New Member, Tire Question
OK, so, I dusted off the old mt bike. My gut is getting too big, time to get in better shape. I am a little embarrassed at how badly out of shape I have gotten. No problem, I have a fluid trainer to get me more or less road worthy. I will be riding a mt bike mainly on the roads for a while, with the knobby tires, it is noisy as heck on the trainer. What slicks would be good to get? Been out of biking for years, so have no clue what companies are good these days.
I used to keep up with the latest and greatest, but not now. To put it in perceptive, I have Onza clipless pedals, and that newfangled V-Brake tech on my bike. And my bike is way older than the V-Brakes. Never had slicks on my bike, anything to look into as far as width, brands... Local bike shop has rarely steered me wrong, just don't know what width of tire to get, what brands are good... I hate to go shopping without some knowledge of what is optimal. Thanks. |
Nashbar Streetwise Slicks: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...57_-1___202472 . Anything in 26 x 1.50" with a slick tread will be pretty similar.
You can probably pump them to 80 psi without issue. I rode my mountain bike with 26 x 1.25" slicks pumped to 100 psi for a while. (I'm 6-foot-4, 230 pounds.) It was a very fast, reliable commuter. |
Unless you ride on some pretty seriously rocky trails, slicks will work better for you and won't sound like a motor cycle on the trainer.
I'm sure others will argue, but I'm not a big fan of real skinny tires on mountain bikes. I think that anything less than about 1.5" wide looks goofy. I've got 1.9" tires on my beater bike and never thought I paid a performance penalty over skinnier tires. |
What are you looking to spend? Schwalbe Marathon Supremes are pretty much the best slicks out there,but usually go for $50+. Kenda Kwests aren't as nice,but are decent tires and cost less than half as much. Vittoria Randonneurs fall in the middle for quality and price.
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I ride with Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, 2 inch wide, and like them a lot. Durable, smooth, good grip.
The wider the tire, the lower you want the pressure. Here is a table I came up with for pressure - weight on a single wheel across the top, tire width in mm down the side, pressure at the corresponding row/column intersection: http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps9066802f.jpg |
I don't doubt you, Jim, but why wide = lower pressure?
M. |
Originally Posted by MEversbergII
(Post 15880009)
I don't doubt you, Jim, but why wide = lower pressure?
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for the trainer just get
the cheapest slick tire that the nearest lbs has in stock |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 15875173)
?..I'm sure others will argue, but I'm not a big fan of real skinny tires on mountain bikes. I think that anything less than about 1.5" wide looks goofy. I've got 1.9" tires on my beater bike and never thought I paid a performance penalty over skinnier tires.
As for brand, I rode an old Bridgestone mountain bike on the road for years, even did a century on it, and I couldn't tell a significant difference among brands of slick(ish) tires. About 1.5, 70-80 psi and just go ride. |
Geax Street Runners are good and decent slicks. I ordered them online for my mtn bike and I'm happy with them
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 15880264)
PSI means pounds per square inch. A wide tire has a lot more square inches. If you were to inflate it to the same pressure as a skinny tire, it would have a lot more force trying to push the rim flanges apart.
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I just put a pair of 2" Schwalbe Kojaks on my old Trek 930 and am really pleased with them. The ride is so much smoother and quieter now, and the new tires grip the pavement noticeably better than the old knobbies. Plus they're a bit zippier and it's easier to pedal up hills. I've been riding them at 70 psi and the only downside so far is a slight bit of extra harshness over the biggest bumps, but I hardly notice and the benefits are so worth it.
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Originally Posted by kitkat
(Post 15885344)
I just put a pair of 2" Schwalbe Kojaks on my old Trek 930 and am really pleased with them. The ride is so much smoother and quieter now, and the new tires grip the pavement noticeably better than the old knobbies. Plus they're a bit zippier and it's easier to pedal up hills. I've been riding them at 70 psi and the only downside so far is a slight bit of extra harshness over the biggest bumps, but I hardly notice and the benefits are so worth it.
Its about right for 28mm tyres and average weight. With those tyres I'd use ~ 40 psi rear and ~ 32 psi front, very different, but loads more grip and no harshness. Might not feel as fast, but will go faster. (And the tyres will last quite a bit longer.) Higher if you are heavy, (I'm average), e.g. 50/40. |
Originally Posted by sreten
(Post 15885623)
Hi, Unless your an elephant 70 psi is way, way too much, rgds, sreten.
Its about right for 28mm tyres and average weight. With those tyres I'd use 45 psi rear and 35 psi front, very different, loads more grip and no harshness. |
Originally Posted by kitkat
(Post 15885684)
I'm not an elephant, I just liked the ride on my old knobbies more
when they were inflated to just under their max so I've been starting high with these. I do plan on trying them out with less pressure as well, so I will give your suggestion a shot, thanks. FWIW what I did with my 47mm / 1.75" tyres on my folder : Pumped them both up to 50 psi. The front was harsh, bouncing off off road bumps and felt skittish with little grip. So it let it down to the point it coped well with the typical local crap roads I ride. I then purposely road over road bumps, ridges, drain covers etc comparing the back to the front and pumped up the rear so it felt about as harsh through the saddle as the front. I've probably settled on generally running it somewhat a bit lower, but always have the above matching pretty near between the tyres, the rear being always being pumped up harder than the front. rgds, sreten. |
Originally Posted by sreten
(Post 15885808)
Hi,
FWIW what I did with my 47mm / 1.75" tyres on my folder : Pumped them both up to 50 psi. The front was harsh, bouncing off off road bumps and felt skittish with little grip. So it let it down to the point it coped well with the typical local roads I ride. I then purposely road over road bumps, ridges, drain covers etc comparing the back to the front and pumped up the rear so it felt about as harsh through the saddle as the front. I've probably settled on generally running it somewhat a bit lower, but always have the above matching pretty near between the tyres, the rear being always being pumped up harder than the front. rgds, sreten. |
Originally Posted by Fred_G
(Post 15874384)
Never had slicks on my bike, anything to look into as far as width, brands... Local bike shop has rarely steered me wrong, just don't know what width of tire to get, what brands are good...
