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Trek 7.3 FX (2014) Hybrid > 1 x 9 drivetrain

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Trek 7.3 FX (2014) Hybrid > 1 x 9 drivetrain

Old 08-27-14, 09:16 AM
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Roukan
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Trek 7.3 FX (2014) Hybrid > 1 x 9 drivetrain

Hi There

I have a Trek 7.3 FX 2014 model hybrid bike and I'm looking for some help on converting to a 1 x 9 (11-32 x 36) drivetrain.

The current chainset is a Shimano Acera M371 (48/36/26) triple - from what I can gather this is an all-in one unit and will need replacing as the chainrings cannot be removed.

So I'm looking for some suggestions for a cheap(ish) replacement Single 36T chainset with Narrow/wide teeth as I plan to ditch the front derailleur and shifter.

I have no idea what the bottom bracket model is (it's not listed on the spec sheet) and I'm hoping I can get away with out replacing it to keep cost to a minimum.

Perhaps there are some hidden pitfalls I'm unaware of, therefore any feedback/help is much appreciated.


Thanks

Roukan
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Old 08-27-14, 09:56 AM
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I just did this a few days ago.

Got a relatively inexpensive Origin8 squaretapered crankset, 175mm crank arms, 110 BCD. Mated that to a 42T Raceface narrow-wide chainring with Origin8 single chainring bolts.

If your bottom bracket is square taper, more than likely the M371 uses a wider than normal BB. Standard road I think is 113mm but you should get whatever your crank recommends. Although it is more expense, the more narrow pedal distance is more comfortable and natural to me--and the chainline with the single is better. I got a Shimano UN55 which is I think 105 level. Not too expensive in any case.

You can reuse your rear mech and cassette but will have to look up what the max cog size is for your derailleur if you are looking to go big. Ideally, you should use a short cage RD as you no longer need to take up much chain slack.

Unfortunately, you will probably need tools: crank arm puller, BB socket adapter, chainring bolt tool, and if removing cassette, cassette lockring adapter and chain whip.

I love my new setup. Shifts are fast and crisp. The Raceface narrow-wide chainring is great--very quiet and feels better than the old Suntour I was running before. In hybrid useage, I don't expect that chain to drop and it certainly hasn't so far. I just ordered a Deore XT M770 right shifter because the R440 9 speed doesn't feel as good as what I'm used to on my R770 on my other bike.

Good luck!
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Old 08-27-14, 10:30 AM
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What is gained by dropping two chain wheels?
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Old 08-27-14, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post
I just did this a few days ago.

Got a relatively inexpensive Origin8 squaretapered crankset, 175mm crank arms, 110 BCD. Mated that to a 42T Raceface narrow-wide chainring with Origin8 single chainring bolts.

If your bottom bracket is square taper, more than likely the M371 uses a wider than normal BB. Standard road I think is 113mm but you should get whatever your crank recommends. Although it is more expense, the more narrow pedal distance is more comfortable and natural to me--and the chainline with the single is better. I got a Shimano UN55 which is I think 105 level. Not too expensive in any case.

You can reuse your rear mech and cassette but will have to look up what the max cog size is for your derailleur if you are looking to go big. Ideally, you should use a short cage RD as you no longer need to take up much chain slack.

Unfortunately, you will probably need tools: crank arm puller, BB socket adapter, chainring bolt tool, and if removing cassette, cassette lockring adapter and chain whip.

I love my new setup. Shifts are fast and crisp. The Raceface narrow-wide chainring is great--very quiet and feels better than the old Suntour I was running before. In hybrid useage, I don't expect that chain to drop and it certainly hasn't so far. I just ordered a Deore XT M770 right shifter because the R440 9 speed doesn't feel as good as what I'm used to on my R770 on my other bike.

Good luck!
Thanks for the reply.

Some good points brought to light here like crank arm length - I must check the length of mine as I'm quite comfortable with them.

Tools: this could be a problem - I do have a box of cycle tools that I need to dig out but I think I'm going to short of a few that are needed - Hopefully one of my contacts in the local cycling club might be able to hook me up

Nice to hear that you've not had any chain drops - the Raceface rings appear to be a great candidate for this setup.


Thanks

Roukan
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Old 08-27-14, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
What is gained by dropping two chain wheels?
There is something to be said for simplification. I also never use the granny ring. I chose 42T for the chainring because it splits the larger and the middle rings. Obviously, you shed some weight if that is important to you. I've run the 1x9 setup for over a year now and have no regrets. It is only recently that I changed to a narrow-wide chainring so I could lose the chaincatcher and bash guard. Compared to the stock triple, the new setup just feels much better. I ride for fun and fitness, not to get from point a to b.
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Old 08-27-14, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
What is gained by dropping two chain wheels?
Both of mine are redundant, I have yet to use them and TBH if I came across a hill I couldn't manage with the 36-32 I'd rather walk up it than get involved in any granny ring sorcery

Other points in no particular order:

Less clutter on my handlebars due to one less shifter.
No front derailleur means one less mechanical part to go wrong and that whole area on the bike will look
much nicer and cleaner.
One ring to rule them all = no worries about crossing the chain.
Less distraction where gears are concerned.
Shed a little bit of excess weight.
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Old 08-27-14, 11:54 AM
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But if you just leave it on the middle ring and never shift, how can you get FD problems? Can't you just take off that shifter once it's in place? Seems like a lot of work to gain very little.
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Old 08-27-14, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post
But if you just leave it on the middle ring and never shift, how can you get FD problems? Can't you just take off that shifter once it's in place? Seems like a lot of work to gain very little.
Of course one could just do this, it's pretty much where I am ATM.

