tgomes

For those who like the EL-500 the EL-530 is now out and is 50% brighter for about the same cost. Run time is a bit less but should still go all night without a battery change.

Rowan

Without laboring it too much... the effectiveness of a light really is determined by the optics that the light shines on and through (reflector and lens). This is where the German lights (B&M, Lumotech) come into their own, because despite the 3W halogen globe (or 2.5W if using a rear light as well), they have the optical technology to make the most of that output...

There was an interesting discussion I read recently on use of LEDs fitted to a convention light that originally used a halogen globe, giving the best of both worlds of battery life and optics. The LED needed a slight modification to fit, I believe.

bmike

I think this is correct. I emailed Danolite about modifying 2 of their lights for use with my dyno, and while he agreed it would be a wonderful solution, he'd need to devise something as you describe between the light and the dyno.

Rowan

The North American importer of SON and B&M, etc, has a new product on his website about an LED that can be connected up to any type of power source, from batteries at 6-18 volt and dynohubs, and a microprocessor, I think, makes the instant decision on how to handle it.

stapfam

Seversal mentions about the Cateye EL500 and this is a good light. However, for on road I also like to have an EL300 to compliment it. The 500 is a spot lamp and the 300 a flood. Plus the fact- it is safer to have two lights on a bike, just in case one fails. I am actually an offroader and I did use these two lamps- coupled with a helmet lamp for some of my gentler offroad rides. For this year I have gone and bought a powerfull twin 5w Luxion Lamp with an L Ion battery. What a difference!!! It has 3 setting on power and for trail or road riding I use the Low power setting. This will give me 8 hrs of light and is completely satisfactory for my evening 3 hours ride in the winter. Then If I want more power there are the high settings and the Turbo. Turbo will still give me over 2 hours battery life and is definitely strong enough for offroad.

It depends on what you want a lamp to do. If you want to be seen then most respectable Lamps will do it. If you want to see- then go for the most powerfull that you can afford as HID or Luxions with the L Ion batteries do not come cheap.

https://www.use1.com/exposure/product...duro/index.php

LWaB

Solidlights do a twin 3W LED dynamo headlight (with automatic switching designed to run off a Schmidt hub) that is quite popular with British Audaxers.

bmike

Those are cool. Anyone try one?

Marcello

https://www.solidlights.co.uk/products/1203d.php

Looks interesting. And pricy. It may be interesting to compare it to a twin E6 setup.

bmike

Doesn't talk about how quickly they come up to brightness. With my dual E6's I can run 1 when climbing and get weak, but acceptable light at 4 mph, which comes in handy on long grades here in the NE. (But I'll admit that lately I'll also flip on the headlamp too...)


Pricey for sure... the base dyno version is UK£ 140.00 = 265.18800 US$ (according to Google!)

LWaB

I've ridden with people using Solidlights and am contemplating them for the next PBP. They make dual B&Ms look dim and hit full power at lower speeds. Check for comments on "Another Cycling Forum".

Gratefulrider

I have to agree as I use the EL 500-2 or 3 of 'em on a handlebar mount w/ Lithium Batteries and after one brevet season and a 1200 K the cost was greater than the initial cost of a Schmidt Dyno Hubbed Wheel but they are the path I've chosen for now and they do work.

bmike

hmmm... have looked around with no luck.

a certain magazine's forum maybe?

Rowan

Hehehehe... I'm sorry about introducing the veiled references to the bike business in New Hampshire, but I had a less than acceptable outcome, not to do with product, but with the individual concerned when I arrived at the location after travelling half way around the world to see him. And yes, it was an arranged visit, so he knew I was coming. So I was dissatisfied with the service, and decline to use the business' name. I should add that his wife, Linda, was excellent in what she did, but she is not the persona of the business, nor had his knowledge for a very simple solution that he did not want to provide.

