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Need help on how I can make this drivetrain acceptable

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Need help on how I can make this drivetrain acceptable

Old 12-09-20, 03:40 PM
  #1  
Yibbage
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Need help on how I can make this drivetrain acceptable

Brief story- I was walking my dog and ran across a ďmountain bikeĒ a neighbor had out for bulk trash pick up. Being in pandemic times and itching for a project I decide to take the bike home. Turns out, unfortunately, that Dynacraft is the maker of the frame (Walmart bike). The frame seems to be sturdy and decent quality (guessing this), the rest not so much. So I decide to build me a cool mountain bike with it by upgrading/changing components. I have never done this before but Iím a sharp guy so whatís the big deal?

So I decide that I donít want the stock 3x6 18-speed setup but one of those cool looking 1x11 configurations Iíve been seeing and reading about (obviously not enough reading on my part).
I bought a drivetrain set that includes:
-SunRace 11 speed cassette 11-50T
-Box Two 11speed derailleur x-wide cage
-Box Two 11 speed twin shifter
-Box Two 11 speed chain
-the crank cog bought separate has 35 teeth

So I fiddled with the derailleur adjustments and hop on for a test ride. I knew to expect some chain grinding due to the width of the cassette being driven by one crank cog. I also heard from a bike shop guy recently, as I was finishing this build, that the 1x11 setup was not really intended for a 26Ē bike. The chain stay is too short. Yep, itís a 26Ē bike.
So when attempting to be in one of the first four gears the chain immediately derails. Mid range gears are fine. And cannot get to that highest 50T gear (will try to further adjust the derailleur). What I now have is a six speed bike that is really slow.
I have questions. Can this even be made to work correctly? A longer crank axle? Some kind of chain that has more flex? So Iím a guy that didnít research the mechanics involved in making this change but Iím kinda enjoying the learning aspect of getting in there and doing it.
Any suggestions will be very helpful. Iím hoping to not replace too much of what Iíve added if at all possible. (I posted a pic of the bike in the Gallery yesterday but wasnít able to add it to this post due to being new to the site).

Last edited by Yibbage; 12-09-20 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 12-09-20, 03:56 PM
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pic assist.

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Old 12-09-20, 04:00 PM
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The chain will become more flexible as it breaks in, but it still might not work due to the short chainstays. Is the chain too short for the big cogs?

A smaller cassette (11-42) might work.
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Old 12-09-20, 05:13 PM
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Yibbage
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Originally Posted by tyrion View Post
The chain will become more flexible as it breaks in, but it still might not work due to the short chainstays. Is the chain too short for the big cogs?

A smaller cassette (11-42) might work.
Great tip about checking the chain length. Iíll check it out. I imagine that is only going to be a factor on the large 50t cog not lower ones. And true, the chain would not be broken in at this point. Thanks
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Old 12-09-20, 11:17 PM
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Box has good instructions how to set up their RD and size the chain. If you follow them it should work. In high gear with the suspension topped out it should have just a little tension and set the indexing, in low gear you adjust clearance from the cassette to the jockey with the b-screw. If you choose to size the chain in the big bottom gear like old style, you also need to have the suspension compressed.

The front ring is a question mark. 35 is an oddball. Narrow wide rings have even number of teeth. If itís a single speed ring it needs to be for 3/32 chain. If I tís part of a double or triple you need to get rid of it, they are made for shifting and chains donít stay on without a derailleur or chain guide

Last edited by Darth Lefty; 12-09-20 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 12-10-20, 07:35 AM
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Wow! Just wow
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Old 12-10-20, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
Box has good instructions how to set up their RD and size the chain. If you follow them it should work. In high gear with the suspension topped out it should have just a little tension and set the indexing, in low gear you adjust clearance from the cassette to the jockey with the b-screw. If you choose to size the chain in the big bottom gear like old style, you also need to have the suspension compressed.

The front ring is a question mark. 35 is an oddball. Narrow wide rings have even number of teeth. If itís a single speed ring it needs to be for 3/32 chain. If I tís part of a double or triple you need to get rid of it, they are made for shifting and chains donít stay on without a derailleur or chain guide
I am asking this because I don't know, but why would the suspension movement matter on this bike? it looks like the crank is on rear suspension triangle so wouldn't it stay the same during movement?

One thing I do know the OP can probably ditch that bash guard its not gonna do much.
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Old 12-10-20, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by sloppy12 View Post
I am asking this because I don't know, but why would the suspension movement matter on this bike? it looks like the crank is on rear suspension triangle so wouldn't it stay the same during movement?

One thing I do know the OP can probably ditch that bash guard its not gonna do much.
You are right, I did not look at the frame too closely.

Another thing to consider is the chain line. If that crankset is from a single speed as appears, it may have a chain line further inboard than ideal for the cassette. Can be solved with a bottom bracket spindle the correct length.
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Old 12-10-20, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
Box has good instructions how to set up their RD and size the chain. If you follow them it should work. In high gear with the suspension topped out it should have just a little tension and set the indexing, in low gear you adjust clearance from the cassette to the jockey with the b-screw. If you choose to size the chain in the big bottom gear like old style, you also need to have the suspension compressed.

The front ring is a question mark. 35 is an oddball. Narrow wide rings have even number of teeth. If itís a single speed ring it needs to be for 3/32 chain. If I tís part of a double or triple you need to get rid of it, they are made for shifting and chains donít stay on without a derailleur or chain guide
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
You are right, I did not look at the frame too closely.

Another thing to consider is the chain line. If that crankset is from a single speed as appears, it may have a chain line further inboard than ideal for the cassette. Can be solved with a bottom bracket spindle the correct length.
Thanks for those insights. They give me a direction to investigate.
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Old 12-14-20, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DMC707 View Post
Wow! Just wow
No kidding!!! $350 worth of parts slapped on a $50 Walmart bike.

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Old 12-15-20, 12:53 PM
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Easily my favorite build i have seen lately. I wish you luck. I plan on getting the same drivetrain for my 26er.
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