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Thread for Specialized Sirrus

Old 09-19-17, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Sirrus17
Nice wheels too!
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Old 09-19-17, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sirrus17
Don't mind the goofy seat, it was either that or no riding for life after my reconstructive surgeries to the perineum.

https://

Great looking setup.


I'm keen to know more about your saddle and the saddle rails, as I am someone who has had issues with perineum pain whilst riding.
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Old 09-20-17, 04:37 PM
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The saddle is made through Spiderflex, the rails are molded in the rains and super easy to install/adjust. the width is awesome which i believe is over 200mm so definitely not ur average width.

But it is super comfortable and no pressure/contact with the perineum whatsoever. I rode for 30 miles the first time i had it installed.

Ive been cycling for years and also do long distance rides so i was surprised i didn't really notice the pain/damage the regular saddle was causing to my perineum until one day i was rushed to the E.R and had to have a catheter installed through my abdomen to drain my bladder. 1 year of 2 catheters installed through 2 reconstructive surgeries.
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Old 09-22-17, 02:50 PM
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Considering a Sirrus Pro Carbon 2018.


A few things I cant find in the specs...


Is the stack in the geometry specs frame only so that there is 3cm future shock above that ?


Does it come with spacers also ?




Thanks
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Old 09-22-17, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Joska_DK
Considering a Sirrus Pro Carbon 2018.


A few things I cant find in the specs...


Is the stack in the geometry specs frame only so that there is 3cm future shock above that ?


Does it come with spacers also ?




Thanks
I'm pretty sure that Specialized always measures frame stack and reach, so stack for the Sirrus should be vertical from b/b to top of head tube (intersection with top tube). The added stack from the future shock would be on top of that measurement.

The assembly looks the same as that on e.g. a Roubaix, so no spacers other than what is created by that top cap assembly. I don't know if there is any way of increasing or lowering that additional stack height; I'd be surprised given 20mm travel. So I think fine-tuning position would have to come through stem angle and/or bar rise. That's why Spec now produces the 'hover' bar - basically a drop bar with rise.

Best to check all this, though, with a good Specialized dealer.
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Old 09-22-17, 04:35 PM
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Thx Badger

Haven't seen the 2018 version yet in a shop around here.

I'm going to ask about selecting the right size in the fitting forum.
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Old 09-22-17, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Joska_DK
Thx Badger

Haven't seen the 2018 version yet in a shop around here.

I'm going to ask about selecting the right size in the fitting forum.
They've not shown up here (Canada) yet either, though later in the Fall apparently. I'm considering the Expert one -- new bike as replacement for my '10 Sirrus Comp.

They are great flat-bar road bikes. I'm pretty familiar with Specialized's flat bar geometry, so if you want some input re. sizing, fire away right on here!
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Old 09-22-17, 06:46 PM
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Ok, here we go then..


I am in the 50+ category needing the bar quite high, about level with the saddle.
I have another bike with a speedlifter and by moving that up/down and also trying different stems I know now what position I want, problem is selecting the best frame size to achieve that ;-).


BB up to handlebar is 73 cm and BB forward to handlebar is 48cm.
Old bike: Stack = 58 cm, Reach = 41.
Position on that bike is achieved with the speedlifter 9.5cm up and then a 11cm 7deg stem.


Other stats : 183 tall and inseam 85.5, always used the Lemond formula so BB to saddle is 75.5 cm


Question is then, which Sirrus size is right L or XL ?


Size L: Stack=63cm (60 + 3 for future shock) and reach 40cm, so it needs to go up 10cm and forward 8cm.


About 12cm 30 deg stem ?


Or maybe a 5cm steerer extender and then a 11cm 7deg stem, although that would be heavier.


A riser bar could help make it look less crazy, but I prefer to cut the bar down to ca 54 cm and that might not leave enough room for the grips and brakes/shifter due to the rise in the middle.


It is tempting to go for size XL with 64 cm stack, but because it is also longer and steeper I am worried that it will result in too short a stem making steering too fast.


