2 front end questions
 

I've recently got back into biking and have a Schwinn Boundary that i love. My concern is the front forks. How do I tell if they are shot? In the 2 months I've had the bike and rode it, the suspension has definitely gotten much more softer and nearly bottoms out on minor terrain or going off a curb. If they are shot, are their beginner level forks that aren't expensive?

Lastly, i see video's online with guys having much wide handle bars. What is the advantage to having a wider handle bar? Or a smaller stem?

A wider bar allows better handling, but how wide is personal. The shorter stem allows for the wider bar without changing your body position much.

A $200 MTB isn't really meant to be ridden anyway but flat roads. Actually at that price point you would have been better off with a rigid fork. Suntour or SR makes decent entry level forks but it will still cost more than what you paid for the Schwinn.

My suggestion, if you really enjoy the sport, save your pennies and get a better bike. And in the meanwhile, ride the Schwinn till the wheels come off....

Ohh im not going on trails lol. My 300lb body will not like me afterwards. Only offroad i'll be doing right now is when im racing my son in a park and dad wants to win so he cuts across the field lol.

Your suspension fork is basically just a spring, that doesn’t wear out. If it feels softer it’s probably just sliding easier than it did when new.

The wide handlebars are part of a whole different style of design with raked out steering, 120+ mm fork travel, a longer front triangle and dropper seat post. The idea is to get you off the seat and over the back wheel and the front can plow through and over the trail. Most bike-store mountain bikes are like this now but it hasn’t made it to the Walmart bikes yet.

Gotchya!

Crazy question, but do they make stiffer springs for these type of basic suspension forks? I really don't want to change them out as im not going racing off ramps, hard landings etc. But they are way to soft for my liking.

Do you need to add air, adjust the rebound/compression settings?

not on forks, they do have something like that for certain rear shocks on full suspension bikes.

Prooobably not. Unless the stanchion diameter and spring length are the same as some other fork with more options. Suntour XCM for instance have lots of versions

Define expensive. A beginner level fork will cost as much or more than what you paid for that whole bike.

I can deal with spending $200ish on a new much better fork even though the bike cost that much. The bike itself is great for me and what I plan on doing. I won't be flying down trails and launching off ramps/hills. The forks on this bike however are just way to soft. I was out with my son yesterday evening just riding around and having run. Taking advantage of the bigger bike and him being 6 i would go up curbs and the lawn but going off the curb, the forks bottomed out and i wasn't even going fast. It's tolerable when just riding around but anything more and im bottoming out.

Honestly, I would consider just replacing it with a rigid fork. Maybe get a fatter tire in the front for a tad more cush.

^this, but this can still run you over $100, unless you can do the work yourself

I was sent a link to a suntour one for roughly 100 bucks. I am capable of doing the work myself as long as I have all teh tools i need or can physically get to in a messed up garage. Only problem i could forsee is being to properly cut the stem to the correct length. There's enough how-to videos on youtube these days.

Unless it is an air fork (with a high max pressure) or a coil available with stiffer replacement springs, at 300lbs you may still be bottoming it out a lot.

can always test fit before cutting and see how much it compresses.

Sure, but if you go to return it, it will likely be apparent that the fork was installed. The crown race and QR (and possibly the stem) leave a mark. It will also be apparent looking at the brake mounts whether they have been used.

You will also need to get creative in preloading the headset bearings without using a star nut.... though I am sure there is a way.

I like challenges lol

Does the fork have "caps" at the top which can be removed, so you can access the inside of the stanchions? If they do, perhaps you could cut a piece of steel pipe, or a wooden dowel, approx. the same size as the coil springs, and put it over the springs, so when you put the caps back on, the springs will have more preload on them, making them stiffer. You might have to cut a few until you figure what length works best, but I think it would work. Another thought is maybe to put an elastomer in the stanchion, to introduce more preload--went looking, wasn't sure what I might find, but this looks interesting: http://faqload.com/faqs/bicycle-comp...ork-elastomers

You could make a cheap and easy do-it-yourself fork lock out, like this guy did:

You're unlikely to find aftermarket parts for cheap forks. This is one of those cases where a rigid fork is your best bet. Not only are they much cheaper but you'll gain efficiency and save weight. They'll also outlast any cheaper suspension fork and they're maintenance free.

Wider handlebars provide more leverage but handlebars are very much personal preference, hence the dizzying array of lengths and shapes made.

Talking about efficiency and weight on a bike like this under a 300 lb guy is dumb. Leave the fork alone or get a better one. He needs it.