Front Suspension Fork
 

As of now I been riding my Marin Rock Springs 2 for about 15 miles a day on general trail conditions. I am currently riding on a Rockshox Recon TK 100mm 29 inch fork. I really what to upgrade to something that is at least 120mm but don't know if is worth the money. Any options would be great.

Ok, well does it help if I said that my price point is anything under $500?

That's about a $300 fork, and it's not bad....Solo Air right?
Do you have the shock pump, and/or tried adjusting the rebound damper?
100mm travel is typical for a trail or crosscountry bike.
IMO it's not worth spending the extra $ for a new fork, and buyer beware when purchasing used forks.
Keep riding it and save for another bike.
Maybe a slightly larger and cushier front tire would help.

I'm having trouble uploading more pictures, but I manage to get this one through.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a548e897cc.jpg

No it doesn't use a shock pump, and yes I have adjusted the rebound all the way over to the picture of a rabbit. Also what tire should I get for front wheel?

Here are some more pictures; I hope it is helpful.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0de8cba6df.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b9fad1b56.jpg

“Rabbit” is the bounciest setting. Are you sure you’ve got it set up to your best advantage? It’s not a turd, just not fancy.

If you are going longer, you have to consider how the change will effect the bike’s handling. It used to be 20mm was the rule of thumb for the max increase in travel. The big question is how does the bike handle with 100mm?

Going to 120mm may have a slight impact, as you go longer the head angle just keeps getting shallower and the steering gets slower.

John

I wouldn't upgrade for an extra 20mm of travel. If I upgraded I would do it for a better fork even if it still was 100mm.

Have you measured if you're using all the travel the fork provides? Maybe you need a softer or stronger spring. That's way cheaper than a new fork.

You haven't said what you don't like about the current fork, or what you're trying to achieve with the new fork.

Speeding up the rebound makes shocks bouncy, like a pogo stick. Shocks will feel smoother if you slow down the rebound. You don't want to go so slow that it can't recover between hits.

Like someone else said, you can probably change out the coil, and sometimes you can get spacers to increase stiffness.

It just depends on what you're after.

As for tires, that depends on the terrain type and your riding style, but a fatter tire (if you have space) will improve traction and comfort, which sort of goes hand in hand with the fork. If you're not running tubeless yet, that's a consideration as well (assuming your rims are compatible).

Great advice!

What is it about the current setup that's not good?

There nothing about it that is bad just want to get more out of what I could get.

Any recommendations for a cushier front tire?

What ever is bigger that fits. Big fan of Maxxis. Running tubeless? Psi used? Fork set up correctly for your weight and riding style?

Take note that the fact that your bike has a straight headtube and your current front wheel has a QR makes your bike not upgradeable to most mid-end current forks. In fact, searching, I only found one 29", straight steerer, air sprung 120mm fork: https://takeahikeshop.com/products/m...gle%20Shopping. You can find a number of decent options in 100mm travel. Radically altering the travel of a bike in most cases is inadvisable.

Really your bike is not a great upgrade platform. Also in general, upgrading right off the bat is inadvisable as bike brands can buy parts much cheaper than you can. You should buy a bike of the general quality level you intend to ride.

Since when does a Recon not use a shock pump? Mine is set at 120psi cause I'm a fat clown, and my wife has hers at around 90psi 'cause she is normal person weight.

Having said that: Read the owners manual. When broken down for rebuild (every 50 hours use) you can swap around the internal spacers to select 80, 100, & 120mm of travel.

Good luck.

So basically you guys are saying it's not worth it.

Kind of, but that’s not all we’re saying. We want you to get the best out of what you have, too. That’s why we are asking what you think is lacking, and talking about changing springs, adjusting damping, all of the things that you can do within its limits. You can also do a rebuild, and even change the oil weight.

On my bike, which I use for light trail and commuting, I have a soft Nobby Nick in the front and a faster tire in the rear. My original WTB Ranger is wearing out, and it will likely be replaced with a hard Rocket Ron just so that the labels match. But every tire manufacturer has tires that are pretty much equivalent to these.

How do you know all this/ what does QR stand for?

I am a professional mechanic and looked at your bike. A qr is a quick release. Front hubs come in both qr and thru axle variants–mid to high end current production forks are nearly all thru axle

There is a coil spring Recon.

Yes

Ok. I learned something new here.
Thanks!
:thumb:

Thank you for reminder that online forums can be cordial. Have a great weekend!