Bike Life Span
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Middelbury, Vermont
Posts: 1,105
Bikes: Giant Escape 1
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 136 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Bike Life Span
I was thinking about the "life-span" of a bike and wondering what you think. I figure there are three factors that determine bike life-spans. They are:
1. If you think in terms of miles, I figure a bike lasts about 5,000 miles before too many parts and components need to be replaced. If you bike a 1,000 miles a year, figure five years. If you bike twice that, then maybe three years.
2. Bike technology moves down in price point at a rate of about $100 per year. So that a bike that costs $500 more than the bike you bought this year, will be available for the same price (that you paid this year) in five years. Example: You buy a bike for $600 this year. The bike that costs $1,100 has a lot of features and component levels you'd like. In five years, the bike that sells for $600 (not factoring inflation) will have those feature and component levels.
3. As your fitness and skill levels increase, you will find the bike you have less satisfying - you'll graduate up to a new level. Hard to determine a rate that this happens.
Conclusion: A person who bikes most days during the six months of bike season, will need (want) a new bike in three to five years. (Obviously, if you bike in the winter, that bike will be trash by the end of the season.)
1. If you think in terms of miles, I figure a bike lasts about 5,000 miles before too many parts and components need to be replaced. If you bike a 1,000 miles a year, figure five years. If you bike twice that, then maybe three years.
2. Bike technology moves down in price point at a rate of about $100 per year. So that a bike that costs $500 more than the bike you bought this year, will be available for the same price (that you paid this year) in five years. Example: You buy a bike for $600 this year. The bike that costs $1,100 has a lot of features and component levels you'd like. In five years, the bike that sells for $600 (not factoring inflation) will have those feature and component levels.
3. As your fitness and skill levels increase, you will find the bike you have less satisfying - you'll graduate up to a new level. Hard to determine a rate that this happens.
Conclusion: A person who bikes most days during the six months of bike season, will need (want) a new bike in three to five years. (Obviously, if you bike in the winter, that bike will be trash by the end of the season.)
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,273
Mentioned: 216 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17018 Post(s)
Liked 3,855 Times
in
2,858 Posts
I think you are way way way too short.
But, perhaps this is with the Hybrids section.
I bought my old Colnago Super in 1982, but looking back, it was probably a 68/69 model which puts it coming up on close to a half century old.
I've upgraded a few bits and pieces here and there. Now we are 30+ years later, and it is still roadworthy.
My mileage varies. Some years it probably hit 5,000. Last year it was about 2,500. Some are shorter. So, perhaps over the last 30 years the bike has gotten 20,000 to 50,000 miles.
I finally decided to build a "rain bike" this year... and really like the "new" bike, so the tired old Colnago may spend less time on the road, especially in the winter. But, it will probably get a bit if a restoration soon too.
Anyway, there are a few aspects on the bike lifetime and wear. A lot depends on the rider. Some that were bought new get traded within the first decade, but that doesn't mean they are dumpster bound, especially if they began life as a decent bike. As mentioned mine was probably 13 or 14 years old when I bought it, and I don't know if I was the second owner.
Yes, many things have changed. But, many things can also be upgraded if one chooses to do so. I really don't see the frame itself as ever truly wearing out, although the paint has taken a beating over the years.
But, perhaps this is with the Hybrids section.
I bought my old Colnago Super in 1982, but looking back, it was probably a 68/69 model which puts it coming up on close to a half century old.
I've upgraded a few bits and pieces here and there. Now we are 30+ years later, and it is still roadworthy.
My mileage varies. Some years it probably hit 5,000. Last year it was about 2,500. Some are shorter. So, perhaps over the last 30 years the bike has gotten 20,000 to 50,000 miles.
I finally decided to build a "rain bike" this year... and really like the "new" bike, so the tired old Colnago may spend less time on the road, especially in the winter. But, it will probably get a bit if a restoration soon too.
Anyway, there are a few aspects on the bike lifetime and wear. A lot depends on the rider. Some that were bought new get traded within the first decade, but that doesn't mean they are dumpster bound, especially if they began life as a decent bike. As mentioned mine was probably 13 or 14 years old when I bought it, and I don't know if I was the second owner.