Having said that I'd like to take to a 1 x 9 as I also like the minimalist look you get as bonus.
I wouldn't find time to be an issue, but I think the missus will find any involved an issue
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Old 08-27-14, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post
But if you just leave it on the middle ring and never shift, how can you get FD problems? Can't you just take off that shifter once it's in place? Seems like a lot of work to gain very little.
Yes exactly. I doubt that any of us hybrid riders could notice the change in weight. With a triple or double you have more options at the low and high end. And can reduce the chances of an extreme chain angle. To each his own...
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Old 08-27-14, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
What is gained by dropping two chain wheels?
Originally Posted by saeyedoc
But if you just leave it on the middle ring and never shift, how can you get FD problems? Can't you just take off that shifter once it's in place? Seems like a lot of work to gain very little.
For this reason we could claim all fixed/SS bikes are useless, why don't they just buy a bike and never change gears?...

Sometimes it's just fun to customize.
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Old 08-27-14, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by KBentley57 View Post
For this reason we could claim all fixed/SS bikes are useless, why don't they just buy a bike and never change gears?...

Sometimes it's just fun to customize.
C'mon already... Don't carry it to the absurd.
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Old 08-28-14, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
Yes exactly. I doubt that any of us hybrid riders could notice the change in weight. With a triple or double you have more options at the low and high end. And can reduce the chances of an extreme chain angle. To each his own...
My Trek came with a triple M361 crank. That thing was heavy and going to single crank is immediately noticeable. I am inclined to believe that shedding moving drivetrain/wheel weight is more important than overall bike weight. As I said, chain line is much improved with a single crank--at least compared to the inner and outer chainring on a triple. The spacing between the pedals was also abnormally wide compared to a road bike. And lastly, yes, I do like to tinker because cycling is also a hobby for me.
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Old 08-28-14, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post
My Trek came with a triple M361 crank. That thing was heavy and going to single crank is immediately noticeable. I am inclined to believe that shedding moving drivetrain/wheel weight is more important than overall bike weight. As I said, chain line is much improved with a single crank--at least compared to the inner and outer chainring on a triple. The spacing between the pedals was also abnormally wide compared to a road bike. And lastly, yes, I do like to tinker because cycling is also a hobby for me.
How could the chain line be improved by going from a triple to a single. You've reduced the number of options for keeping the chain in line by 2/3. That does not make sense to me. Changing weight on a large diameter object like a wheel should be noticeable. However shedding two small lightweight chain wheels won't make much difference. You may be feeling a difference related to chain wheel tooth count, crank length, crank size, etc. If the pedal line was moved to a more comfortable position then that could be be what you are feeling too.
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Old 08-29-14, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
How could the chain line be improved by going from a triple to a single. You've reduced the number of options for keeping the chain in line by 2/3. That does not make sense to me. Changing weight on a large diameter object like a wheel should be noticeable. However shedding two small lightweight chain wheels won't make much difference. You may be feeling a difference related to chain wheel tooth count, crank length, crank size, etc. If the pedal line was moved to a more comfortable position then that could be be what you are feeling too.
Look at your chain line when your chain is on the outer or inner rings of a triple. A single is like having your chainring in the middle. You also have some mounting options with the single to get it even more straight over the gears you use most.

My old M361 triple is significantly heavier than my new setup. I did not just reuse the M361 and take away two chainrings. The difference is noticeable, just like going from heavier tires to lighter performance tires was noticeable.
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Old 08-29-14, 08:02 AM
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I went 1 x 9 from 3 x 9 on my Giant hybrid a few years ago. I rebuilt the bike from the ground up reusing only the frame and brake levers, i settled on a 44t chain ring as the smaller one I started with had me geared with combinations I never used. I believe my BB is a 73mm, I used a Hope Ceramic BB, Race face crank set, and Blackspire chain ring. The rear dur. is a XT, with a XTR shifter and Jagwire Mountain Pro cables, the shifting is so smooth and quiet.

I got an early morning ride in today, first time I have been on it since buying my road bike, I went 18 mi. @ 19.6 mph avg.
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Old 08-29-14, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Roukan View Post
Hi There

I have a Trek 7.3 FX 2014 model hybrid bike and I'm looking for some help on converting to a 1 x 9 (11-32 x 36) drivetrain.

The current chainset is a Shimano Acera M371 (48/36/26) triple - from what I can gather this is an all-in one unit and will need replacing as the chainrings cannot be removed.

So I'm looking for some suggestions for a cheap(ish) replacement Single 36T chainset with Narrow/wide teeth as I plan to ditch the front derailleur and shifter.

I have no idea what the bottom bracket model is (it's not listed on the spec sheet) and I'm hoping I can get away with out replacing it to keep cost to a minimum.

Perhaps there are some hidden pitfalls I'm unaware of, therefore any feedback/help is much appreciated.


Thanks

Roukan
You really have to nail the gearing on a 1x setup, especially if you ride up and long.
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