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Aluminium Hybrid Bike From Brazil

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Aluminium Hybrid Bike From Brazil

Old 10-27-21, 08:53 AM
  #1  
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Cool Aluminium Hybrid Bike From Brazil

Hi guys, my name is Giuliano and i am from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and I come here to share with you my hybrid.

Frame: 17" Triple Butted, conformed, mono seatstay (Same than Schwinn Super Sport)

Fork: Sense Activ Alumínium, post mont invisible Weld
FH: TX505
RH: MT500 cup/cone
Rims Sentec
Pneus Chaoyang Kestrel 700x38 (Bontrager LT2 38C Kevlar reserved for trips)
Anti-pucture tape Tectire
Brakes MT200
Crown SunRace NW stell 36D (Sunrace 36D 7075 coming, 100g less)
Crank Mt300 175mm
BB Shimano
Chain KMC X12 Silver
K7 SLX 10-51
RD M6100
Shifter M6100
Stem Sentec 90mm 7º (UNO advanced project same size coming 50g less)
Steatpost UNO SP700 advanced project
Handbar Aluminium generic (UNO advanced project coming 50g less)
Saddle Sele Italia trans am ldy magnesium trails
Pedals Absolute Nero alumínium assimetrical face for better turns


About geometry:

1005,75 wheelbase
27,2 cm BB height from floor to center
BB drop 80mm like enduro geometry.


Weight: 11,64Kg Without new parts or tires...

W8ing opinions!

Last edited by Dragum; 08-13-22 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 10-27-21, 09:28 AM
  #2  
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Why would you go 700x38c when you could go 27.5x2.00?
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Old 10-27-21, 09:42 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
Why would you go 700x38c when you could go 27.5x2.00?
700x38 rolls better in asphalt, and here in Brazil we don't have 27,5 parts easy. To complete: i had this rims and I don't spend money in there.


AND....

the fork don't have clearence to 2.0

Last edited by Dragum; 10-27-21 at 09:46 AM.
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Old 10-27-21, 01:18 PM
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Pic assist. Nice looking bike!!

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Old 10-27-21, 01:24 PM
  #5  
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Thanks hokiefyd

In my dreams the frame will be dark purple and the fork orange copper... Maybe in the future...

Last edited by Dragum; 10-29-21 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 11-03-21, 07:13 AM
  #6  
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Project finished. It only remains to paint.

Frame: 17" Triple Butted, conformed, mono seatstay (Same than Schwinn Super Sport)
Fork: Sense Activ Alumínium, post mont invisible Weld
FH: TX505
RH: MT500 cup/cone
Rims Sentec
Pneus MAXXIS refuse 60TPI dualcompound 700x40c
Brakes MT200
Crown Sunrace 36D 7075
Crank Mt300 175mm
BB Shimano
Chain KMC X12 Silver
K7 SLX 10-51
RD M6100
Shifter M6100
Stem UNO advanced project 90mm 7º
Steatpost UNO SP700 advanced project
Handbar Aluminium UNO advanced project
Saddle Sele Italia trans am ldy magnesium trails
Pedals Absolute Nero alumínium assimetrical face for better turns



10.640g without pedals.
​​​​​​

Last edited by Dragum; 11-04-21 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 11-04-21, 04:17 PM
  #7  
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More pics bellow:
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Old 11-04-21, 04:18 PM
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Last edited by Dragum; 11-04-21 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 11-06-21, 08:25 AM
  #9  
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One think i love is a very aligned frames, before i change the custom parts, i verify if all stays line up and after too. I use my smartphone camera to do this test. The frame and all the set still perfect. This bike have 3 aligned points: seatstay, seattube cut (with bandnew tires), and headtube. But only with 2 of them yu can check your bike too.





Second pov alignment

Last edited by Dragum; 05-21-22 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 11-07-21, 11:43 AM
  #10  
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In Action

49Km Roundtrip in 4 hours with waterfall shower.







