disk brakes squealing and lockout question....
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 13
Bikes: 2012 Trek 8.3 DS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
disk brakes squealing and lockout question....
hello everyone,
i've got about 100 miles on my new 8.3 ds and have a few questions.
1. my brakes are super loud. they squeal and seem rough sometimes. obviously i dont think it's normal. what can it be?
2. the lockout function on my fork does engage but there is a little bit of give before it gets to the lockout. in other words i can push down and the fork moves a little before it stops at the lockout. is this normal?
i have my free tune up in another 100 miles so i can always ask the lbs if i can't find an answer.
thanks
coby
i've got about 100 miles on my new 8.3 ds and have a few questions.
1. my brakes are super loud. they squeal and seem rough sometimes. obviously i dont think it's normal. what can it be?
2. the lockout function on my fork does engage but there is a little bit of give before it gets to the lockout. in other words i can push down and the fork moves a little before it stops at the lockout. is this normal?
i have my free tune up in another 100 miles so i can always ask the lbs if i can't find an answer.
thanks
coby
#2
Trek DS 8.4 Rider!
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 480
Bikes: 1991 Gt Avalanche, 2012 DS 8.4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Coby,
my rear brakes squeel too. I don't mind them anymore, but what you can do is use some 600 grit sand paper and lightly sand down the pads. On the rotor, get some alcohol and use a rag and wipe the rotor to take the glaze off. This has worked for me but eventually came back. I think it is because the brake pads need to be upgraded. As far as lock out, a lot of high end forks have a little give when they are locked out so i dont think you have anything to worry about.
my rear brakes squeel too. I don't mind them anymore, but what you can do is use some 600 grit sand paper and lightly sand down the pads. On the rotor, get some alcohol and use a rag and wipe the rotor to take the glaze off. This has worked for me but eventually came back. I think it is because the brake pads need to be upgraded. As far as lock out, a lot of high end forks have a little give when they are locked out so i dont think you have anything to worry about.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 2,275
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
8 Posts
Question 1. Link : https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-731581.html
Question 2. Yes
Congrats on your New Trek !
Question 2. Yes
Congrats on your New Trek !
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 2,275
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
8 Posts
Coby,
my rear brakes squeel too. I don't mind them anymore, but what you can do is use some 600 grit sand paper and lightly sand down the pads. On the rotor, get some alcohol and use a rag and wipe the rotor to take the glaze off. This has worked for me but eventually came back. I think it is because the brake pads need to be upgraded. As far as lock out, a lot of high end forks have a little give when they are locked out so i dont think you have anything to worry about.
my rear brakes squeel too. I don't mind them anymore, but what you can do is use some 600 grit sand paper and lightly sand down the pads. On the rotor, get some alcohol and use a rag and wipe the rotor to take the glaze off. This has worked for me but eventually came back. I think it is because the brake pads need to be upgraded. As far as lock out, a lot of high end forks have a little give when they are locked out so i dont think you have anything to worry about.
#5
Trek DS 8.4 Rider!
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 480
Bikes: 1991 Gt Avalanche, 2012 DS 8.4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
ZeroGravity I had a set on an MTB, that just could not keep the squeal out. Kind of did almost the EXACT routine as you, finally bought new pads and after break in, (Problem Solved) Not that it would really matter, but they were Shimano BR-485 w/160mm rotor brakes hydraulic..
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
When you change pads you have to bed them in using heat. I'm sure there is a thread on doing that but:
Clean and scrub your discs to remove any oil, grease and muck.
Dont touch the pad or disc surface.
Find a slope, get up speed and apply brake hard but dont skid. Repeat several times in rapid succession to build up heat.
Some people then cool down the brake and disc with a splash of water. It is VERY hot.
Do the other brake.
Clean and scrub your discs to remove any oil, grease and muck.
Dont touch the pad or disc surface.
Find a slope, get up speed and apply brake hard but dont skid. Repeat several times in rapid succession to build up heat.
Some people then cool down the brake and disc with a splash of water. It is VERY hot.
Do the other brake.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 2,275
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
8 Posts
When you change pads you have to bed them in using heat. I'm sure there is a thread on doing that but:
Clean and scrub your discs to remove any oil, grease and muck.
Dont touch the pad or disc surface.
Find a slope, get up speed and apply brake hard but dont skid. Repeat several times in rapid succession to build up heat.
Some people then cool down the brake and disc with a splash of water. It is VERY hot.
Do the other brake.
Clean and scrub your discs to remove any oil, grease and muck.
Dont touch the pad or disc surface.
Find a slope, get up speed and apply brake hard but dont skid. Repeat several times in rapid succession to build up heat.
Some people then cool down the brake and disc with a splash of water. It is VERY hot.
Do the other brake.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 13
Bikes: 2012 Trek 8.3 DS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
are the disc brakes somewhat like abs brakes on cars? in other words, are they not supposed to lock up?
#10
Two-Wheeled Aficionado
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Wichita
Posts: 4,903
Bikes: Santa Cruz Blur TR, Cannondale Quick CX dropbar conversion & others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
hah, no. ABS uses a speed sensor and servos to avoid lockup. in the absence of those things, disc brakes (on a car, motorcycle or bicycle) will definitely lock up if you mash hard enough.
it's easy to lock up the rear because it unweights under braking. the front can't skid on pavement, you'll endo (or stoppie) first. all bets are off when in the gravel.. it's best to use a combination of braking and this is where modulation is key.
it's easy to lock up the rear because it unweights under braking. the front can't skid on pavement, you'll endo (or stoppie) first. all bets are off when in the gravel.. it's best to use a combination of braking and this is where modulation is key.
#11
T1TO
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 33
Bikes: 2011 Trek DS 8.3/ 2015 Cannondale Supersix Evo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Any break will lock up unless it has ABS. Once on my motorcycle going about 30mph and a car cut me off completely. I applied both brakes pretty hard and made my front tire skid (small skid) and came to a complete stop. My heart was by my mouth for a few mins. Endo's happpen when your body weight is transferred towards the front using the front brakes.
#12
Two-Wheeled Aficionado
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Wichita
Posts: 4,903
Bikes: Santa Cruz Blur TR, Cannondale Quick CX dropbar conversion & others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
right, but because of the weight of the bicycle compared to the rider, it's easy to endo and very, very hard on pavement to lock up the front. it's easier to skid the front on dirt, of course.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 77
Bikes: 1987 GT Performer(Stolen)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
When the wife and I bought ours this past summer/fall her Trek Neko front brake started to sqeak at low speed, but since, has stopped. I'm guessing it was like a vehicle caliper and got glazed up a bit. If it wouldn't have stopped, I would have fine sanded the rotor a bit.
Both of our forks have a little bit a squish as well. Not much that can be done I don't think. I actually just brought our bikes in for the 90 day free tune up deal. Granted we bought them 6 months ago LOL. Though we haven't ridden our nice bikes since the winter hit.
Both of our forks have a little bit a squish as well. Not much that can be done I don't think. I actually just brought our bikes in for the 90 day free tune up deal. Granted we bought them 6 months ago LOL. Though we haven't ridden our nice bikes since the winter hit.