Show your Trek Multitrack!
#102
Junior Member

The old one is hanging in the garage. I stripped the parts off to build up the newer one. I’ll probably move the frame on sooner or later. Here’s what it looked like.
Last edited by Wharf Rat; 10-07-18 at 06:52 AM.
#103
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Are 720 and 750 frames identical?
Are 720 and 750 frames identical? Due to hip and knee issues I need to get a step-through frame and there is a "womans" 720 on the local CL. The bike is a '96. Are frame geometry specs available on-line somewhere?
#104
Senior Member
Page 46 is the 720 of that year. The 720 is not as nice of a frame as the 750 (full chromoly vs 3 tube chromoly)
https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...d/1996trek.pdf
The geometry specs are on page 67.
#105
High Plains Luddite
Hi all hybrid riders, i have been scouring CL and any tall Multitrack are either gone in a second...Looking for steel frame model, any color but red, 23". Earlier model the better, will pay top dollar for a garage queen. Let me know if you have anything or know of any in your local area.
Classic mountain bikes with their original rigid forks in that size are getting harder to find as well.
Fortunately I have what I need, but hanging out at this forum and the enjoyment of the hobby makes me want to have something "better" than what I'm already riding, and surfing craigslist is fun.
#106
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Thanks Katsup,
It looks like the 720 will be fine for my purposes. Stays are a little longer than the 750 which is nice and I am well equipped to add rake to the fork. Other than that geometry is identical. Since this bike is for my Copenhagen Wheel, weight isn’t a big deal. It looks like the 720s are plain ga. 4130 instead of butted. But for a step through this may be preferable. Since I’ll be running my new favorite tire, the Panaracer 43mm Gravel King SK at 30 psi, ride won’t suffer despite heavier tubes, stays and fork.
I’ll be swapping the parts with my much modified 7500, then selling the 7500.

It will be odd to have two such different Trek 720s. My other one is the original lugged, silver brazed, Reynolds 531 touring bike with the wonderful 47.5cm chainstays. Since they used CS gauge 531 instead of “Tourist” and 1/2” seatstays it’s a bit of a noodle when heavily loaded, but I don’t tour anymore. OTOH lightly loaded, it’s and absolute dream for day trips or overnighters.
It looks like the 720 will be fine for my purposes. Stays are a little longer than the 750 which is nice and I am well equipped to add rake to the fork. Other than that geometry is identical. Since this bike is for my Copenhagen Wheel, weight isn’t a big deal. It looks like the 720s are plain ga. 4130 instead of butted. But for a step through this may be preferable. Since I’ll be running my new favorite tire, the Panaracer 43mm Gravel King SK at 30 psi, ride won’t suffer despite heavier tubes, stays and fork.
I’ll be swapping the parts with my much modified 7500, then selling the 7500.

It will be odd to have two such different Trek 720s. My other one is the original lugged, silver brazed, Reynolds 531 touring bike with the wonderful 47.5cm chainstays. Since they used CS gauge 531 instead of “Tourist” and 1/2” seatstays it’s a bit of a noodle when heavily loaded, but I don’t tour anymore. OTOH lightly loaded, it’s and absolute dream for day trips or overnighters.
.
Page 46 is the 720 of that year. The 720 is not as nice of a frame as the 750 (full chromoly vs 3 tube chromoly)
https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...d/1996trek.pdf
The geometry specs are on page 67.
Page 46 is the 720 of that year. The 720 is not as nice of a frame as the 750 (full chromoly vs 3 tube chromoly)
https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...d/1996trek.pdf
The geometry specs are on page 67.
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#107
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I put a new drivetrain on my 1997 Trek 750 this weekend. The original STX components looked great, but had some slop in them from use. On went some take-off derailers that I had from another bike, a very nice Sugino 30/40/50 triple crank, and an 14-32 7-speed HG50 cassette that I bought NOS locally earlier this year. It turned out nice and rides wonderfully still.