Yes, many things have changed. But, many things can also be upgraded if one chooses to do so. I really don't see the frame itself as ever truly wearing out, although the paint has taken a beating over the years.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cabot, Arkansas
Posts: 1,538
Bikes: Lynskey Twisted Helix Di2 Ti, 1987 Orbea steel single speed/fixie, Orbea Avant M30, Trek Fuel EX9.8 29, Trek Madone 5 series, Specialized Epic Carbon Comp 29er, Trek 7.1F
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Bikes will last for 10's of thousands of miles through several winter seasons and multiple owners. The components will have to be replaced more often if proper maintenance isn't followed but there is no reason to dispose of a bike unless the frame is damaged or it is just abused to the point its too expensive to be worth repairing.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,098
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 820 Times
in
423 Posts
A well built frame should last a lifetime and parts are meant to be replaced so a well made bicycle should last a lifetime.
It may be hard to find quality replacements of older parts, so stockpiling chainrings, bottom brackets, and cassettes is a good idea.
Bicycles evolve slowly, and just because something is newer does not make older stuff suddenly crap.
It may be hard to find quality replacements of older parts, so stockpiling chainrings, bottom brackets, and cassettes is a good idea.
Bicycles evolve slowly, and just because something is newer does not make older stuff suddenly crap.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,273
Mentioned: 216 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17018 Post(s)
Liked 3,855 Times
in
2,858 Posts
Chainrings can last a very long time. I've gotten 30 years of hard use out of my chainrings... I did replace the inner chainring because I had managed to wear the teeth asymmetrically (should have rotated it), and I wanted to drop from 42T to 41T. The outer one looks worn, but still has some life in it.
I am finding NOS 144 BCD chainrings for cheaper now than I would have paid 20 or 30 years ago, or perhaps no more than the previous cost.
I'm not sure about bottom brackets. Perhaps it depends on which one has. Again NOS parts are available, but cartridge bearings might not be a bad idea, at least for some of the bikes. However, certain types such as old style octalinks are being discontinued in certain sizes.
Cassettes? Maybe. Shimano has a push-down marketing, so they may no longer sell 9s Dura Ace, but it is available with other models. However, lots of slightly used cassettes are available at pennies on the dollar. And, when they're gone, perhaps it is time for an upgrade.
A lot of freewheels are available, although not a lot of companies are making them. However, since they are still being put on new bikes, those companies that do make freewheels may continue to keep market share.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,271
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3848 Post(s)
Liked 2,711 Times
in
1,773 Posts
The Peter Mooney of my username has roughly 45,000 miles and is far, far from dead. If I were to put new parts on it, I would not be able to tell it isn't brand new. My latest find is a frame from ~1974 and while I had to do some work to get around an aged and mistreated seat lug and derailleur hanger of some ancient standard, the ride makes me feel young again! My commuter, a ~'83 Trek, is ready to do many more years and winters. 17,000 miles so far. Replaces a Miyata with 27,000 miles that ran fine until I shortened the wheelbase 6" in a crash.
I have replaced frames for a cracked seat tube - warranty at about 5,000 miles, broken chainstay - at 19,000 very hard miles, many crashes and 4 winters + on salted roads and a broken fork blade - on a mediocre used frame of completely unknown history.
Good bikes that are cared for go a LONG ways. Drivetrains, seats, rubber, handlebars, stems and brake levers are consumables. So are wheels. (Everything after the rubber is consumable on a much longer timetable, but they do wear out or become suspect.) The only original part on my Mooney is the seatpin which actually isn't original but went on very early, and it came on my first good bike 47 years ago and has been in service almost non-stop!
Ben
I have replaced frames for a cracked seat tube - warranty at about 5,000 miles, broken chainstay - at 19,000 very hard miles, many crashes and 4 winters + on salted roads and a broken fork blade - on a mediocre used frame of completely unknown history.
Good bikes that are cared for go a LONG ways. Drivetrains, seats, rubber, handlebars, stems and brake levers are consumables. So are wheels. (Everything after the rubber is consumable on a much longer timetable, but they do wear out or become suspect.) The only original part on my Mooney is the seatpin which actually isn't original but went on very early, and it came on my first good bike 47 years ago and has been in service almost non-stop!
