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New to the forums and new to cycling
I am trying to get a bike to ride for fitness and to work. 9 miles one way. I was offered a 2002 cannondale m300 for $150.00. I know very littlel about bikes but i am learning pretty fast. My question is if i buy a bike this old will i be able to get parts for it? and should i take it to a bike shop to get it checked out first or is this something i could check myself. thanks much.
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According to bikepedia.com the last year Cannondale made tis bike was 2000.
MSRP of $434.
2000 Cannondale M300 - BikePedia
MSRP of $434.
2000 Cannondale M300 - BikePedia
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#5
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I am trying to get a bike to ride for fitness and to work. 9 miles one way. I was offered a 2002 cannondale m300 for $150.00. I know very littlel about bikes but i am learning pretty fast. My question is if i buy a bike this old will i be able to get parts for it? and should i take it to a bike shop to get it checked out first or is this something i could check myself. thanks much.
As far as getting it checked out, there are some things you can do yourself. First, check that the handlebars are straight and that they are properly lined up with the front wheel. Use the seat adjustment to make sure the seat is straight, and put it somewhere reasonable for a test ride. Next, Pick up each end of the bike and spin the tires. Look for side to side wobble where the tires go through the brakes and listen for any grinding sounds at the hubs. They should run straight and smooth. Minor wobble can be fixed by having your LBS true the wheels for a small fee. Next, while the tires are spinning, look and listen for any rubbing by the brakes. Make sure the brake handles pull easily and that the brakes release when the handles are released. Check for air pressure in the tires and if possible ride the bike and make sure that both the front and rear shifters and derailleurs work properly across the entire gear range. Once you've done this, you've covered most of the basics to make sure the bike is rideable.
Assuming you purchase the bike, a trip to your local LBS for adjustment and lubrication is usually a good idea and usually not overly expensive. Developing a good working relationship with a quality LBS will make your cycling life much easier.
Good luck! Many enjoyable miles are ahead of you!
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It's always best to get an old chromoly steel bike with at least fair components, when buying used more than ten years or so
However, for the price, it sounds like a pretty fair deal, if everything is square!
However, for the price, it sounds like a pretty fair deal, if everything is square!
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#8
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Not a bad bike for the price if it's in good or better condition. Parts should be readily available, and honestly, your local bike shop (LBS) can probably do the work for you and offer upgraded components when the time comes. I wouldn't recommend putting a ton of cash into upgrading this bike. Get it, make sure everything is properly adjusted and ride it until you figure out what you like and don't like. Then talk to your LBS about upgrades or a new bike.
As far as getting it checked out, there are some things you can do yourself. First, check that the handlebars are straight and that they are properly lined up with the front wheel. Use the seat adjustment to make sure the seat is straight, and put it somewhere reasonable for a test ride. Next, Pick up each end of the bike and spin the tires. Look for side to side wobble where the tires go through the brakes and listen for any grinding sounds at the hubs. They should run straight and smooth. Minor wobble can be fixed by having your LBS true the wheels for a small fee. Next, while the tires are spinning, look and listen for any rubbing by the brakes. Make sure the brake handles pull easily and that the brakes release when the handles are released. Check for air pressure in the tires and if possible ride the bike and make sure that both the front and rear shifters and derailleurs work properly across the entire gear range. Once you've done this, you've covered most of the basics to make sure the bike is rideable.
Assuming you purchase the bike, a trip to your local LBS for adjustment and lubrication is usually a good idea and usually not overly expensive. Developing a good working relationship with a quality LBS will make your cycling life much easier.
Good luck! Many enjoyable miles are ahead of you!
As far as getting it checked out, there are some things you can do yourself. First, check that the handlebars are straight and that they are properly lined up with the front wheel. Use the seat adjustment to make sure the seat is straight, and put it somewhere reasonable for a test ride. Next, Pick up each end of the bike and spin the tires. Look for side to side wobble where the tires go through the brakes and listen for any grinding sounds at the hubs. They should run straight and smooth. Minor wobble can be fixed by having your LBS true the wheels for a small fee. Next, while the tires are spinning, look and listen for any rubbing by the brakes. Make sure the brake handles pull easily and that the brakes release when the handles are released. Check for air pressure in the tires and if possible ride the bike and make sure that both the front and rear shifters and derailleurs work properly across the entire gear range. Once you've done this, you've covered most of the basics to make sure the bike is rideable.
Assuming you purchase the bike, a trip to your local LBS for adjustment and lubrication is usually a good idea and usually not overly expensive. Developing a good working relationship with a quality LBS will make your cycling life much easier.
Good luck! Many enjoyable miles are ahead of you!
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Very clean!
#12
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$100? YOu could be arrested for stealing!
Unless you will be riding off-road, consider 1.50" tires with minimal or no tread. Lots to choose from.
Unless you will be riding off-road, consider 1.50" tires with minimal or no tread. Lots to choose from.
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Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
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I agree... that bike was a good deal.
And, I concur with JanMM on tires. I prefer a little tread since I spend a lot of time on crushed stone and gravel, but 1.50" works well for me. I have ridden a little narrower too, but didn't notice any real improvement, and didn't feel as stable on gravel (probably more psychological than real).
And, I concur with JanMM on tires. I prefer a little tread since I spend a lot of time on crushed stone and gravel, but 1.50" works well for me. I have ridden a little narrower too, but didn't notice any real improvement, and didn't feel as stable on gravel (probably more psychological than real).
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People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson