Indeed, thanks for shedding light I didn't know was missing. I knew I was referring to the lovely Globe Roll 8, but I didn't know I was confused, which is a shame because I was on a four-to-five-day unconfused roll. :bike2:

New Roll
 

Not sure the precise miles. I got two or three flats with the stock tires. The new ones are slightly more narrow than the stock ones.

Does anybody know where I can get a set of handlebars like the ones on the Roll? I want to put them on my other bike as well but I'm not finding much. There are plenty of bars with smaller and larger rises but that 125mm rise seems perfect for what I'm doing.

Very nice, that one seriously got my eye, If I find myself getting a second roll (Im thinking its a good platform for a bafang electric build) I might go with one of these matte cammo colors.
I ended up just ordered the Comp, my dealer found me a 2018 Elite for 650$ (760$ as it's pre-tarrif model, and my dealer somehow got me 100 off more), but I decided the Comp because I
REALLY want matte paint (18' elite is glossy black), and I also bought (what will be my primary machine) the Sirrus Carbon Comp X and that is a 1x11, so why not match.
Plus this bike is so versatile, especially for Baltimore City I will have no issue selling it for close to what I paid.

I wanted to let people know you can still get 2018 models that are pre August 18' tarrif/tax. Dont assume just because your dealer doesnt have an 18' on the floor he can't get one.
The 19' elite is now 900$, same price as the Comp.
I am buying this bike blind, we only have TWO specialized dealers in Baltimore (crazy right, plenty of LBS, but they are all Trek)

Also, as I don't see a dedicated thread to Roll Owners, is this is it? Does anyone want to volunteer making one?
I take delivery of mine Friday, I will def have opinions after a 10 mile test on the hills of my city. I also am curious for mods to try and lighten the bike as well as going tubeless, and if that needs new wheels from say Easton Corp, which ones. hehe.
Love new bike day!

There are a few Roll threads. There is another one just a few down from this in the list (on the afternoon of 12 March): Specialized Roll: A new type hybrid.

They are definitely an interesting bike, with an interesting riding position. I test-rode one about this time last year. I ultimately bought a more conventional hybrid (Giant Roam, analog to the Specialized Crosstrail), but the Roll was a fun ride.

While I cannot answer your question (other to say you shoulda gotten the Elite or Comp) as this is my first disc bike I am sure your LBS is right, I just don't think it is worth the money.
My LBS owner tried to talk me out of the Elite model, saying the mechs were plenty for relaxed riding, but I really wanted the matte paint job.
My non technical advice, use the mechanical brakes until they are crappy then replace. If they suck out the box, then replace them now, otherwise there are so many other toys you could spend on.

I haven't done it on a Roll, but I have a bike with hydro discs as stock, and a MTB that came with cable discs that I converted to hydro. I absolutely recommend upgrading. There is simply no comparison between the basic mechanical discs (like the stock Promax brakes) and even basic hydro disc brakes. Both of my bikes have Shimano M315 brakes (entry level hydraulics) and cable discs just aren't in the same league. The biggest benefit of hydraulic brakes is power at the disc for the effort at the lever. It's truly one finger braking. And the lever movement is completely smooth (because you're not pulling a cable through a housing). It's not about maximum braking power (mechanical discs can be strong)...it's about how enjoyable the brakes are to use, and that benefits everyone, no matter how hard you ride your bike.

When you're at your LBS, test ride a bike with hydraulic brakes -- any bike. You'll immediately feel the difference, and you'll gladly pay whatever it costs.

Myself -- I paid about $50 for my complete set of hydraulic disc take-off brakes on eBay (the seller upgraded to higher end brakes). As long as the mechanical brakes use separate brake levers and shifters, and as long as there are provisions to attach the rear brake line all the way back, then it's pretty much a bolt-on affair.

This is where your LBS can guide you. If the Roll uses a continuous cable/housing to the rear brake and clips onto the frame (or travels back there internally), then a hydraulic brake line will travel the same path no problem. It's a little trickier if your brake line uses interrupted sections of brake cable housing with cable stops, with bare segments of brake cable. It's certainly not impossible to convert to hydraulic in this case, but you may need some small parts to help secure the hydraulic line.

It's straight forward if the hoses are magically the correct length. If not, you have to cut the lines. Most of the times I can do it without a bleed but sometimes I need a bleed. Hardware might be needed to route the hose and a new olive is needed for the cut hose. If you have integrated shifter/brakes you need to split those.

Those are the M315 brakes. After they break in and lay some pad material down on the rotors, I think you're really going to like those!

Nice bikes! I'm sure you will enjoy them.

Patriot1, thanks for the wealth of info.
I took delivery of the comp X1, 2019 as seen in the photo(Cant post pictures yet, 10 posts coming soon......).
First impressions, this bike is a cruiser with an attitude problem! For me I had a 22 mile delightful night of thrashing about the waterline of Baltimore cities inner harbor.
I was shocked at the fatigue I did not encounter. In the beginning I missed what I remember being lighter gearing on the hills but quickly got used to it.

Another thing that stuck to my memory was how invincible I was to anything on the road, from blasting full speed over old cobblestone streets (something I would have walked my 700cc bike over before lol).
What can I say, the wheels/tires are a bit heavy and a drag, but my goodness the transitions up and down sidewalks was amazing. I was always kind of a wus about going off curbs, not anymore.
And all with no shocks. I dont know if this is the only bike you should own, but if it is life will still be good.

Anyways I do have an issue and its so small and silly I hate to post it here.
Has anyone had issues adjusting the height of their saddle, and the post not staying still?
After getting the bike on the road, I adjusted the seat lower from the shop and it had some left to right action, I adjusted it again tightening the nut more, this time it was very difficult to close the Quick Release for the seat post, but there is still a tiny bit of movement.
It is the post itself I can feel it shift. Not enough to make a difference, but I never had a saddle with any give to it.
Is this an issue with the paint breaking in?
Is there something unique, proprietary or special to our post. My father took a look and thinks the post is different because it has grooves in it.
Patriot1, can you try sitting and shifting your but, do you get any play in your saddle. Thanks a million!
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