Official Trek FX Thread
#2151
Vegan on a bicycle
#2152
Newbie
Well I got further with my 2020 Trek FX3 improvements...
I replaced the crankset with the M4100-2 to get the lower gear ratios. Had to shorten the chain for this, but no big deal. I haven't had a chance to ride this yet as we still have a ton of snow on the ground, but the weather has warmed up and I'm hoping in a week or so it'll be better.
So in looking at the rear shifting and why it appeared sluggish, I did get the Alivio M31000-R shifter. Someone else here in this thread mentioned it was snappier than the Acera, and I'd have to agree. But I also think I found the source of the issue I was having. The old shifter cables, as they went down below the bottom bracket cable guide, Trek had placed a short piece of inner housing liner, like 6" long or so. Anyway that liner was torn and was kind of jammed in there constricting the cable. I'm not entirely certain what the point of this was, I don't think it's needed. Anyway, after having done that I decided to just go ahead and also get the Alivio M3100-L shifter. That's a single lever shifter, also works really well.
I then looked at the front derailleur and wondered if I should upgrade that, but this is where my research gets weird. The current generation MTB like Alivio and Deore front derailleurs are side pull, which means the cable has to come from the front rather than the bottom. That's not how the cables route on the FX, so that was out. I looked at some older stock shifters, but eventually decided to just keep what I had. I had to lower it and realign everything and I got it working.
I went through the process of readjusting everything on the rear derailleur and it seems to be working really well right now. I'll have to check it again after riding it as the cable will likely loosen up a bit. But I want that snow gone.
I replaced the crankset with the M4100-2 to get the lower gear ratios. Had to shorten the chain for this, but no big deal. I haven't had a chance to ride this yet as we still have a ton of snow on the ground, but the weather has warmed up and I'm hoping in a week or so it'll be better.
So in looking at the rear shifting and why it appeared sluggish, I did get the Alivio M31000-R shifter. Someone else here in this thread mentioned it was snappier than the Acera, and I'd have to agree. But I also think I found the source of the issue I was having. The old shifter cables, as they went down below the bottom bracket cable guide, Trek had placed a short piece of inner housing liner, like 6" long or so. Anyway that liner was torn and was kind of jammed in there constricting the cable. I'm not entirely certain what the point of this was, I don't think it's needed. Anyway, after having done that I decided to just go ahead and also get the Alivio M3100-L shifter. That's a single lever shifter, also works really well.
I then looked at the front derailleur and wondered if I should upgrade that, but this is where my research gets weird. The current generation MTB like Alivio and Deore front derailleurs are side pull, which means the cable has to come from the front rather than the bottom. That's not how the cables route on the FX, so that was out. I looked at some older stock shifters, but eventually decided to just keep what I had. I had to lower it and realign everything and I got it working.
I went through the process of readjusting everything on the rear derailleur and it seems to be working really well right now. I'll have to check it again after riding it as the cable will likely loosen up a bit. But I want that snow gone.
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#2153
Senior Member
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I then looked at the front derailleur and wondered if I should upgrade that, but this is where my research gets weird. The current generation MTB like Alivio and Deore front derailleurs are side pull, which means the cable has to come from the front rather than the bottom. That's not how the cables route on the FX, so that was out. I looked at some older stock shifters, but eventually decided to just keep what I had. I had to lower it and realign everything and I got it working.
#2154
Newbie
I don't think you'd really gain anything by changing the front derailleur. You're right that you'd need a down-pull derailleur (or at least a dual-pull, capable of either top-pull or down-pull), but there really isn't much to the front derailleurs -- they're just a brute force mechanism to force the chain to certain chain rings. If you can get your current setup tuned so that you don't have much, if any, chain rub on the derailleur cage, then you're doing well and I'd leave it as-is.
I'm still curious why they had that liner in there. There was also one on the front shifter cable too, and it had also split, but hadn't torn and gummed it up.
#2155
Newbie
If it were that easy...
The big thing I'm looking for that's not fashionable on current off-the-shelf bikes is a 3x10 drive-train, with 40-30-22 crankset and 11-42 cassette. This gives me a gear ratio (from lowest gear to highest gear) of almost 700%, which lets me keep a comfortable cadence up and down hills, with or without panniers full of groceries. From a walking speed to +50kph, I can maintain a comfortable spinning cadence. Also, I like 170mm crank-arms, which I'm not going to find standard on any large-frame bikes.
