very nice battery powered saws all.

That's probably the safest bet, but definitely the most inconvenience, I really ride as a minimalist and carrying my seat everywhere isn't convenient at all. As for needing to adjust things, I feel once everything is positioned correct I really never touch the seat again and the few times that I might have to is worth the little extra deterrent from theft. And lastly, yeah they could carry a power saw or grinder but at that point they'd probably just cut my lock and take the whole bike.
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Old 07-13-13, 08:59 AM
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Any thief who takes the trouble to carry around a torch would probably use it to cut the lock and take the whole bike, not just the seat.
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