IMG_20181013_144601893 by jnjadcock, on Flickr

IMG_20181013_144553437 by jnjadcock, on Flickr

IMG_20181013_172223388_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr

IMG_20181013_144601893 by jnjadcock, on Flickr

IMG_20181013_144553437 by jnjadcock, on Flickr

IMG_20181013_172223388_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr
#108
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I thought I would post in this thread for some ideas about what to do next. I'm picking up this '91 or '92 750 this weekend. It is in good shape (though not the colour I wanted - that can wait). The frame has a slight dent and a little surface rust at a scrape point but nothing major.
The seller has a Shimano 600 headset he will part with as well since the original as installed has a little play in it. The 750 is so light compared to my aluminum Norco hybrid. Right now it is 1x7 which is perfect for my commuting and errands usage. I like the north roads style handlebars, but I'd like to upgrade to a better unit but I'm not sure about that v. a flat bar. Any suggestions? I'm not going to do a drop bar conversion since I've got drops on my Voyageur (I've got my eye on the Nitto Noodle for that...)
Thoughts?
The seller has a Shimano 600 headset he will part with as well since the original as installed has a little play in it. The 750 is so light compared to my aluminum Norco hybrid. Right now it is 1x7 which is perfect for my commuting and errands usage. I like the north roads style handlebars, but I'd like to upgrade to a better unit but I'm not sure about that v. a flat bar. Any suggestions? I'm not going to do a drop bar conversion since I've got drops on my Voyageur (I've got my eye on the Nitto Noodle for that...)
Thoughts?

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#109
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I thought I would post in this thread for some ideas about what to do next. I'm picking up this '91 or '92 750 this weekend. It is in good shape (though not the colour I wanted - that can wait). The frame has a slight dent and a little surface rust at a scrape point but nothing major.
The seller has a Shimano 600 headset he will part with as well since the original as installed has a little play in it. The 750 is so light compared to my aluminum Norco hybrid. Right now it is 1x7 which is perfect for my commuting and errands usage. I like the north roads style handlebars, but I'd like to upgrade to a better unit but I'm not sure about that v. a flat bar. Any suggestions? I'm not going to do a drop bar conversion since I've got drops on my Voyageur (I've got my eye on the Nitto Noodle for that...)
Thoughts?

The seller has a Shimano 600 headset he will part with as well since the original as installed has a little play in it. The 750 is so light compared to my aluminum Norco hybrid. Right now it is 1x7 which is perfect for my commuting and errands usage. I like the north roads style handlebars, but I'd like to upgrade to a better unit but I'm not sure about that v. a flat bar. Any suggestions? I'm not going to do a drop bar conversion since I've got drops on my Voyageur (I've got my eye on the Nitto Noodle for that...)
Thoughts?

Ruben in So Cal
#110
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well, it looks like everyone is having fun in my absence! Whoops, I may have forgotten about this thread that I started! Anywho... this is the current state of my 720. It is now used by both my wife and I to tow the weehoo around everywhere. It's doing a great job of it, too!

#111
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Well, it looks like everyone is having fun in my absence! Whoops, I may have forgotten about this thread that I started! Anywho... this is the current state of my 720. It is now used by both my wife and I to tow the weehoo around everywhere. It's doing a great job of it, too!
Is the weehoo the kid or the trailer j/k.

#112
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, we moved away from all the cool mountain biking trails so it's used for road and gravel now. I do actually have the orange knife still attached, but it's on the other side of the feedbag, and you can't see it in that pic. I am mainly riding this other Trek (really a newer version of the Multitracks), and it is great too, but doesn't have the tire clearance of my 720.

