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Buying a wheelset for winter (Canondale Bad Boy 700 disc brakes)

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Buying a wheelset for winter (Canondale Bad Boy 700 disc brakes)

Old 07-15-13, 02:56 PM
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xtender
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Buying a wheelset for winter (Canondale Bad Boy 700 disc brakes)

Hi! I have bought a Cannondale Bad Boy 700 (disc brakes). I was cycling even during wintertime but I found it boring to change from summer tires to winter tires and back. What I am thinking about is that changing wheels should be much more easier than changing tires. So I want to buy a wheelset and equip it with winter tires. The problem is that I do not really understand what should I buy to build a functioning winter wheelset. My guess is that I need 2 tubes, 2 wintertires, a wheelset, brake discs for front wheel and rear wheel and a cassette for rear wheel. I have to admit that I have a rather feeble understanding about specs for all the components and whether anything is missing in my equation. Any tips about where to find how-tos, which other components I might need and how to shop them the best way? Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-15-13, 03:22 PM
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You probably need wider rims for a tire like Nokian's Studded ones.

Not already up on the wheelbuilding? dont have to ..

There are built disc Brake hub wheels for Cross/Hybrid/29ers.. check with your LBS..
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Old 07-15-13, 05:21 PM
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Which model Bad Boy? If it's the solo fork,be advised that those single sided hubs are brand-specific to C'dale. Getting a new wheelset could get expensive. Also,depending on which model you have,you might be able to mount 26" wheels with knobbies. If they'll fit,MTB knobbies are much wider than anything 700c(non-29er) and you'll have lots of choices.

If you can go with the 26" wheelset,then it'd be worth it to have a second wheelset for the wide winter tires. If they won't fit,then I'd suggest just swapping tires. You only really have to do it twice a year,and it'll save alot of money over a second wheelset.
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Old 07-16-13, 10:06 AM
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Hi! Thanks for your answers! The bike is called Bad Boy 700c. I am not sure I understand what you mean with the solo fork. How can I find out that? What is a solo fork? In any case you can check the specs of the bike for example here:

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/...20194#features

I paste the specs even below:

Frame:Bad Boy Stealth SI
Fork:Cannondale Fatty SI disc
Front Derailleur:Shimano FD-440
Rear Derailleur:Shimano SLX
Shifters:Shimano SL-R440
Chainset:FSA Gossamer Pro
Chainrings:46/36 tooth chainrings
Bottom Bracket:MegaExo
Cassette:CSM 96 polished black 11-32 tooth
Chain:KMC X9 with black nano finish
Pedals:Octopus
Front Brake:Aigura Sub with black rotors
Rear Brake:Aigura Sub with black rotors
Brake Levers:Aigura Sub
Handlebars:Cannondale Urban flat bar 31.8mm
Stem:Cannondale C3
Headset:Cane Creek
Grips:Cannondale “Cityscape”
Rims:Cannondale C2 black
Front Hub:Shimano Deore
Rear Hub:Shimano Deore
SpokesT Swiss in black
Front Tyre:Schwalbe Kojak Bad Boy Edition 622 × 28
Rear Tyre:Schwalbe Kojak Bad Boy Edition 622 × 28
Saddle:Fizik Pave incl. ICS black
Seatpost:Cannondale C3
Seat Binder:Gorilla Park in black chrome
Accessories:ICS Bad Boy Edition lights
Weight:22.70lbs (10.3kg) Approx.
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Old 07-16-13, 10:28 AM
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OK that is just a normal 2 bladed fork , C'dale makes a monotube single sided one too.
that may be the solo idea , a misnomer .

Having Disc Brakes does make a 26" wheel possible .. but IDK what kind of clearance those have

since I dont have one, might be too narrow.. then you just get another 700c wheel set .

probably transfer the cassette to the other wheel set , or pull the chain with the wheel to keep them paired.
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Old 07-16-13, 04:33 PM
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Solo fork:


Yours has a standard folk,so that's not an issue. My Bad Boy Ultras are designed to swap back and forth between skinny 700 and 26" MTB wheelsets. If you have a friend with a MTB or a friendly bike shop,you could try swapping wheelsets to see if you've got clearance for MTB knobbies. If they don't fit,I'd just save the money and swap tires. I run Marathon Supremes on my Safari until it snows,then I just swap on my studded Kendas until the weather gets better. Swapping tires twice a year just isn't a big deal,and gives me an excuse to give the tires a thorough going over to see if there's anything stuck in the tread and how the sidewalls are holding up.
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Old 07-18-13, 09:33 AM
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for riding on paved and mostly plowed roads in winter
you should get a narrower tire
not a wider one

a narrower tire will cut through the slush and soft snow to contact the hard surface underneath
a wider tire will tryu to float on top of the loose stuff and provide much less traction

a reasonable tire width for winter riding in a city is 35mm
several companies make studded tires in this width for 700c
you onlty need studded in the front imho

