Keep them hard
09-30-13, 10:41 AM
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Keep them hard
My good friend's back tire always looks a little low. He is one of these people that doesn't sweat the small stuff. If you are new to cycling or you have the same personality as my friend, save up and buy a good floor pump, and use the psi numbers on the side of the tire. If you do have the same personality as my friend you are probably a very happy person already, but is so much more fun to ride with the right pressure in your tires.
09-30-13, 10:48 AM
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Depending on the tire and weight of the rider, you often don't want to inflate to the maximum pressure. But regardless, you do want to check and make sure you're running at whatever pressure you mean to be running.
09-30-13, 10:56 AM
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I like them supple and firm, but not hard, myself.
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There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
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09-30-13, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
I like them supple and firm, but not hard, myself.
09-30-13, 05:01 PM
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09-30-13, 05:44 PM
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Mine always look like that no matter what. I have hybrid tires on a hybrid bike and am 225lbs but even if I was lighter it would seem the would be like that some.
09-30-13, 05:58 PM
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I like mine softer. Too hard and they start to shake and become harder to handle. Too soft and they don't last as long because of friction. I would never go too hard as one of them could blow. It never happened to me though.
Last edited by erig007; 09-30-13 at 06:07 PM.
09-30-13, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by erig007
I would never go too hard as one of them could blow. It never happened to me though.
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
09-30-13, 06:48 PM
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Sheldon Brown has some good information on tire inflation. The tire is supposed to bulge a little when you sit on it or it's overinflated.
www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
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09-30-13, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CbadRider
Sheldon Brown has some good information on tire inflation. The tire is supposed to bulge a little when you sit on it or it's overinflated.
www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width
https://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
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09-30-13, 08:10 PM
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Some seem to think that I am condoning over inflating tires. I did say look at the numbers on the sides of the tire.
09-30-13, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottRae
Some seem to think that I am condoning over inflating tires. I did say look at the numbers on the sides of the tire.
10-01-13, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottRae
Some seem to think that I am condoning over inflating tires. I did say look at the numbers on the sides of the tire.
10-01-13, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottRae
Some seem to think that I am condoning over inflating tires. I did say look at the numbers on the sides of the tire.
10-01-13, 11:12 AM
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That tire drop pdf is interesting. It suggests tire pressures that are much lower than what common wisdom dictates. As long as you are not getting pinch flats or bottoming out on rocks or debris it's all good. That means most folks can run much lower pressures that those most folks run.
10-01-13, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by digibud
That tire drop pdf is interesting. It suggests tire pressures that are much lower than what common wisdom dictates. As long as you are not getting pinch flats or bottoming out on rocks or debris it's all good. That means most folks can run much lower pressures that those most folks run.
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RUSA #7498
Originally Posted by chandltp
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
10-02-13, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Yep. I suspect that those of us who've had no issues with the guidelines are running larger tires than our weight would "require" anyway. (For example, I'm 160 lbs and don't use any tires smaller than 28mm.)
Aaron
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10-02-13, 04:45 AM
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When all the air is on the outside of the tire, you have a problem.
You're friend will trade sweating the little things for letting te big things dictate his life. Lacing up new rims is a real time suck.
You're friend will trade sweating the little things for letting te big things dictate his life. Lacing up new rims is a real time suck.
10-02-13, 04:56 AM
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Mine feel the best around 90 front/100 rear but I pump them up to 120ish anyway. That way I don't have to pump them up again for 3-4 days. Sometimes I get let them get as low as 70/80 before I fill them again.
10-02-13, 05:41 AM
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I tell the kids at the coop to pump their tires until they get bored, take it for a test ride and then slowly let air out until the drivetrain isn't clanking around as they ride around town normally. I've found this to be one of the most reliable ways to find that sweet spot in tire pressure.
One thing's for sure, once you've felt a nice, supple, tire at the proper pressure, you're never going back to ignoring them like you once did.
One thing's for sure, once you've felt a nice, supple, tire at the proper pressure, you're never going back to ignoring them like you once did.
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10-02-13, 07:32 AM
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I made up a little table based on Berto's tire drop graphs, plus a bit of theorizing:
https://interdependentscience.blogspot.com/2013/06/bicycle-tire-pressure.html
These pressures are probably at the low end of the general riding range. But "the right pressure" depends on lots of factors, e.g. how smooth the road is. If most of the weight on the bike is a skilled rider or tied to the rider, e.g. in a backpack, then the rider can unweight the bike to hop over obstacles. If the weight is tied to the bike, then the tires have to manage the collision on their own. Ah, but what if the bike has suspension forks etc.? Seems then you can use higher pressure. Unless you're using the mountain bike on a loose surface like mud or gravel, in which case you want lower pressure to improve traction. Tricky stuff!
https://interdependentscience.blogspot.com/2013/06/bicycle-tire-pressure.html
These pressures are probably at the low end of the general riding range. But "the right pressure" depends on lots of factors, e.g. how smooth the road is. If most of the weight on the bike is a skilled rider or tied to the rider, e.g. in a backpack, then the rider can unweight the bike to hop over obstacles. If the weight is tied to the bike, then the tires have to manage the collision on their own. Ah, but what if the bike has suspension forks etc.? Seems then you can use higher pressure. Unless you're using the mountain bike on a loose surface like mud or gravel, in which case you want lower pressure to improve traction. Tricky stuff!
10-02-13, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Kukula
I made up a little table based on Berto's tire drop graphs, plus a bit of theorizing:
https://interdependentscience.blogspot.com/2013/06/bicycle-tire-pressure.html
These pressures are probably at the low end of the general riding range. But "the right pressure" depends on lots of factors, e.g. how smooth the road is. If most of the weight on the bike is a skilled rider or tied to the rider, e.g. in a backpack, then the rider can unweight the bike to hop over obstacles. If the weight is tied to the bike, then the tires have to manage the collision on their own. Ah, but what if the bike has suspension forks etc.? Seems then you can use higher pressure. Unless you're using the mountain bike on a loose surface like mud or gravel, in which case you want lower pressure to improve traction. Tricky stuff!
https://interdependentscience.blogspot.com/2013/06/bicycle-tire-pressure.html
These pressures are probably at the low end of the general riding range. But "the right pressure" depends on lots of factors, e.g. how smooth the road is. If most of the weight on the bike is a skilled rider or tied to the rider, e.g. in a backpack, then the rider can unweight the bike to hop over obstacles. If the weight is tied to the bike, then the tires have to manage the collision on their own. Ah, but what if the bike has suspension forks etc.? Seems then you can use higher pressure. Unless you're using the mountain bike on a loose surface like mud or gravel, in which case you want lower pressure to improve traction. Tricky stuff!
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
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