Specialized HARDRock Sport...what can it do?
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Specialized HARDRock Sport...what can it do?
So I just got my new tires Raiyn.
Now I'm wondering....what is the endurance limit for the entry level hardrock sport? How hard can I push it?
I know that its not good for downhill racing obviously but does that mean all it can do is light trails? Please explain.
Also, there is alot of talk about the hardware of mtbiking here. How about teaching me how to ride the thing? LOL
How is mountain biking riding technique different from road biking besides the physical ground your pedaling on? What sort of skills would I have to learn if any besides simply riding. I would like to know.
TEACH MEEE ARGHHHH!!! :|
Now I'm wondering....what is the endurance limit for the entry level hardrock sport? How hard can I push it?
I know that its not good for downhill racing obviously but does that mean all it can do is light trails? Please explain.
Also, there is alot of talk about the hardware of mtbiking here. How about teaching me how to ride the thing? LOL
How is mountain biking riding technique different from road biking besides the physical ground your pedaling on? What sort of skills would I have to learn if any besides simply riding. I would like to know.
TEACH MEEE ARGHHHH!!! :|
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I think the best thing you could do is ride as much and as often as possible. Get a feel for the bike and the trail. Be one with yourself. Go in peace young padawan.
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biggest thing compared to roadbikes is keeping your balance in all situations,and you gotta look a little more where you are riding.
how hard can you push the HR sport ,i don't know ,but it pretty much depends on your weight .if you are only 120 pounds you can probably go pritty big on it .
how hard can you push the HR sport ,i don't know ,but it pretty much depends on your weight .if you are only 120 pounds you can probably go pritty big on it .
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Originally Posted by monkey69
biggest thing compared to roadbikes is keeping your balance in all situations,and you gotta look a little more where you are riding.
how hard can you push the HR sport ,i don't know ,but it pretty much depends on your weight .if you are only 120 pounds you can probably go pritty big on it .
how hard can you push the HR sport ,i don't know ,but it pretty much depends on your weight .if you are only 120 pounds you can probably go pritty big on it .
Bout 220...but I am currently losing weight and I want to CONTINUE. Hopefully after the summer if I'm lucky will be under 200.
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than it won't go very hard !!!!you will have like 3 inches negative travel just from sitting on it
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Yeah! I just bought a Hardrock Sport this past Monday, had flat handlebars put on, and Armadillo Nimbus tires for the street.
I'm having so much fun riding it... I can ride a lot harder than I can on my LeMond or Bianchi. It's great fun... hopping up curbs and over bumps and stuff.
And the price was just right!!!
I'm having so much fun riding it... I can ride a lot harder than I can on my LeMond or Bianchi. It's great fun... hopping up curbs and over bumps and stuff.
And the price was just right!!!
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I rock peas on my head but don’t call me a pea head.
Bees on my head but don’t call me a bee head.
Bruce Lee’s on my head but don’t call me a Lee head.
Now please excuse me, I gots to get my tree fed.
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Two words: Spring Upgrade
Oh raiyn by the way.......your tire suggestion vs the specialized 03 team control. LOL just curious.
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Two words: Spring Upgrade
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The comp comes with a Marchozzi and the sport comes with an RST. (forgeot names of models). So is the Marchozzi a lot differnt from the RST? I was wondering what the comp had that the RST didn't? I'm guessing just more quality parts, but then I thought it might have been the fork.
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on the marzocchi you could go for the spring update.that will work for most people if you don't plan on crazy jumps and drops.don't get me wrong though ,its not a great fork!!
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Hold on. So your saying I can upgrade the springs inside of the fork???
How much is that gonna cost and what kind of performance boost would I get ?
Oh and raiyn? the thing we was discussing? Is the answer the PRICE?
How much is that gonna cost and what kind of performance boost would I get ?
Oh and raiyn? the thing we was discussing? Is the answer the PRICE?
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Originally Posted by StalkerZERO
Hold on. So your saying I can upgrade the springs inside of the fork???
How much is that gonna cost and what kind of performance boost would I get ?
Oh and raiyn? the thing we was discussing? Is the answer the PRICE?
How much is that gonna cost and what kind of performance boost would I get ?
Oh and raiyn? the thing we was discussing? Is the answer the PRICE?
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I'm gonna ask my LBS today about the fork if it can be updated. Would be interesting info for the forum I think. I'll let u know later.
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well the mz comp can be upgraded and i would not even bouther upgrading the rst .but that is my opinion.
i really think you should get the comp ,the sport just doesnt seem to the right bike for you .i bet you will be happier if you wait and save another month and bike that is rather suitable for your weight.
i really think you should get the comp ,the sport just doesnt seem to the right bike for you .i bet you will be happier if you wait and save another month and bike that is rather suitable for your weight.
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O.k., enough about the bike. It'll work just fine to get you going! Seriously, the dude's not going to drop off a loading dock his first week out.
You guys lose focus on what's important. RIDING!
You are so concerned about how good this fork is, these brakes...etc. Guess what? It don't matter. As long as it works, it'll get you riding on the trails and it'll put a smile on your face.
Now, skills you'll need. Balance! A roadie plops his butt on the saddle and pedals. Leans a bit in the turns and that's about it.
For mountain biking, you need to learn body english. You need to learn to move around the bike shifting your weight to make the bike do what you want it to do. When climbing, stay seated, bend forward at your hips, slide to the tip of your saddle, tuck your eblows. IOW, shift your body weight forward.
When descending, keep your body weight back, keep your arms and knees flexed, you use more front brake for controlled braking.