Size XL: Stack=67, Reach 41,4, so it needs to go up 6cm and forward 6.6cm.


About 9cm 22deg stem ?


Have I got these calculations right ?
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Old 09-22-17, 07:52 PM
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The calculations are a little befuddling this late (!), but I would point out one variable: in calculating effective stack you are adding 3 cms to the measured frame stack.

I think in fact you should be thinking top of head tube to stem cap for that additional height from b/b? That would be about 7+cms, not 3 cms.

Putting it another way, the effective stacks (b/b to stem cap) as a starting point are 67 or so (very roughly) on the L, and 74 or so (very roughly) on the XL. Even on the L, something like a +15 or +16 degree stem on top of the rise caused by the h/t angle is going to get your bars level with your saddle assuming a 75cm saddle height -- I think. Could be wrong! With the XL, on the other hand, you've got that significant increase in reach coming into play; you'd really want to try both before committing?
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Old 09-23-17, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by badger1
The calculations are a little befuddling this late (!), but I would point out one variable: in calculating effective stack you are adding 3 cms to the measured frame stack.

I think in fact you should be thinking top of head tube to stem cap for that additional height from b/b? That would be about 7+cms, not 3 cms.
Putting it another way, the effective stacks (b/b to stem cap) as a starting point are 67 or so (very roughly) on the L, and 74 or so (very roughly) on the XL. Even on the L, something like a +15 or +16 degree stem on top of the rise caused by the h/t angle is going to get your bars level with your saddle assuming a 75cm saddle height -- I think. Could be wrong! With the XL, on the other hand, you've got that significant increase in reach coming into play; you'd really want to try both before committing?
You are right, my goal is to get top of handle bar level with saddle so it should be top of stem.
Another bug is that one can't just add the spacers, or in this case the future shock, to the frame stack because it is extending the head tube which has an angle and this will affect reach.

So if I take size L and add 7cm with an angle of 71.5 I end up with a need to go 6 cm up and 10 forward. That is something like a 12 cm 13 deg stem.

For size XL I get 2cm up and 8.5 forward. A 9cm 0 deg stem.

We all get older and if anything that will require shorter reach and that rules out size XL for me I think because I don't want a short stem.
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Old 09-30-17, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CC driver
Thanks for the feedback and well wishes. The LBS is replacing the crank and BB (both FSA components) with a Shimano Sora crank and compatible Shimano BB. Parts and labor are being charged off as warranty, so no cost to me. They didn't have the crank in stock but committed to obtaining one quickly and to have the bike ready by next Wednesday or Thursday. Naturally, my hope is this will solve the problem. If it doesn't, then we'll just have to cross that bridge when we come to it.

The bike already has Sora derailleurs and cassette, so in theory, completing the drive train with a Sora front end should work well. There are two slight differences between the FSA and Sora cranks. The chainrings on the FSA are 48/32, while the Sora crank is 50/34. The other difference is the length of the crank arm on the Sora is about 2mm longer. Would there be a noticeable difference in having two extra teeth on this bike? There are other hybrid bikes that come with a 50/34 crank, like the Felt Verza, so perhaps it's an either or situation?
UPDATE: Although it took a week longer than the time frame provided by the LBS, the BB and crank were replaced and the drivetrain now works flawlessly. I've put about 50 miles on the bike since picking it up and it is a pleasure to ride! Glad to now be a happy Sirrus owner.
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Old 10-03-17, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by CC driver
UPDATE: Although it took a week longer than the time frame provided by the LBS, the BB and crank were replaced and the drivetrain now works flawlessly. I've put about 50 miles on the bike since picking it up and it is a pleasure to ride! Glad to now be a happy Sirrus owner.

Your bike looks great.


