Psychbiker

Picked up a Raleigh Misceo

I then swapped the out the cable and brake housings to and moved the controls toward the center. This did require trimming the original wires. I didnt use the new wire as the bike has had less than 15 miles and I figured the wires did not need to be replaced.

My front derailer is fine, no rattles.

The rear is giving me issues. Park's How To is confusing because it says to pull the cable by hand to set the H and L. How can I set the cable by pulling it? I dont get it. Why not use the shifter? I then tried to follow a few Youtubes and Sheldon Browns which added confusion because now I dont know if my Acera rear Derailer is "rapid rise" or not.

I had it dialed in I thought but then it would skip #6 in the rear and go to #7.

I would like to ride so the chain does not rattle or skip. I do you use the smallest rear cog and largest front often so I cant have that miss a shift.

Any help would be great.

Is my Acera rear D a 'rapid rise'?

Do I back the barrel adjusted all the way in "counter closckwise" before I start? What gear in front and back do I start on?

Do the High and Low do anything for this or simply prevent the chain from getting tossed into the spokes or into the frame?

The bike is new and from what Ive read the H and L dont need to messed with BUT I did change the cable housings.

Thanks
Rc

Psychbiker

EDIT:

Only issue now is it skips the 3rd smallest cog. Everything else is smooth. I researched more on how to align the derailer by using the H and L screws. Just need to figure out why it skips cog 3.

no1mad 

1. Why did you feel the need to change cable housings on an essentially new bike?
2. The LBS could've moved those controls for you as part of the 'adjustment' process for free. Now, depending on the LBS, you may have to pay for them to fix it if you are unable to do so yourself.

And you probably should've posted this in the Bicycle Mechanics forum...

giantcfr1

You probably have to just adjust the adjuster knob at the end of the cable casing (not the H/L screws). If the gears were working in the first place, there is no need to ever touch the H / L screws again, unless you buy a completely different cassette.
Best thing to do is pop back to the shop you bought it. It will take them a whole 10 seconds to fix.