Dilemma! HELP
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Dilemma! HELP
Hello all!
Just had my trek 4300 stolen, even though it had TWO locks on it
The good news is, this means i have a good excuse to buy a new bike
I have decided to go for a specialized bike this time as i have had a few problems with the TREK.
Anyways! My budget restricts me to the Hardrock range, which suits my needs perfectly (mostly in and out of work, and a bit of mild off roading, forest tracks etc)
My dilemma is, why is their two hardrocks? the Sport and the RS?
Could someone please enlighten me on the differences, apart from the obvious aesthetic and suspension differences!
And some recommendations on which to go for would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Just had my trek 4300 stolen, even though it had TWO locks on it
The good news is, this means i have a good excuse to buy a new bike
I have decided to go for a specialized bike this time as i have had a few problems with the TREK.
Anyways! My budget restricts me to the Hardrock range, which suits my needs perfectly (mostly in and out of work, and a bit of mild off roading, forest tracks etc)
My dilemma is, why is their two hardrocks? the Sport and the RS?
Could someone please enlighten me on the differences, apart from the obvious aesthetic and suspension differences!
And some recommendations on which to go for would be much appreciated!
Thanks
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Originally Posted by ashall
Hello all!
Just had my trek 4300 stolen, even though it had TWO locks on it
The good news is, this means i have a good excuse to buy a new bike
I have decided to go for a specialized bike this time as i have had a few problems with the TREK.
Anyways! My budget restricts me to the Hardrock range, which suits my needs perfectly (mostly in and out of work, and a bit of mild off roading, forest tracks etc)
My dilemma is, why is their two hardrocks? the Sport and the RS?
Could someone please enlighten me on the differences, apart from the obvious aesthetic and suspension differences!
And some recommendations on which to go for would be much appreciated!
Thanks
Just had my trek 4300 stolen, even though it had TWO locks on it
The good news is, this means i have a good excuse to buy a new bike
I have decided to go for a specialized bike this time as i have had a few problems with the TREK.
Anyways! My budget restricts me to the Hardrock range, which suits my needs perfectly (mostly in and out of work, and a bit of mild off roading, forest tracks etc)
My dilemma is, why is their two hardrocks? the Sport and the RS?
Could someone please enlighten me on the differences, apart from the obvious aesthetic and suspension differences!
And some recommendations on which to go for would be much appreciated!
Thanks
To answer your question: I've never heard of the Hardrock RS. I was under the impression that Specialized offered at least 4 or 5 versions of the Hardrock: Pro Disc, Comp Disc, Sport and Sport Disc. They use to offer a Hardrock XC but I don't know if it's still available.
All of the models are basically the same w/ slightly different components. If you do a lot of riding in the mud, I would recommend getting a model with disc brakes, if not then save the $ and just get U-brakes.
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Sorry, that was ment to be the hardrock XC FS!
So, would i be right in thinking that the XC FS is the older version of the Sport?
My local bike shop told me that there was a 2005 of both the XC FS and the sport!
Thanks for your help
So, would i be right in thinking that the XC FS is the older version of the Sport?
My local bike shop told me that there was a 2005 of both the XC FS and the sport!
Thanks for your help
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I'd suggest visiting two or three first-rate dealers in your neighborhood, and checking out all of the bikes in your price range. It is getting late into summer, and you might find some good deals.
Sorry to hear your Trek was stolen. What were the specific models of locks you were using? What were the locks attached to? (A bike rack, a parking meter, a "Stop Sign"). If you can figure out exactly HOW your Trek got stolen, your new bike will be safer.
But, put in your budget enough money for a good lock...the OnGuard Bulldog is the cheapest good lock sold at most stores. The "basic" Kryptonite models are also in the $30 range, but lack the "dual" bolt design of the Bulldog.
Sorry to hear your Trek was stolen. What were the specific models of locks you were using? What were the locks attached to? (A bike rack, a parking meter, a "Stop Sign"). If you can figure out exactly HOW your Trek got stolen, your new bike will be safer.
