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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

Old 05-30-17, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
I didn't compare to aluminum fork, but I rode the toughroad on street construction sites and on bike paths with lot of frost heaving and groves from heaving. I also rode my 26" MTB with cheap front suspension fork and 2" tires. Both were about the same with going over rocks, holes etc. On the groves (90 to direction of gravel) the suspended fork was maybe 5% better, but only because I really paid attention. I was riding at 45 psi front. Not saying the toughroad is as good as a good suspension fork, but for daily use as good as a cheap suspension fork (without the weight penalty). The larger wheels also may play a role.

I've never ridden a bike with suspension, so I can't compare, but I do know there are times when I am riding my bike and I am amazed at how comfortable it feels.
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Old 06-02-17, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
I didn't compare to aluminum fork, but I rode the toughroad on street construction sites and on bike paths with lot of frost heaving and groves from heaving. I also rode my 26" MTB with cheap front suspension fork and 2" tires. Both were about the same with going over rocks, holes etc. On the groves (90 to direction of gravel) the suspended fork was maybe 5% better, but only because I really paid attention. I was riding at 45 psi front. Not saying the toughroad is as good as a good suspension fork, but for daily use as good as a cheap suspension fork (without the weight penalty). The larger wheels also may play a role.
Cheap suspension forks aren't worth the weight penalty. The Toughroad fork doesn't compare to what a good suspension fork would do in terms of shock absorption. On my full suspension bike, I can crash through those obstacles without really noticing.

But a good suspension fork will add ~4 lbs to bike and would be a ~$1500 bike rather than a <$1000 bike.
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Old 06-08-17, 05:36 AM
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One of the things i like about the toughroad SLR 2 is the mountain bike gearing - 3 chainrings in front and a largish 34 at the back. I like to climb and the SLR 2 makes the toughest hill climb i can find in my area into mole hills - the triple ring in front allows one to just spin up a climb nearly effortless. If i used my road bike i would have immediately felt the pressure in the legs.
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Old 06-08-17, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
One of the things i like about the toughroad SLR 2 is the mountain bike gearing - 3 chainrings in front and a largish 34 at the back. I like to climb and the SLR 2 makes the toughest hill climb i can find in my area into mole hills - the triple ring in front allows one to just spin up a climb nearly effortless. If i used my road bike i would have immediately felt the pressure in the legs.
That isn't mountain bike gearing these days. Mountain bikes are coming standard or being user converted to a 1x system. 28-32 chainring up front and 11-36 or 11-42 cassette in back.
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Old 06-10-17, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by prj71
That isn't mountain bike gearing these days. Mountain bikes are coming standard or being user converted to a 1x system. 28-32 chainring up front and 11-36 or 11-42 cassette in back.
it's not modern gearing but I prefer the triple up front - better chain line for the chain. Watch 4 BIG PROBLEMS Of 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 Drivetrains. 1 By Drivetrain - THE TRUTH. SickBiker Review.
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Old 06-11-17, 07:20 AM
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That guy is an idiot. Doesn't know what he is talking about.
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Old 06-11-17, 08:30 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
it's not modern gearing but I prefer the triple up front - better chain line for the chain. Watch 4 BIG PROBLEMS Of 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 Drivetrains. 1 By Drivetrain - THE TRUTH. SickBiker Review.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew03wbHOHS0
thanks for sharing. I agree with the cross-chaining concerns. I don't agree with the concern about the chain skipping when back-paddling. First, one of his bikes didn't have that problem, so that is more a design and setup issue. Second, I never ride my bicycle back-paddling very fast

I think the 2x drivetrains are a good compromise (I have the SLR1 with 2x10). it eliminates front-shifting except for when I change to off-road or uphill. Once I'm in the front smaller or larger chainring i only shift with the rear. Once the hill ends or i go back to pavement, I go back to large chainring etc. Front-shifting also is smoother because of the 2:3 tooth ratio of 2x chainrings (at least SRAM does 2:3)
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Old 06-11-17, 06:17 PM
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The SLR0 (not available in the USA) is set up as a 1x. I wish this bike was available in the U.S.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0
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Old 06-11-17, 06:28 PM
  #359  
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Originally Posted by prj71
The SLR0 (not available in the USA) is set up as a 1x. I wish this bike was available in the U.S.

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/toughroad-slr-0

They made a slight change with the secondary colour for some reason and thus it lacks certain accents/striping that the SLR 1 & 2 have and that hurts the look of the bike in my view.
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Old 06-11-17, 06:43 PM
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I love the color of the SLR0!

I'm actually disappointed with the color scheme on the 2017 SLR1
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Old 06-11-17, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by prj71
I love the color of the SLR0!

