AlphaDogg

A 21 speed drivetrain or a 24 speed drive train would be quite comparable to what you have on your MTB. IIRC, hybrids often use the same cog sizes and chainring sizes as mountain bikes.

Scooby214

Many hybrids have slightly bigger chainrings, such as 28/38/48 like mine has. Some mountain bikes have chainrings such as 22/32/42, 24/34/44, or such something like that. This isn't much of a difference. A 42t or 44t large chainring is ideal for cycling around town, as you can stay on the largest chainring for much of your riding, including minor hills. At times I wish my bike still had its original 24/34/42 crankset that wore out, as its largest chainring worked so well for my commute. My current 28/38/48 crankset does have a faster top speed, though I do find I need to shift down to the middle chainring for some of my larger hills.

BHOFM

But with the larger diameter and narrower tires, 700c, get you a higher overall gear ratio. Or the inch thing??

capitalA

Ah ok, I was looking at the pictures on the hybrid forum (for pictures) and wasn't seeing gears like mine. But that's good to know. Just replaced the tires on my bike tonight, changed the seat and replaced the chain. I feel like I need to learn to ride again, I took a sharp turn in my driveway and almost fell off, it was that big of a difference, lol

AlphaDogg

I'm not sure what you mean. Is a higher gear ratio "easier" or "harder"? I find my 28/38/48 crankset and 13-28 freewheel (on my 700x37c hybrid) to be easier to pedal than whatever I had on my old MTB. If this is my old MTB, then it had a 28/38/48 crankset and 14-28 freewheel on 24x1.95 tires. I'm not sure if that is my old MTB, as mine had the same frame style (same geometry) but a different color and I thought it was from 2007, not '04.

AlphaDogg

Do your gears look like this? Sorry for the bad pic!



And again, I can't recommend the K2 Astral 2.0 any more! It is a great starter hybrid, coming from a mountain bike.

It is on sale at Sports Authority's website for $300. You would have to take it to an LBS to get it assembled, though. It shouldn't be more than $50 to do.

BHOFM

The "higher" gear is harder to pedal, but with the taller tires you get more speed and the
narrower tire makes it easier. So with the same cog count as a MTB on a hybird for the same
effort you go faster.

AlphaDogg

I know this, but I didn't know it was referred to as a ratio. I used to always go for speed, rather than cadence; so I would always use the 38t or 48t chainring and the smallest cog in the back (high gear). I now go for cadence, and I feel as if my leg muscles are losing mass, but I am training my cardiovascular system. If I do more rpm's on the pedals in a lower gear (usually 38t chainring and the the third smallest cog aka 5th out of 7 gear), I can go the same speed that I would in high gear. I now only use high gear when going downhill.

capitalA

I just meant that the higher gears are harder to pedal and some of the pictures I saw of the hybrids on this forum: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-Hybrid/page35 - didn't seem to have any gears at all or very few. SO I wasn't sure if it was easier or harder to pedal a hybrid with the lack of gears I was seeing (or thought I was seeing, guess I just wasn't looking close enough)...if that makes any sense. I don't really know anything about bikes accept how to get on and go and how to stop and all I've ever ridden have been MTB's.

The only reason I referred to it as a ratio (which I probably shouldn't have) was in reference to the front and the back which, at least on my bike, I can set to two different "resistances", I have a....I don't know what you would call it, a shifter?, on each side of the handlebars, one handles the front and one handles the back, one goes from 1-3 the other from 1-7, that's why I referred to it as 1:1 (or 2:5, 3:7, etc.)

BHOFM

The ratio is the mathematical reference between the front and
rear cogs, tooth count. The larger diameter tires give the effect
of a higher gear ratio, harder to pedal. But the narrower tires
roll easier giving the effect of a lower gear ratio, easier to pedal.
Crank arm length has some effect here as well, MTB are most of
the time shorter and road bikes and hybrids are longer, but not
always.

So for the same output you go faster.

Have I confused you good yet?

AlphaDogg

Yes. One might even say you have over-confused me.

capitalA

Not really....I get what you're saying...to clarify though...does a longer crank arm length make it easier to pedal...therefore making pretty much everything about the hybrid, well, easier (which, I think is the point, lol)? My MTB is very short, in fact I think it's too small, but it's all I've got right now.

AlphaDogg

Yes. It's all about leverage.

capitalA

Ah, ok, well then, staring out on what I have by the time I get a hybrid I should feel like I'm riding on air, lol.

BHOFM

That's what I have been trying to tell you!

