here's my old '80s I think bought it second hand not aluminum, not carbon but old school steel yes I am also old
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...99b7151215.jpg
Mid '80s Sirrus (steel frame)
rides great

Nice vintage Sirrus. I have a 1990 steel Sirrus and a 2020 Sirrus 3.0. Vastly different but both are nice riding bikes.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a4230226f6.jpg

Hi guys wonder if you know if is possible to change my brakes to shimano m6100 with 180mm rotor on my Sirrus 4.0 2020.
Tks!!

Being that it is a post mount brake and you likely have flat mount not really without an adaptor and certainly no 180mm rotor. You can double check with Specialized but I don't think they accept 180mm rotors except on their MTB stuff.

Sirrus 1, 2, 3 are nice urban/hybrid bikes. I believe these current models come with this tire size:

• Diameter: ~27.5 inches
• Width: ~1.65 inches

Can this bike run a 27.5 x 2" tire for a bit of extra "cush"?

I probably wouldn't put much if any money towards a 1 or 2 but likely you can fit certain 2.0 tires I have 650bx50 tires on my Vado which is basically the electric version. However I would check with Specialized just to double confirm and note certain knobbier tires may not fit. I would get a Sirrus X 4.0 which will get you thru-axles so you have more wheel selection as most modern wheels for 650b are going to be thru-axle compatible plus you will get a much nicer bike more suitable for commuting and daily driving. Plus if you decide to upgrade down the road you could likely swap wheels with your new bike vs. the quick releases on the lower end models.

I place a lot of importance on tire selection. And, I am a big fan of comfort on a bike; maximizing speed capability is of lesser importance to me - hence my question about running 27.5 x 2.0" tires, these are very comfortable to ride on.

The Future Shock head system is something I would avoid, due to the ongoing maintenance requirements and unnecessary complexity. This is a deal killer for me. I would prefer to obtain a more comfortable ride through tire selection, rather than through a shock system built into the headset.

From all that I can see, for a hybrid bike, it looks like the Marin DSX 2 offers the best combination of features and sensible pricing. And the DSX can run 700cx50 tires, which I like.

Yes comfort on a bike is important and the FutureShock does make a big difference in that. From what I have seen from working at a Specialized dealer (well I guess two now) for 11 years is the FutureShock is pretty low maintenance. I don't think we have had to do much to them in the many we have sold over the years except maybe replace a few boots here and there and add a new collar for an old warranty recall they had but that wasn't a really big deal. However the reason to go for the 4 is way way way way less about the FS but quality of components and a much better fork and overall a more modern practical bike vs. just a bike based in lower cost.

The DSX 2 is not a bad bike either and having wider tire clearance is always great. I think wide tires do make a very big difference but having a carbon fork if you are doing an aluminum frame is also quite handy as well.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b370c4c136.jpg

Just picked up this 2021 Sirrus X 5.0 in XS, with 165mm Praxis Alba cranks and tubeless tires.

Coming from narrow tire road bikes and older hybrids, this one feels like it was designed in a different universe. The ride is silky-smooth in comparison.

Upgraded the saddle/post to an FSA CarbonPro post and a Selle Italia Kevlar Flite saddle.

Next upgrade would be a 660mm carbon handlebar to replace the original alloy.

So far, so good. This bike really works for me - light, agile, smooth ride, wide gearing.