#113
Senior Member
So I have a 1991 Trek 730 that I recently rebuilt a bit. And I do love it. But I've noticed that when I ride with no hands (not a habit) that it's considerably less stable than when I ride my 1981 Bianchi road bike. I don't think this is a big deal, but I was wondering if anyone could help me understand why this might be. Frame geometry?
#114
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Not sure how I missed this thread before, the Multitrack is one of my favorite frames!
I need to take some better photos, but here's my partner's '91 750:


I can't find it now, but somewhere around here I've seen a 7900 built with Jones loop bars, which is pretty rad. I think that's how I'm going to build my '90 520.
I need to take some better photos, but here's my partner's '91 750:


I can't find it now, but somewhere around here I've seen a 7900 built with Jones loop bars, which is pretty rad. I think that's how I'm going to build my '90 520.
#115
Virgo
My new to me 700, 23" frame. It belonged to the dad of the guy I bought it from who evidently rarely used it then gave it to his son for college - he used it lightly then and parked it for 10 years or so. He put new wheels on it before he parked it and sold it to me for his asking price, $25. I will be using it for my 25 mile daily R/T commute. Prior to this, I'd been using old 10 and 12 speeds with drop bars for my commute, so I appreciate all the gears, the wider tires, and the better visibility from the more upright position. I have fenders on the way. I was surprised that I only lose about 2mph average from the drop bar bikes, and that's with the 38mm tires that came with the bike, Specialized extra thick heavy treaded commuter whatever, something like 800g/tire. No upgrades yet, but I have a spare set of wheels with a 14-34 so it'll be nice to keep some 32mm road slicks on the set with the taller gears and wider tires/studs on the set with lower gears. Well, I moved the saddle up since I took this photo - feels like an upgrade. The riser stem put the bars way too high for me so I slammed it and rotated the bars forward, then ended up swapping it out for one of my road stems which is working pretty well for now. Overall, quite a nice bike. I think it'll take whatever my commute will throw at it. I may play with drop bars at some point, but would have to make some decisions about the shifting (STI vs. bar ends). These really are great bikes. I feel like I robbed a bank getting mine for $25. Sorry for poor quality photo, it was cold and my phone camera lens was foggy! It's the blue to purple fade, I think a '95 or '96 or thereabouts. Everything Shimano Altus. It all works smoothly, only took 1/2 turn of the RD adjustment screw to get everything shifting/indexing well.

