Raleigh RX 2.0 vs. Trek Crossrip LTD
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Raleigh RX 2.0 vs. Trek Crossrip LTD
Hi Folks,
I've been lurking around the forum for a few months now but just recently joined. I am looking to get back into the cycling world after a short (3 year) leave. I spend about 90% of my time cycling on a rail-trail (paved 20+ mile old rail line) and the other 10% out in the city forest. I'm looking to spend <$2,000 on this bike and have narrowed my choices down to two good contenders.
I would like your opinion as to which bike is best suited, and why you would go with said bike. I've been going back and forth on the bikes and can't come to a conclusion.
Bike One: Raleigh RX 2.0 - Raleigh Bicycles - RX 2.0
Bike Two: Trek Crossrip LTD - CrossRip LTD - Trek Bicycle
Thank you!
I've been lurking around the forum for a few months now but just recently joined. I am looking to get back into the cycling world after a short (3 year) leave. I spend about 90% of my time cycling on a rail-trail (paved 20+ mile old rail line) and the other 10% out in the city forest. I'm looking to spend <$2,000 on this bike and have narrowed my choices down to two good contenders.
I would like your opinion as to which bike is best suited, and why you would go with said bike. I've been going back and forth on the bikes and can't come to a conclusion.
Bike One: Raleigh RX 2.0 - Raleigh Bicycles - RX 2.0
Bike Two: Trek Crossrip LTD - CrossRip LTD - Trek Bicycle
Thank you!
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Everything else being equal, I'd opt for the Raleigh as I think the paint job is sharper. The parts group is a little nicer too. But the geometry of the 2 bikes aren't really the same. The Raleigh is more of a CX bike; the trek more of a commuter/road warrior. You need to ride them to see whether that geometry difference matters; also what do you intend to use the bike for?
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Thanks for the reply! My LBS mentioned the geometry difference between the two, but indicated that they could adjust it to work either way. I intend to use the bike mainly on the paved rail trail. I would be covering a minimum of 20-30 miles a day on the ride.
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They're around the same price, right? I'd get the Raleigh then and have the LBS fit it for you.
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I agree the Raleigh looks like a better deal.
However, as food for thought, I would personally look at similarly equipped bikes with rim brakes... which would save money, and shed unnecessary weight and complexity.
Don't get me wrong, I have been intrigued by disk brakes for many years, but recently decided that I am unlikely to ever buy a bike with disk brakes unless I develop a desire to ride in mud, or regularly ride in the rain.
Just for background, I ride a Trek 7.3 FX on rail trails with gravel and crushed stone (with rare short sandy sections) for up to 35 miles, and I have never had the need for disk brakes to stop my 300+ pounds of body, bike and the trunk bag full of stuff I carry. I usually ride in dry weather, but even so, I have been caught in the rain several times. Next year, when I move to drop bars (less gut in my way) I will be riding my vintage touring bike with modern 105 components and cantilever brakes.
However, as food for thought, I would personally look at similarly equipped bikes with rim brakes... which would save money, and shed unnecessary weight and complexity.
Don't get me wrong, I have been intrigued by disk brakes for many years, but recently decided that I am unlikely to ever buy a bike with disk brakes unless I develop a desire to ride in mud, or regularly ride in the rain.
Just for background, I ride a Trek 7.3 FX on rail trails with gravel and crushed stone (with rare short sandy sections) for up to 35 miles, and I have never had the need for disk brakes to stop my 300+ pounds of body, bike and the trunk bag full of stuff I carry. I usually ride in dry weather, but even so, I have been caught in the rain several times. Next year, when I move to drop bars (less gut in my way) I will be riding my vintage touring bike with modern 105 components and cantilever brakes.
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People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
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Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
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I went with RX as I like the 105 11 spd and trp brakes specs vs the trek crossrip 10 spd. I swap the tires to 700x35 clement ush 60tpi as I plan do rail trails and road riding. Also this will be my first road bike.
Last edited by BigC_82; 11-27-14 at 12:56 AM.
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Hello,
I have the CrossRip LTD and like it. It's a little heavier than performance aluminum. But that's okay. I was looking for a utility bike of sorts. I chose it over other choices because it has low-boy fork mounts in addition to rack and fender mounts. It also has a 50/34 compact crank instead of the 36/46 of a CX bike. I like the wider step in the front chainrings. That's small potatoes, though.
One word of caution: The CrossRip top tube runs LONG. I ride a 58-cm in my road bikes. But I got the CrossRip in 56cm. The bike fit fine in the shop and felt fine on "shorter" rides of 80 miles or less. However, I encountered sharp back pain on a couple of longer rides. I remeasured everything and learned that the top tube was still 1-cm longer than my other bikes. The 54-cm frame has the same top tube length as my 58-cm road bikes. However, the head tubes are shorter. I had to perform some voodoo to shorten the stem to compensate without losing the handlebar height I prefer.
Good Luck,
Scott
I have the CrossRip LTD and like it. It's a little heavier than performance aluminum. But that's okay. I was looking for a utility bike of sorts. I chose it over other choices because it has low-boy fork mounts in addition to rack and fender mounts. It also has a 50/34 compact crank instead of the 36/46 of a CX bike. I like the wider step in the front chainrings. That's small potatoes, though.
One word of caution: The CrossRip top tube runs LONG. I ride a 58-cm in my road bikes. But I got the CrossRip in 56cm. The bike fit fine in the shop and felt fine on "shorter" rides of 80 miles or less. However, I encountered sharp back pain on a couple of longer rides. I remeasured everything and learned that the top tube was still 1-cm longer than my other bikes. The 54-cm frame has the same top tube length as my 58-cm road bikes. However, the head tubes are shorter. I had to perform some voodoo to shorten the stem to compensate without losing the handlebar height I prefer.
Good Luck,
Scott
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I have the 2014 Trek CrossRip, but I bought the low end model and moved my old Ultegra parts from another bike I did not ride, so basically, I have the LTD+. Love the ride of the bike and use it as my commuter\nasty weather bike. Confirm the top tube runs long. My normal frame size is 54, but I went with a 52 and it came with a 70mm stem, but it fit me perfectly. I also upgrade my brakes from the BB5 to the Spyres an love them, so either bike will give you great braking. I also put in a carbon post to really eliminate most of the aluminum road buzz.