Whith 2017 Qick 7 cromo fork


Last edited by Dragum; 11-07-21 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 11-07-21, 05:54 PM
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dude, youre livin the good life
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Old 11-09-21, 04:33 PM
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Wow the scenery…I am
so jealous. My wife and I want to
go visit there some time.
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Old 01-29-22, 07:04 PM
  #13  
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Other Brazilian hybrid bike, this with a exclusive superligth frameset. The Sense Activ urban 700 (12Kg). Your geometry are strange, with 55mm of bb drop, and your wellbase is very long and actualy stay with 0,6111 reduction and 3.63 of top speed.

Last edited by Dragum; 05-18-22 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 05-18-22, 06:16 AM
  #14  
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A 1993 Caloi Aluminium SuperCross

cromo fork
alloy frame 19” over steering.
Shimano group
original 700 rims

like a Brazilian trek 7500.






Alignment test



About tri-cell tecnology from Caloi



With pedals and water bottle suport





Last edited by Dragum; 05-23-22 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 05-18-22, 06:11 PM
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on the subject of frame alignment -

I had a couple early 90's Cannondale road bikes - including a R800 (with 2.8 frame)

One thing I noticed when riding the R800 was it was a challenge to ride with hands off the bars

A frame builder checked the frame - and both frame and fork were bad / not aligned
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Old 05-18-22, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by t2p
on the subject of frame alignment -

I had a couple early 90's Cannondale road bikes - including a R800 (with 2.8 frame)

One thing I noticed when riding the R800 was it was a challenge to ride with hands off the bars

A frame builder checked the frame - and both frame and fork were bad / not aligned
about this:

I'm a perfectionist, maybe I have ocd.
I found that by taking pictures of this rear angle of the bikes it is possible to analyze the frame alignment without the help of a professional. Using this technique, I collect photos of bikes out of alignment. The Sense Activ 2021 above was not fully aligned, I sent it in for warranty and they sent me an equally crooked one, I gave up on the model and sold it, but I had a 2020, with old geometry, identifiable because it was matte black, and it was good, but it was stolen from me (Brazil). If you want, I'll post pictures of new bikes with bad alignment, I have some. Unfortunately I lost the photo of the Gary Fisher Marlin 1994 cromoly with a slightly crooked headtube, but I have other examples (maybe this photo is in the backup of the old cell phone at my in-laws house). It's also sold. The only problem with this technique of detection through photos is that, depending on the background of the photo, it is difficult to come to a conclusion, the ideal is a light background. Sometimes I buy the bike and I can only be sure at home, but I always try to find out at the time of purchase if the alignment is good using my cell phone.

PS: even crooked, it's possible to pilot without hands without realizing it, to affect that, it has to be a serious case






I spun the wheel, changed the tires, checked the spoke alignment, and the result is always the same. When this happens, even changing the fit of the axis in the frame, a perfect result is impossible. And that way I don't like it.







now a 15” city tour 2021 crooked






Last edited by Dragum; 05-19-22 at 04:34 AM.
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Old 05-19-22, 06:31 AM
  #17  
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A tire that's slightly off-center with the seat post doesn't necessarily mean the frame is tweaked or out of alignment. It may just mean that the dish of the wheel does not perfectly center the rim and tire in that specific frame, and some tweaking of the dish (with spoke tension) is required. This is not all that uncommon. I think it's fair to say that there's much more to frame alignment than rear tire alignment and I'd even say that some clever dishing of the rear wheel could hide true alignment issues with the frame.
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Old 05-19-22, 09:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
A tire that's slightly off-center with the seat post doesn't necessarily mean the frame is tweaked or out of alignment. It may just mean that the dish of the wheel does not perfectly center the rim and tire in that specific frame, and some tweaking of the dish (with spoke tension) is required. This is not all that uncommon. I think it's fair to say that there's much more to frame alignment than rear tire alignment and I'd even say that some clever dishing of the rear wheel could hide true alignment issues with the frame.
"I spun the wheel, changed the tires, checked the spoke alignment, and the result is always the same. When this happens, even changing the fit of the axis in the frame, a perfect result is impossible. And that way I don't like it."


I spend money and time, in these two cases mentioned above, nothing worked: the center the rim and tire was verified with professional tool, the tire was changed to confirm, if was possible take the perfect photo, i would make. In my opinion, is hard to find a perfect frame than we think, here in Brazil at least.