Ben
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 631
Bikes: 2014 Trek Allant drop bar conversion, modified Schwinn MTN commuter, 2015 Trek 520, Soma ES, Salsa Journeyman, 1980 Trek 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 178 Post(s)
Liked 355 Times
in
166 Posts
Regular maintenance through the winter can yield a well tuned machine come spring time. No reason to let things go south just because it is cold outside. My winter bike is also my summer kick around bike, and it has made it through the winter in fantastic working order, although I did repack the wheel bearings and bottom bracket a few weeks back, and clean / lube the drivetrain a couple times a month. No reason that bike wont be serviceable for many winters to come.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 7,239
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
My 1990 Cannondale has over 130,000 miles and hasn't had all that many components replaced. Certainly quite a few tires, some chains and cassettes, and some cables plus brake pads. But I regard those as expected maintenance wear items. It has also had the original saddle replaced, the rims have worn out once (but still the original hubs, freehub, and most spokes), the large chain ring has been replaced, and the bottom bracket spindle. The pedals were also replaced but that was to switch to SPD clipless, not because the originals wore out.
Frame, fork, handlebar, stem, headset, seat post, cranks, small chain ring, derailleurs, shifters, brakes/levers are all original.
OTOH, very few original parts are still on my 1965 Gitane tandem (no idea how many miles - but it has lots). The front seat post, rear stem, and front hub are the only original components other than the frame and fork (and the latter two had to be repaired after a steerer tube failure).
Don't see much need for stockpiling parts. They wear out rather slowly and other than wear items the failures aren't that predictable. My current bikes have rear cog sets with 5, 6, 7, and 8 cogs and I have no problem finding new replacement freewheels and cassettes.
Frame, fork, handlebar, stem, headset, seat post, cranks, small chain ring, derailleurs, shifters, brakes/levers are all original.
OTOH, very few original parts are still on my 1965 Gitane tandem (no idea how many miles - but it has lots). The front seat post, rear stem, and front hub are the only original components other than the frame and fork (and the latter two had to be repaired after a steerer tube failure).
Don't see much need for stockpiling parts. They wear out rather slowly and other than wear items the failures aren't that predictable. My current bikes have rear cog sets with 5, 6, 7, and 8 cogs and I have no problem finding new replacement freewheels and cassettes.
Last edited by prathmann; 03-04-15 at 11:12 PM.
#9
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 40,695
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9883 Post(s)
Liked 4,854 Times
in
2,537 Posts
I wish I woulda gotten more 8sp XT cassettes when they went on closeout for $30. Wish I woulda gotten more Sram Attack 8sp shifters while they were still around.
But keeping an eye on the coop bins down in Portland oughtta keep me going.
Don't think I'll ever give up my Mongoose frame. It's just too perfect, and it's coming up on its 20th birthday.
But keeping an eye on the coop bins down in Portland oughtta keep me going.
Don't think I'll ever give up my Mongoose frame. It's just too perfect, and it's coming up on its 20th birthday.
#10
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: lower mitten
Posts: 1,555
Bikes: With round 700c & 26" wheels
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I like to keep my bikes...Frame is the main bone, so if it's not damaged, there is no need to replace the whole bike. My daily rider is just 5 years old, my winter bike is year older... I replaced everything already but the frame on both bikes. To be more exact, I replaced wheelsets and drivetrain several times already, and I still love these bikes. They literary get better with age 
Unless I change the type of riding, there will be no need for a new bike. I'm "too old" to buy a new bike just to keep up with Joneses.

Unless I change the type of riding, there will be no need for a new bike. I'm "too old" to buy a new bike just to keep up with Joneses.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: D'uh... I am a Cutter
Posts: 6,159
Bikes: '17 Access Old Turnpike Gravel bike, '14 Trek 1.1, '13 Cannondale CAAD 10, '98 CAD 2, R300
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
8 Posts
1. Bicycles last for decades! I ride a solid 2K a year and certainly get more than 5K out of a bicycle. I can't however report how many miles I get out of a bike... as I have not worn-out one yet.
