need more shock absorbtion
#1
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need more shock absorbtion
Hi,
I have a specialized hardrock sport (26" wheels, with no suspension) that I enjoy riding, but need to make some changes to it. When riding, I get bounced around a lot, which is ok for the time, but the next day my back and arms/shoulders hurt. Is there a way I can upgrade this bike without spending a ton of money to make it absorb the shock better? I'm running 35psi front and rear, and have a suspension seatpost. Thanks!
Dave
I have a specialized hardrock sport (26" wheels, with no suspension) that I enjoy riding, but need to make some changes to it. When riding, I get bounced around a lot, which is ok for the time, but the next day my back and arms/shoulders hurt. Is there a way I can upgrade this bike without spending a ton of money to make it absorb the shock better? I'm running 35psi front and rear, and have a suspension seatpost. Thanks!
Dave
Last edited by bonsai171; 11-30-16 at 09:50 PM.
#2
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Add a suspension fork and lower your tire pressure (the tire pressure will depend a little on your weight).
#3
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Lower tire pressure? Wider tires help too.
How much do you weigh? Start lowering pressure in 3 psi increments until you get pinch flats or it feels too sluggish.
I'm 160lbs and use 18f/23r psi on 26x2.35 tires.
How much do you weigh? Start lowering pressure in 3 psi increments until you get pinch flats or it feels too sluggish.
I'm 160lbs and use 18f/23r psi on 26x2.35 tires.
#4
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Thread Starter
I weigh about 160. So maybe my pressure is too high? Can a front suspension be added? The current fork is threaded. Also, would it make sense to upgrade a 26" bike to suspension as far as cost, since most bikes are 27.5 and 29ers now? Thanks,
Dave
Dave
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A new bike is always great, meaning do not spend too much if you are leaning that direction. But, you should be able to get a fork that will work for $200-300 that would make a noticable difference.
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At 160 you could try 28-30 psi, and as long as you do not get pinch flats all should be good.
A new bike is always great, meaning do not spend too much if you are leaning that direction. But, you should be able to get a fork that will work for $200-300 that would make a noticable difference.
A new bike is always great, meaning do not spend too much if you are leaning that direction. But, you should be able to get a fork that will work for $200-300 that would make a noticable difference.
I don't think upgrading a lower end bike from the 90's is worth the effort. I'd start with lowering the pressure to something around 30psi. If that doesn't work, maybe it is time to buy a new bike.
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The OP said their bike has a threaded headset, I'd venture a guess it is a 1". That will limit the selection of forks available. New it will be mostly low end, no-damping. Used it will be early 90s stuff -not much better.
I don't think upgrading a lower end bike from the 90's is worth the effort. I'd start with lowering the pressure to something around 30psi. If that doesn't work, maybe it is time to buy a new bike.
I don't think upgrading a lower end bike from the 90's is worth the effort. I'd start with lowering the pressure to something around 30psi. If that doesn't work, maybe it is time to buy a new bike.
#8
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Thread Starter
tire pressure
The OP said their bike has a threaded headset, I'd venture a guess it is a 1". That will limit the selection of forks available. New it will be mostly low end, no-damping. Used it will be early 90s stuff -not much better.
I don't think upgrading a lower end bike from the 90's is worth the effort. I'd start with lowering the pressure to something around 30psi. If that doesn't work, maybe it is time to buy a new bike.
I don't think upgrading a lower end bike from the 90's is worth the effort. I'd start with lowering the pressure to something around 30psi. If that doesn't work, maybe it is time to buy a new bike.
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Good forks have hydraulic damping systems. Old forks used elastomer stacks. Cheap forks have no damping at all, just a spring.
#10
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In general, upgrading a bike of that era is not a great option. Other than maybe changing tires or other low cost options.
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I don't think the shocks of a size that lower tire pressure might absorb are causing your back and am pain.
You didn't say whether you're riding on or off road, but either way the most effective shock absorber is your legs. Learn to lift out of the saddle and let the bike float over bumps under you. This is very effective on the road, where hard bumps are rare enough for it to be practical. Off road, there's too much going on, and this is reserved for the biggest of them, with the rest being taken up with a suspension.
However softer tires will help with the smaller vibrations of rough pavements, and possibly a shock seatpost might help with slightly bigger stuff. But no matter what you buy, you'll still need to use rider skill to handle the worst stuff.
You didn't say whether you're riding on or off road, but either way the most effective shock absorber is your legs. Learn to lift out of the saddle and let the bike float over bumps under you. This is very effective on the road, where hard bumps are rare enough for it to be practical. Off road, there's too much going on, and this is reserved for the biggest of them, with the rest being taken up with a suspension.
However softer tires will help with the smaller vibrations of rough pavements, and possibly a shock seatpost might help with slightly bigger stuff. But no matter what you buy, you'll still need to use rider skill to handle the worst stuff.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.