2011 Sirrus (basic). My tourer rebuild/first build
 

Hello to all.
I was given the frame this tourer is based around by my friend Malcolm who owns and runs the local bike repair place. He was given it by a long term customer,who is also a mutual friend.
Another donating customer and mutual friend gave me the saddle and wheel rims.
I fell in love with the graceful swan necked top tube and just had to make something out of it.
As my other bike (a slightly too small for me '94 Raliegh M-trax 200 comp) is an mtb and I didn't fancy going pure road, a hybrid seemed the way to go.
The frame started off in gloss black with a thick white pinstripe style bracket round the Specialized logo/decal. Which all had to go.
I wanted an olive green powder coat but getting this done,cheaply,locally and easily proved problematic.
So,I had to remove the paint myself. Eschewing chemicals and lacking machinery,I did it by hand. After thirty plus hours of scraping and rubbing (Stanley blade,wet n dry,wire wool...) the bare aluminium emerged.
Some other components were treated to vapour honing,a less aggressive process than shot or sand blasting by a local one man band who does work on vintage motorbike parts.
The honing was too weak for the frame paint and the shot,although efficacious was too time consuming to be cost effective.
Components that were vapour honed all had finishes,blemishes or logos that needed removed.
There are green elements,to contrast the bare metal and remaining chrome finished parts,in both metal and fabric.
Not just a choice from all the many possible colours,it's dictated by a lifelong compulsion to wear only green clothes and shoes/boots/trainers (mostly olive and shades close to it) and have only green utility/everyday use items as much as possible (green personal stereo,mobile phone,rucksacks,sleeping bags,mag lite,propelling pencil,turntable cartridge....) I spray my stone chisels green,have green tape measures etc.
Anyway....
Starting from the front- 35mm Scwalbe Land Cruiser tyre.It has a green swatch on due to the rubber being an 'eco' compound,which is win,win for me. It's mounted on a formerly black Ambrosio rim,vapour honed so it now has a lovely matte silver grey,grainy finish. This contrasts nicely with the shiny stainless steel spokes and Novatec hub. All held on to the frame with a used Token,titanium quick release skewer,for a pop of green. The front rack ( a Jim Blackburn "Expedition" in aluminium ) got vapour honed to get cleaned up a bit. On trying to install it,it became apparent it wasn't going to fit.
Although all the bosses lined up,the girth of the fork tubes prevented fixing them together with the green bolts I had,as they were two short. So I made a linkage by removing two lozenge shaped sections from the brake block carrying bits from a pair of cheap scrap calliper brake arms,that were in one of Malcolms many part boxes.This closed the gap,securely fixing rack to frame and adding another two green bolts as additional accents.
The forks themselves are a 2016 Nishiki,which have been vapour honed,they were gloss black, but uckily it came off far more easily than the frame paint!
The v-brake arms are vintage Deore XT,which were way cheaper on ebay than usual,because they had been "over cleaned" in an ultrasonic bath. This had resulted in near complete removal of the logos and finish-ideal as it saved me getting them (two pairs) vapour honed. Fitted with XLC triple compound cartridge blocks-green,grey and black in white shoes-a nice match and well rated,which made their relative expensiveness worth it. Brake cables are Clarks silver braid "pre-lubed" housings,with green noodles and ferrules. The cable ends did have green tips bought for them,but then I found two part reusable ones by Firewire (silver finish only). Snipping off the closed end of the green ones,made cylinders I could slide further up,letting the cables keep their green bits and the Firewires. Same went for all the other cable ends.
The handlebars are vintage Scott a t-2's. I've not seen the like for many years and I like bar ends,so these all-in-ones were too good to resist! Their aluminium already had a nice matte finish,so no need to get those honed. A pair of Primo Griffin non-locking grips are mounted on them,finished with a pair of grey vintage Specialized bar plugs.I kept the shiny finish on the open hinge clamp brake levers ( I forget the brand ).
They concern me a bit, as they seriously lack stopping power,so urgently need replaced,but the curve of the bars demands fully openable clamp hinges.....Levers with these,in a silver finish I found hard to come by....
The shifters are 3x9's, vintage Deore-XT m750's with Clarks silver braid cables,green and Firwire add-ons. Also mounted is a Sustrans (uk cycle charity) branded anodised green bell, on the left and a green phone carrying clamp on the right. Stem is a used Ritchey lightweight aluminium mtb one,vapour honed to remove the busy logo graphic. This got put on upside down,but it still worked, and liked the look of it,so it stayed that way.
The headset came from Malcolms,new old stock with no name he could recall. Spacers similar,but used,apart from the green Dia-Compe ones I sourced. Topped these off with a green cap and contrasting stainless bolt.
So,now we're mid frame....
A green hollow tech bottom bracket bearing assembly by Aerozine.
Cranks and chainrings- Deore XT FC-M770 (22/32/44). The 44 I swapped out for aTruvative 48,it's black finish was left on to tie in with the tyres (no green or silver for those!) and the numerous hook n loop tabs on the frame bags. The front mech,from the bike shop parts library is a Deore XT FC- M772,which was dirt cheap due to all the crud n rust on it,especially the XT cut out bit (not very practical...)The very light pedals with sweet bearings (Token,no luck with the model) needed their edge plates removed,then vapour honed to remove the very worn black finish.Toe clips are new old (70's) stock "Rapides" by Ale,with green straps n buckles from my webbing spares drawer. (I am also a bit of a military surplus nut).
Other than the paint strip,all the frame needed was a new internal cable housing grommet and a cable guide plate.
The frame bags,made by a Scottish company called Wee-Cog,I had already and were taken off a bike I bought,but then sold to make way for this one. Luckily they all fit,after a few strap trims.
Seat post- a Raliegh RSP, vapour honed to remove the logo, the saddle is a fizik "Vitesse-Tri" gifted to me,whose long riding day comfort level has yet to be tested.
Back wheel - same Schwalbe Land Cruisers,32 hole Ambrosio rims,stainless spokes,with a Condor Cycles / Miche,-Primato "Supremacy" hub and green Token titanium quick release skewer.
The drive train continues with a Shimano 9 speed cassette and a green cassette lock ring by Air-Bike. A Deore-XT M-770 rear mech is held on with a green hanger and mech bolt by Bike-Aider on ebay.
These carry a KMC SM10 SL (Super Light) aluminium chain.
A matching rear rack (vintage Jim Blackburn,vapour honed aluminium) carries a pair of 70's olve green Karrimor panniers,with contrasting khaki straps.Which do contain just
That's that.
Well barring a few tweeks,like changing brake levers getting matching (if possible) front panniers,top tube bag and seat post bag and some drive train adjustments.....

