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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

Old 09-02-16, 06:26 AM
  #226  
ColonelSanders
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Originally Posted by nardus010 View Post
Also resolved the bad squeaking from the steerer tube when steering :applied some teflon spray and it`s gone. (for good i hope)
Originally Posted by LHawes View Post
I had that same squeak, resolved the same way.
Where exactly on the steerer tube did you spray a lubricant?

I think mine is squeaking too.
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Old 09-02-16, 06:44 AM
  #227  
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Old 09-02-16, 08:10 AM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by nardus010 View Post
Thanks.

I had visions of taking off the headset cap and squirting lubricant all around it and allowing it to run down.
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Old 09-02-16, 02:15 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders View Post
Where exactly on the steerer tube did you spray a lubricant?

I think mine is squeaking too.
Yeah that squeaking is annoying but lubricating it has helped and it's silent now. My seatpost was fixed by the LBS. They replaced the expander wedge that clamps the seat in place and put loads of lube in first. It's also silent now.

Has anyone considered putting drop bars on their Toughroad ?
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Old 09-02-16, 04:54 PM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by markutz View Post
Has anyone considered putting drop bars on their Toughroad ?
It's generally too expensive and complicated. The main problem is that you would typically need a smaller frame since drop-bars put the handle bars ~50+ mm further forward. The second problem is the expense of new shifters.

In general, you would likely be better off buying a Revolt or AnyRoad.

Drop-bar conversions are mainly popular with older MTB conversions where a non-original owner buys a smaller frame that fits properly with drop-bars. That or custom builds from a specific frameset.
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Old 09-04-16, 04:20 AM
  #231  
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Originally Posted by roguewave View Post
Lately I have been noticing what I would call "crank creak" I'm 220 lbs and I imagine the forces on the pedal assembly are quite severe.
Mine has silicone grease virtually oozing out of the seat post joint and the base of the head tube, I imagine they have a similar amount in the crank as well. This bike hasn't been in production long so they probably screwed up on the first models. Corrected the lack of grease error after enough complaints were registered.
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Old 09-05-16, 12:40 AM
  #232  
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Grease in the seat post ? Might think only greeses on moving parts, you don`t want to have a moving seatpost ?
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Old 09-05-16, 03:22 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by nardus010 View Post
Grease in the seat post ? Might think only greeses on moving parts, you don't want to have a moving seatpost ?
It's not your normal seat post and the clamping mechanism is unique also. There is no slip.
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Old 09-06-16, 02:41 AM
  #234  
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Hi,
you can use an assembly paste like Liqui Moly LM 48 to fix the creaking noise of the seat clamp. I tried the Dynamic assembly paste with micropearls and it did not help at all. Then I used the normal assembly paste and everything was ok. If someone wants to use a paste with micropearls (you can mix the pastes), then only use a little of it on the back of the seatpost.
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Old 10-05-16, 04:36 AM
  #235  
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In my synthetic lubricant solved the problem.
And below my Toughroad.
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Old 10-07-16, 09:14 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by Zitronensaft View Post
Hi,
you can use an assembly paste like Liqui Moly LM 48 to fix the creaking noise of the seat clamp.
The SLR2, which this thread is dedicated to, has an aluminum seat post which doesn't suffer from creaking. A good solution for SLR 1 and 0 owners is to replace their post with the ally SLX-2 version. I did just that and it not only solved any potential creaks but also made the seat a lot more stable. I found the plastic seat post moving laterally in a most unacceptable fashion. I say plastic because that is basically what carbon fiber is. Made from Polyacrylonitrile, a vinyl polymer, made from crude oil. Useful, but it has it's limitations.
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Old 10-07-16, 10:43 AM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by nardus010 View Post
Grease in the seat post ? Might think only greeses on moving parts, you don`t want to have a moving seatpost ?
Its common practice to grease Al seatposts to prevent galvanic action (frame bonding to seatpost) regardless of frame material; it can happen with steel and Al frames due to metal on metal contact. Since grease breaks down some carbon epoxies, there is a special paste. Carbon pastes mainly exist to add grittiness, to allow for lower torque values for secure clamping because carbon is very sensitive to over-torquing. Carbon also accelerates Al oxidation, so a barrier is needed
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Old 10-07-16, 10:49 AM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by coominya View Post
The SLR2, which this thread is dedicated to, has an aluminum seat post which doesn't suffer from creaking. A good solution for SLR 1 and 0 owners is to replace their post with the ally SLX-2 version. I did just that and it not only solved any potential creaks but also made the seat a lot more stable. I found the plastic seat post moving laterally in a most unacceptable fashion. I say plastic because that is basically what carbon fiber is. Made from Polyacrylonitrile, a vinyl polymer, made from crude oil. Useful, but it has it's limitations.
And stainless steel is basically iron. The processing steps matter when it comes to final material properties.