2. Latest greatest (of just about everything)... always carries the highest price tag. Entry level or mid-grade, or lesser name bicycles are probably a better value. As bicycles are a mature technology.
3. I've had friends that felt "less satisfied" about their wife's. And I guess some feel that way about their homes, cars... and so on. That could just be a personal thing.
I think often times when someone "gets into" cycling.... there is a learning curve. They may find a fit or style of bicycle they like more, or wish to add to their cycling enjoyment. And also with experience a cyclist may decide to try road cycling, or sport cycling. Tastes and desires do mature and change over time.
But I've never really heard a cyclist say anything about having a dis-satisfying cycling experience. Bicycling is a hoot! Some of us find our own special niche in cycling [that] we enjoy most (like racing or touring).... and after all.... there are only so many hours in a day, and days in a week.
I have more than a couple bikes. But I have nether worn-out or become dis-satisfied with any of my bikes. I have just found "other bikes" that I would also like to enjoy. And since bicycles don't take up much space. Why shouldn't I enjoy my hobby.
2. Latest greatest (of just about everything)... always carries the highest price tag. Entry level or mid-grade, or lesser name bicycles are probably a better value. As bicycles are a mature technology.
I think often times when someone "gets into" cycling.... there is a learning curve. They may find a fit or style of bicycle they like more, or wish to add to their cycling enjoyment. And also with experience a cyclist may decide to try road cycling, or sport cycling. Tastes and desires do mature and change over time.
But I've never really heard a cyclist say anything about having a dis-satisfying cycling experience. Bicycling is a hoot! Some of us find our own special niche in cycling [that] we enjoy most (like racing or touring).... and after all.... there are only so many hours in a day, and days in a week.
I have more than a couple bikes. But I have nether worn-out or become dis-satisfied with any of my bikes. I have just found "other bikes" that I would also like to enjoy. And since bicycles don't take up much space. Why shouldn't I enjoy my hobby.
Last edited by Dave Cutter; 03-04-15 at 11:52 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 354
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
3. As your fitness and skill levels increase, you will find the bike you have less satisfying - you'll graduate up to a new level. Hard to determine a rate that this happens.
Conclusion: A person who bikes most days during the six months of bike season, will need (want) a new bike in three to five years. (Obviously, if you bike in the winter, that bike will be trash by the end of the season.)
Some folks might want to upgrade or get a new bike every few years, just like some people get a new car often. Others, like myself, are pretty content with what we have.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,098
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 820 Times
in
423 Posts
I'm not sure if I would encourage too big of a stockpile.
Chainrings can last a very long time. I've gotten 30 years of hard use out of my chainrings... I did replace the inner chainring because I had managed to wear the teeth asymmetrically (should have rotated it), and I wanted to drop from 42T to 41T. The outer one looks worn, but still has some life in it.
I am finding NOS 144 BCD chainrings for cheaper now than I would have paid 20 or 30 years ago, or perhaps no more than the previous cost.
I'm not sure about bottom brackets. Perhaps it depends on which one has. Again NOS parts are available, but cartridge bearings might not be a bad idea, at least for some of the bikes. However, certain types such as old style octalinks are being discontinued in certain sizes.
Cassettes? Maybe. Shimano has a push-down marketing, so they may no longer sell 9s Dura Ace, but it is available with other models. However, lots of slightly used cassettes are available at pennies on the dollar. And, when they're gone, perhaps it is time for an upgrade.
A lot of freewheels are available, although not a lot of companies are making them. However, since they are still being put on new bikes, those companies that do make freewheels may continue to keep market share.
Chainrings can last a very long time. I've gotten 30 years of hard use out of my chainrings... I did replace the inner chainring because I had managed to wear the teeth asymmetrically (should have rotated it), and I wanted to drop from 42T to 41T. The outer one looks worn, but still has some life in it.
I am finding NOS 144 BCD chainrings for cheaper now than I would have paid 20 or 30 years ago, or perhaps no more than the previous cost.
I'm not sure about bottom brackets. Perhaps it depends on which one has. Again NOS parts are available, but cartridge bearings might not be a bad idea, at least for some of the bikes. However, certain types such as old style octalinks are being discontinued in certain sizes.