if you are trail riding or riding on top of packed snow or on unpaved surfaces
then wider tires are generally better
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Old 07-18-13, 03:41 PM
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OP is from the UK (Evans is a UK dealer). UK winter conditions are mostly wet roads, so fenders are essential, with up to 2-3 weeks of freezing conditions, up to 6" damp snow with poor snowplough coverage and refreezing ruts.
Find out the biggest tyre you want to run. 28mm such as std marathon is fine for most winter rides but 32 will give you better protection over potholes in the dark. For frozen ruts, wider tyres are much better.
In the freeze-ups, you probably want studded winter tyres such as Marathon Winter.
The real value of spare wheels is switching between normal winter tyres and studded tyres during freeze/thaw days. You can run studded tyres during the non-freeze but it wears them down.
See if you need 26 or 700c size, mainly it affects the height of the bottom bracket off the ground, and your clearance at the frame.
Hub
Spokes
Disc rim without braking surface
rim tape
inner tube
tyre
Brake disc
Cassette
Chain
New disc pads

Deore are fine but you may want to pack more grease to the bearings to prevent ingress of any muck. Keep the spindle well greased and oil the QR
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Old 07-24-13, 04:59 AM
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Being as the OP is in the UK, there is almost no point in getting a 'winter' set of wheels, would go with the suggestion on mudguards (fenders), but for the couple of days that we have servere snow and ice in the UK (the OP doesn't give there location, so for certain areas this may not be the case), the cost of getting studded / winter tires is so extreme (looking at £70-100 a pair) you may as well take a few days off the bike, and use the bus, car or not ride.

For the rest of the UK winter (99%) as long as you stick to bus routes, which are always a priority for councils to grit / keep clear, apart from perhaps reducing your speed slightly, there should be no need to change you riding, or bike/tires.
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Old 07-24-13, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
for the couple of days that we have servere snow and ice in the UK

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Old 07-24-13, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
Not sure what you getting at, as UK has a temperate climate, anything other than temperate weather is severe; heat or snow, the infrastructure isn't setup for any form of extreme, and the transport networks grid to a halt at the sign of it being too hot or cold. If we had months of snow, the country would prepare, for a few days a year, every few years, it's not cost effective.
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Old 07-24-13, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
Not sure what you getting at, as UK has a temperate climate, anything other than temperate weather is severe; heat or snow, the infrastructure isn't setup for any form of extreme, and the transport networks grid to a halt at the sign of it being too hot or cold. If we had months of snow, the country would prepare, for a few days a year, every few years, it's not cost effective.
what i am getting at is that the uk does not get
severe
ice and snow

while you may be unprepared for even small amounts
of ice and snow
that doesnt make small amounts
of ice and snow
severe ice and snow
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Old 07-24-13, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
what i am getting at is that the uk does not get
severe
ice and snow

while you may be unprepared for even small amounts
of ice and snow
that doesnt make small amounts
of ice and snow
severe ice and snow
no idea where you are, as you can't be bothered to put it in your locations details, but severe is relevant to your location, if you are in a climate where you have snow & ice for 6 months a years, it's normal, for the UK, where we have it for about a week total every few years, it's sudden & severe, as we aren't used to it regularly. As I said, it's all relative to where you are, and what your normal climate is.
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Old 07-24-13, 08:41 AM
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I'd be very wary of swapping 700c and 26inch mtb wheels back and forth on a bike. It may work on your bike but you typically drop the bottom bracket height and increase the possibility of clipping the pedal arm when turning the bike. With disc brakes I guess this is possible but I am not convinced it is a good idea (I realize one of the posters had been doing this and it appears to work for him). A better choice might be a 650b conversion (again you will have to do some homework to see if this will work).
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Old 07-24-13, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
(I realize one of the posters had been doing this and it appears to work for him).
I've never actually done it on my BBU's(or my F600),but Cannondale has used this as a selling point since the mid '00's. Ballpark measurements(I'm too lazy to pull the wheels off) of my '09 BBU's 700 wheel w/28mm tire and my F600's 26" wheel with 2.1" knobby show a touch over 1/2" difference. I wouldn't consider that critical.
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Old 07-24-13, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by dynaryder View Post
I've never actually done it on my BBU's(or my F600),but Cannondale has used this as a selling point since the mid '00's. Ballpark measurements(I'm too lazy to pull the wheels off) of my '09 BBU's 700 wheel w/28mm tire and my F600's 26" wheel with 2.1" knobby show a touch over 1/2" difference. I wouldn't consider that critical.
My guess is that since Cannondale touts this as a possibility is that the bike has a high enough BB height with 700c so that using a 26 inch wheel is not a problem with this frame. It is a problem with many (if not most) other frames because you'll get heel strike when you corner. At least that has been my experience in trying this sort of conversion.
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