Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling Do you enjoy centuries, double centuries, brevets, randonnees, and 24-hour time trials? Share ride reports, and exchange training, equipment, and nutrition information specific to long distance cycling. This isn't for tours, this is for endurance events cycling

Entry Level Bike for Long Distance

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Old 09-21-17, 12:05 PM
  #26  
unterhausen
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an old trek 500 or 700 series will work pretty well. Late '70s, early '80s when they were sports touring bikes.
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Old 09-25-17, 08:12 AM
  #27  
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What about new touring bikes, like Fuji Touring, Windsor Tourist, Trek 520?

Are they too heavy to be good long distance endurance, (e.g. riding a century every weekend)?
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Old 09-25-17, 09:28 AM
  #28  
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You may give up a few pounds with a tourist, but the geometry and wider tires are both good for long rides. I've done up to 400k on one (and the engine is the limiter, not the bike!).
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Old 09-25-17, 10:07 AM
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A bike designed for fully-touring may be excessively heavy and stiff for unloaded weekend century riding.

I've ridden the 2017 Fuji Touring bike both loaded (@25lbs rear/@15 front) and unloaded and it was a much better ride loaded. Unloaded it felt harsh and lacked a lively feel. About par for the course IME.
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Old 09-25-17, 02:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
What about new touring bikes, like Fuji Touring, Windsor Tourist, Trek 520?

Are they too heavy to be good long distance endurance, (e.g. riding a century every weekend)?
Those bikes would likely serve your purpose well. They may be slightly overbuilt, but that's rarely a problem. Set aside $60-$75 to "upgrade" the tires (to faster, more comfortable, less durable ones) if you buy a stock touring bike. Lots of people are getting addicted to the feel of Continental GP4000 S II 28mm tires or Compass tires. Go on, try 'em.
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Old 09-25-17, 09:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
I am gettting the Wellingston 1.0 ($260). That'll leave me some left for a 80s Japan road bike...I can carefully find.
This bike could work for you, if you do some things.

First and foremost is to ensure it fits. Google bike fit, read up, and see what you can do. Best case it fits with just seat adjustment, next best you'll need a new stem. Worst case it's not doable. Good luck. Whatever you do, don't do centuries on a bike that's too small or too big.

A distant third is tires. Stock tires on low end bikes are usually slugs.

Since you've got the bike, give it a go.
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Old 09-25-17, 10:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CliffordK View Post
Save up to 60% off new Road Bikes - Gravity Avenue A | Save up to 60% off new road bikes

Oh, wow, I didn't realize anybody still made stem shifters!!!
I saw a Gravity [bike] at a dairy queen last year. It looked pretty solid. Stem shifter do save money.... and are a known device.
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Old 09-26-17, 08:22 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Dave Cutter View Post
I saw a Gravity [bike] at a dairy queen last year. It looked pretty solid. Stem shifter do save money.... and are a known device.
I accepted delivery of the Windsor. The aluminum frame look well made indeed.
But wish it is steel instead for the slender model look...this AL frame looks rather portly. Can't be admired like my steel frame bikes...but this bike is not about looking good...it is about doing centuries!
The components are old skool.
The Shimano stem shifter works very well...it is indexed precisely, so it clicks.
The BB is cartridged style, which is good news...feels very smooth.
(Bad news is when I was putting it together, the bike fell off the work stand and landed on the crank...I hope the fall didn't damage the BB bearing)
BD said the hub has cassette, but instead it has ol' skool freewheel.
It has 28 width tire. At 60 psi, it feels pretty comfy.
Fork is chromoly and has plenty of room for wider tire.
But not sure if the chainstay'll allow bigger tire.

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Old 09-26-17, 08:25 AM
  #34  
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looks like it's time to get ready for the weekend!
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Old 09-26-17, 03:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
I accepted delivery of the Windsor.......
It is always exciting to get.... and get to know a new bike.

