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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

Old 04-24-17, 03:35 PM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by lestat
Test - Giant Toughroad Video upload
Are the videos accelerated?
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Old 04-24-17, 06:17 PM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by andrei_r
Are the videos accelerated?
No, they look normal to me. Way too fast for those tight corners on a shared bikeway though. Stupid riding.
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Old 04-25-17, 04:57 AM
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Normal Speed

Originally Posted by andrei_r
Are the videos accelerated?
Normal speed.

Originally Posted by coominya
No, they look normal to me. Way too fast for those tight corners on a shared bikeway though. Stupid riding.
Yeah normal, but i think the camera just made it look too fast as it is in superwide mode? I only averaged about ~21km/hr that day I think?
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Old 04-25-17, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by lestat
Normal speed.



Yeah normal, but i think the camera just made it look too fast as it is in superwide mode? I only averaged about ~21km/hr that day I think?
Ok, must be the wide angle. It looks like you're flying. Nice videos btw, besides being on the wrong side of the road the whole time
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Old 04-25-17, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by gsa103
That's what I love about the Toughroad. You can commute on it, and then take it out on the trails the next day

Yeah. It's really awesome.
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Old 04-25-17, 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by andrei_r
Ok, must be the wide angle. It looks like you're flying. Nice videos btw, besides being on the wrong side of the road the whole time
Haha, we're here in Aussie, so we're on the left hand side of the road. LOL..
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Old 04-26-17, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by lestat
Haha, we're here in Aussie, so we're on the left hand side of the road. LOL..
Yes the Left side, which is the "right" side
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Old 04-26-17, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lestat
Great vids!
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Old 04-27-17, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by coominya
Yes the Left side, which is the "right" side
Yeah, right!
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Old 04-28-17, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Esthetic
Great vids!
Hey thanks.
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Old 04-28-17, 08:21 PM
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i must also agree that it looked too fast to be normal - i thought it was speeded up.

Don't u guys use bar ends?
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Old 04-30-17, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
i must also agree that it looked too fast to be normal - i thought it was speeded up.

Don't u guys use bar ends?
Bar ends dangerous off road. Catches trees.
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Old 05-01-17, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
Don't u guys use bar ends?
Don't use bar ends but I won't mind if I get a good price for commuting. But maybe I'll prefer to put an aero bar or some kind of extension so rest my arms and be a little bit less dragging as I'm often on a headwind because of the direction and the time of my daily commute. I'm no sure if it would look good though. Lol
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Old 05-13-17, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by lestat
Are those Cascadia mudguards? I bought them and tried to install, but the metal loop for the front is too short. I see you've extended it with another piece of metal. Did that come with your mudguards or is that something you added? What is it exactly? I need to do the same...
Originally Posted by lestat
Also, did you clip the mudguard spokes? On my bike they're too long and hitting the Toughroad's built in mudguard, but in your photo, you've got lots of clearance. I assume I'm going to have to trim them.
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Old 05-13-17, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lestat
... also, when I tried, the rear mudguard doesn't hook onto the frame at the bottom bracket area. There's a little nub on the frame that should hook into the hole on the mudguard, but the front derailleur is too big and prevents the mudguard from reaching. Judging by your pic, I'm guessing you left it detached? Or did you find some way to hook it in?
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Old 05-15-17, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by noob_rider
Are those Cascadia mudguards? I bought them and tried to install, but the metal loop for the front is too short. I see you've extended it with another piece of metal. Did that come with your mudguards or is that something you added? What is it exactly? I need to do the same...


Also, did you clip the mudguard spokes? On my bike they're too long and hitting the Toughroad's built in mudguard, but in your photo, you've got lots of clearance. I assume I'm going to have to trim them.

Yes. I've cut a small piece of aluminium plate and drill for the boost so go to extend the mudguards closer to the tyres. I also trimmed the Mudguard spokes as it hits the bikes c-defender, but more so my shoes hit them whe I track stand.