I take more than 200 photos by bike, i try anythink. Some bikes is easy, some bikes is impossible to find the alignment, for me, its results in a good conclusion about the alignment of the frame.

Last edited by Dragum; 05-19-22 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 05-19-22, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragum
"I spun the wheel, changed the tires, checked the spoke alignment, and the result is always the same. When this happens, even changing the fit of the axis in the frame, a perfect result is impossible. And that way I don't like it."
I guess it would help to understand what your goal is. Are you looking to have the tire/rim perfectly aligned with the seat post, as you look at the bike from behind? Based on the photos you've posted so far, that seems to be your measure of perfect alignment, so I'll presume this is your goal.

If the tire/rim is currently aligned to the left of the seat post, then you would need to adjust the spokes to move the rim to the right. That is, tighten the drive side spoke nipples and/or loosen the non-drive side spoke nipples. It's not difficult to do, but it's also possible to really mess up how true the wheel spins, so some care must be used. You said you checked the spoke alignment, but I don't understand quite what that means. You (or a bike shop) should be able to change the dish of a wheel by a moderate amount by using spoke tension alone. Park Tool has a great video on this:

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Old 05-19-22, 11:19 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I guess it would help to understand what your goal is.
check the complete alignment of the frameset, when the wheel is fully aligned using that tool you sited (the mechanic of the store uses parktool)
Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Are you looking to have the tire/rim perfectly aligned with the seat post, as you look at the bike from behind?
Check the aligned of the seatstay (and seat post); the aligned of the fork too, and the aligned of the headtube. All the aligned of the frameset and wheel, when the wheel are perfect centred with the professionals tools.

Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Based on the photos you've posted so far, that seems to be your measure of perfect alignment, so I'll presume this is your goal.
In the City Tour 17" (whith yellow details) are perfect. In the Caloi SuperCross too, perfectly aligned. BUT in the Sense Activ and in the Caloi City Tour 15" - the last one -, aren't aligned. And is impossible take a aligned photo in this frames, like i said i try a lot and is impossible.
Originally Posted by hokiefyd
If the tire/rim is currently aligned to the left of the seat post, then you would need to adjust the spokes to move the rim to the right.
If i do that, the wheel don't be aligned in the parktool tool.
Originally Posted by hokiefyd
That is, tighten the drive side spoke nipples and/or loosen the non-drive side spoke nipples. It's not difficult to do, but it's also possible to really mess up how true the wheel spins, so some care must be used. You said you checked the spoke alignment, but I don't understand quite what that means. You (or a bike shop) should be able to change the dish of a wheel by a moderate amount by using spoke tension alone. Park Tool has a great video on this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqeEBih8kx0
When I say that I have checked the alignment of the spokes, I mean that a professional has centered the wheel, using a professional tool (parktool), and that, with the wheel centered, the tension of the spokes has been adjusted and is adequate. Even so, the wheel does not align with the rest of the frame. If I try to compensate for the wheel misalignment with the frame, the wheel doesn't be ok in the parktool tool. And even trying to compensate, it's not perfect, because the problem is in the alignment of the frame, really. If looks ok after compensate, but the wheel dont't be aligned in the parktool tool, I dont like, because wasn't realy ok.

Last edited by Dragum; 05-19-22 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 05-20-22, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dragum
If I try to compensate for the wheel misalignment with the frame, the wheel doesn't be ok in the parktool tool. And even trying to compensate, it's not perfect, because the problem is in the alignment of the frame, really. If looks ok after compensate, but the wheel dont't be aligned in the parktool tool, I dont like, because wasn't realy ok.
I see what you're saying. I have several bikes that use 700c wheels and have 135mm hub spacing, and I do swap wheels around every now and then. And I'll say that, in my experience, the frame alignment that you're after is rarely precisely perfect. If I swap a wheel from one bike to another, the tire may be left or right by a mm or two. It's usually pretty easy to adjust the brakes to compensate. It sounds like you have a wheel where the rim is perfectly centered on the hub lock nuts, but you're having trouble finding a frame that will accept that wheel and have the rim be perfectly centered in the frame (and I can see the off-centered nature of your pictures -- but they're not off by much). In this case, I'd personally just align the wheel to the frame and ride the bike. If you routinely swap wheels between bikes, then you may need to shoot for a compromise that works well for most situations, even if it's not perfect.
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Old 08-13-22, 08:51 AM
  #22  
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Actual set:

