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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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2016 Giant ToughRoad SLR2

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Old 05-22-16, 07:24 AM
  #101  
Osprey379
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Hi, I am new to the forum. I purchased a Toughroad SLR2 last week, and so far am very impressed. I am thinking of upgrading the groupset (not brakes) and grips. Does anybody have any recommendations? It is about 10 years since owning a bike so I am a bit out of the loop on what is worthwhile doing. Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-22-16, 01:32 PM
  #102  
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One of the members here had replaced the components with SLR, and loved the difference.
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Old 05-22-16, 03:34 PM
  #103  
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You mean SLX
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Old 05-23-16, 05:44 AM
  #104  
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Thanks for the reply, I will look into using SLX.
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Old 05-29-16, 07:48 PM
  #105  
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My pimp'd out Toughroad
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Old 05-31-16, 05:12 PM
  #106  
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Depending on your riding, there are 3 solid upgrade paths.

Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
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Old 06-01-16, 07:26 AM
  #107  
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Having to drop all of this cash for a bike, then hundreds more to change things is
something that I still can't get past. It is what it is, and yet still unacceptable
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Old 06-01-16, 01:30 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by HCB View Post
My pimp'd out Toughroad
Could you please list the changes you have made,
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Old 06-01-16, 01:37 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
Depending on your riding, there are 3 solid upgrade paths.

Option 1: Upgrade shifter to a 9-speed RapidFire II shifter (this allows your thumb to shift both up & down) Cost ~$30.
Option 2: Convert to a 1x9/10/11 system. For commuting, 1x10 or 1x11 seems about ideal, and you get to drop a bunch of weight & clutter. Cost ~$20-$150
Option 3: Convert to a 2x10 or 3x10-speed (new cassette, rear derailluer, shifter). Front ~$150, Rear ~$150.
I'll probably convert mine to a 1 x 11 system, for amongst other reasons, the front derailleur prevents me from installing a full length rear fender that attaches to the eyelet in the bridge of the chainstays, near the bottom bracket(at least whilst using 29 x 2" Marathon Mondial tyres.

Another reason is that the downpull front derailleur cable also prevents me from installing a kickstand in the area near where the aforementioned eyelet in the chainstay bridge is located.
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Old 06-02-16, 11:55 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders View Post
Could you please list the changes you have made,
Upgrade list:

Stans Arch EX Tubeless Wheels
Shimano SLX groupset
Selle Itaia SL saddle
Spank Oozy handlebar
Spank Oozy stem
Shimano XTR pedals
Shimano XT Ice Tech rotors 160mm front, 180mm rear
Specialized grips
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Old 06-02-16, 12:41 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by HCB View Post
Upgrade list:

Stans Arch EX Tubeless Wheels
Shimano SLX groupset
Selle Itaia SL saddle
Spank Oozy handlebar
Spank Oozy stem
Shimano XTR pedals
Shimano XT Ice Tech rotors 160mm front, 180mm rear
Specialized grips
Wow, you didn't muck around.

It must be a very, very nice bike to ride now, because even completely stock it is pretty awesome.
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Old 06-02-16, 06:34 PM
  #112  
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Thanks for all the upgrade suggestions. I am certainly going to make a few.
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Old 06-02-16, 06:58 PM
  #113  
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Was it a straight swap when you replaced the rotors, or is an adaptor/spacers required?
Originally Posted by HCB View Post
Upgrade list:

Stans Arch EX Tubeless Wheels
Shimano SLX groupset
Selle Itaia SL saddle
Spank Oozy handlebar
Spank Oozy stem
Shimano XTR pedals
Shimano XT Ice Tech rotors 160mm front, 180mm rear
Specialized grips
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Old 06-03-16, 03:50 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Osprey379 View Post
Was it a straight swap when you replaced the rotors, or is an adaptor/spacers required?
A $9 adaptor was needed. Big difference on a steep descent with the 180mm front rotors.
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Old 06-03-16, 05:05 PM
  #115  
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Sorry, is the adapter needed for the front 160mm or rear 180mm rotor?
Originally Posted by HCB View Post
A $9 adaptor was needed. Big difference on a steep descent with the 180mm front rotors.
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Old 06-03-16, 05:37 PM
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Well the Toughroad comes with 160mm for front & rear. Most mountain bikes come with bigger rotors in the front than back. Usually 180mm front, 160mm back. You need the adaptor if you are replacing the 160mm with a larger rotor.
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Old 06-05-16, 05:27 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by NormanF View Post
Marin Bicycles has the Marin Muirwoods.

Its basically a rigid 29er built for urban riding. I have one and one can upgrade the stock 700 X 42 to 700 X 52 or 29 X 2.0 for all-round riding.

A great rig!
agreed but it is heavy even by steel standards.
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Old 06-06-16, 10:41 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by FrozenBiker View Post
Having to drop all of this cash for a bike, then hundreds more to change things is
something that I still can't get past. It is what it is, and yet still unacceptable
There's nothing you need to change on the bike. The brakes are excellent, the drivetrain is reliable and shifts smoothly. Even the stock tires aren't bad. They're reasonably supple, roll smoothly and have a good tread pattern for road or light trail usage. The only reason to swap components is ergonomics or weight.
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Old 06-07-16, 10:48 AM
  #119  
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Anyone have any issues with seat post noise?
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Old 06-08-16, 06:01 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by HCB View Post
Upgrade list:

Stans Arch EX Tubeless Wheels
Why this upgrade?
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Old 06-08-16, 10:34 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
Why this upgrade?
As I see it, there are 3 'primary' reasons to go tubeless:

1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight

there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
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Old 06-08-16, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by manthe View Post
As I see it, there are 3 'primary' reasons to go tubeless:

1. You are far less prone to flat tires! No tubes to puncture - and typically if something does happen to puncture or slice the tire casing, the liquid used to setup and seat the tire quickly seals it. Tubeless setup's can be prone to 'burping' but that is typically only with *significant* impacts on already low psi setups.
2. You can run much lower PSI with tubeless setups. If your 'gravel grinding' or riding mixed terrain, lower PSI can offer much better traction, grip and/or comfort.
3. It's lighter. No tubes=less weight

there are other pros (and cons) - but those are my personal top 3...
I already know the benefits of tubeless. My mountain bike is tubeless.

But you don't have to buy a tubeless wheel-set to go tubeless. You can just tape the rims. That and I believe the Giant SX-2 rims on that bike are already tubeless ready.
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Old 06-17-16, 01:12 PM
  #123  
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Sorry for my English. I plan to purchase ToughRoad SLR 1. I have a problem with the selection frame size. I 179cm height and I do not know if the size M or L?
What you have frame size and how much growth you? Please help
Regards Przemo
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Old 06-17-16, 05:47 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Przemo View Post
Sorry for my English. I plan to purchase ToughRoad SLR 1. I have a problem with the selection frame size. I 179cm height and I do not know if the size M or L?
What you have frame size and how much growth you? Please help
Regards Przemo
Probably L. I'm 6'0" and fit on a L, the M was definitely too cramped. If you have long legs you might be happier on the M.
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Old 06-22-16, 01:19 AM
  #125  
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Thanks for your help gsa103 my choice is the size of M. And it was a good choice because he feels on it very well.

Such information for having a similar problem as me. I 179cm or approximately 5'87" M and is very well suited.
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