Glad to hear everything got sorted out.
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Old 10-13-17, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jacbo123
hi, does anyone have a clue as to when the 2018 line of sirrus comes out? looking at the 2017 expert carbon x1 but thinking it'll go on sale once the 2018 line is released.


another question, how much better would everyone say a carbon bike is compared to aluminium? I test rode a carbon sirrus at my lbs and couldn't believe how much I liked the bike, but couldn't tell if it was some kind of new bike placebo effect
if you going carbon and can afford it make sure you get one with future shock so 1750 plus.
I wouldn't advise a 2018 alloy. my specialized forum post quoted below explains my feelings on the matter.


So I just got a 2017 Sirrus elite
I spent some time looking around and I was going to get the 2018 version Even local bike stores advised the new bikes where awesome and they did indeed look it.
But I like to do my research and I spotted a few things , after some emails and research I explain why if you buying an alloy sirrus the 2018 range is a downgrade from 2017.
Firstly yes I know most of the 2017 came with sora and they put tiagra on one of the models this year but lets ignore that considering they now using tektro brakes over shimano.
Anyway All the 2018 range are A1 SL frames. this is the super light version of the A1 frame which is their basic alloy.
this was explained on a specialized help desk post which has recently this week been removed off the web ( might just be down but you never know )

this was the post:

What are the differences between A1, M4, E5, and M5 aluminium?
Last Updated: Oct 31, 2013 11:01AM PDT
A1 alloy is our workhorse 6061 frame material, employed extensively since 1995. The advantage of this material is the high level of control our engineers have over the production process. Minute differences in alloy mixture, tube dimensions, and heat treating are applied to specific areas of the bike. This allows advanced tube shaping at more attainable price points for added compliance and lighter weight.

M4 alloy is the mountain version of E5; it uses the same allow with different tube shaping and butting profiles to handle the more extreme loads of mountain application. Approximately 30% stronger than A1 alloy, the additional strength means less material can be used for significant weight savings.

M5 alloy is a complex mixture of the best alloys for a specific job and is a higher-grade 6000-series alloy. When building an M5 tubeset, the most appropriate alloy is used for each section of the bike to balance strength and weight requirements. For example, a mountain bike down tube supports a tremendous amount of load during its life, so a very strong and fatigue-resistant alloy is optimal for this application. On the other hand, the top tube carries a relatively small load, so a lighter alloy can be used in this area.

E5 alloy is a proprietary alloy which allows our engineers unmatched freedom to manipulate the inner and outer shapes of the tubing. However, the biggest advantage of the E5 is it's weld-recovery properties. Aluminium in any form does not like to be heated and cooled much. What makes E5 special is the phenomenal strength it possesses at the joint after welding. Under normal conditions bikes don't fail in the middle of a tube unless they are engineered poorly, so this stronger joint means overall frame strength can be improved with less material.

In summary:

A1
gets the job done well; function is the focus
6000-series alloy
entry level
allows for butting of tubes and can be manipulated as needed
M4
takes ordinary to the extraordinary!
higher-grade 6000-series alloy
15% higher tensile strength than A1
allows more aggressive tube shaping and butting
better weight and ride quality
M5/E5
Now you've reached amazing!
custom-blend alloy
15% higher tensile-strength than M4
most aggressive butting
best weight and ride quality


So getting back on track:
The helpdesk also confirmed in an email that the e5 alloy found on 2017 higher models is lighter than the A1 SL frmaes the whole alloy 2108 range have.

So for starters a 2017 frame from a 850 bike is better than a 900 2018 frame.
Now another observation is Specialized have removed zertz inserts from all their carbon fork and carbon frame ranges( at least it seems that way)
the reason given in an email is because they rolling out their new comfort/suspension system called future shock . it basically a spring in the stem designed to cancel out some bumps and buzz without loosing power/drive like you do with standard suspension.