Marcello

I think he was referring to another cycling forum where the majority of members would be from the UK, and have more familiarity with the Solidlights lights. Perhaps this one or this one.

bmike

I know which business you speak of. Very near to my old home in S. Vermont.
I was referring to the forum... of which the post below will help me find. Thanks.

LWaB

I actually meant "Another Cycling Forum" If you Google it, the first hit is https://www.bikereader.com/forum/index.php I thought the quotes would give it away.

Dogbait

A good Solidlights thread

vik 

Anyone have any links or info about mounting a Solidlight 1203D midway up a fork leg the way dual E6's are often mounted? It looks fairly wide so I am not sure how that would work.

I would be mounting it on a recumbent with disc brakes so the fork crown, brake mount and handlebar options are not useful.

Also is there a North American source for Solidlights or do you have to order them from the UK?

stapfam

Agree about the "Nothing is overkill." I ride off road and last year was struggling with twin 10w lamps- one spot and one flood. Worked OK but speed was limited to how far you could see well. This Year I have started road riding at night and those lamps were still not good enough. Had to use my helmet lamp that has a directional spot to try to see as much as I want. Then decided to get some new lamps. Or rather a lamp. Main priority was to get power- but that is not needed all the time so switchable power or dim facility required to save battery life. Also needed more than 5 hours battery life. Looked at the HID lamps but were too expensive, and most were still lacking battery life. In the end looked at Luxion LED's.The Blackburn X6 was nearly my choice but it still lacked a bit of "oomph" Then tried the USE Exposure and this is what I got. Went for the Enduro model for offroad and battery life. On the dimmest setting I can get over 8 hours battery life. Around Town when There is street lighting, this is the setting I use.To be honest- it is the setting that is suitable for most road requirements, but it is nice to switch up to Turbo and see the world in all its glory. Other advantages? Completey self contained so no cable to a separate battery. If required, batteries are easy to change so a spare can be carried easily. Instant light- which is not the case with an HID lamp and you can switch it on and off at will- no waiting to cool down before switching back on after use. Then again it is fairly lightweight. Disadvantage is the cost, as this is not cheap but for a lamp that betters a lot of the cheaper HID's, and has better battery life, it is not that expensive.

https://www.exposurelights.com/

Paul L.

I recently bought a shimano 3n71 hub and built a wheel around it. Connected to this hub is a state of the art home made quad Luxeon III setup (with 4, 6 degree collimaters and driven by a buckpuck with a bridgerectifier in front of it. at less than 5 mph I get a slight strobe effect, anything above and I get solid light. This gives me plenty of light at moderate speed and grows brighter as I speed up. I think I like this even more than my HID actually, it isn't quite as bright but is a lot less fuss as I can just leave everything attached to the bike. I had it up between 30 and 40 mph for a pretty gnarly descent the other day and it pulled through with flying colors. If anyone is interested in details just let me know. I really like this setup as I don't need to worry about switching lights on and off depending on if I am going downhill or not. I have around 70 miles on the light so far without a single issue.

Shimano 3n71 hub - $90 (Harris Cycles AKA Sheldon Brown's place of employment)
Velocity Aerohead rim - $48 (superspokes.com)
Spokes - $30 (ebay)
Leds- $12 (luxeon.com)
Buckpuck - $20 (Do a search on the internet, I used an extra one from an older light)
Bridge Rectifier - $3 (Radio Shack)
Aluminum L stock - $10 (HomeDepot- aluminum is used to mount the lights so that we get both a light mount and a heatsink with one part)
Waterproof switch- $10 (batteryspace.com)
(JB Weld is used to hold it all together)


Total - $223 for a wicked bright dynohub light that is very close to the efficiency of the Schmidt hub. Myself, I will save the $300 extra dollars and lose a minute or two every 100 miles.

Incidentally, to keep me visible at stops I just put a PrincetonTec Eos on the bike at lowest setting. This gives me an incredibly long runtime and a good be seen light.