But, put in your budget enough money for a good lock...the OnGuard Bulldog is the cheapest good lock sold at most stores. The "basic" Kryptonite models are also in the $30 range, but lack the "dual" bolt design of the Bulldog.
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Originally Posted by ashall
Sorry, that was ment to be the hardrock XC FS!
So, would i be right in thinking that the XC FS is the older version of the Sport?
My local bike shop told me that there was a 2005 of both the XC FS and the sport!
Thanks for your help
So, would i be right in thinking that the XC FS is the older version of the Sport?
My local bike shop told me that there was a 2005 of both the XC FS and the sport!
Thanks for your help
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Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
I'd suggest visiting two or three first-rate dealers in your neighborhood, and checking out all of the bikes in your price range. It is getting late into summer, and you might find some good deals.
Sorry to hear your Trek was stolen. What were the specific models of locks you were using? What were the locks attached to? (A bike rack, a parking meter, a "Stop Sign"). If you can figure out exactly HOW your Trek got stolen, your new bike will be safer.
But, put in your budget enough money for a good lock...the OnGuard Bulldog is the cheapest good lock sold at most stores. The "basic" Kryptonite models are also in the $30 range, but lack the "dual" bolt design of the Bulldog.
Sorry to hear your Trek was stolen. What were the specific models of locks you were using? What were the locks attached to? (A bike rack, a parking meter, a "Stop Sign"). If you can figure out exactly HOW your Trek got stolen, your new bike will be safer.
But, put in your budget enough money for a good lock...the OnGuard Bulldog is the cheapest good lock sold at most stores. The "basic" Kryptonite models are also in the $30 range, but lack the "dual" bolt design of the Bulldog.
had the bike frame locked to a bike rack with a double bolted Abus U shattle lock, quite expensive: 38euro, about $45, and the wheels were locked to the bike with a reasonably good chain lock.
The bike rack was in a shelter outside a train station which is safe up to about 8 in the evening, after which it empties out. I went back at 10, and it was gone
Asked the guy at the train station and he said loads of bikes have been reported stolen in the last few months, so i did the decent thing and put up some signs around the place warning about not leaving bikes there in the evenings.
Have no idea how the broke the U lock, but they can be quite easy to pick apparantly, i saw a short video on the internet a while back of some guys picking what locked like quite a decent bike lock with a pen! If i can find the clip i'll post the url!
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I doubt your bike was stolen using a BIC pen. That method requires practice and patience, neither of which are popular with crooks.
Inspect the rack itself, and see if it has any defects. Many racks have defects that are obvious upon close inspection. A rack in my neighborhood is held together with two bolts. Someone can release just one bolt, remove a bike, and replace the bolt. That way, the rack remains attractive to the next victim.
I want to lock to something that is stronger than my lock. Only the "hoop" shaped or "U" shaped racks made with two inch wide steel tubes, and with their end posts buried in concrete inspire confidence. Otherwise, I'd rather use a parking meter, or a electric light pole, or something else made out of beefy steel tubes, and set in concrete.
Inspect the rack itself, and see if it has any defects. Many racks have defects that are obvious upon close inspection. A rack in my neighborhood is held together with two bolts. Someone can release just one bolt, remove a bike, and replace the bolt. That way, the rack remains attractive to the next victim.
I want to lock to something that is stronger than my lock. Only the "hoop" shaped or "U" shaped racks made with two inch wide steel tubes, and with their end posts buried in concrete inspire confidence. Otherwise, I'd rather use a parking meter, or a electric light pole, or something else made out of beefy steel tubes, and set in concrete.
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Originally Posted by ashall
If i can find the clip i'll post the url!
Despite Alan's claims to the contrary you can open a cylindrical lock pretty quickly. I've done it.
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Picking a cylindrical lock is CAKE. I tried it on my Masterlock U-Lock and it came apart after just a few tries with a normal ballpoint pen. I am beginning the process to get a new lock using Masterlock's free upgrade policy due to this problem.