28H year?
#1
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28H year?
I'm trying to make my new vintage frame build period-correct. Does anyone happen to know which year 28H wheels came into the picture? Mine are 700c.
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#2
~>~
The C&V Forum may be more appropriate, try re-posting there.
What "new" vintage frameset precisely are you referring to?
Pics & serial numbers are required for accuracy.
What "period" are you attempting to be "correct" to, pre-1940?
Road or track?
Front/Rear/Both?
700C tubulars/clinchers?
Be specific, post clear close-up pics from as many angles as possible & include accurate barometric pressure.
-Bandera
What "new" vintage frameset precisely are you referring to?
Pics & serial numbers are required for accuracy.
What "period" are you attempting to be "correct" to, pre-1940?
Road or track?
Front/Rear/Both?
700C tubulars/clinchers?
Be specific, post clear close-up pics from as many angles as possible & include accurate barometric pressure.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 03-21-14 at 05:42 PM. Reason: re-posting
#3
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What's "correct" probably depends on your specific bike. Alf Engers was using 24H wheels in the 1970s, for what that's worth.
#4
Banned
Smaller wheels , need fewer spokes .. my Bromptons have both had 28 spoke rear wheels ..
older one had a 20 spoke front.
what picture, I dont see any thing pictured ?, post those pictures ..
older one had a 20 spoke front.
Does anyone happen to know which year 28H wheels came into the picture?
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i'm sure you'll get numbers that are all over the place.
why not emulate me? i know i started in 1995, and nobody can legitimately deny it!
why not emulate me? i know i started in 1995, and nobody can legitimately deny it!
#6
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From what I've read so far, it appears safe-to-say that I should probably stick with 32H, since my F.H. Grubb is reportedly from the 1950's.
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#7
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Bob, by "...the picture", I meant "the cycling scene, in either U.S or Europe".
If you weren't joking, and are looking for pictures, you can see the frame-in-
question at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rame-info.html
If you weren't joking, and are looking for pictures, you can see the frame-in-
question at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rame-info.html
__________________
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
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Bob, by "...the picture", I meant "the cycling scene, in either U.S or Europe".
If you weren't joking, and are looking for pictures, you can see the frame-in-
question at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rame-info.html
If you weren't joking, and are looking for pictures, you can see the frame-in-
question at: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...rame-info.html
#9
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Thanks, JohnD. Wow. I had not heard of 40H wheels before! That is the information I was looking for. (I was hoping to use some of my unused 28H wheels). I'll have to get a new set-up, so as not to arouse the enmity of the traditionalists.
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
#10
Banned
SA 3 speed IGH were common .. sensibly weight bias 40/60 get reflected in the spoke count..