Cassettes? Maybe. Shimano has a push-down marketing, so they may no longer sell 9s Dura Ace, but it is available with other models. However, lots of slightly used cassettes are available at pennies on the dollar. And, when they're gone, perhaps it is time for an upgrade.
A lot of freewheels are available, although not a lot of companies are making them. However, since they are still being put on new bikes, those companies that do make freewheels may continue to keep market share.
Bottom brackets, yeah I meant Shimano. A quality hollow-axle square-taper BB now does not exist. A 107mm wide XTR - impossible to source. There are other brands, but a BBUN72 back in the day cost about $30.
Cassettes - modern 7 and 8sp exist, but not in a spidered light version. Its hard to ditch a nice 7sp spidered XT cassette and put an all stamped steel in its place.
Youre right about buying used, lots of 20+ year old barely used bikes around to cannibalize for parts
#14
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,384
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Timberjack, Expert TG, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2961 Post(s)
Liked 1,864 Times
in
1,215 Posts
If you are talking about premium product and lifetime ownership, it's not a bike as a single object so much as it's a process of replacement, like George Washington's axe, which has had three new handles and two new heads.
As a financial decision about the bike as a single appliance or toy, it's easy to see that a bike can become worthless when it would take more money to fix it up than it would to buy a better one. This however is cruel math. It's also sort of fake math, as the cost to fix something up includes all the markups for parts that were bought wholesale by the company building the replacement, and your precious free time at whatever rate you think it's worth vs. the 3rd world wages and assembly line efficiency of the factory assembling the replacement.
As a financial decision about the bike as a single appliance or toy, it's easy to see that a bike can become worthless when it would take more money to fix it up than it would to buy a better one. This however is cruel math. It's also sort of fake math, as the cost to fix something up includes all the markups for parts that were bought wholesale by the company building the replacement, and your precious free time at whatever rate you think it's worth vs. the 3rd world wages and assembly line efficiency of the factory assembling the replacement.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6,319
Bikes: 2012 Salsa Casseroll, 2009 Kona Blast
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
143 Posts
Strange premise for a thread. We just completely overhauled my wife's old 1978 Peugeot Touring bike. Could we have purchased an entry level hybrid for the money we spent? Maybe if we found one on clearance.
I have a friend who is agonizing over whether to replace his 1975 Panasonic. He put a little money into it last year and it is more than rideable.
I have a friend who is agonizing over whether to replace his 1975 Panasonic. He put a little money into it last year and it is more than rideable.
#16
The Left Coast, USA
Although my routes have changed now, for the last 4 years I commuted on a bike 40 years old; OEM except for tires, rims and saddle. I have other bikes for sure, but that's my 'hobby'. My primary rec rides are over 20 years old, and my $3300 CF vunder-bike hangs in the garage unused. I don't think your theory works for retro-grouches.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 4,727
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1314 Post(s)
Liked 732 Times
in
394 Posts
Strange premise for a thread. We just completely overhauled my wife's old 1978 Peugeot Touring bike. Could we have purchased an entry level hybrid for the money we spent? Maybe if we found one on clearance.
I have a friend who is agonizing over whether to replace his 1975 Panasonic. He put a little money into it last year and it is more than rideable.
I have a friend who is agonizing over whether to replace his 1975 Panasonic. He put a little money into it last year and it is more than rideable.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Northern Burbs of Atlanta
Posts: 154
Bikes: Fuji Absolute, Cannondale CAAD10, Orbea Ordu m-30, Cannondale Jeckyl
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In my opinion, a bike has a near infinite life-span given proper care. Yes, consumables will need replacing (tires, brake pads, wheels, cassettes, chains, cables) and components will need periodic rebuilding to maintain the performance and integrity of the components. These rebuilds are also integral to preventing frame damage due to grit and grime that can build up, promote damage and wear in places that can't afford the damage and wear.
Properly welded steel frames ( e.g., not $99 Huffy's with clamps on the rear dropouts ) should last pretty much forever given decent care. Metal fatigue is real, but properly cared for, your average sized rider isn't likely to produce enough stress on a regular basis to fatigue a good frame.
