Tesgin

So, I'm looking at spending a week or two exploring the west shore of MI this July (2018). Never been there. Sounds beautiful.

I'm looking at probably taking the ferry from Milwaukee to Muskegon as my start. When I have more time I'd like to do the full loop thru Mackinaw City, to the UP and back down to GB. This trip will be a little shorter, but I'd still like to get in several hundred miles.

I've heard that rather than just going straight N out of Muskegon, it's probably worth jutting S to Holland or something similar. Then going N.

So, loosely at this point, I'm thinking:

Day 1: Overnight in Holland
Day 2: Bike to Muskegon (35 mi); overnight there (much to do?)
Day 3: Bike to Ludington (61 mi, by way of via Hart Montague Bicycle Trail State Park); overnight, maybe two nights?
Day 4: Bike to Empire (83 mi); seems like a quaint town with lots to do and see?
Day 5: Bike to Traverse City (< 30 mi).

I'd love any suggestions, comments, different recommendations.

Are there any other places between Ludington and Empire that might be worth an overnight? Elberta? I'd love cutting the day 4 mileage down a bit.

Rather than going directly from Empire to Traverse City, should I jut up to Sutton Bay? I guess there are a couple of trails between Sutton Bay and Traverse City; are they paved? Are they recommended? It looks from the map like that could be quite scenic.

That's about as much time as I'll have. Probably going to plan another trip and go all the way to Mackinac Island; OR, I could cut off the Holland piece, and just go N from Muskegon, which would allow me enough time to get to Mackinac.

I am only interested in road riding: paved surfaces mainly, but good surface crushed rail-trail kind of thing would be fine.

Would REALLY appreciate any suggestions, and comments on the roads and routes.

Thanks in advance,
Tesgin

no motor?

We went to Sleeping Bear Dunes for vacation many years ago and loved it. It's probably too far north for your trip, but the smaller towns/roads should make for good scenery.

prathmann

Actually it's essentially on his planned route. The visitor center is in Empire and it would be easy to ride through the park on the way to Traverse City on the fifth day.

chas58

It’s a nice ride!
Pentwater
Tunnel of Trees (north of *)
Silver lake sand dunes and light house
Traverse city peninsula (out and back) Best part of the ride!
I ate about a quart of cherries every day – usually just leave $$$ in a jar at a road side stand (Late July)

I overnighted in
Montague
Ludington
Frankfort
Charlevoix
Harbor springs
Traverse city

I had to bypass sleeping bear dunes due to some insane storms that made the roads around there impassible.


Here is my route:
https://www.strava.com/routes/11948956

Optional - pinky traverse: https://www.strava.com/routes/2271560

no motor?

That's great! I didn't think it was that close. My exwife's parent have a place in Door County WI on Lake Michigan, and we used to look east and wonder what was on the other side of the lake. Sleeping Bear dunes seemed like the place to go to find that out, and it was a great vacation. That was over 20 years ago though, and I hope the small town charm is still there. I rode a motorcycle during those years (but not on this trip) and the roads around there would have been great for that.

Tesgin

This is excellent. Much appreciated.

So, thoughts ...

chas50, were you happy with the route you took to Frankfort? There's also the Betsie Valley Trailway, which is spoken well of; however that adds another 20 mi to that leg (≈82 mi instead of 60-ish on the route you took). Plus, that looks like it's all inland. I would think your route to be more scenic (you hit several lakes, rode along the shoreline, etc.). I'd love your thoughts.

Also, were you happy with Frankfort as a stop? I've heard Empire is quite a quaint little town. That, again, would be an 80 mile jaunt that day instead of 60. I'm looking, though, at heading up that way to hit the Sleeping Bear Dunes.

Again, i relish your recommendations.

Thanks all, in advance. This is so helpful.

TB

Tesgin

Oh, and another question...

In that Ludington to Traverse City stretch, there are a lot of possibilities for an intermediate stop, an overnight: Frankfort/Elberta, Empire, Glen Arbor. Any suggestions as to which would get your vote for the town to overnight?

I'm not a real tourist-trap kind of guy, but quaint, tasteful shops, not too busy. Scenic. You get the idea.

Thoughts?

TB

no motor?

I think we stayed in Glen Arbor, but it's been about 25 years and I sure things have changed since then. But what I do remember fits your description. The area wasn't big enough for the huge developers to come in like they've done in Door County, and the local businesses were all owned and operated by members of the community - you had local food made by people who could walk (or bicycle) to work, ma and pa motels (the one we stayed in had 4 rooms) etc... not a McDonalds in site.

Another thing I remember was paying with cash. The people that owned most of the businesses in the area didn't like dealing with credit cards, and you could go to the grocery store and get cash there instead of going to a bank or ATM. They didn't charge anything to advance the money, and customers were happy with the arrangement.

oddjob2

Ah, another person succumbing to those Pure Michigan ads! The state actually looks better than the TV ads.

If you want the best combination of natural beauty, interesting tourism site, and cool towns, I would say head north immediately. The Leelenau Peninsula and Traverse City area have a lot to offer.

+1 to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Glen Arbor for an Airbnb.
Many quality vineyards to visit around Leelanau.
Do the M22 ride up to Northport. Visit Leland along the way.
Back down to TC via Suttons Bay.
Take in a show at Interlochen National Music Camp.

Jump on the Pure Michigan site and ask questions here.