With the rear, there is no attachment close to the front derailleurs, rather there is an attachment close to the upper part of the seat tube where the rear rack is attached. Ivan try to post a photo when I get home. If you place the front edge of the rear mudguard all the way to just under the chainstay, it shouldn't be an issue with the front derailleur as the mudguard will be pushed closer to the tyres by the chainstay's clearance.
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Old 05-17-17, 10:29 PM
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Help choosing between a ToughRoad SLR2 2017 and Seek 1 2016

hi there. First time here. I had a Giant Seek 2 from 2012 and I now want a new bike...I went to my local Giant store in Toronto and they have a ToughRoad SLR2 2017 and also a Giant Seek 1 2016...for mostly commuting use, which bike would you recommend? The Seek1 comes with Schwalbe Big Apple tires and the ToughRoad SLR also comes with wide tires and I was told that it was newer "technology" etc..but which one would you guys recommend?
I hope this thread is still active...
thanks for your time

Bikeless in Toronto

E
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Old 05-17-17, 11:39 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by Pacoloco1966
hi there. First time here. I had a Giant Seek 2 from 2012 and I now want a new bike...I went to my local Giant store in Toronto and they have a ToughRoad SLR2 2017 and also a Giant Seek 1 2016...for mostly commuting use, which bike would you recommend? The Seek1 comes with Schwalbe Big Apple tires and the ToughRoad SLR also comes with wide tires and I was told that it was newer "technology" etc..but which one would you guys recommend?
I hope this thread is still active...
thanks for your time

Bikeless in Toronto

E
Test ride each of them and see how you feel on them respectively.


The drivetrains on them are very different, as I believe the Seek 1 has an Alfine drive.
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Old 05-18-17, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
Test ride each of them and see how you feel on them respectively.


The drivetrains on them are very different, as I believe the Seek 1 has an Alfine drive.
thanks! The Seek 1 has the Alfine drive and I haven't tried it yet. I did try the ToughRoad and it felt ok..maybe a bit more upright than my older Seek 2 from 2012. I was told that the material etc of the ToughRoad SLR2 absorbs shocks better etc..but I can't say for sure..have you had the chance to ride them both? just wondering...I kind of like the wide tires for sure.
I also looked at the Trek Lync 5 which is an interesting concept but can't justify so much more money. Almost 2K CDN...too much for me.
I just want a comfortable, reliable bike for a reasonable price. Summer is almost here in Canada!
thanks!
E
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Old 05-18-17, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Pacoloco1966
thanks! The Seek 1 has the Alfine drive and I haven't tried it yet. I did try the ToughRoad and it felt ok..maybe a bit more upright than my older Seek 2 from 2012. I was told that the material etc of the ToughRoad SLR2 absorbs shocks better etc..but I can't say for sure..have you had the chance to ride them both? just wondering...I kind of like the wide tires for sure.
I also looked at the Trek Lync 5 which is an interesting concept but can't justify so much more money. Almost 2K CDN...too much for me.
I just want a comfortable, reliable bike for a reasonable price. Summer is almost here in Canada!
thanks!
E
The carbon fork on the Toughroad should be more absorbent of vibrations than what I believe is an aluminium fork on the Seek.


With 50mm tyres on both bikes, perhaps there will be not much difference in how either soaks up the bumps.


As someone explained to me on these forums when I posed the question about whether higher grades of aluminium absorb vibrations better than lesser grades of aluminium, there is no difference there due to the respective grades.


What could make a difference is the respective frame designs, but I have no idea how they compare to each other in that regard.


I run the folding version of Schwalbe's Marathon Mondial tyres in 2" wide, as opposed to a wire bead version, and running my bike at 60psi in the front tyre and 70psi in the rear tyre, gives me what I consider to be a very comfortable ride.
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Old 05-18-17, 05:59 PM
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Just for commuting?

Originally Posted by Pacoloco1966
hi there. First time here. I had a Giant Seek 2 from 2012 and I now want a new bike...I went to my local Giant store in Toronto and they have a ToughRoad SLR2 2017 and also a Giant Seek 1 2016...for mostly commuting use, which bike would you recommend? The Seek1 comes with Schwalbe Big Apple tires and the ToughRoad SLR also comes with wide tires and I was told that it was newer "technology" etc..but which one would you guys recommend?
I hope this thread is still active...
thanks for your time

Bikeless in Toronto

E

If it is me and I only plan on using the bike for commuting, I would go for the Seek 1 2016 with internal gears. It's more simple and less maintenance. Just pickup and go.