If anyone wants an Al post, I'm happy to swap for a carbon one (uncracked). Shoot me a PM (USA only).
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Old 10-08-16, 04:37 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
If anyone wants an Al post, I'm happy to swap for a carbon one (uncracked). Shoot me a PM (USA only).
That's the trick with CF, finding secondhand stuff that isn't cracked.

CF Post 249g




AL post 298g




I find the hard anodizing finish on the Aluminum post much nicer than the raw plastic look of the CF.



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Old 11-01-16, 01:08 PM
  #240  
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questions about the SLR2

So i just joined this bike forum today. my current bike is 20+ years old. it served me well, but time for an upgrade. the SLR2 is one of the bikes i am considering but i have a couple questions about it that i haven't seen in the 10 pages of this thread, although i may have just missed it. Hoping some current owner can answer.

1. what is the weight of this bike ? An actual weight from a scale, not a guess, or some quote from Giants literature.
2. is there an aftermarket solution to make the seat a quick release hieght adjustment. don't want to carry a wrench around with me. this could seriously be a deal breaker.
3. I'm assuming like the SLR1 a rear rack can be installed , but are there eyelets/mounting points for traditional style fenders to be installed ?

Next this bike appeals to me because it is basically an modern version of what i have, rigid frame/fork, wide tires and low low gearing. are there any other bikes i should be looking at similar to this in specs ??

thanks for your help.
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Old 11-02-16, 05:40 AM
  #241  
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1.) The bike shop weighed one for me and it was 26lbs.

2.) No need for quick release. That's old school. The seat height is one of those things where once you set it, you forget it. Proper seat height is when the foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke your leg only has a slight bend in it. I have 3 different bikes and haven't touched the seat height on any of them since I made the initial adjustment when the bike was new.

3.)Yes on the rack. Not sure on your other question.

Giant kind of cornered the market with this one...aluminum frame, 2" wide tires and carbon fork. Not many offerings out there that I am aware of that check those 3 boxes on a ready to ride bike. Closest is the Specialized Crave but it comes standard as a single speed with the option to convert to geared but costs more $$$ in the end after you do all that.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...e-sl-29/106470
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Old 11-02-16, 07:39 AM
  #242  
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Originally Posted by pghchico View Post
the SLR2 is one of the bikes i am considering but i have a couple questions about it that i haven't seen in the 10 pages of this thread,
PM ColonelSanders, he owns one and could answer your questions.

Why do you need the quick release on the seat BTW? Will 2 different people be using it? I have had the seat mechanism out and the only way I could imagine you could get what you want is to weld an Allen Key into the hex bolt. It takes a few lbs per sq inch to fix it properly too. I tightened it with an Allen key by the road one day while making an on-the-fly adjustment and it slipped down after riding another few miles. Now I only tighten the bolt with a torque wrench set to the maximum allowable. The tube is D-shaped BTW so only Giant D-fuse posts fit the bike.
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Old 11-02-16, 07:50 AM
  #243  
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Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
2.) No need for quick release. That's old school. The seat height is one of those things where once you set it, you forget it.
Not so fast ...I remove the seat every time the bike is loaded for travel.
It allows better viewing through the rear view mirror..
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Old 11-02-16, 08:13 AM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by coominya View Post
The tube is D-shaped BTW so only Giant D-fuse posts fit the bike.
I wish every seatpost on every bike was like this. No more trying to eyeball it up for alignment. It's correct everytime.
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Old 11-02-16, 08:13 AM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by FrozenBiker View Post
Not so fast ...I remove the seat every time the bike is loaded for travel.
It allows better viewing through the rear view mirror..
You need a bigger vehicle or an exterior bike rack.
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Old 11-02-16, 08:16 AM
  #246  
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Originally Posted by FrozenBiker View Post
Not so fast ...I remove the seat every time the bike is loaded for travel.
It allows better viewing through the rear view mirror..
I suppose some people riding who work in offices might want to remove it too, when they go up to work, to make the bike less attractive to thieves? I've seen bikes chained up in the city with the front wheels off.
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Old 11-02-16, 08:17 AM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
I wish every seatpost on every bike was like this. No more trying to eyeball it up for alignment. It's correct everytime.
That's very true, perfect every time, though it makes it a little tricky to secure accessories on
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Old 11-02-16, 09:28 AM
  #248  
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Originally Posted by pghchico View Post
So i just joined this bike forum today. my current bike is 20+ years old. it served me well, but time for an upgrade. the SLR2 is one of the bikes i am considering but i have a couple questions about it that i haven't seen in the 10 pages of this thread, although i may have just missed it. Hoping some current owner can answer.