The big thing I'm looking for that's not fashionable on current off-the-shelf bikes is a 3x10 drive-train, with 40-30-22 crankset and 11-42 cassette. This gives me a gear ratio (from lowest gear to highest gear) of almost 700%, which lets me keep a comfortable cadence up and down hills, with or without panniers full of groceries. From a walking speed to +50kph, I can maintain a comfortable spinning cadence. Also, I like 170mm crank-arms, which I'm not going to find standard on any large-frame bikes.
Any of the Trek FX2 going back many years would work, if you can find the right bike. But they had alloy front forks with rack mounts.
#2156
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What's under the bottom bracket now that the liner is removed? Does it have a plastic cable guide that screws to the bottom of that housing? If so, you should be fine -- I presume they added a small section of liner for even smoother action, but that apparently aged poorly. Many bikes don't have the liner (they just have the plastic guide).
#2157
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Noticed the specs on the Trek FX 3 Disc had the Acera M3000's. Always thought those were same or at least very similar to the Alivio M3000's, so interesting to hear it does have a different feel to em.
#2158
Newbie
I remember a few years ago I did purchase Alvio M4000 shifters to replace the Acera M390's I had on my prior Specialize Crosstrail. I did notice a difference in the tactile feel, partly due to the better shifter and partly due to the Acera was kind of worn out already after a few years usage. Also remember liking that I could up shift 3 gears at time over single at a time on the Acera.
Noticed the specs on the Trek FX 3 Disc had the Acera M3000's. Always thought those were same or at least very similar to the Alivio M3000's, so interesting to hear it does have a different feel to em.
Noticed the specs on the Trek FX 3 Disc had the Acera M3000's. Always thought those were same or at least very similar to the Alivio M3000's, so interesting to hear it does have a different feel to em.
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#2159
Vegan on a bicycle
(42-11) + (40-22) = 49T... I don't know if there are any rear derailleurs that can manage that. Looking at the specs they are like 45T capacity and max of 36 in the rear if running a triple. At that point, I'm not sure what 10 speed would gain you over classic 9 speed, you'd just lose that one gear, but 22/36 is still pretty good ratio. 9 speed stuff is extremely common, utterly compatible and bullet proof. That'd still give you quite a range. So anything new or used with 8/9 speed rear hub could be made to work.
Any of the Trek FX2 going back many years would work, if you can find the right bike. But they had alloy front forks with rack mounts.
Any of the Trek FX2 going back many years would work, if you can find the right bike. But they had alloy front forks with rack mounts.
If I could find a 3x9 crankset with a 20 or 22T low gear, I'd consider that, but the closest thing I could find was a 3x10 crankset. And I'm happy with how the 3x10 is working out on the other bike, so it'll be nice to be able to have spare parts that can fit two bikes.
Not a good idea to cross-chain it, but it's never a good idea to cross-chain, anyway. So maybe the caveat is that it works fine, when the gears are being shifted properly.
Last edited by smasha; 03-28-23 at 10:06 AM.
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#2160
LR÷P=HR
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NBD for wifey
Wife had a NBD today.
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
Barry
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
Barry
#2161
Newbie
Wife had a NBD today.
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
Barry
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
Barry
#2162
Newbie
Wife had a NBD today.
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
Trek FX 4
But what were Trek thinking when they stripped all the good Shimano stuff off the current FX4 ???
No more Shimano brakes, no GRX RD & Crankset. And what's with ditching Thru-axles for thru-skewers (whatever those are) ?
I did manage to find local shop that still had the prior model, and I grabbed that one.
Now to see if she'll let me install the Reserve 34/37 carbon wheels that came with my R5 on the Trek.
That'll lighten it up a bit more.
And I really don't understand the Promax brakes though. The FX3 is spec'ed with MT201, and the FX5 has MT201... why use something different on the FX4 that is basically the same cost?
As for the Thruskew... yeah, I don't understand the thinking. I presume it was a way to get around adding "lawyer lips" to the fork. I actually prefer the old style QR though as it's a lot easier to use. Really not sure what value this adds, but thankfully I don't remove my front wheel that often.
#2163
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If I'd been unable to find one with this spec, I'd be looking for a completely different bike.
Who wants a light weight carbon framed bike with cut-price components.... Nope
it makes no sense as a consumer, obviously the manu saves money, but they would not get my dollars for it.
Barry