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Hybrid with a road bike crankset?

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Hybrid with a road bike crankset?

Old 09-17-14, 04:01 PM
  #26  
themishmosh
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Originally Posted by NormanF View Post
Most people want lower gearing. It makes more sense to change from a double to a triple crankset AND get a mega-range cassette.
Most? The OP said he wants to gain speed and his rides are flat.
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Old 09-17-14, 05:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by themishmosh View Post
Most road square taper cranksets call for 113mm wide BB but good thin something like the Shimano UN55 is pretty cheap.
Yep, most double cranks want 110 or 113mm, and most likely the triple he has on now is a 123 (or 122.5, depending on mfg). A double will work on 123, but I found it leading to more inside chain drops, especially if you get toward big big before dumping the front. And yes UN55's and the installation tool are cheap. I was just pointing out that it may be more to change than just crank.
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Old 09-17-14, 05:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NormanF View Post
Most people want lower gearing. It makes more sense to change from a double to a triple crankset AND get a mega-range cassette.
The stock Trek 720 has no issues with low gearing for the flats (for most folks) and as I pointed out, the top gear on the 720 is higher than the OP's road bicycle so this is not an issue of gearing, or a lack of it.

I don't think the OP is spinning out the top gear on the Trek... the biggest limitation here is with the riding position and wind resistance with weight being of less consequence on the flats.
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Old 09-17-14, 05:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EvilWeasel View Post
You might run into cornering clearance issues. The bottom bracket sits lower on most hybrids compared to road bikes. At least that's what happened to me anyway.
Changing a crankset will not cause pedal strike if you use the same length crank arms;road and MTB cranks are available in many sizes.

Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
I don't think the OP is spinning out the top gear on the Trek... the biggest limitation here is with the riding position and wind resistance with weight being of less consequence on the flats.
This. I think the best idea for the OP would be to improve the engine;ie,just keep riding and your speed will improve.
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Old 09-17-14, 07:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by NormanF View Post
Most people want lower gearing. It makes more sense to change from a double to a triple crankset AND get a mega-range cassette.
this is what i did.i am going to change the middle chainring gear from 34 to 38.i cant push the large chainring gear 44 any faster than the 34,so i am splitting the difference.if i can maintain the same rpm as the 34 or close to it i will gain a increase in speed on the flats.
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Old 09-17-14, 10:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
Most modern bicycles have gearing ranges that exceed the capabilities of their riders at the top end.
I wish I had a dime for the number of times I've heard that from LBS/coop peeps. It's a complete myth. Even an unfit rider can spin out with a gravity assist. Unless you are Cancellera the big ring is for descending.
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Old 09-18-14, 05:04 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by spare_wheel View Post
I wish I had a dime for the number of times I've heard that from LBS/coop peeps. It's a complete myth. Even an unfit rider can spin out with a gravity assist. Unless you are Cancellera the big ring is for descending.
If we take the Op's Trek 720 and find a hill to spin it out on, we're looking at a speed of almost 42 mph at 120 rpm and I find that most regular riders are going to start testing their brakes before they hit that speed... and you need a fairly decent hill and should have some decent brakes to do that.

Mind you... I have hit those kinds of speeds on a Raleigh 3 speed with poorer brakes while zoobombing and have made faster descents while riding mountain and road with better bikes with much better brakes.

Anyways...

The OP might find that the most worthwhile upgrade to his Trek is to look at the rear cassette and see if that could be swapped for one with closer steps... if it has the stock 11-30 a road block would give closer steps and help with cadence, if the bike does not do a lot of climbing the low gearing could be sacrificed a little.
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Old 09-18-14, 07:20 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by silkey View Post
this is what i did.i am going to change the middle chainring gear from 34 to 38.i cant push the large chainring gear 44 any faster than the 34,so i am splitting the difference.if i can maintain the same rpm as the 34 or close to it i will gain a increase in speed on the flats.
44 - 38 = 6 tooth difference

Good luck finding a triple FD that will handle that minimal difference.
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Old 09-18-14, 11:24 PM
  #34  
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if it wont i will make it a single 38 and junk the other 2 gears.i dont need anything bigger than a 38 anyway.i can spin but i cant mash.
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