#117
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Yeah, that's a great price on that bike. It looks like it's in real good shape. Nicely done!
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Bummer. I was hoping to share my new old Multrack but alas being a newbie, I can't yet post images. It is a beauty though. About three weeks ago I picked up a pristine 1991 Trek 750 on Craig's list for $175. Maybe a little high, but I have had a Trek 990 since 1992, always coveted the big brother and this one was in such good condition. It was always garaged and almost never ridden. The original tires appeared to have maybe 500-1000 miles on them.
After replacing cables, brake pads, and servicing, it was ready to roll. The icing on the cake is that I scored a new set of Gravel King 43mm tires from a local frame builder who used them once for a photo shoot for $40. The black on black bike looks bad-ass with the 43mm black and brown Gravel Kings.
The bike is all original other than the tires. It has the full Suntour XCE groupset and I plan to keep it running as long as I can. This is my first bike with Suntour gear and I understand that it does not play well with Shimano gear. So modernizing bits and pieces of the drivetrain is probably not wise. Here is where a picture of the bike on it's first adventure would be:
< Imagine a bad-ass Black Trek 750, with brown wall Gravel Kings covered in mud and leaning against a rail fence with Autumn leaves everywhere>
After replacing cables, brake pads, and servicing, it was ready to roll. The icing on the cake is that I scored a new set of Gravel King 43mm tires from a local frame builder who used them once for a photo shoot for $40. The black on black bike looks bad-ass with the 43mm black and brown Gravel Kings.
The bike is all original other than the tires. It has the full Suntour XCE groupset and I plan to keep it running as long as I can. This is my first bike with Suntour gear and I understand that it does not play well with Shimano gear. So modernizing bits and pieces of the drivetrain is probably not wise. Here is where a picture of the bike on it's first adventure would be:
< Imagine a bad-ass Black Trek 750, with brown wall Gravel Kings covered in mud and leaning against a rail fence with Autumn leaves everywhere>
#119
Senior Member
Bummer. I was hoping to share my new old Multrack but alas being a newbie, I can't yet post images. It is a beauty though. About three weeks ago I picked up a pristine 1991 Trek 750 on Craig's list for $175. Maybe a little high, but I have had a Trek 990 since 1992, always coveted the big brother and this one was in such good condition. It was always garaged and almost never ridden. The original tires appeared to have maybe 500-1000 miles on them.
After replacing cables, brake pads, and servicing, it was ready to roll. The icing on the cake is that I scored a new set of Gravel King 43mm tires from a local frame builder who used them once for a photo shoot for $40. The black on black bike looks bad-ass with the 43mm black and brown Gravel Kings.
The bike is all original other than the tires. It has the full Suntour XCE groupset and I plan to keep it running as long as I can. This is my first bike with Suntour gear and I understand that it does not play well with Shimano gear. So modernizing bits and pieces of the drivetrain is probably not wise. Here is where a picture of the bike on it's first adventure would be:
< Imagine a bad-ass Black Trek 750, with brown wall Gravel Kings covered in mud and leaning against a rail fence with Autumn leaves everywhere>
After replacing cables, brake pads, and servicing, it was ready to roll. The icing on the cake is that I scored a new set of Gravel King 43mm tires from a local frame builder who used them once for a photo shoot for $40. The black on black bike looks bad-ass with the 43mm black and brown Gravel Kings.
The bike is all original other than the tires. It has the full Suntour XCE groupset and I plan to keep it running as long as I can. This is my first bike with Suntour gear and I understand that it does not play well with Shimano gear. So modernizing bits and pieces of the drivetrain is probably not wise. Here is where a picture of the bike on it's first adventure would be:
< Imagine a bad-ass Black Trek 750, with brown wall Gravel Kings covered in mud and leaning against a rail fence with Autumn leaves everywhere>
#121
Virgo
Another week and 125 more miles logged on my 700.
Even after swapping to a road stem, I’m starting to have my doubts about the flat bars. It always feels pretty good until after about 30 minutes into the ride I find myself wishing I could move my hands and shift my weight around. I have sufficient doubts that I have ordered a set of old Suntour ratcheting barends off eBay and am working on the math for the right stem to buy to get a pair of drop bars somewhere around saddle height at the reach I want, somewhere around a cm or two less than what I had been using on my roadies. I think it’ll end up being a 100-120cm with a 20-30deg rise. The stock stem is a 105/45deg rise, ends up being about a 50mm reach, pretty short. I did mock it up with the stock stem just to get a ballpark idea and the reach to the hoods was quite too short I think to be comfortable over longer distances, shorter even than the reach with the flat bars and road stem. Just having the hoods at saddle height was a big difference from 2 1/2” below as on the drop bar bikes.
I also have fenders on the way, after two full weeks of deliberation I finally decided on the matte black SKS 45mm Bluemels. I already like the SKS system from working with it on my wife’s bike (though some say it’s a pain, I don’t mind taking my time to get it right) and the comparable Planet Bike models were generally $10 more. The Bluemels are offered in a bunch of different styles and colors all for around the same price. I like the matte black ones because they have the long mud flaps from the Longboards only they’re a little shorter (I had concerns about picking up debris with the Longboard front flap which hangs so low it looks like a scoop), and the $10 savings over the ‘boards is helpful. I’ll have to update after they’ve arrived and I’ve got them on.
The weather today was nice and I had a couple free hours this afternoon so I went for a jaunt up the greenway and back. The greenway on our end of town begins at a city park 3 miles from home. On my way home I decided to do a lap around the park instead of just riding through and out, and decided also to see what the trails were like. I’d never ridden any trails of any sort before on any bike, so it was kind of a cool experience. I was very impressed with how easy it was to maneuver around roots and rocks and stuff with the wider tires, and they’re tready and grippy enough that with some careful pedaling I was able to climb a narrow sort of zig-zaggy hill covered in slimy wet leaves without spinning out. I figured out what granny gear is for. The park was empty so I took my time and rode up and down some of the different single track type trails I could find, I spent probably a half hour in the woods. It was pretty great. It’s not hard to understand why trail riding is popular, I’d simply never tried it. It’s really cool to be able to take the same bike to work, to the store, and the park over roads, paths, and trail. I wonder about how the handling and off-road-ability will be affected by adding drop bars, but I’m not afraid to go try and find out. I think it’ll be fine. Cyclocross seems to agree.
My shoulders, wrists, and back are suggesting I spend a little too much time on the bike to use the flat bar.
I went to adjust the front brakes and discovered that the front left caliper is busted, missing the plastic bushing that houses the spring. It works OK without it, but I’m not crazy about leaving it that way. Cantis seem to be cheap to replace, and it’s not hard to find a pair that uses the threaded post type pads (that I prefer, easier to adjust) as opposed to the stock smooth post ones. I don’t care if front and rear don’t match. I prefer the cantis so far over any of the sidepulls and centerpulls I’ve had on my road bikes.
All in all, so far I think this is a great bike. Whether I keep it flat bar or change to drops, it’s a big improvement over the drop bar bikes I was commuting on. The wider tires (38 vs 25-32) do a lot to dampen some of the harsher road imperfections and inspire a little more confidence when turning for instance when surfaces are slick. The triple crank and 11-28 cassette give me sufficient options for varying road, wind, and “engine” conditions - for me, meaning no matter how windy, how steep, or how tired I am feeling, I always have a gear I can spin if I just want to spin (the tall gearing and 2x crank of the road bikes meant that I was getting a workout whether I wanted one or not!). It may be a little “too” easy, in reality. The jump from the 32t to 38t chainring is pretty gentle. I might like to have a 40 or 42 sticking with the same cassette, which I really like while using the two smaller chainrings. I’m not sure about whether these chainrings are replaceable or riveted together but I think I’ve seen new comparable Shimano cranksets for less than $40 which is a pretty reasonable cost compared to a new road crank, brand name or no.
Also, regardless of personalized cockpit differences, I’d say these are great commuter bikes in general. Cheap, comfortable, easy to repair/upgrade, sturdy, room for wide tires AND fenders, strong brakes, not ULTRA heavy, etc. I’m enjoying it so much I haven’t used either of my road bikes since I got this one. I definitely feel like I’ve gotten my $25 worth.