When going through turns, keep your outside pedal in the 6 o'clock position and push down on it. It'll drive your knobbies into the dirt for better traction. Depending on the terrain, will dictate whether your body is neutral or forward. Or shifting from front to back. Front as you enter the turn for traction, then shifting towards the back as you exit.
Regardless of where, keep you eyes focused on the trail at least 10' in front of you, not 2' in front of your tire.
Use your arms and legs as suspension.
Don't hold the bars with a death grip. Keep your hands loose.
Prepare to fall, Hope you don't. (Wear protection, helmet, gloves...etc.)
Know you will fall!
You guys lose focus on what's important. RIDING!
You are so concerned about how good this fork is, these brakes...etc. Guess what? It don't matter. As long as it works, it'll get you riding on the trails and it'll put a smile on your face.
Now, skills you'll need. Balance! A roadie plops his butt on the saddle and pedals. Leans a bit in the turns and that's about it.
For mountain biking, you need to learn body english. You need to learn to move around the bike shifting your weight to make the bike do what you want it to do. When climbing, stay seated, bend forward at your hips, slide to the tip of your saddle, tuck your eblows. IOW, shift your body weight forward.
When descending, keep your body weight back, keep your arms and knees flexed, you use more front brake for controlled braking.
When going through turns, keep your outside pedal in the 6 o'clock position and push down on it. It'll drive your knobbies into the dirt for better traction. Depending on the terrain, will dictate whether your body is neutral or forward. Or shifting from front to back. Front as you enter the turn for traction, then shifting towards the back as you exit.
Regardless of where, keep you eyes focused on the trail at least 10' in front of you, not 2' in front of your tire.
Use your arms and legs as suspension.
Don't hold the bars with a death grip. Keep your hands loose.
Prepare to fall, Hope you don't. (Wear protection, helmet, gloves...etc.)
Know you will fall!
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"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
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i am just promoting getting a bike bike that actually fits .i don't believe it is always the best idea to save on the wrong end ,and i think many people would be better off,will have more fun riding and be on the safer side if they ether just drop a little more or save for a month or too.avising someone over 200 pouds in buying a a bike with that rst fork is just simply bad advise no matter how you put it.
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Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
O.k., enough about the bike. It'll work just fine to get you going! Seriously, the dude's not going to drop off a loading dock his first week out.
You guys lose focus on what's important. RIDING!
You are so concerned about how good this fork is, these brakes...etc. Guess what? It don't matter. As long as it works, it'll get you riding on the trails and it'll put a smile on your face.
Now, skills you'll need. Balance! A roadie plops his butt on the saddle and pedals. Leans a bit in the turns and that's about it.
For mountain biking, you need to learn body english. You need to learn to move around the bike shifting your weight to make the bike do what you want it to do. When climbing, stay seated, bend forward at your hips, slide to the tip of your saddle, tuck your eblows. IOW, shift your body weight forward.
When descending, keep your body weight back, keep your arms and knees flexed, you use more front brake for controlled braking.
When going through turns, keep your outside pedal in the 6 o'clock position and push down on it. It'll drive your knobbies into the dirt for better traction. Depending on the terrain, will dictate whether your body is neutral or forward. Or shifting from front to back. Front as you enter the turn for traction, then shifting towards the back as you exit.
Regardless of where, keep you eyes focused on the trail at least 10' in front of you, not 2' in front of your tire.
Use your arms and legs as suspension.
Don't hold the bars with a death grip. Keep your hands loose.
Prepare to fall, Hope you don't. (Wear protection, helmet, gloves...etc.)
Know you will fall!
You guys lose focus on what's important. RIDING!
You are so concerned about how good this fork is, these brakes...etc. Guess what? It don't matter. As long as it works, it'll get you riding on the trails and it'll put a smile on your face.
Now, skills you'll need. Balance! A roadie plops his butt on the saddle and pedals. Leans a bit in the turns and that's about it.
For mountain biking, you need to learn body english. You need to learn to move around the bike shifting your weight to make the bike do what you want it to do. When climbing, stay seated, bend forward at your hips, slide to the tip of your saddle, tuck your eblows. IOW, shift your body weight forward.
When descending, keep your body weight back, keep your arms and knees flexed, you use more front brake for controlled braking.
When going through turns, keep your outside pedal in the 6 o'clock position and push down on it. It'll drive your knobbies into the dirt for better traction. Depending on the terrain, will dictate whether your body is neutral or forward. Or shifting from front to back. Front as you enter the turn for traction, then shifting towards the back as you exit.
Regardless of where, keep you eyes focused on the trail at least 10' in front of you, not 2' in front of your tire.
Use your arms and legs as suspension.
Don't hold the bars with a death grip. Keep your hands loose.
Prepare to fall, Hope you don't. (Wear protection, helmet, gloves...etc.)
Know you will fall!
#22
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Originally Posted by StalkerZERO
Sometimes when city riding when going over bumps or whatever I seem to be getting off the seat. But that would put impact weight on the pedals. How can I avoid this? And what am I doing wrong?
Last edited by jeff williams; 05-16-05 at 09:39 PM.
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
I've seen them for the other brands I can't remember if there is one for the RST if there IS it will be cheaper than a new fork and will buy you some time before you really would want to upgrade due to performance desires. As for the question that would be the correct answer.
Can you confirm this raiyn? Its the RST gila t5. :|
This sucks.
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I run the same fork and weigh about 230 It doesnt bottom out a lot at all. Given some of the trails I ride I'd say there must be different springs around if yours is bottoming out a lot. In fact I thought my T5 was really stiff when I got it and was beginning to wonder if it would ever free up.