First Post - Rediscovering Mountainbiking - Advice requested
05-12-05, 11:48 AM
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First Post - Rediscovering Mountainbiking - Advice requested
Hello, I am really glad I found this forum. I haven't ridden in a long time and I decided to get by bike rebuilt and repainted. It really looks great now.
I guess the thing I want to ask is about upgrading some components. Right now I have a 2002 Gary Fisher Big Sur, basically all stock still. I want to drop some weight, but also want to keep durability. I am not an aggressive or hard rider if that helps.
wheelsets are Bontrager SuperStock, WTB Slickasaurus
Fork: Black Manitou
Brakes - V-brake Shimano LX integrated
Crank: Bontrager
Derailer: Front Shimano LX, Rear Shimano XT
I guess the first thing, and most affordable right now is the drivetrain.
I would like to upgrade the brakes sometime soon to Hydraulic Disc, but it will take me new hubs, rims, etc. shifters, so that is a bigger project than I can afford right now.
Also, on a side matter...is there any type of covers for the brake levers that will protect a new paint job on the frame from the bars turning into them and chipping or ruining the paint?
Thanks
David
I guess the thing I want to ask is about upgrading some components. Right now I have a 2002 Gary Fisher Big Sur, basically all stock still. I want to drop some weight, but also want to keep durability. I am not an aggressive or hard rider if that helps.
wheelsets are Bontrager SuperStock, WTB Slickasaurus
Fork: Black Manitou
Brakes - V-brake Shimano LX integrated
Crank: Bontrager
Derailer: Front Shimano LX, Rear Shimano XT
I guess the first thing, and most affordable right now is the drivetrain.
I would like to upgrade the brakes sometime soon to Hydraulic Disc, but it will take me new hubs, rims, etc. shifters, so that is a bigger project than I can afford right now.
Also, on a side matter...is there any type of covers for the brake levers that will protect a new paint job on the frame from the bars turning into them and chipping or ruining the paint?
Thanks
David
05-12-05, 11:59 AM
#2
I couldn't car less.
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Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
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Rubber around the toptube where the lever will strike.
They make them for road bikes, any piece of rubber with 2 zap straps will do.
They make them for road bikes, any piece of rubber with 2 zap straps will do.
05-12-05, 12:13 PM
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Your component list looks ok. There isn't a lot you can do cheaply at this point that will drop noticeable weight. I don't know about the tires, but if they are wire bead, Kevlars will usually be a bit lighter. If you don't live in a thorny or flat prone area get ultralite tubes perhaps. You can drop some weight with the crank and BB if you go to something nice like an XT or even an LX crank probably. Discs will add weight. You could probably get a little lighter fork, but the Blacks aren't usually too terribly heavy.
Maybe go with a lighter bar and stem combo? Thompson seatpost and an SLR saddle? A good stem like a Thompson or a Thompson seatpost will be very light but much stronger than stock. For bars, I like Easton generally speaking. Stock saddles are usually way heavy, so you can save 100g+ with a midrange aftermarket saddle in some cases.
Maybe go with a lighter bar and stem combo? Thompson seatpost and an SLR saddle? A good stem like a Thompson or a Thompson seatpost will be very light but much stronger than stock. For bars, I like Easton generally speaking. Stock saddles are usually way heavy, so you can save 100g+ with a midrange aftermarket saddle in some cases.
05-12-05, 01:05 PM
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I couldn't car less.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
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Some things I did was get rid of the quick release for hex out skewers, no QR on the seatclamp either\bolt.
Lost the granny ring and bolts, I replaced any long bolts with shorties.
measured the 4 inch insertion lower than my max hight for the post -chopped the rest, chopped the bars down to the least I need.
I removed any relectors, lights =use reflecto-tape. One bottle cage =no fenders, bells, kickstands, racks, frame packs.
The most difference you'ld feel is a new rim set, seeing how you have a suspension fork -run a lightweight racing rim front. My riding style =I damage my rear more, where the weight is. A strong rear rim sure, but maybe balance the fork weight by just trying the rim replacement front.
Lightweight XC racing tires, or semi-slicks 1.75 or 1.5.
CF handlebars and post if you have the $$.
And I don't use dust caps on my valves -those things are LEAD!
Good thing my dremel isn't working, my components would look like swiss cheese.
Lost the granny ring and bolts, I replaced any long bolts with shorties.
measured the 4 inch insertion lower than my max hight for the post -chopped the rest, chopped the bars down to the least I need.
I removed any relectors, lights =use reflecto-tape. One bottle cage =no fenders, bells, kickstands, racks, frame packs.
The most difference you'ld feel is a new rim set, seeing how you have a suspension fork -run a lightweight racing rim front. My riding style =I damage my rear more, where the weight is. A strong rear rim sure, but maybe balance the fork weight by just trying the rim replacement front.
Lightweight XC racing tires, or semi-slicks 1.75 or 1.5.
CF handlebars and post if you have the $$.
And I don't use dust caps on my valves -those things are LEAD!
Good thing my dremel isn't working, my components would look like swiss cheese.