This is all good and a great improvement it seems over zerts until you realise that non of the alloy range 2018 have either zertz or future shock. in fact its only in the high end carbon frames 1300 plus type.
so its possible the 2018 has less ability to cancel or reduce out road buzz/vibrations.
I will quote specialized reply in my email regarding this "We developed the Futureshock which does more active job of smoothing out the ride. We discontinued zertz through the complete line to continue the aesthetic. "

Basically they saying "we got a great new system but its only on the really expensive bikes and to save money we not bothering to add anything on the lower priced bikes."
Also got told they don't sell bikes online ,although they do in UK via concept stores ( I know they are affiliates but still closer to specialized than someone like wiggle)
Don't get me wrong the 2018 models do look at first glance awesome, but on closer inspection all is not what it seems unless you have a few grand to spare.
Its also rather suspicious that the post explaining different aluminium types vanishes when I question it with specialized
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Old 10-15-17, 11:22 PM
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My 2015 Cirrus Expert upgraded well beyond Pro is for sale. Never ridden beyond 3 fitment rides. Details here:

2015 Specialized Sirrus Expert--lots o' mods
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Old 10-16-17, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by wired2thebrink
So I just got a 2017 Sirrus elite. I spent some time looking around and I was going to get the 2018 version Even local bike stores advised the new bikes where awesome and they did indeed look it. But I like to do my research and I spotted a few things , after some emails and research I explain why if you buying an alloy sirrus the 2018 range is a downgrade from 2017.
Wired2thebrink, having gone through the same careful approach this past summer before buying a 2017 Sirrus Elite, I happen to retain the list of components from the Specialized website. Below is a comparison of the components that changed from 2017 to 2018 for the Elite model. In my view, Specialized prioritized retaining the price point ($1000 msrp) for the Elite and tinkered with the components to meet their profit margin for that price point.
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Old 10-16-17, 07:48 PM
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Hi guys, need help buying a new sirrus(I'm in Canada) . I can get the 2017 expert for $2000+tax or the 2018 elite for 1800+tax...
The 2018 expert is out of my budget (unless I will find a way to buy it from the US...)
Any advice?
Thanks
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Old 10-18-17, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by disq
Hi! Owner of a new Sirrus Elite (2017) here, bought about 2 months or so ago. I had it fitted with fenders (P&P) and kickstand. (I love how the kickstand looks btw)

...
Update - Since then, I've:

- Removed fenders (rain season did not start here yet, I might put them back on for proper autumn/winter conditions)
- Switched to SPD with Candy3 pedals
- Switched to 25C Michelin Pro4 Service Course tires at 90-100 psi (Service Course because I could source them cheaper locally, also they're faster/lighter than the Endurance version)
- In the meantime, destroyed couple inner tubes learning how to put on a tire (answer: don't use levers) and patched another two
- Removed rattling park stand, put it back on with plenty of blue threadlock


Result: Bike dropped down to 27lb (12.4kg) and my times seem to have gotten better... Though now I have to be more careful about gravel and roadside hazards, instant slip with 25C's.
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Old 10-19-17, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Goldfr
Hi guys, need help buying a new sirrus(I'm in Canada) . I can get the 2017 expert for $2000+tax or the 2018 elite for 1800+tax...
The 2018 expert is out of my budget (unless I will find a way to buy it from the US...)
Any advice?
Thanks
Ordered the experts 2018.Problem solved
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Old 10-22-17, 05:52 PM
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18 Sirrus Pro Carbon came today & been very happy with it! Just amazed that the future shock on this came with 3 springs: soft, medium (which came installed) & stiff...whichever suits your riding comfort. Very well put together..👍🏼
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Old 10-23-17, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BikeMode
18 Sirrus Pro Carbon came today & been very happy with it! Just amazed that the future shock on this came with 3 springs: soft, medium (which came installed) & stiff...whichever suits your riding comfort. Very well put together..👍🏼
Great looking bike! Congrats.

I'm waiting on my lbs to put one together to try end of this week.
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Old 10-25-17, 10:19 AM
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I have one on order
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Old 11-04-17, 09:39 PM
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Today I joined the exclusive Sirrus Club. My new to me 2012 Sirrus Elite. Very chi-chi.
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Old 11-04-17, 10:03 PM
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Nice one, welcome!

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Old 11-04-17, 11:26 PM
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Congrats! Enjoy your new ride!
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Old 11-05-17, 11:10 AM
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nice ride,enjoy
be safe
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