I hate to go shopping without some knowledge of what is optimal. Thanks. I'm curious about the Bontrager Hank http://bontrager.com/model/02856 I discovered them earlier this week by accident. At 60 tpi they should give a smoother ride. I used to be a max inflation rider, but even though it doesn't feel like it, lower pressures are faster due to bad terrain not displacing the tires energy/inertia...and, it's considerably more comfortable. The Schwalbe Kojaks look great but I wanted wider. Anyone ever measure the Kojaks actual width? |
Originally Posted by Bike Rat
(Post 15886225)
Anyone ever measure the Kojaks actual width?
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Originally Posted by sreten
(Post 15885623)
Hi, Unless your an elephant 70 psi is way, way too much, rgds, sreten.
I run 70psi in the 26x2" Marathon Supremes on my Safari. If you disagree with this,then you are wrong. You can pull out your chart and give me examples from personal experience,and you'll still be wrong. That's because it's my bike,not yours. 70psi is within the manufacturer's specs,as well as the rim's,and I like it. So that is the correct tire pressure. |
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier
(Post 15880357)
for the trainer just get
the cheapest slick tire that the nearest lbs has in stock It sure is much more quiet on the trainer. |
Originally Posted by Jim Kukula
(Post 15877194)
I ride with Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, 2 inch wide, and like them a lot. Durable, smooth, good grip.
The wider the tire, the lower you want the pressure. Here is a table I came up with for pressure - weight on a single wheel across the top, tire width in mm down the side, pressure at the corresponding row/column intersection: http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps9066802f.jpg My wife rides an MTB frame and wheelset on the road with Ritchie Tom Slick 26 X 1" tires at 100 lbs. They work great on the road and trainer both. Obviously she doesn't run up on curbs with these, though bunny hopping is fine. You want big fat tires for curbs to absorb the shock, though they are contraindicated for normal road riding. |
Ah, my chart also neglects wheel diameter! I think pressure is inversely proportional to the square root of the wheel diameter. The chart is a fit to Berto's graphs for 700C tires. For 26 inch tires, about 10% more should be good.
It is certainly true that charts like this are way too simple. But I would say that the pressure range on the sidewall is also rather simple. Certainly going much over the top is risky. But just what makes a manufacture put a particular pressure range on a sidewall can be rather strange, it seems. There are engineers, marketeers, lawyers, etc. and who wins the debate will vary. The business of pressure vs rim width is quite fascinating. Just the subject of rim width vs tire width. It seems like wide tires on narrow rims is quite common these days. It's not clear it is anything like optimal. Look at the range of rim widths "approved" for 50 mm tires: http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_in...dimensions#rim Is the best pressure for a 50 mm tire the same on a 17 mm rim as on a 27 mm rim? Yeah my chart totally omits this little detail but I suspect it really isn't so small. It does seem that at least on the narrowest rims you won't want to be putting too high a pressure in the tire because that puts a very large stress on the rims. On the wider rims the angle of the sidewall leaving the rim is not so abrupt so a higher pressure should be less risky. Definitely on rough roads a bit lower pressure is good, to provide suspension, but not so low as to risk pinch flats. On smooth roads the suspension isn't so valuable and so higher pressure is nice to reduce the rolling resistance. There are a zillion factors. Yeah if you have lots of luggage then suspension is nice but if it's just you on the bike then maybe high pressure is good if you can just hop the bike over any rough spots. Much harder to hop a bike with 60 pounds of groceries in the panniers, especially with platform pedals! The real purpose of the chart is just to try to open up thinking on the subject. Once you start thinking about optimum pressure as a function of width and load.... it can be a fun space to explore! |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 15886808)
Your wish is my command. I just went down and measured one of mine at 1.33". That's on a 20" Aero-Heat rim. The actual tire width will vary somewhat depending on rim width.
Thanks for checking, good sign that all sizes might be as accurate. The Kojaks are great looking tires, they remind of goodyear slicks on rail dragsters. I hadn't thought about them in 20" before, but know I'm tempted to put a set on my childhood bike that I'm slowly rebuilding. Oh, man!!! |
Originally Posted by Bike Rat
(Post 15886225)
I have Resist Nomad 2.25" on my dedicated street mtb.
The best selection of 26" street tires that I have found is here. |
Originally Posted by gregjones
(Post 15895459)
I am by no means a weight weenie, but those tires are 750+ grams/tire, in a 26" size. I will not run over three pounds of tire on anything that I have to pedal uphill.
The best selection of 26" street tires that I have found is here. Looking at the tires you linked, I'd only be interested in the Maxxis Hookworm 2.5"; unfortunately they're too wide for my brakes. And, wow, 1250 grams each! |
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