A six months plus,journey into bike builds,with forum forays aplenty to research the likes of maximum tolerances for chain ring tooth jump numbers of the front mech,rolling resistance testing for tyre selection,whether (and how) to tape my bars.....
Massive thanks to this forum amongst others and all who contribute,for your invaluable support and assistance. And also to my good friend Malcolm,his parts trove and all his grateful customers who have donated to it.
I couldn't have done it without all of you.
Exhaustive and excessively detailed photos are included.
Cheers!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6089141418.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...09e003d197.jpg
Used and very scuffed,green Cannondale quick release seatpost clamp,that I forgot to mention.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...46409b1148.jpg
Extra linkage for rack n frame bosses....
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5a89c1fd21.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8226289d33.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ffc9cd248.jpg
The bike bag "stripes" are rows of molle compatible webbing loops.....which asked for but may well remove.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35ec8ea78a.jpg
Green brake block section,peeking up....

Hello all! New guy here. I just picked up a Sirrus X 5.0, and need some feedback on tires. I will be spending a fair amount of time riding it on the beach, and want to put some wider tires on it (currently has 700x38C). The frame appears wide enough to accommodate somewhat wider tires. Any idea what size tires I should be considering? TIA

Specialized says you can go up to a 42c but wouldn’t be surprised if there is enough clearance for a 44.

I have a 2021 Sirrus X 5.0. I'm guessing you can run up to 45-47mm width and still have a bit of clearance on each side.

For sand, we're talking gravel bike tires. Some gravel tires are better in wet/muddy conditions, others dry/hardpacked conditions.

Keep this in mind if you're mostly riding in dry sand vs. wet. You want to optimize for the condition you see the most.

For wet, maybe a Teravail Rutland - they make 700x 42/45/47 sizes.