I'm actually disappointed with the color scheme on the 2017 SLR1

The 2016 & 2017 SLR 1 & SLR 2, all have a main colour and then striping/accents in certain spots.


The SLR 0 doesn't have the same striping in that it is just the main colour in a number of places that the other members of the Toughroad family have their secondary colour.


I feel it is a shame that the SLR 0 didn't keep the "family colour scheme pattern" going, plus I do feel that it would look better if there was a bit more of the orange in places where one would have expected it, looking at the SLR 1 & 2.
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Old 06-11-17, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by prj71
That guy is an idiot. Doesn't know what he is talking about.
He's an idiot? why are u so quick to judge - are u smarter/cleverer than Sickbiker?? I happened to think that his reviews are very sincere and he pulls no punches - he'll call a spade a spade. Which is why i value his opinion.

so u disagree that the chain's extreme angles of 1x or cross chaining is extreme and causes unnecessary wear on the chain?

Last edited by Machoman121; 06-12-17 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 06-12-17, 07:25 AM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
Watch 4 BIG PROBLEMS Of 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 Drivetrains. 1 By Drivetrain - THE TRUTH. SickBiker
He brings up some valid points alright, but just the clunky noise would be enough to put me off. I'm 2*10 and that's ok, not as smooth as my older (rebuilt) 3*8 but quite acceptable. The Composite* forks on my new bike creak now, after only 8 months of use, they will have to be pulled and lubed no doubt. There is a lot of aspects of modern bikes that are crap but we blind ourselves to them for the bling factor.
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Old 06-12-17, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
The 2016 & 2017 SLR 1 & SLR 2, all have a main colour and then striping/accents in certain spots.


The SLR 0 doesn't have the same striping in that it is just the main colour in a number of places that the other members of the Toughroad family have their secondary colour.


I feel it is a shame that the SLR 0 didn't keep the "family colour scheme pattern" going, plus I do feel that it would look better if there was a bit more of the orange in places where one would have expected it, looking at the SLR 1 & 2.
I'm not a fan of the blue accents on the 2017 SLR1
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Old 06-12-17, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Machoman121
He's an idiot? why are u so quick to judge - are u smarter/cleverer than Sickbiker?? I happened to think that his reviews are very sincere and he pulls no punches - he'll call a spade a spade. Which is why i value his opinion.

so u disagree that the chain's extreme angles of 1x or cross chaining is extreme and causes unnecessary wear on the chain?
I have 1x on 3 out the 4 bikes I own...2 mountain bikes and one fat bike. I don't have any chain line problems, any cross chaining or any unenecessary wear. It's a matter of setting it up correctly with the bottom bracket or chain ring spacers or...the bike is already designed for 1x from the factory.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/page...-and-non-boost

Too many gear overlaps to justify 2x or 3x anymore these days other than on road bikes.

https://reviews.mtbr.com/tech-1x10-na...ing-revealed-2
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Old 06-13-17, 08:55 PM
  #366  
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but let's not take this Toughroad thread too far off the paved road :-)
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Old 06-28-17, 12:50 AM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
The 2016 & 2017 SLR 1 & SLR 2, all have a main colour and then striping/accents in certain spots.


The SLR 0 doesn't have the same striping in that it is just the main colour in a number of places that the other members of the Toughroad family have their secondary colour.


I feel it is a shame that the SLR 0 didn't keep the "family colour scheme pattern" going, plus I do feel that it would look better if there was a bit more of the orange in places where one would have expected it, looking at the SLR 1 & 2.
I have a SLR 0 here in the UK, the frame is just bare brushed aluminium with clear lacquer and some occasional coloured graphics. It's quite discrete and doesn't show the stone chips!
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Old 07-11-17, 09:04 AM
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Just bought a ToughRoad SLR 2 a couple of days ago, to replace my Felt Verza Speed 30. This is (I hope), the type of bike I've been longing for, for quite some time, something more along the lines of a MTB, but without the weight. Also, the comments on here helped convince me that this is the bike for me

Will post pictures and my thoughts as I continue to ride it. But so far, I've done a 32Km and a 20Km ride through town, and it's a lot of fun.

I'm 6', and went with a Medium size, which fits great. Usually I go with a large (or 56cm) for my bikes

Pros:
- Weight. Never did officially weigh it, but, it's light (my 2007 K2 weighs 35lbs).
- Fast. Even with the stock tires and a rack on the back, I was averaging near 30Kmh over a 20Km stretch. That was until I turned around and into the wind.