In my case, I chose the Toughroad as I wanted to use a bike for a bit of everything. Also, the carbon fork is so comfortable on longer rides.
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Old 05-19-17, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by lestat
If it is me and I only plan on using the bike for commuting, I would go for the Seek 1 2016 with internal gears. It's more simple and less maintenance. Just pickup and go.

In my case, I chose the Toughroad as I wanted to use a bike for a bit of everything. Also, the carbon fork is so comfortable on longer rides.
thanks guys! I will go back to the store and try the Seek 1...I think the ToughRoad would be nice if I did some off the path riding more often but i really don't do any of that...
thanks for the help to everyone...
E
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Old 05-29-17, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gsa103
Yes, I used them once. They are incredibly heavy, seriously they weigh more than the tire...
They also didn't really work, they never fully sealed while riding. It just turned a puncture into a slow leak, rather than a flat on the road. And sprayed green goo everywhere, making it nearly impossible to clean and patch.

Don't waste your money. If you really do have flat problems, converting to tubeless is much more effective.
Originally Posted by prj71
On average, it weighs about 25 lbs stock.

Throw some carbon bars on it, carbon seatpost, lighter seat, tubeless tire setup, 1x drivetrain conversion, and some carbon rims or lighter aluminum rims...easily could get the bike in the 18-20 pound range.
Do you have experience converting the toughroad to tubeless? what system did you use? For a former bike I came up with the Schwalbe system but ultimately didn't go through (since I bought the toughroad instead investing in the old bike).

Does anyone have experience doing that and what tires did you use? I generally like the OEM tires it came with since they are a good compromise between rolling resistance and off-roadability.

I had a flat today and couldn't really patch it reliably on the road (at home it turned out there was another hole right next to the patch). So I installed my spare tube I had with me (prepared!!). Turned out the valve stem on that spare tube had a kink and I couldn't put that nut on. It held air and got me home. So bought 2 new tubes and replaced the one with the broken valve stem at home. Installed the brand-new tube, inflated to just under 60 psi (adjusted to 55 psi). Put the bike on the ground and after one minute "bang" the tube ruptured on a 10" long straight line (no seam). Must be manufacturing defect. So installed another tube that seems to work. Call me motivated to get rid of tubes.
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Old 05-29-17, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
The carbon fork on the Toughroad should be more absorbent of vibrations than what I believe is an aluminium fork on the Seek.


With 50mm tyres on both bikes, perhaps there will be not much difference in how either soaks up the bumps.


As someone explained to me on these forums when I posed the question about whether higher grades of aluminium absorb vibrations better than lesser grades of aluminium, there is no difference there due to the respective grades.


What could make a difference is the respective frame designs, but I have no idea how they compare to each other in that regard.


I run the folding version of Schwalbe's Marathon Mondial tyres in 2" wide, as opposed to a wire bead version, and running my bike at 60psi in the front tyre and 70psi in the rear tyre, gives me what I consider to be a very comfortable ride.
I didn't compare to aluminum fork, but I rode the toughroad on street construction sites and on bike paths with lot of frost heaving and groves from heaving. I also rode my 26" MTB with cheap front suspension fork and 2" tires. Both were about the same with going over rocks, holes etc. On the groves (90 to direction of gravel) the suspended fork was maybe 5% better, but only because I really paid attention. I was riding at 45 psi front. Not saying the toughroad is as good as a good suspension fork, but for daily use as good as a cheap suspension fork (without the weight penalty). The larger wheels also may play a role.
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Old 05-30-17, 10:17 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
Do you have experience converting the toughroad to tubeless? what system did you use? For a former bike I came up with the Schwalbe system but ultimately didn't go through (since I bought the toughroad instead investing in the old bike).

Does anyone have experience doing that and what tires did you use? I generally like the OEM tires it came with since they are a good compromise between rolling resistance and off-roadability.
I haven't converted the TR to tubeless. I'm not planning to since I don't put that many miles on it, and it wasn't worth the hassle.
I've used the Stan's conversion kit in my other mountain bike. Basically, you need to install new rim tape.

I would definitely get tubeless-ready tires. My mountain bike has a one TL-Easy tire and one "Performance" non-tubeless tire. The non-tubeless version is major pain. It requires much more sealant and if the pressure drops the beads un-seat.
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