Aluminum frames always got a bad rap as being 'tin cans' ( any one else chuckle at Chevy using this samecrap in advertising against the Ford 150 this year? ). However, properly cared for, and even slightly abused, they can easily go 20+ years. My '91 Cannondale is still going strong, and it is still using it's original cranks and brakes, though the chainrings, cassettes, chains and pads have all been replaced many times.
Carbon frames? often they get some of the same crap that aluminum did. Yeah, they are more fragile in some ways, but if you aren't abusing them, I think they too will hold up as long as you could reasonably ask them too given a little love, and mitigatiing the frame damaging abuse that some people seem incapable of avoiding.
I should point out that I own bikes of all three of these materials, though the steel frame Bianchi isn't listed mostly because it is currently torn down and being rebuilt.
Properly welded steel frames ( e.g., not $99 Huffy's with clamps on the rear dropouts ) should last pretty much forever given decent care. Metal fatigue is real, but properly cared for, your average sized rider isn't likely to produce enough stress on a regular basis to fatigue a good frame.
Aluminum frames always got a bad rap as being 'tin cans' ( any one else chuckle at Chevy using this samecrap in advertising against the Ford 150 this year? ). However, properly cared for, and even slightly abused, they can easily go 20+ years. My '91 Cannondale is still going strong, and it is still using it's original cranks and brakes, though the chainrings, cassettes, chains and pads have all been replaced many times.
Carbon frames? often they get some of the same crap that aluminum did. Yeah, they are more fragile in some ways, but if you aren't abusing them, I think they too will hold up as long as you could reasonably ask them too given a little love, and mitigatiing the frame damaging abuse that some people seem incapable of avoiding.
I should point out that I own bikes of all three of these materials, though the steel frame Bianchi isn't listed mostly because it is currently torn down and being rebuilt.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Middelbury, Vermont
Posts: 1,105
Bikes: Giant Escape 1
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 136 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
I bought a Lotus Excelle in the 1980s. It was a mid-level bike for the time and cost over $400 which was an incredible amount for me at the time. I rode the heck out of it but when my kids came along, it stayed in the garage for 12-15 years. I took it out and started riding again but then bought a higher-level version of the bike from the same era at a yard sale. Much better. Got rid of the Lotus. Then I bought a Giant Escape 1 last summer. Got rid of the other bike too. I'm a real frugal (cheap) Vermonter who normally lives by the motto, "Use it up. Wear it out. Make it do, or do without." Yes, bikes can and do last decades, but...
#21
Señor Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,063
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 647 Post(s)
Liked 285 Times
in
209 Posts
I disagree with your $100 downward trickle theory. The features often show up at lower price points, but the quality of the more expensive stuff is still superior, generally leading to longer service life.
For instance, twenty years ago there was a 7 speed group called RX100, and it was approximately in the Shimano lineup where Tiagra is now. Tiagra is now 10 speed, but the construction of the moving parts is the same as RX100. Ultegra was 8 speed around the same time, but was built with higher quality than RX100 and is still superior in many ways to 10 speed Tiagra.
Or
1994 XTR was an 8 speed set, but is much higher quality than current 9 speed Alivio.
Don't be fooled by features - the better stuff really is 'better'
For instance, twenty years ago there was a 7 speed group called RX100, and it was approximately in the Shimano lineup where Tiagra is now. Tiagra is now 10 speed, but the construction of the moving parts is the same as RX100. Ultegra was 8 speed around the same time, but was built with higher quality than RX100 and is still superior in many ways to 10 speed Tiagra.
Or
1994 XTR was an 8 speed set, but is much higher quality than current 9 speed Alivio.
Don't be fooled by features - the better stuff really is 'better'
#22
cowboy, steel horse, etc
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 40,695
Bikes: everywhere
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9883 Post(s)
Liked 4,854 Times
in
2,537 Posts
1999ish rx100 7-sp stuff is pretty hearty. WAY better than Sora stuff that came after it. Rx100 had more metal and less plastic in the brifters and no thumb button.
#24
Nigel
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,991
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
Our newest bike is 1994 Trek T50 tandem, my oldest is a 1976 Nishiki International. Currently, my main commuter is a 1992 Schwinn Paramount Design Group Series 70, my back up is a 1982 Schwinn World Tourist.