Not much to do in Empire unless you want to fish.
Skip Holland.

cb400bill

I concur.

Tesgin

Really? Interesting. All the "best towns in Michigan" sites rate the sites S of Muskegon as the highest. Surprising.


I'm guessing maybe it's cuz those towns are more about lounging on the beaches than sightseeing?

TB

oddjob2

That’s cause the competition is really weak, but for Saugatuck or if you want to fish from Ludington.

If your a bus tour operator for senior citizens, then maybe you'd like Holland.
https://www.holland.org/attractions

chas58

Well, if your are a tourist trap kind of guy. ;-)

They are good if you are the B&B type, and like beach and tourist amenities. North of that are more down to earth and less commercial/Starbucks like - well, until you get to Traverse city....

chas58

Frankfort was fine. There is nothing much in Empire (its about 1 block long).

Trailway or no - that is kind of a personal decision. The trailways are nice enough, no traffic, straight and kinda boring (which can be nice sometimes)

The route heading north going into Frankfurt is mostly on the side of a 2 lane highway. Nothing too special, although the biggest climbs on my week were there (with nice enough views of the lake at the turnout). I did find a nice fresh water spring just outside of Onekama (good for the hills coming up)

I took betsy valley out north (heading east) out of Frankfort - it was a nice route, yes

overnights near TC - Glen arbor is small and cute - Frankfort more like a normal town. if you go to Glenn Arbor - have a bite to eat at Art's Tavern. I was surprised at the quality of food there (yeah, now that its mentioned - I do think it was cash only).

PedalTraveler

I might be biased being on Mackinac myself, but I suggest finding a way to make it all the way, the north western state trail (formerly Petoskey to Mackinac Trail) would cover a good deal of the rest of that ride and get you through some scenic country and out of traffic, we get a good amount of touring people ending their ride here on the island who say they enjoy the Traverse to Mackinac leg of their trip the most.

dannwilliams

I was just starting my planning of a June trip, too! I would drive from my home near the twin cities of Minneapolis/St. Paul (River Falls, WI) to Manitowoc and take the ferry across the lake. Then ride up and over through the UP back to the car in Manitiwoc. It would be tight to get it done in a week, not much room for contingencies, but doable. What a wealth of knowledge so far! I'll be following this thread.

oddjob2

Good of you to check in PT. Are you on Mackinac year round?

oddjob2

Do not skip Petoskey nor Harbor Springs on your way to the UP. Walloon Lake is worth a look too, but Charlevoix doesn't float my boat, no pun intended. The M-119 road out to Good Hart is epic. Winding, forested, views of Grand Traverse Bay, nice homes, and 30mph traffic.


Also, FYI, the mighty bridge is too narrow.
MDOT - How can my bicycle group get across the Mackinac Bridge?

chas58

Yes, M119 and tunnel of trees is probably the best (paved) road in the lower Peninsula. Not to be missed.

Good link on the bridge. I've ridden across it (on the rare occasion there is an event). Center 2 lanes are open metal grating- kinda weird to look straight down to the water hundreds of feet below definitely not bike friendly on those lanes.

brian416

Empire a good place to stop, food, ice cream and a nice beach in town there.

From frankfort, I'd recommend riding M22 up to Empire then, riding into Leelanau County to get back to TC. As long as you avoid M72, M115, US31, the roads are all good up here. Strava global heatmaps is a good way to see what routes/roads alot of riders up here use.

I would recommend not using this route from Beulah to TC. It's safe, but not very scenic.
https://www.strava.com/routes/11948956

chas58

Agreed. Again, I had to bypass Empire and the sleeping bear dunes on that ride (that is my actual route) because a seriously insane storm had closed all roads around Empire. Empire was originally on the route, but not an option at the time (besides, I really love stopping by Lake Ann for lunch and snacks when biking that area, and cheescake/beer/bread/coffee/chocolate at the insane aslyum (Grand Traverse Commons on the west side of town) is an option I can't easily miss). But the linked Pinkey Traverse gives an optional scenic long way from Empire to TC.

Definitely some good options on the heatmaps.

BlazingPedals

If you're up for a supported tent-camping trip, Shoreline West is in early August. Shoreline West runs from Montague (just north of Muskegon) to Mackinaw City. And once you're at the straits, I really recommend buying a ferry ticket for you and your bike, and crossing to Mackinaw Island for an afternoon.
LMB Bicycle Tours - Shoreline West Bicycle Tour

khyricat

Walloon is part of my regular ritual.. one of my goals sometime soon is to have my trike up there and ride from DD's in Boyne City to Harbor Springs- that area is gorgeous... we normally stay at a nice place thats a Boyne City address but its really more Walloon... it has its own trails- not bike friendly, but a lot of bikers stay and cut over to the bike trails from there easily enough

dannwilliams

Picked up a new Salsa Marrakesh this week (https://salsacycles.com/bikes/marrak...deore_drop_bar). I'll need some panniers before summer, too. I sold the old Surly with the bags a couple years ago, starting anew this year. I have a couple sections of the ACA maps that cover most of this area. Looking forward to the trip!

PedalTraveler

Thanks, I don't get on the forums as much anymore but for lurking once in a while, though I'm trying to start getting involved in bikes for fun again instead of just work. I don't usually stay on the island in the winter but I did this year, it has been a nice change.