For dry, maybe a Continental Terra Trail. They only go up to 700x40.

There are many others. These are only a starting point.

If you're riding the stock Pathfinder Pro 38 tires, you might actually want to give those a shot on sand before deciding on different tires.

I haven't ridden on sand, but it doesn't hurt to see what they can do before deciding they're not up to the task.

Very helpful--thanks guys!

That's certainly true up front, but not in back. I have also have a 2021 X 5.0 and I've got 43mm Gravelking SS on it (that measure 44mm). It *barely* clears the chainstays - maybe 1-2mm clearance. This is OK in dry conditions, but almost unrideable in wet. Mud/debris clogs it up immediately. There is quite a bit more room up front, at least 48mm or so.

Note that these numbers may be different for the newer X 5.0 with the "compliance junction" frame.

On a different note, even a wider gravel tire may have trouble on sand unless you run it at super low pressure. I've ridden my MTB with 2.4" tires on sand and even they will dig in and bog down unless I run them at 15 psi or less (which would be way too squirmy on pavement or hardpacked trail).

I should point out that we usually only ride on the hard pack sand. The soft sand is just way too challenging.

What year X 5.0 did you get?

I don't know. I bought this second hand from someone in the neighborhood who was selling it for a friend (it was the friend's late husbands bike). Is there an easy way to determine year? If I had to guess, I'd say it was a couple years old.

I just want to know if it's the newer model:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9f6f770989.jpg

or the older style (up to 2022):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...46e2c3e042.jpg

Some folks like the newer style, some (like me) prefer the older more traditional frame geometry.

It is the older style frame (and color). It is a very nice ride.

Hello, everyone!

in 2018 I was living in St Augustine Florida and bought a clapped out Trek mountain bike to commute to work. After a lot of research I bought a 2017 Sirrus Elite disc alloy heavily discounted from the LBS. road it to and from work an hour each way down US1/A1A every day for over a year before I moved.

I’m currently living in north New Jersey and I’m about to start commuting in both Newark NJ and NYC.

I’d really like some input on how to set my Sirrus up for urban big city commuting. I’ve been thinking about maybe looking at a 1x setup instead of the 2x9 gear set it’s got. But… occasionally I would still like to do group rides with road bikers… is there a suggestion for a setup that is really good for urban but won’t hinder me road cycling?

I do plan on going with a 32 or 35 tire. I’d love to be able to upgrade to a future shock setup but guessing it can’t be retrofitted. If that’s the case… does anyone have any experience with the Redshift suspension stem?

any other suggestions?

Sirrus 4.0 Brake levers
 

Hi guys!
I would like to change only the brake levers to those shorter two-finger ones. Do you know which two-finger Shimano lever would be compatible with the existing system on the Sirrus 4.0? If none exists, would it be possible to change the entire brake system to one that comes with shorter levers? Which one would that be? Thank you!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d9fd4e0523.jpg

It's my understanding that you can use any Shimano lever's with any Shimano Calipers. Heck, there are some whom use Shimano Levers with other branded Calipers such as Magura and TRP. I'm considering using the Deore Lever's with my TRP Slate Calipers on my mountain bike to save money and increase braking power.

Performance Bikes has a good price on Deore Brake Lever's that I had been considering, check it out: Performance Bikes Shimano Deore M6100 Brake Lever

This is mine. I believe it's a 2004 Sirrus Sport Disc. I got it super cheap and had these part's on hand. The only things original are the frame and fork along with the headset and seatpost collar. I "updated" it to Shimano Ultegra 6600 10s drivetrain and shifter's with Deore XT cranks. It also has TRP HY/RD caliper's that have the short throw lever conversion with interrupter brake levers for feeling safer on the tops. The stem and bars are an old Ritchey WCS stem and Easton EAX70 bars. Also put a Terry Fly TI saddle and old Deore seatpost I polished up. It's a pretty fun all around bicycle.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b46a05b49.jpg

looks awesome