OCR, Roubaix, or what for long rides?
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OCR, Roubaix, or what for long rides?
41 year old just into biking last year. 5'9", 210 pounds. Currently riding a Cannondale CAAD 4. Bike feels short to me, not in height but length. Test road a Specialized Roubaix and a Giant OCR C2 yesterday. Not sure if they are the best bike for my level. Plan on doing rides to lose weight, a century or two this summer, MS150 again. I think comfort and speed are my biggest concerns for these longer rides. I tend to ride in a more upright position. Any suggestions or advice on my next bike?
#2
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Hrm.....
I wouldn't sweat the details too much. Almost any bike that has the position you like and slightly wide tires (28c's?) will very likely fit the bill. That said:
Roubaix-style bikes are a good option. They are basically a road bike, with a couple of minor tweaks to make it more comfortable. Personally I don't put much stock in the whole "Zerts" thing, but they will be able to use wider tires than a standard road bike.
"All-rounder" or light touring bikes may also do the trick: Bianchi Volpe, Salsa Casseroll, Specialized Sequoia.
I wouldn't sweat the details too much. Almost any bike that has the position you like and slightly wide tires (28c's?) will very likely fit the bill. That said:
Roubaix-style bikes are a good option. They are basically a road bike, with a couple of minor tweaks to make it more comfortable. Personally I don't put much stock in the whole "Zerts" thing, but they will be able to use wider tires than a standard road bike.
"All-rounder" or light touring bikes may also do the trick: Bianchi Volpe, Salsa Casseroll, Specialized Sequoia.
#3
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I have a Specialized Roubaix Elite triple and if you want comfort, that's the bike to buy. I also have a steel Jamis and the carbon bike rides just as smooth. I read on the RAAM sight that they like carbon and that's what made me look at these. Good luck, there's so many to chose from.
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Thanks for the input
I just test road a Cannondale Synapse(?) all carbon and I really liked the way it felt. It was also a 3000+ bike. I'll check out the models you suggested.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year!
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I have the Roubaix Elite Triple (2005 model) and have found it to be quite comfortable on centuries and double centuries. It allows for a pretty upright riding style if you want, and it can take at least 28c tires.
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Don't forget to have a glance at brands like Marinoni, Waterford, Rivendell, Gunnar, etc.
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IMO, probably the biggest single factor where comfort is concerned is tire width. With few exceptions, a wider tire will be more comfortable -- and don't let people BS you about using the narrowest possibly tire for speed: it's now been proven that wide tires roll better than narrow ones, assuming identical construction.
So in your shoes, I'd be looking for a bike with clearance for 25-30mm tires.
So in your shoes, I'd be looking for a bike with clearance for 25-30mm tires.
#9
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41 year old just into biking last year. 5'9", 210 pounds. Currently riding a Cannondale CAAD 4. Bike feels short to me, not in height but length. Test road a Specialized Roubaix and a Giant OCR C2 yesterday. Not sure if they are the best bike for my level. Plan on doing rides to lose weight, a century or two this summer, MS150 again. I think comfort and speed are my biggest concerns for these longer rides. I tend to ride in a more upright position. Any suggestions or advice on my next bike?
Remember, you can get a longer stem, change the angle of the stem, and get a seatpost with more setback.
Oh ... from fitting a few women I know ... also check that the reach of brifters is short enough. In the past, the brake reach was too long and they would rotate their hands to extend their grip resulting in an awkward bend in their elbow. In each case, they all claimed that the bike was too short.
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Thanks Invisiblehand
Just got my old bike fitted yesterday. feels like a whole new bike. A few minor adjustments on my seat height, setback, new shoes and pedals and I'm set. I still have the new bike lust and it was difficult to walk out of the store knowing that there were so many bikes in there waiting to be ridden but you helped me save a boatload of money.
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41 year old just into biking last year. 5'9", 210 pounds. Currently riding a Cannondale CAAD 4. Bike feels short to me, not in height but length. Test road a Specialized Roubaix and a Giant OCR C2 yesterday. Not sure if they are the best bike for my level. Plan on doing rides to lose weight, a century or two this summer, MS150 again. I think comfort and speed are my biggest concerns for these longer rides. I tend to ride in a more upright position. Any suggestions or advice on my next bike?
That being said, there is no easy way to mount fenders or a rack. It will not take 28mm tires. I'd need to swap our the carbon seatpost to mount a saddlebag ...