1. what is the weight of this bike ? An actual weight from a scale, not a guess, or some quote from Giants literature.
2. is there an aftermarket solution to make the seat a quick release hieght adjustment. don't want to carry a wrench around with me. this could seriously be a deal breaker.
3. I'm assuming like the SLR1 a rear rack can be installed , but are there eyelets/mounting points for traditional style fenders to be installed ?

Next this bike appeals to me because it is basically an modern version of what i have, rigid frame/fork, wide tires and low low gearing. are there any other bikes i should be looking at similar to this in specs ??

thanks for your help.
Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
1.) The bike shop weighed one for me and it was 26lbs.

2.) No need for quick release. That's old school. The seat height is one of those things where once you set it, you forget it. Proper seat height is when the foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke your leg only has a slight bend in it. I have 3 different bikes and haven't touched the seat height on any of them since I made the initial adjustment when the bike was new.

3.)Yes on the rack. Not sure on your other question.

Giant kind of cornered the market with this one...aluminum frame, 2" wide tires and carbon fork. Not many offerings out there that I am aware of that check those 3 boxes on a ready to ride bike. Closest is the Specialized Crave but it comes standard as a single speed with the option to convert to geared but costs more $$$ in the end after you do all that.

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...e-sl-29/106470
I pretty much agree with everything prj71 has said here, what I will add anyway is :

1. I weighed my Large Toughroad SLR 2 with the Park Tools hanging scale and it came out to 26.06lbs
2. It is not possible to have a quick release for the seat post here, nor do I want one. If you are worried about saddle theft, I would get a small chain to secure the saddle to the bike for when you leave it parked.
3. The bike has all the eyelets for fenders and racks you could want, with the possible exception of no hole/eyelet in the fork crown.

Also, because I run 50mm tyres, my front derailleur blocks me from putting a full fender over the rear tyre, as I am unable to attach a fender mount to the little bridge in between the chain stays.

As a result I have purchased a clip on rear fender(which I really must get around to installing), but if I either fit a 40mm rear tyre or go with a 1x setup(both quite likely prospects in the medium term), then I would be able to run a full rear fender.

No problems with a front fender fitting.

Not sure if there are any other mountain bike hybrids that come with a carbon fork, but a bike besides the Toughroad that looks somewhat appealing is the Kona Big Rove ST, but that model isn't being sold anymore, so might be hard to find.

A Marin Muirwoods bike also appeals to me.

Last edited by ColonelSanders; 11-02-16 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 11-02-16, 10:01 AM
  #249  
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Originally Posted by coominya View Post
PM ColonelSanders, he owns one and could answer your questions.

Why do you need the quick release on the seat BTW?

well when i'm on the road, i want the seat up high, as you said, i want my leg almost straight when the peddle is at the bottom. BUT when i'm out on the trails i put the seat down a few inches. then put my peddles horizontal and use my legs, knees and hips as the suspension. shift my weight back over the backwheel to bounce over obsticales. So being able to adjust the seat is very important.

Colonel Sanders. funny you mentioned the KONA big rove, that is the other bike i'm looking at, but it has a Al fork not carbon, not sure how much that would effect weight.
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Old 11-02-16, 10:12 AM
  #250  
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Colonel Sanders, you say you are running 50mm tires, are those full blown mountain bike knobbies ? do you think full on 29x2 mtb knobbies would fit on the bike ? Most of the hybrid bikes i been looking at all have 700x35 tires , and i wonder if any of them can accomodate 29x2 mtb tires. That would certainly give me more options for bikes.
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