Even after swapping to a road stem, I’m starting to have my doubts about the flat bars. It always feels pretty good until after about 30 minutes into the ride I find myself wishing I could move my hands and shift my weight around. I have sufficient doubts that I have ordered a set of old Suntour ratcheting barends off eBay and am working on the math for the right stem to buy to get a pair of drop bars somewhere around saddle height at the reach I want, somewhere around a cm or two less than what I had been using on my roadies. I think it’ll end up being a 100-120cm with a 20-30deg rise. The stock stem is a 105/45deg rise, ends up being about a 50mm reach, pretty short. I did mock it up with the stock stem just to get a ballpark idea and the reach to the hoods was quite too short I think to be comfortable over longer distances, shorter even than the reach with the flat bars and road stem. Just having the hoods at saddle height was a big difference from 2 1/2” below as on the drop bar bikes.
I also have fenders on the way, after two full weeks of deliberation I finally decided on the matte black SKS 45mm Bluemels. I already like the SKS system from working with it on my wife’s bike (though some say it’s a pain, I don’t mind taking my time to get it right) and the comparable Planet Bike models were generally $10 more. The Bluemels are offered in a bunch of different styles and colors all for around the same price. I like the matte black ones because they have the long mud flaps from the Longboards only they’re a little shorter (I had concerns about picking up debris with the Longboard front flap which hangs so low it looks like a scoop), and the $10 savings over the ‘boards is helpful. I’ll have to update after they’ve arrived and I’ve got them on.
The weather today was nice and I had a couple free hours this afternoon so I went for a jaunt up the greenway and back. The greenway on our end of town begins at a city park 3 miles from home. On my way home I decided to do a lap around the park instead of just riding through and out, and decided also to see what the trails were like. I’d never ridden any trails of any sort before on any bike, so it was kind of a cool experience. I was very impressed with how easy it was to maneuver around roots and rocks and stuff with the wider tires, and they’re tready and grippy enough that with some careful pedaling I was able to climb a narrow sort of zig-zaggy hill covered in slimy wet leaves without spinning out. I figured out what granny gear is for. The park was empty so I took my time and rode up and down some of the different single track type trails I could find, I spent probably a half hour in the woods. It was pretty great. It’s not hard to understand why trail riding is popular, I’d simply never tried it. It’s really cool to be able to take the same bike to work, to the store, and the park over roads, paths, and trail. I wonder about how the handling and off-road-ability will be affected by adding drop bars, but I’m not afraid to go try and find out. I think it’ll be fine. Cyclocross seems to agree.
My shoulders, wrists, and back are suggesting I spend a little too much time on the bike to use the flat bar.
I went to adjust the front brakes and discovered that the front left caliper is busted, missing the plastic bushing that houses the spring. It works OK without it, but I’m not crazy about leaving it that way. Cantis seem to be cheap to replace, and it’s not hard to find a pair that uses the threaded post type pads (that I prefer, easier to adjust) as opposed to the stock smooth post ones. I don’t care if front and rear don’t match. I prefer the cantis so far over any of the sidepulls and centerpulls I’ve had on my road bikes.
All in all, so far I think this is a great bike. Whether I keep it flat bar or change to drops, it’s a big improvement over the drop bar bikes I was commuting on. The wider tires (38 vs 25-32) do a lot to dampen some of the harsher road imperfections and inspire a little more confidence when turning for instance when surfaces are slick. The triple crank and 11-28 cassette give me sufficient options for varying road, wind, and “engine” conditions - for me, meaning no matter how windy, how steep, or how tired I am feeling, I always have a gear I can spin if I just want to spin (the tall gearing and 2x crank of the road bikes meant that I was getting a workout whether I wanted one or not!). It may be a little “too” easy, in reality. The jump from the 32t to 38t chainring is pretty gentle. I might like to have a 40 or 42 sticking with the same cassette, which I really like while using the two smaller chainrings. I’m not sure about whether these chainrings are replaceable or riveted together but I think I’ve seen new comparable Shimano cranksets for less than $40 which is a pretty reasonable cost compared to a new road crank, brand name or no.
Also, regardless of personalized cockpit differences, I’d say these are great commuter bikes in general. Cheap, comfortable, easy to repair/upgrade, sturdy, room for wide tires AND fenders, strong brakes, not ULTRA heavy, etc. I’m enjoying it so much I haven’t used either of my road bikes since I got this one. I definitely feel like I’ve gotten my $25 worth.

