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What pedals do you use?

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Old 02-20-18, 01:28 PM
  #26  
1nterceptor
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Originally Posted by vinuneuro View Post
I am reconsidering the mtb pedals for these. While dual sided is nice, I'm not sure we unclip/clip in enough for it to be worth the weight. The 93g weight saving over XTR M9020 and 118g over XT M8020 is tempting. I'm not a weight weenie for frame components but as a higher cadence cyclist I can't help but wonder if removing this rotating weight would help on long rides.
Xpedo lists the weight for their ti spindled M Force 8 at 215 gms. I remember weighing them when I got them a few years ago and the specs were accurate.

R Force(one sided) is even lighter at 170 gms; used this to do a 100 mile charity ride:
100 Miles(160 Km.) on a Brompton by 1nterceptor, on Flickr
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Old 02-20-18, 06:35 PM
  #27  
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Shimano PD-T421

One side SPD, other side platform pedal, big plastic platform for support.

I use this only because my rando bike is sometimes used as an "around town" commuting bike and I want to wear tennis shoes for ease of walking around.
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Old 02-21-18, 03:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vinuneuro View Post
The current plan is to stick with mtb shoes and spd pedals. Is it better to go for pedals with the extra platform rather than without? I'm leaning towards getting them since I don't want an ultra stiff racing shoe and the only cost is an extra ~70g.

I like Shimano because their stuff tends to be reliabile, but are there any others that work well for long distance? Many of my long rides are gravel which can be a little muddy during rainy season.

I've got Shimano A530's on a couple bikes that I occasionally want to be able to use the flat side, especially in the winter when I bike in hiking boots for warmth. Those seem to shed mud fine, as I use them on a gravel bike without issue. On a bike that is road only, I went with the A520, which I think is the marginally heavier cousin to the A600 at 315g. They look very similar, both are single sided with a larger platform to support your foot. I waffled a while, as I thought I wanted double-sided, but decided I'd go with less weight, and the clip side is always on top anyway.
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Old 02-22-18, 10:17 AM
  #29  
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Mix of Shimano XT SPD and XTR SPD on all my bikes. All non-platform, std race style. Use them on both road and mtn.
Several pairs of shoes.
Clean snappy looking ones for the road bikes.
Beat up ones for the mtn bikes.
Shoes are all stiff enough but walkable. Cleats last forever. Pedals clip in n out well. Never have to worry about getting off the bike in the dirt, wet grass etc.
They just work for me.
Good luck.

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Old 02-22-18, 10:37 AM
  #30  
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XTR PD-M9000 Pedals with MTB shoes. Easier both on and off the bike.
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Old 02-22-18, 02:46 PM
  #31  
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After a lot of deliberation I decided to go for the XTR M9000. The A600's were attractive because of the weight but I read of too many people saying they can be a little hard to get in and out of even with tension fully reduced and that they have less float than other Shimano pedals. My feet tend to be quite pronated while pedaling so the reduced float was a major point of concern.

Regarding M9000 vs. M9020, most people in the mtb forums said they didn't notice a difference between the two for stability. The shoes I'm looking at are quite stiff so I'll give the M9000's a shot and see how they go. Majority of the feedback I've read about the M9020 with extra cage/platform has been that they mainly help with the frequent unclip/clip that some types of mtb riding involves.
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Old 02-22-18, 03:47 PM
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Don't get to concerned about float. Just make sure to mount the cleats to the shoes so they match your angle of dangle.
Not everyone likes straight ahead pointing feets. My buddy has one wonky leg and just mounts that cleat to match. All is good.
Pedal on.
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Old 02-22-18, 04:57 PM
  #33  
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After losing a cleat bolt last summer, I now use blue Loctite on my cleat bolts.
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Old 02-22-18, 07:10 PM
  #34  
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Yup, good to check cleat bolts on new mtn bike shoes after a day or so. They tend to squish/bite into the soles some and need a re-torque. After that they are usually pretty good.
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Old 02-22-18, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stevoo View Post
Yup, good to check cleat bolts on new mtn bike shoes after a day or so. They tend to squish/bite into the soles some and need a re-torque. After that they are usually pretty good.
I usually find it takes a few months before the cleats and bolts are fully set, but can still loosen after longer. The cleat bolt I lost last summer, that bolt had been re-torqued over the years several times. I usually checked all of my shoes each spring.
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Old 02-23-18, 10:38 AM
  #36  
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^ I just carry an extra bolt and washer in my backpack. I don't use SPD, but losing a bolt is a pretty universal issue for all pedal systems.
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