Post pictures of your Hybrid
#76
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I'm partial to road bikes and C/V, so does this creation pass as a hybrid? I think it does for the following reasons. Positioning is between road and mountain, gearing is the same, and shifting is on the bar. While the wheels are road, they will accept tires up to 25c or perhaps 28c. The seat will be changed to a black one, and I'll probably put on a matching wheelset. What do true hybrid riders think?
#77
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Absolutely a hybrid. If that's OK with you. I said "Nice hybrid!" to a friend riding a sweet Colnago roadie customized with risers. He didn't smile when i said that, not everybody wants to be a hybrid rider. My Marin is marketed as a "flat bar road bike" to appeal to a market that doesn't want a so-called hybrid, but it's a hybrid, and AZ's Colnago is no longer a road bike.
#78
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Hybrids can have drop bars and road bikes can have flat bars. Handlebars alone do not define the bike.
#81
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Very nice - indeed!
As an aside, the most informative - to the viewer - way to photograph a bicycle is from the drive-side so the derailleurs and cranks and all are manifested.
As an aside, the most informative - to the viewer - way to photograph a bicycle is from the drive-side so the derailleurs and cranks and all are manifested.
#82
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Here's a build I helped with... my friend's Marin Hamilton that started out as an urban fixed / ss that got an Alfine 8 speed internal hub and trekking bars so that it would be better suited fro a little ride from here to Alaska.
Way off in the back is my other 20 that underwent a great transmogrification...
Way off in the back is my other 20 that underwent a great transmogrification...
Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 10-14-11 at 01:16 AM.
#83
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Was out cruisin' with my camera again. This was taken in Battery Park - where American cannons pounded British warships during the War of 1812.....

Last edited by Panthers007; 08-15-09 at 06:50 PM.
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Here's a build I helped with... my friend's Marin Hamilton that started out as an urban fixed / ss that got an Alfine 8 speed internal hub and trekking bars so that it would be better suited fro a little ride from here to Alaska.

Way off in the back is my other 20 that underwent a great transmogrification...

Way off in the back is my other 20 that underwent a great transmogrification...
#86
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Hey Panthers, the grip you have on the bike,the short lil bullhorn? how do you use it? is it like a bar end? look kinda short tho.
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#92
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I'd imagine the parrot has something to do with margaritas and fruitcakes...
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Bought this bike this summer, from Canadian Tire and have already done about 600 km on it. Ignore the different wheels, the bike originally came with 24 spoke front and back and well at the 400 km the back tire was spitting out spokes on every trip so i bought a new 32 spoke Ken wheel from my LBS. Anyways really getting into riding because of this bike. Hope it last me a long time ..... even though its a Ctire bike

Last edited by Bain19; 08-15-09 at 10:43 PM.
#94
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Your v-brakes are a little off and should be almost parallel to the fork blades... I am guessing that the spacers are reversed
#95
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I was going to say: Are those the original wheels? But you've answered my query! Thanks...32 X3 laced is the way to go. After all - the wheels are, along with the brakes, the most important part(s) of a bicycle in my view. So I always look at the wheels first. I'd never counsel someone to buy cheap wheels.
But these days many of the manufacturers are doing just that - supplying utterly cheap - and lousy - wheels. In order to increase their profits, their marketing departments started a blitz of ads saying that having a radial front wheel was the coolest! If you don't run radial wheels up front - you're not cool, hip, and with it, Dude. And similar for the rear wheel as well. And you know what? People bought it.
So to anyone out there, I'll drop a nugget of advice: If you are buying a new bike at your LBS, always look at the wheels. If there are 18 or 20 spokes up front, And a low number like 24 in the rear - be prepared to get some 'real' wheels and factor that into the total cost of the new bicycle. Those low spoke-count wheels aren't cool, they are stupid and cheap to manufacture. Leave the radial-spoked wheels to the professional racers out there. In my perspective, they have no business being on bicycles that are going to go wheeling around town and/or weekend touring or such.
And on that note - remember: A professional racer has sponsors who will gladly replace a wheel for their rider without hesitation. You, most likely, do not.
<EDIT> 65 - or it could be the camera angle. Anywho, they are just fine - perfect even - thank you. Nice even contact and have never needed adjustment since I installed them last year. Remember - I had the Avid SD 3's that were nothing but trouble.These are Avid SD 7's - which I highly recommend to people looking for some really good, and not too expensive, v-brakes. Both pads up front, and rear, are 2mm off the rims on both side - at the front of the pads.
But these days many of the manufacturers are doing just that - supplying utterly cheap - and lousy - wheels. In order to increase their profits, their marketing departments started a blitz of ads saying that having a radial front wheel was the coolest! If you don't run radial wheels up front - you're not cool, hip, and with it, Dude. And similar for the rear wheel as well. And you know what? People bought it.
So to anyone out there, I'll drop a nugget of advice: If you are buying a new bike at your LBS, always look at the wheels. If there are 18 or 20 spokes up front, And a low number like 24 in the rear - be prepared to get some 'real' wheels and factor that into the total cost of the new bicycle. Those low spoke-count wheels aren't cool, they are stupid and cheap to manufacture. Leave the radial-spoked wheels to the professional racers out there. In my perspective, they have no business being on bicycles that are going to go wheeling around town and/or weekend touring or such.
And on that note - remember: A professional racer has sponsors who will gladly replace a wheel for their rider without hesitation. You, most likely, do not.
<EDIT> 65 - or it could be the camera angle. Anywho, they are just fine - perfect even - thank you. Nice even contact and have never needed adjustment since I installed them last year. Remember - I had the Avid SD 3's that were nothing but trouble.These are Avid SD 7's - which I highly recommend to people looking for some really good, and not too expensive, v-brakes. Both pads up front, and rear, are 2mm off the rims on both side - at the front of the pads.
Last edited by Panthers007; 08-15-09 at 11:17 PM.
#96
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<EDIT> 65 - or it could be the camera angle. Anywho, they are just fine - perfect even - thank you. Nice even contact and have never needed adjustment since I installed them last year. Remember - I had the Avid SD 3's that were nothing but trouble.These are Avid SD 7's - which I highly recommend to people looking for some really good, and not too expensive, v-brakes. Both pads up front, and rear, are 2mm off the rims on both side - at the front of the pads.
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Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
#98
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
panthers - It is the position of the brake arms relative to the forks and not the position of the brake pads relative to the rim I was looking at.
#99
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
It throws the entire brake set up off and if you think they work well now... try reversing the spacers and re-positioning the pads.
#100
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If they worked any better - they'd throw me up and over the handlebars. As stands - they are buttery-smooth, silent, and as powerful as I'd dare. Trying to get me killed? I'm from New England. Maybe you've heard one of our expressions:
If it 'taint broke, don't fix it.
It sure has turned into a pretty Summer up around here. The sudden influx of some clouds captured my imagination.....
If it 'taint broke, don't fix it.
It sure has turned into a pretty Summer up around here. The sudden influx of some clouds captured my imagination.....