Last edited by Phamilton; 11-24-18 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Various, for clarity
#122
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A few weeks ago I picked up a very lightly used 1991 750 from Craig's list on Long Island. It looked like it had been garaged for years and judging by the wear on the original tires, it maybe ridden only 500-1000 miles since 1991. This is the bike as I picked it up after taking off the original stock reflectors. Note that it still has the original Matrix tires. They had a lot of tread but felt pretty crumbly.

All it really needed was new tires, brake pads, thurough servicing and new cables. Here is my new old 750 on my first real ride on the Old Croton Aquaduct Trail in the Hudson River Valley. A perfect Autumn day albeit a bit muddy.

I considered doing a drop bar conversion but decided to keep it pretty much as is for now. The only changes I'm planning to make at this point are:
- Replace the big ol' Vetta Gel saddle a modern Specialized Henge saddle (done today)
- Swap the XCE XPress Accushift shifters with XC Pro Accushift Thumbies (scored on eBay last week)
- Replace the stock bar with one with more sweep like a Soma Clarence

All it really needed was new tires, brake pads, thurough servicing and new cables. Here is my new old 750 on my first real ride on the Old Croton Aquaduct Trail in the Hudson River Valley. A perfect Autumn day albeit a bit muddy.

I considered doing a drop bar conversion but decided to keep it pretty much as is for now. The only changes I'm planning to make at this point are:
- Replace the big ol' Vetta Gel saddle a modern Specialized Henge saddle (done today)
- Swap the XCE XPress Accushift shifters with XC Pro Accushift Thumbies (scored on eBay last week)
- Replace the stock bar with one with more sweep like a Soma Clarence
#124
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