I ride a Trek fitness bike and some times I ride my Spalding ATB, MTB in today's terms.
When I get back on the Trek, I feel like I am riding a rocket!

And the Spalding is a great bike, for running around the neighborhood and going to the
store. I have ridden it fifty miles several times.

Arrowana

Yes, rocket is definitely the best description in the difference between a Next MTB and a real bike. I could not believe how much better my Schwinn Traveler was than the Next bike shaped object I had before. If I were you, I would be on the lookout at garage sales, thrift stores, etc. for a better bike to tide you over till you can get whatever hybrid you decide on. While their BMX bikes seem to have some level of quality, Next MTBs have absolute bottom of the line parts, and seem to all be full suspension, which only works to sap away your energy and add a ton of weight. Just about anything is an improvement. It shouldn't be hard to find an old 10-speed or a rigid MTB for under $50 (Sometimes, it can be much less than that, the most common price I've bought bikes at is $5) Getting a bike like this and riding it awhile will also help you determine what you want when you do go with a more expensive bike.

capitalA

ha ha, yeah, like I said, I almost fell off taking a sharp turn in my driveway on the new tires, wasn't prepared. I will definitely keep a look out for something better!

FR4NCH1SE

capitalA, I was in your shoes a couple of years back, this is what I ended up doing and I suggest you do.

I inherited a Walmart bike, Mongoose Pro mountain bike. What I ended up doing is, changing the RIMS with better quality, then I changed the tires, you want something semi-slick, check out Performancebike.com they have some good tires for cheap. I also added some bar ends and thats about it, my ride is a lot more fun and smooth. Or... I would just change your tires to semi-slick tires and just ride that until you can afford a sweet hybrid for example, Specialized Sirrus.

johnj2803

I am in the same predicament as the OP... Bt I have a question... If I were to buy new tires do I always have to buy new tubes? Or as long as the tube size and the tires are the same size I can keep on using the tubes that I already got?

FR4NCH1SE

Chances are the fat knobby tires that come with your mountain bike have different size tubes than a new Semi-slick or slick tire's tube. You might get away with it, but I wouldn't risk it, plus new tires will be more narrow than the fat knobby tires too!

SO to answer your question, yes, you will need to buy new tubes with your new tire, if your going semi-slick which for a hybrid would be the case.

chibibike

i don't think there's to much of a difference between a mnt bike and a hybrid all the time. It's tons of variations of bikes I think it's hard to classify them I think a bike is just a bike though. Just make it how you want it so it will ride good for you. I reciently bought a trek utopia and changed it right away cause I didn't like any of the bikes really so I knew I was going to swap things out and modify anything so I just got the bike with the frame I liked the look of and that fit me good.

Arrowana

Actually, Mongoose Pro does mean it has some level of quality, pretty sure they sell them at bike stores, not Wal-Mart. I'd still say the OP would be much better off finding a better bike for cheap than wasting money on that next.

Regarding the tubes. Most likely the size of your knobbies is around 26 x 1.95. You can go to a bit larger or smaller tire and use the same tubes. I'd guess 26 x 1.75 is the lowest you would want to try it with. Most slicks are 1.5, and would definitely need smaller tubes though.

dmikester1

Awesome thread, thanks for starting this OP. I have a couple questions. I bought a nice used Giant a couple years ago at a local bike shop for $150. It is by far the smoothest, best quality bike I've ever owned. I love it! (My last bike before that was a Huffy I think. )

But it is a mountain bike and I do mostly road riding and I would like to do a triathalon in a little less than a month. I've heard smooth tires can really make a big difference. Also, as with a lot of people here, I don't have a lot of spare money to spend. Buying a new hybrid is not an option. So I thought if I could spend $30-$40 on some nice slick tires, that would be a nice step up. I looked at mine, they are Kenda 26x2.125 tires. I was looking at getting some new tires off Amazon. Is there anything I should look for other than just matching the size? Will slicks fit over my current tubes? I was looking at these: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-...864203&sr=1-26 or these: https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Streetcr...864311&sr=1-50 What are your guy's thoughts on those? Here is a picture of my bike so you can get an idea.


Thanks!
Mike

BHOFM

You will most likely need to go to a 1.5 slick. They should fit your rims fine.
You will need new tubes. I can't imagine putting old tubes in new tires?
Just me?

I have a set of Kenda slicks on an old Spalding MTB and they are fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-City-S...961362-8444236

dmikester1

Thanks for the response. Why do you recommend a 1.5" tire instead of the size I currently have? How do you know they will fit? Also, why would you recommend getting new tubes if my current ones are working fine? What tubes would you recommend?
Thanks
Mike