Be sure to take the time here at the forums to read about training for... and the risks involved... with long distance riding. Things like bonking and dehydrating can have serious (even deadly) consequences. People generally tend to rush into doing too much with a new sport or activity. Take your time.
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Old 09-27-17, 08:39 AM
  #36  
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What is the minimum tire pressure should I can be using?
Tire says 90 psi maximum...but doesn't say minimum.
It is 700c, 28 wide...no name brand.
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Old 09-27-17, 08:55 AM
  #37  
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Try 60psi front, 70 psi rear. You can refine that guess with the chart below. Assume 45% of your total weight is on the front wheel, 55% on the rear wheel.
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Old 09-27-17, 08:58 AM
  #38  
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Oh yeah, the minimum pressure will be the pressure at which you don't get pinch flats. The chart above is fairly conservative on that front.
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Old 09-27-17, 12:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by OneIsAllYouNeed View Post
Oh yeah, the minimum pressure will be the pressure at which you don't get pinch flats. The chart above is fairly conservative on that front.
Dat is an awesome graph.
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Old 09-28-17, 04:35 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
What is the minimum tire pressure should I can be using?
Tire says 90 psi maximum...but doesn't say minimum.
It is 700c, 28 wide...no name brand.
Take a look at this site:
Bicycle tire pressure calculator

Scroll down to the second section.
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Old 09-28-17, 04:37 PM
  #41  
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FWIW, I am running 80/100 with total weight (bike/rider/accessories) of 240#.

Huge improvement over the "run it at the max tire rating of 120 for minimum rolling resistance"!
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Old 10-10-17, 11:02 AM
  #42  
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There is a Centurion Sport dlx...described as a "beauty" and in "good condition" and already had a "full tune up".Can't tell from the blurry images. How much should I pay?

Is it normal to expect scratches and some surface rust on a 30 year old steel bicycle, if seller is asking over $250?

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Old 10-10-17, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
There is a Centurion Sport dlx...described as a "beauty" and in "good condition" and already had a "full tune up".Can't tell from the blurry images. How much should I pay?

Is it normal to expect scratches and some surface rust on a 30 year old steel bicycle, if seller is asking over $250?
Unless that bike is something special (and it may be - I have no idea) I would expect to pay $50-100.

What you should pay is what you think it's worth.

Just remember that the advice given here is probably worth about what you paid for it. Sometimes a bit more, often a bit less.
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Old 10-10-17, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FlamsteadHill View Post
Unless that bike is something special (and it may be - I have no idea) I would expect to pay $50-100.

What you should pay is what you think it's worth.

Just remember that the advice given here is probably worth about what you paid for it. Sometimes a bit more, often a bit less.

If seller asking $250, is it normal to offer $100?

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Old 10-10-17, 02:12 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FlamsteadHill View Post
Unless that bike is something special (and it may be - I have no idea) I would expect to pay $50-100.

What you should pay is what you think it's worth.

Just remember that the advice given here is probably worth about what you paid for it. Sometimes a bit more, often a bit less.
I agree that a selling price is a unique number between the buyer and seller.

Prices also apparently aren't uniform across the USA, or between countries. Although what one person might pay also doesn't reflect what everyone would expect to pay in the same community. Nor do asking prices on Craigslist always reflect reasonable selling prices.

Personally I favor vintage European bikes to vintage Japanese bikes, although I have read good things about the Japanese bikes.

However, what I observe for asking prices, anything under $100 around here will be pretty battered Murray or similar bikes. Even a vintage Schwinn Varsity in decent shape could easily break $100.

A quality tune-up is worth a fair amount, although many of the "flippers" even on this website admit doing things like choosing the cheapest tires.

As far as scratches and surface rust for a $250 bike, it would all depend on the bike, but yes, I'd expect to see some light wear on any 30 year old bicycle, and some bikes could have really heavy wear and still be valued at well above $250.
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Old 10-10-17, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
If seller asking $250, is it normal to offer $100?
Ever watch Fast-n-Loud? Richard would offer the $50 on a $250 ask.

If you want to go more Pawn Star-esque you could always ask "So, where did you come up with the $250 number?". For me, sometimes the asking price is a good starting point, others, it was pulled out of the sky just to get someone to look at it.
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Old 10-11-17, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
If seller asking $250, is it normal to offer $100?
I usually ask if their price is negotiable and if so, what is there low.

I don't usually try to negotiate on their low price since I can usually judge how close we are with it.
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Old 10-12-17, 01:23 PM
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How long do components last? I mean like the derailors and cassette and chainring. Would they still work likely on an 80s touring bike?

Or they usually wore out by now? And expect to have to replace 'em asap.


ps

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Old 10-12-17, 02:06 PM
  #49  
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What about Schwinn Varsity? I'm seeing alot of those. Looks like a touring geometry. Any good for long distance?
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Old 10-16-17, 07:28 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by mtb_addict View Post
...but this bike is not about looking good...it is about doing centuries!
How many centuries on this Windsor so far? Working out well for distance?
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