el_chepo

I want to put 11-34 or 11-36 on an old 26 steel frame currently 3x6.
Whole drivetrain is for change. I want to make it as rigid as possible without putting too much money, hence the intentions for 1x9.
I'm new to biking, currently gaining basic riding strength. I want to try mountain biking this summer.
How much could I expect from this setup? What chainring should I put?
I don't care much about the fast gears, however I don't know how slow exactly would I need.

veganbikes

I have a 1x9 on my hybrid with a Shimano RD-M737 and a 9 speed XTR shifter and it works like a dream. It is 700c not 26" and was designed more for road and gravel. I highly recommend the RD-M737 it is a bombproof derailleur that works really well.

The chainring is very you dependent and certainly very terrain dependent. I am running a 38t (Race Face N/W) with an 11-32 at the back and I might end up going to a 11-34 at some point but I kind of like the challenge of that bike. If you are a new rider you might look at your common triple crank and see what that middle gear is because most folks on a triple who maybe aren't as experienced will spend a lot of time on that middle gear so it could be just the ticket to start with or if you are climbing more maybe try a chainring 2 teeth smaller than what you are using but look at your current riding and see what gears you spend more time in and optimize for that.

bikemig 

If your goal is to have the low gears that you need plus not spend much money, there is a lot to be said for staying with 3 x 6 and replacing parts as needed.

el_chepo

Middle ring is 34. I intend to put a narrow-wide 30, I'm wondering whether I'll need an even smaller one.
24/34/42 front, 14-16-18-21-25-28 rear
I gained some strength, on roads I'm not using the slowest gears anymore and I live on top of a hill. But I have almost no experience on trails.
First times I tried climbing in the woods I couldn't keep balance on slowest gears, that's why I'm doubting too slow gears.
I was looking at current Shimano Alivio, there are also slightly more expensive M662 and M670.
The 3x6 was in working order when I got the bike. I trashed it within weeks. I am way more careful now, but I don't think the 3x6 is reliable and worth keeping.

sloppy12

Microshift advent or advent x. Get a narrow wide 34T for the front the advent has a max of 11-46T the advent x is 11-48..

katsup

You will probably need new wheels since you likely have a 6 speed freewheel and you'd be going to a cassette. The rear spacing on your bike may also be 130mm which limits your options since a lot of 8sp+ wheels are 135mm.

Spreading the dropouts to fit 135mm is an option.

Trakhak

Agree with Miguel. Yes, you can spend a lot of money and end up with fewer gears with big gaps between them to get the currently fashionable single-chainring look. Or you can take the el cheapo route and run what you've got, which is far move versatile setup.

bikemig 

Maybe it's time to think of a new bike? I like old mountain bikes a lot (and still ride a 1989 3 x 6 Stumpjumper Comp which I use as a commuter ) but the technology has moved on. If you want to get serious about going off road, that may be a more cost effective solution in the long term.

bboy314

Second vote here for Microshift Advent. Cassette will come with 42 or 46 low gear, I’d pair it with a 32 or 34 narrow/wide chainring personally. Wolf Tooth or Raceface chainrings are great if your current crank has a 110 or 104 bcd. You will need a cassette wheel if you currently have a freewheel.

Kapusta

This^^^^

el_chepo

I bought a Shimano M4050 rearhub and left the wheel for assembling at the bike shop.
I bought Shimano Alivio RD, shifter and 11-36 cassette. Nobody here (Bulgaria) sells Microshift components and I don't want to feed Jeffrey Bezos any more.
Are 1x drivetrains really only fashion trend? I know people that claim they are more durable and way more reliable than FDs. Maybe only clutched derailleurs, but still.
New bike - YES!!!!!!!! If I don't kill myself with this one I'll definitely buy at least one. I want to gain some experience first as right now I honestly don't know what kind of bike I want or need and bikes are really expensive here. That is bike prices are normal, salaries are low.

bboy314

Agreed that Bezos has enough $$ already!!

I really appreciate 1x for trail riding, for the simplicity of only having one shifter to use. The trails where I live are constant short and steep elevation changes with no flats or long climbs or descents and I think 1x is great for this.

c_m_shooter

I use 11-34 with a 32 front on my Fatbike. You will be fine. Don't fall for the hype about the range needed.

Digger Goreman

Due to changing parts that can change chain lines, and labor, going 1x can cost you a bit more money than you may want to spend... or not. Prioritize how much climb and downhill speed you wish. Which is more important? Then match your chainring to cassette choices to get what you want. Because my mtb is almost exclusively a commuter bike, and I value climbing over speed (slightly), I run a 40/11-50 setup with basic Altus RD + goatlink.

el_chepo

How is 32/34 for climbing steep trails? What size are your wheels?
imgur.com/a/8MnSjRS
40/50 on a 29 inch wheel should be the same effort as 32/36 on mine (26 inch). On 27.5 respectively 30/36. Is that really enough for trails?
On roads even the steepest here I'm very much OK with 3rd lowest gear and rarely use the second (24/21 and 24/25) and about never the lowest 24/28.

scubaman

Assuming that you're using your current crank, and that you want to mount your 1x chainring in what was originally the position of the middle chainring (for chain line), then you may not be able to fit smaller than, say, 34.

I rode an MTB with 32 front by 11-36 rear and was mostly OK on trails; now I have an MTB with 32 front and 10-51 rear and am more OK. I think your plan to get some experience with this current bike makes sense, so I recommend you get the easiest gear you can reasonably fit on that bike (chain ring + rear cog) and see what you're able to ride with it.

Please male sure your brakes are well-adjusted, and you have decent pads etc.

Kapusta

I have run a HT with a 32/34 low gear. Expect to stand and mash on steep trail sections. I was a pretty strong rider at the time and was riding single-speed as well, so I was used to it.

Consider that for most 9sp 26ers, a 34t cog with a 22-24t ring was standard for a low gear.

What I found was that when I was fresh, for short bursts I could climb anything with the 32/34 low that I could with a 22/34 low gear. The difference is that I could not do it as long. With a taller gear on a steep slope I was either out of the saddle and going 100% or I was walking.

It really just comes down to how fit you are, how hard you want to push yourself, and what kind of terrain you are riding.

I see someone mention they are fine with 32/34 on a fat bike. I am still a reasonably strong rider, and that would kill me where/what I ride.

el_chepo

It's done!
i.imgur.com/Wzw5ARd.jpg
I left the 34 middle ring from original setup.
Being fatter and more out of shape than last year I would have appreciated a lower gear.
Also long cage goes way too low on 26 inch wheels.
Otherwise feels good (to have a working bike).
Total cost about €140, hopefully good quality inner tubes, brake pads and grips included.

c_m_shooter

We used 11 to 32 cassettes and just a 32 tooth chainring before these modern narrow/wide came about. I could never use the small ring with a big cassette anyway. Getting rid of the big ring let us run a shorter chain for less noise. Leave the front derailer on, but set it in place with the end stops to use as a chainguide.