Frame: Caloi Aluminum SuperCross 19” 1993 tricell tecnology 700c
Fork: Caloi SuperCross 1993 oversize quill cromoly 700c (950g)
Handlebar: three heads 580mm 6261 t6
Steam: Trek Matrix 88mm reach cromoly (305g)
Grips: silicon chinese democracy like esi
Breakes: Shimano V-brake T4000 with T4000 levers
Shifters: 3x9 Shimano M3100
SeatPost: TranzX 26.8 alloy 350mm (320g)
Saddle: DDK 3166 (350g)
Crank: Shimano M4050 22-30-40 175mm 27v
Botom Bracket: Shimano BB-52
Chain: Shimano Hg 9v
Hub: Shimano Claris 2400 32h
Cassete: Shimano 11-36 9V
Front Derailleur: Shimano M2000
Rear Derailleur: Shimano M3100
Rim: HJC Da-21 6061 32h Double hall
Spokes: inox
Tires: 2 x Bontrager Lt2 Expert kevlar (485g) 38C
Pedals: Caloi plastic 1993 (320g)

weight with pedals: 11,790 kg





Last edited by Dragum; 08-13-22 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 09-05-22, 06:24 PM
  #23  
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Returning to 72mm bb drop with mosso m5 and below 11kg liquid weight with wellgo m20 pedals




Last edited by Dragum; 12-03-22 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 10-16-22, 02:41 AM
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Old 11-28-22, 07:41 PM
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Front hub tx505 to m4050 Crow Sunrace to Made in BR Notable 12v Grips rubbler original Caloi to CranckBrothers Cobalt (-100g) Chain kmc x12 to Shimano XTR RD m6100 to RD m7100 SLX New k7 SLX Brakes MT200 to M6100 New weight ~10.9kg (less than previous 10.99kg)


Front hub tx505 to m4050
Chainring Sunrace mx 36d to Made in BR Nottable 12v 36d
Grips rubber original Caloi to CranckBrothers Cobalt (-100g)
Chain kmc x12 to Shimano XTR
RD m6100 to RD m7100 SLX
New k7 SLX
Brakes MT200 to M6100

New weight 10.86Kg.


Frame: 17" Triple Butted 6061, conformed, mono seatstay (Same than Schwinn Super Sport) (1680g)
Fork: Mosso M5 (445mm atc) Triple Butted 7075 with 21,5cm of steerer (785g*)
Seat Clamp: (25g)
Steerer spacer: 3 x 5mm Alloy (15g)
Steering Box: (150g)
FH: Alivio M4050 cup/cone 32h (260g*)
RH: MT500 cup/cone 32h (510g)
Rims: Sentec 32h X2 (1100g)
Air Chamber: Pirelli 45c X2 (270g)
Rim Tape: Zéfal coton X2 (40g*)
Spokes: 14g stainless X64 (500g)
Niples: (20g)
Tires: Maxxis Refuse dual compound 700x40C X2 (1050g)
Brakes: M6100 with fluid and cutted lines (605*)
Rotors: Sm-RT10 160mm X2 (400g)
Chainring: NW Nottable 36D 12V (60g*)
Crank: Mt300 175mm (755g*)
BB: Shimano MT500 (95g)
Chain: XTR M9100 (245g)
K7: SLX 10-51 (535g*)
RD: M7100 (315g)
Shifter: M6100 with panel with cable (140g)
Conduit: (55g)
Stem: Uno Advanced Project Super Light 90mm 6º Alloy with stell fuse (105g)
Steatpost: UNO SP700 advanced project 27,2mm X 350mm (cutted) Alloy with Stell fuse (275g*)
Handbar: UNO Hb-Fb12l advanced project 620mm (cutted) Alloy (235g)
Saddle: Sele Italia trans am ldy magnesium trails (305g*)
Grips: CrankBrothers Cobalt (70g*)
Pedals: Wellgo M20 (260g*)

TOTAL: 10860g

About geometry:

BB drop 71mm



Last edited by Dragum; 12-26-22 at 08:02 PM.
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