I am just about to order a Marinoni Sportivo frame and I plan to move all of the components from my older Cannondale CAAD3 R600 over. I expect a total cost of < $1000 CDN, assuming no residual value from the CAAD 3 frame.
I will weigh a couple of pounds more than the Roubaix but it has lots of advantages as well.
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Just got my old bike fitted yesterday. feels like a whole new bike. A few minor adjustments on my seat height, setback, new shoes and pedals and I'm set. I still have the new bike lust and it was difficult to walk out of the store knowing that there were so many bikes in there waiting to be ridden but you helped me save a boatload of money.
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I saw a really positive review of the Felt Z35 as an audax bike, in Cycling Plus. Anyone tried it?
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I have a modified OCR 3 and it's a terrific bike. I started riding 2 years ago and kept the bike stock. Last year I switched the wheels to Shimano wh-R550's, Ultegra RD, 105 FD and Tiagara shifters and a 9 speed rear cassette.. I have used this bike for a 27 mile race, 6 day tour, back to back centurys (TOSRV) and a couple of overnighters. You just can't beat a Giant for quality and components at a certain price point. You'll always get more for the same dollar spent. The OCR 3 has the same frame as the 1 & 2. There are several on ebay . Any newer bike will get the job done. Just find one that you like looking at and that you feel it "fits" you well and go for it. Wardie
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I would try a couple of REALLY long rides before you decide the bike is too short. I just figured out all my back pain on rides over 80 miles in the past was due to a longer reach than I should have had. Doing a triathlon recently I slid my seat up all the way to simulate more of a tri bike position and wow, the back pain reduced by quite a lot. So, throwing all roadie pride to the wind, (my frame is really too big it turns out, I should be on a 58cm) I bought a 35degree stem to bring my bars up to a 5- 8 cm drop (guy that setup my bike was an idiot, next time they don't touch the fork tube until I tell them how long). The next 300k in a couple of weeks should be even better than the last one in December. Don't give in to the hype, smoke and mirrors about aggressive positions, if you can't hold it for 5+ hours then it will not buy you any time in the long run and may even bring you to a painful stalemate.
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For me, the bottom line is: Take a big grain of salt when you're taking advice on bicycle positioning from bike store people who've never ridden 40 hours straight on a 600K! A position that is uncomfortable but bearable on a century ride -- say 10 hours max with stops -- can be unbearably painful when you're riding nearly four times as far and four times as long on a 600K.
It sounds like you can probably get your current bike set up as you need it. Keep experimenting, even if it means you have to buy new parts, and even if those parts are not "stylish" (e.g., a threadless-stem extender, if you can't get your stem high enough with a stem that is angled up). Better to spend a little money now on getting your bike adjusted to where it needs to be, and then buy a new bike based on what you've learned, than to buy a new bike now only to find out that it isn't what you really need.
Having ridden seven different bikes on my brevets last year, I can say with confidence that the bike doesn't make all that much difference (within reason) as long as you've got the same geometry of the "touch points" (hands, feet, and butt). (The "within reason" wiggle word is there, because I don't think I could possibly push my mountain bike with winter-studded tires for 125 miles, no matter how well it fits.)
It sounds like you can probably get your current bike set up as you need it. Keep experimenting, even if it means you have to buy new parts, and even if those parts are not "stylish" (e.g., a threadless-stem extender, if you can't get your stem high enough with a stem that is angled up). Better to spend a little money now on getting your bike adjusted to where it needs to be, and then buy a new bike based on what you've learned, than to buy a new bike now only to find out that it isn't what you really need.
Having ridden seven different bikes on my brevets last year, I can say with confidence that the bike doesn't make all that much difference (within reason) as long as you've got the same geometry of the "touch points" (hands, feet, and butt). (The "within reason" wiggle word is there, because I don't think I could possibly push my mountain bike with winter-studded tires for 125 miles, no matter how well it fits.)
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For me, the bottom line is: Take a big grain of salt when you're taking advice on bicycle positioning from bike store people who've never ridden 40 hours straight on a 600K! A position that is uncomfortable but bearable on a century ride -- say 10 hours max with stops -- can be unbearably painful when you're riding nearly four times as far and four times as long on a 600K.
Yes, good advice. I laugh every time I go to my LBS and some hotshot tries to talk me into replacing my Brooks saddle for some new titanium thing-a-ma-jig saddle.