cranks loose but the bolt is tight
11-18-22, 08:36 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
cranks loose but the bolt is tight
Hi my trek cranks are loose but the boltis tight can feel them moving when pedaling how do i fix that? Will i hurt anything by ridiing it with them loose? Is it time for a new bb.? tia
Last edited by whydoibike93; 11-18-22 at 09:21 PM.
11-18-22, 10:10 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,163
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
854 Posts
Sounds like a square taper crank. Riding with it loose just makes it worse. Its actually the crank that is shot, wear on the inside of the crank makes it loose. Usually caused by a loose bolt allowing the crank to move. 'Ya need a new crank. Note as well, the square taper shaft is steel, the crank is aluminum. Crank loses in those situations.
Last edited by Steve B.; 11-19-22 at 09:46 AM.
Likes For Steve B.:
11-20-22, 05:05 PM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Update went to my lbs yeasterday morning and the guy told me that my spindle is moving and not the ctlranks how do i fix that?
11-20-22, 09:11 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 605
Bikes: Soma Double Cross Disc (2017), red Hardrock FS (circa 1996)
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 109 Times
in
73 Posts
Need more info: is it a cartridge bottom bracket? Is it square taper? Maybe some photos?
What does the guy at the LBS say?
What does the guy at the LBS say?
11-20-22, 09:45 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South shore, L.I., NY
Posts: 6,163
Bikes: Flyxii FR322, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2740 Post(s)
Liked 1,471 Times
in
854 Posts
Unless you have the tools to get the crank off and the tools to tighten the bottom bracket, why not have the shop do it ??
11-20-22, 11:22 PM
#8
Doesn't brain good.
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,459
Bikes: 5 good ones, and the occasional project.
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1356 Post(s)
Liked 1,094 Times
in
627 Posts
Cheap bikes often have non-cartridge bearings. Instead they have a fixed cup, & an adjustable cup with a lock ring. The adjustment likely needs to be revisited.
The exact tools needed will vary depending on the bottom bracket you have. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/categ...bottom-bracket
Probably HCW-4, or HCW-5, a pin spanner of some variety and maybe a crescent wrench.
For a simple adjustment you might need to remove the non-drive-side crank arm to gain access. CCP-7 is a good tool. For a complete overhaul/rebuild, you'd definitely need to remove both crankarms.
The adjustment is an easy 2 minute job. But for a one-off job, a bike shop is cheaper than the tools.
The exact tools needed will vary depending on the bottom bracket you have. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/categ...bottom-bracket
Probably HCW-4, or HCW-5, a pin spanner of some variety and maybe a crescent wrench.
For a simple adjustment you might need to remove the non-drive-side crank arm to gain access. CCP-7 is a good tool. For a complete overhaul/rebuild, you'd definitely need to remove both crankarms.
The adjustment is an easy 2 minute job. But for a one-off job, a bike shop is cheaper than the tools.
Likes For base2:
11-21-22, 09:34 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,432
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 371 Post(s)
Liked 596 Times
in
373 Posts
Originally Posted by base2
Cheap bikes often have non-cartridge bearings. Instead they have a fixed cup, & an adjustable cup with a lock ring. The adjustment likely needs to be revisited.
The exact tools needed will vary depending on the bottom bracket you have. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/categ...bottom-bracket
Probably HCW-4, or HCW-5, a pin spanner of some variety and maybe a crescent wrench.
For a simple adjustment you might need to remove the non-drive-side crank arm to gain access. CCP-7 is a good tool. For a complete overhaul/rebuild, you'd definitely need to remove both crankarms.
The adjustment is an easy 2 minute job. But for a one-off job, a bike shop is cheaper than the tools.
The exact tools needed will vary depending on the bottom bracket you have. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/categ...bottom-bracket
Probably HCW-4, or HCW-5, a pin spanner of some variety and maybe a crescent wrench.
For a simple adjustment you might need to remove the non-drive-side crank arm to gain access. CCP-7 is a good tool. For a complete overhaul/rebuild, you'd definitely need to remove both crankarms.
The adjustment is an easy 2 minute job. But for a one-off job, a bike shop is cheaper than the tools.