Complaints:
- Paint is cheap. Car's bike rack "scratched" the paint off of various parts of the bike, right away. My road/gravel grinder (Felt V85) has been on that rack literally for hundreds of kilometers without a scratch
- The forks have little bumps at the bottom, just above where the skewer slides in to. Which means you really have to turn the quick release to get the tire off.
- Pain in the .... to get the front wheel back on and aligned

Upgrades:
- Although the stock tires were fine for me on my first ride, I ended up getting Specialized Sawtooths (700x42).
- Added a rack, and panniers
- Blaze 650 Front Light
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Old 07-12-17, 08:36 PM
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Has anyone shortened the handlebars? At 690 mm they seem very wide and I feel I hit things with them. Now I got ergo grips, that place my hands on the outer edge even more than the original round grips. My shoulder width is around 48 cm (19") adn that is also the distance between my hands on the bar. Per guidelines that is what it should be, just feels so wide. (if i interpret correctly the shoulder width should be between the hands, so the bar should be shoulder plus 2x handwidth)

Obviously if I cut them, there is no way back. So I wonder if someone else feels the same way? The Toughroad handlebars seem to be on the wide side compared to other hybrids.Maybe because it is built for tougher roads for more control?

My new ergo grips GP5 also are relatively large, which now makes it look even larger.
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Old 07-12-17, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
Has anyone shortened the handlebars? At 690 mm they seem very wide and I feel I hit things with them. Now I got ergo grips, that place my hands on the outer edge even more than the original round grips. My shoulder width is around 48 cm (19") adn that is also the distance between my hands on the bar. Per guidelines that is what it should be, just feels so wide. (if i interpret correctly the shoulder width should be between the hands, so the bar should be shoulder plus 2x handwidth)

Obviously if I cut them, there is no way back. So I wonder if someone else feels the same way? The Toughroad handlebars seem to be on the wide side compared to other hybrids.Maybe because it is built for tougher roads for more control?

My new ergo grips GP5 also are relatively large, which now makes it look even larger.

You should be able to push your hand grips in by whatever distance you want and then it will effectively be like riding a bike with narrower handlebars.


That way you can work out what is the ideal size for you before either cutting your existing handlebars or getting a new one.
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Old 07-13-17, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
You should be able to push your hand grips in by whatever distance you want and then it will effectively be like riding a bike with narrower handlebars.


That way you can work out what is the ideal size for you before either cutting your existing handlebars or getting a new one.
Good point and I tried that. However, my grips with the longer bar end can't move closer inside. The bar end is butting against the end of the handlebar and can't slide really on. And without the bar end the grips themselves can't be fastened. I could try the original grips to be closer, but want to get the real feeling withe ht grips and bar ends i actually will be using.

since these bar ends don't slide fully on, they "widen" the apparent handlebar by another 6 mm on each side. Almost looks my bike is a swide as it is long :-)

I'm just wondering of others also feel the handlebars are extremely wide. i realize everyone is different, but these seem very wide.
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Old 07-13-17, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
Good point and I tried that. However, my grips with the longer bar end can't move closer inside. The bar end is butting against the end of the handlebar and can't slide really on. And without the bar end the grips themselves can't be fastened. I could try the original grips to be closer, but want to get the real feeling withe ht grips and bar ends i actually will be using.

since these bar ends don't slide fully on, they "widen" the apparent handlebar by another 6 mm on each side. Almost looks my bike is a swide as it is long :-)

I'm just wondering of others also feel the handlebars are extremely wide. i realize everyone is different, but these seem very wide.
Okay, I don't have your Ergon grips, I have the GP1's and when I looked at yours, I thought you might be able to push them in, it is a bummer that you can't.


700mm wide handlebars on the Toughroad is very wide and the stock grips are terrible, so clearly something needs to be done there.


I found I got use to the 700mm after a couple of rides, even though it was very awkward at first, but I currently have my handgrips in by 10mm on each side, so now I am effectively riding a 680mm wide handlebar.


I also have a 660mm handlebar to try out, or I could slide my grips and gear shifters in by another 10mm each side, and I have a feeling this will be the Goldilocks size for me, but as you said, everyone is different and I think @coominya settled on either a 600mm or 580mm wide handlebar.
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Old 07-13-17, 11:05 PM
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I imagine it's very difficult to move the controls and grips in on a riser bar because of the curve? I replaced my bar with a flat one and then moved the grips inboard.
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Old 07-16-17, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by coominya
I imagine it's very difficult to move the controls and grips in on a riser bar because of the curve? I replaced my bar with a flat one and then moved the grips inboard.
The straight part of the handlebar where the shifter and grips are attached has at least 8 cm left before it bends. So one could move controls and grips in by 8 cm on each side...
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Old 07-17-17, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun
The straight part of the handlebar where the shifter and grips are attached has at least 8 cm left before it bends. So one could move controls and grips in by 8 cm on each side...
Yes I re-checked, there is enough room.
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